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220w pl-l coco scrog cupboard

#1cheesebuds

Well-known member
Veteran
holy fucken moly bro she looks hightimes worthy.
wow wow wow. thouse calyx's look really big for micro buds.
 

b00m

~No Guts~ ~No Glory~
Mentor
Veteran
:grinch: Looks like it's gonna be a :xmasnut: Christmas all round :tree:
Here's a couple of shitty photos of whats getting the chop around 15 Dec bro:-
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Nice lollipop bud structure on this one with a strong fuel smell with a heavy fruity overtones :smokeit: hopefully it will reveg like her sistas and this one will become a mum :jump:
Your plant just keeps looking better everyday bruz you have got your game on, nice macros, got to get myself a tripod, my hands are too shaky for anything to close.
Happy Gardening Bro.
Peace.
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Damn B00M. Looking good.

I'm work as a gardener, and I use a lot of different predator mites on my job.
Predator bugs against all kinds of pest can be found :) But efficient as they are at protecting your plants, they are of little or no use in an already infested grow.
The right way to use them is by releasing an amount each 1-3 weeks depending on species.

If you got a serious problem with spider mites, you need to clean your growbox before your next grow. Spider mites will lay dormant, and can stay alive for more than 6 months without food even surviving freezing temperatures :(

I understand why people don't want to spray them with anything when flowering, and certainly this close to a good harvest. But you can find a lot of bio products and soaps that works really well. It should be used on mothers/vegging cab when cleaning your box between grow.

If you go for the predator mite protection in the future, there is ways of breeding them at home to save a lot of cash in the long run. :)
You won need to keep harmful bugs for feeding them, they can eat allot of different mites. I've feed my bugs with a species of mites living of wheat bran (typical choice at the breeder where you buy them in the first case)

I'd be happy to help you with the details if you are interested.


@Scrubs, keep them pictures cumin :D
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Hey, I stopped spraying neem this summer and my mothers now have mites.

I also have tons of wheat bran. Can you send me that info?
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Hi - I hope scubs wont mind me posting it here in case others may find it useful.

For starters. An at least 10x magnification Glass will be necessary.

The basic steps:
You want your wheat bran to get infested with flour mites. If you leave a handful outside on a humid spot, cover it to make sure it stays humid and dark, and they should appear in no time. You can smell them, a sweet foul smell.

Indoor I used a few dark closed boxes about 1 cubic feet, each with a cup of wheat bran made slightly moist (I used a simple spray bottle while turning it around). I then put a few grains of the flour mite infested wheat bran in each. (I advise using more than one container, should one get infected with mold, dry out or something).
Once in a while you change the wheat bran with fresh, leaving an infested teaspoon behind.
Maintaining the humidity is essential, now and then it needs a little water.

Now you order your predator mites. You need to make sure what predator mites you buy. Some species have an adult stage where they need pollen to survive and multiply, and it's easier to deal with the ones who can live of the same food source all the way.

You put the predator mites into their own boxes also containing some uninfested wheat bran.(again divide into a few, so it doesn't matter that much if one should go bad.)

When you feed the predator mites, make sure you don't overdo it! Only a few grains at first, and I ended up using about a teaspoon twice a week when I had a full predator population. If you feed them to much, more than they can wipe out in the matter of days, flour mites will multiply in the wheat bran, making you release an abundance of food together with predators making them useless!!

Put a teaspoon of wheat bran from the predator box in a coffee filter and hang it of the branches of your plants each week, and you will be protected :)
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
I don't mind at all Pedro, thanks for posting that. Do you know any tricks for phylloxera (root aphids)? I've sighted them in the tent and the plants are showing the signs :( All I can think of without serious chems is to submerge the pots, and gas the tent, probably on a regular basis. I got some ant poison to hopefully wipe the ants out seperately, they are a big part of the phylloxera's cycle (apparently the ants take the root aphid eggs and care for them, then bring them back when they're ready to destroy plants).

Boom, cuttin' sick bro! I never use a tripod meself despite having several. My camera has an auto-steady thing, it's pretty good. I find you get the best pics with no zoom, even if it has optical zoom. If you can rest the cam against the wall or cupboard or whatever, all the better too. I do any zooming manually, when I edit/crop the pic on computer. It just contributes to the shakiness if you're zoomed.

