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A perfect cure every time

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
you should edit in the basic process into the first post.

I thought it was already there. Have a close look. If something is missing, I'll be glad to add it. Just let me know what you'd like to see.

Simon
 
You know what the R is RH stands for right..?....So at what temps is this RH at because at 70 degrees theres way more water in the air at 50% RH then 50%RH at 60 degrees
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
Simon, I'd love to read about your pruning methods with the detail and scrutiny you put into your posts! Pruning is something I've really struggled with. Due to state laws, I'm only allowed to have a certain # of plants so I have to grow bigger plants, which seem to need to be pruned very aggressively to avoid lots of popcorn.

I could do it, but it would take time. ATM, I'm running 11 (yes, eleven) unfamiliar strains and their associated phenos. In about a month, I can start a clone, show how it's trained and pruned, and flower it a couple of weeks later. Then, take pics of the plant every ~2 weeks until harvest. We could also discuss the feeding schedule and the ferts with the idea of keeping everything as simple and foolproof as possible. Is this something that would interest folks?

Simon
 

Slimm

Member
I could do it, but it would take time. ATM, I'm running 11 (yes, eleven) unfamiliar strains and their associated phenos. In about a month, I can start a clone, show how it's trained and pruned, and flower it a couple of weeks later. Then, take pics of the plant every ~2 weeks until harvest. We could also discuss the feeding schedule and the ferts with the idea of keeping everything as simple and foolproof as possible. Is this something that would interest folks?

Simon

Sounds great.
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
I've given this some thought and I think I found a way to cut some time. A few days ago, I flowered an Ice clone. Today, I'll start rooting another Ice clone that can be used to demonstrate the training and pruning. The clone should take ~2 weeks to root another 2 weeks before it can be LST'd. I'll take pics of both plants along the way. By the time the second plant will be ready to flower, the first one will be on its way to finishing.

Simon
 

gabjaz

Member
Hi Simon,

I have been using one of the Cailber III's for my first cure. It works great, but I think I'm doing something wrong with the cure. My RH is 56% in a couple of jars after 2 weeks curing.

I have been burping the jars everyday for 15 minutes. Should I stop burping the jars? I read that you can put something in the jar to rehydrate, is that a good idea. Also, I have several different jars from my 3 plants that were harvested at different times. They all smell different. What kind of smell should I worry about? I don't see anything that looks like mold. I don't think my RH has been too high to cause mold, but a couple of jars kind of stink and a couple have a really mild smell.

Also, does it matter that my jars are only half filled?

Thanks, Gabs
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
Hi Simon,

I have been using one of the Cailber III's for my first cure. It works great, but I think I'm doing something wrong with the cure. My RH is 56% in a couple of jars after 2 weeks curing.

I have been burping the jars everyday for 15 minutes. Should I stop burping the jars? I read that you can put something in the jar to rehydrate, is that a good idea. Also, I have several different jars from my 3 plants that were harvested at different times. They all smell different. What kind of smell should I worry about? I don't see anything that looks like mold. I don't think my RH has been too high to cause mold, but a couple of jars kind of stink and a couple have a really mild smell.

Also, does it matter that my jars are only half filled?

Thanks, Gabs

Hi, Gabs. Half-filled is fine. I'd suggest not burping the jars until it's necessary, like when the RH is above the curing plateau. At this point, I'd jar the product and not open the lids, as it may rehydrate a bit on its own. As for analog hygrometers, I haven't had very good luck and I don't recommend them as a result.

On a personal note, last thing I want is for someone to fuckup his harvest based on my advice. As such, I only refer folks to methodology that I think is relatively foolproof. As my own experiences with analog hygrometers have not been positive, I don't feel like I can risk a recommendation or even say something as non-committal as, "try it."

Simon
 

gabjaz

Member
My hygrometer is digital. I think it's just like the one you posted on this forum. Also, I did three different cannings. On a couple of jars I left the long stem intact using the 1/2 gallon mason jars and on a couple other jars I clipped the stems close to the buds. Should I have left some of the stems on all my buds? I read somewhere that the stems add humidity for curing. Is there a right way of trimming the stem before canning?

Thank you so much for your help as I am a total newbie and really don't know what the heck I'm doing...

Peace, Gabs
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
My hygrometer is digital. I think it's just like the one you posted on this forum. Also, I did three different cannings. On a couple of jars I left the long stem intact using the 1/2 gallon mason jars and on a couple other jars I clipped the stems close to the buds. Should I have left some of the stems on all my buds? I read somewhere that the stems add humidity for curing. Is there a right way of trimming the stem before canning?

Thank you so much for your help as I am a total newbie and really don't know what the heck I'm doing...

Peace, Gabs

Gabs, I understand. We were all new at one point or another. Hell, when I started out, I grew outdoors for a few years. When I moved inside and started researching room design, cabinet growing wasn't as well-optimized as it is now. Everything I knew on a technical level pointed to a 600HPS working well in a medium/large Mills Pride C22 wardrobe. Folks told me, "OH NO, Simon, those plants will burn alive, you have too many lumens per square foot, you can never cool that light." Then, I wanted to use darkroom louvers as light traps/intakes and heard, "You must be crazy. No one uses those. Just out in PVC pipe like the rest of us." Well, the rest is history. The box ran at 1-2F above ambient and we pulled unbelievable quantities of bud from the small space. I don't use the C22s as primary rooms anymore, but I digress....

Believe it or not, there's a point buried in the text. Even though we all have to rely on others for guidance, sometime the individual can gauge his constraints and offer a solution best for his own needs. I encourage you, as a new grower, to read as much as you can and try to understand the process. Then, you'll know almost intuitively how things should be.

To answer your questions, I'd suggest leaving the main colas whole. I like to leave a stem on the smaller buds and sometimes leave a part of the main stem intact, if curing a series of closely packed flowers. You're absolutely correct in thinking that larger stems will help to retain more moisture, giving one a bigger margin of error. We can always dry the product a bit longer, but we can never re-cure dehydrated flowers.

Simon
 

67gto

New member
I got my Caliber III a couple days ago and did the salt test on it twice, it displayed 73% each time, it should of said 75%. Think i can just add 2% to whatever it reads and call it good? Thanks.
 

gabjaz

Member
Hi Simon, Thanks for the link. One question, my jars are in the cure zone 60~65% RH. Should I open them to give them fresh air or leave them alone?

Peace, Gabs
 
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