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400 watt club...

Che

Active member
Veteran
I always recommend that you direct a fan at your ballasts, it makes a huge difference. Recently a friend and I found 12" fans for under $4 at a grocery store.. bought a few and aimed 1 at his 400w ballast. Now it is not only cool to the touch, but runs a bit more quietly as well. :)
 
400 Hortilux Super HPS in grow tent, 3 part advanced nuts (micro,grow,bloom), Big Bud, propogator root juice, and later stage switched to sunmasters bud blaster. Heres WW at day 43, probably 2 weeks left.
 

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hashit

Active member
i have a question, can i use a 400w mh for seedlings? how high could i keep it above them without burning them? also prevent stretching


I use a 400w MH for my seedling...I have the light about 15 inches from the top....then drop it down to around 10 inches or so after a couple of weeks. I have a cooltube setup for temps isnt much of a problem.
 

bkt808

New member
i have a question, can i use a 400w mh for seedlings? how high could i keep it above them without burning them? also prevent stretching
 

nzl

Member
heres my 400w 100% organic

heres my 400w 100% organic

400w white widow i think, but i call it my white dragon :nanana:
 

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Yet another 400 member stopping by!
Duppy, my man, you've got to replace that bulb stat! I'm not going to quote numbers as you can find the charts and numbers in many places but the actual lumen output of your bulb, the energy the plants use, will be pretty much gone at this point. I didn't believe this years ago and did some comparison grows side by side with old bulbs and new bulbs and the difference is staggering. Replace it every 6 months at least, I do mine every 3-4 now.
As far at which bulb, go with the cheap one. The expensive ones are more full spectrum which help a bit but not as much in my opinion. Cheap hps are all the same, they are simply hps instead of wider spectrum bulbs. The 400w pure sodium in my opinion is the best bulb there is, I like it better than 1000w halide or sodium because I notice a large resin increase with the deep red spectrum. Granted, I run 2 400's (sorry guys, can I still be in the 400w club?) and I have a 400w halide that my plants are under for the first 4 weeks of flower and then they move over to the 400w sodium for the last 4 weeks. Perfect combo. I use cheap ass bulbs and with this setup I am now pulling 8-10 oz a month. When the plants move from the halide to the sodium, the spot under the halide gets filled with the ones I have been vegging under fluoros in the cab above. Once a month, half the room comes down and gets replaced. With some minor tweaks in my feeding schedule, I should hit about 12 which works out to 1.5 lb every 8 weeks off of 2 400w with cheap bulbs




do yer plants stretch any through this process?
 
I personally don't start training to the screen until after I turn her over to 12/12, but I get uber stretch in hydro. You will want to fill out the far corners. In general you are looking for no more than 8-10 bud sites growing up from the screen per square foot. More will yield more smaller buds. I kinda prefer to wittle it down to 6 or so per square foot - per plant at one plant per square foot. One thing to keep in mind with scrog is that you do want to save some stretch for the end - it's kinda like you have to train and train and then when there is still a bit more stretch you stop training and let it grow up through the screen so you have a bunch of 6 inch or so shoots that each turn into 8 inch colas - like the ones I posted above.

Once I fill up the screen and have selected my branches that will be allowed to grow up through the screen and have them situated I follow the big fat j rule of scrog trimming which is "if it's shading a bud site, it must go", this means all thos fan leaves that one mini cola is shooting out that are shading another bud site must come off to bring light to the lower bud sites.

branches that have not reached the screen by the time flower is in full effect (3 weeks) should be removed and can be can be used for clones. Leaves that are not shading a bud site are allowed to stay.

Also keep in mind the location of your lamp and any sweet spots - these will need to be kept shorter or else buds will light/heat burn. Training your screen such that you achieve a stadium or half-pipe effect centered around your bulb I have found to be the most productive method. This way you have the buds furthest from the lamp on the tallest branches so they still get good light and the buds directly under the bulb on the shortest branches so that they don't get burnt.

hope that helps.

-suga
good info.
 
Northern Lights from nirvana. Grown under 400w high output (GIB) in 0.75 sq.m home made grow cab. I grow in a very cold attic(at least in the winter) with temps around 17 degrees celcius. It doesent seem to hurt the yield so much to grow in the cold.

Yield was just over 10 oz dry from 4 plants.









thats some good lookin northern lights.
 
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