I should be done with some engagements shortly so I can get back to growin' 24/7 after today!

Cheese, yeah they're huge some of them!

Peace all. :smokeit:
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Sweeeet. Well phase one of operation phylloxera was bombing the shit out of the medium with Bio-bugs and that will obviously continue. Phase two started today, I found the hole in the wall where the ant trail was coming from and put borax there and they ate it up like a fat kid eats cake :D Very significant drop in numbers hours later but that may just be a time of day thing. Feeling positive though! Pics tonight most likely :cool:

Edit: this is some info on aphids (in general) and ants, from a link posted by Scay Beez. If you're only here for the nugz, skip over this :biglaugh: but it's hella interesting.

Relations with Ants

Honeydew is the reason that ants are associated with aphids. In fact many species of ants are so addicted to this sweet drink that they will protect the aphids from various predators and move them to new plants if the one they are on starts to wilt. Some ants even go as far to build small shelters over species that feed near the base of the plant and or to keeping root-aphids inside their own nests. Lasius fuliginosus workers carry newly hatched fundatrices from the base of oak trees where they overwinter as eggs to new growing leaves at the top of the tree as soon as they are hatched. The common meadow ant Lasius flavus has a particularly close relationship with the root aphids it uses and even collects their eggs in the autumn and early winter and stores them in its nests, then in spring the eggs are moved to suitable chambers so that plant roots are available for them as soon as they hatch. In effect these ants treat the aphids as well as they treat their own brood. The interaction between Aphids and ants has been going for a long time and some ants are almost dependant on aphids for food while some aphids such as Protrama spp. are obligate myrmecophiles, and do not excrete honey-dew unless stimulated to do so by ants. Species of aphids which have intimate associations with ants, particularly those that live in their nests are of necessity monoecious. The aphid Paracletus cimiciformis is practically only found in the nests of Tetramorium caespitum where it is fed and cared for by the ants despite the fact that it rarely if ever secretes honey-dew, it is in fact a parasite and gains most of its food from the ants who offer it nectar.

The number of ants associated with a given species of aphid and the number of aphid species associated with a given species of ant varies from place to place, up to 17 different aphid species have been found in Lasius niger nests. Sometimes different ant species which live in similar habitats will foster different aphid species, i.e. Lasius niger with Anoecia corni and Lasius flavus with Anoecia nemoralis. However aphid species that have evolved close relationships with ants may have broader environmental tolerances than their hosts hence, the aphid Forda formicaria is attended by Lasius spp. in the lowlands and by Formica spp. in the highlands. Ants gain much nutrition from their relationships with aphids and the honey-dew excreted by aphids such as Aulacorthrum sp. can in some cases be a complete ant food. Generally the amount of proteins and amino acids in excreted in honey-dew varies between species and plant. However because ant attendance stimulates aphids to feed at a rate 2-3 times their normal rate, and because they do not grow at 2-3 times their normal rate, it follows that the reduction of nutrients resulting from aphid digestion is greatly lessened. Also as adult ants do not need proteins but only sugars honey-dew is a perfect food for them. Ants are not always good guys though, like us with cows, if aphid numbers build up the ants quite happily kill a few off and feed them to their larvae.

The protection that ants give the aphids they attend is not always excellent and varies depending on the type of predator or parasite. Generally speaking the ants are better at dealing with Ladybird larvae and Anthocorid bugs than they are at dealing with Lacewing larvae and Hoverfly larvae. They not only remove the larvae, sometimes killing them but also remove the eggs of hoverflies and Ladybirds. Interestingly by herding aphids onto the tops of the plants ants render them more vulnerable to attack from some parasites. In one experiment in 1958 R.C. Banks found that attended aphids were 10X more likely to be parasitised than unattended ones.
I don't wanna flood my own thread with boring shit, but the Feeding Ecology section was equally as interesting, and I think I'm on the right track with the Bio-bugs aimed at root problems. These are the predators I need:

Chloropidae, Thaumatomyia spp. larvae, specialise on root aphids.
Phoridae, Phora spp. larvae, specialise on root aphids.
Haven't had a look for them yet but Scay says he couldn't find them online. :/
 
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b00m

~No Guts~ ~No Glory~
Mentor
Veteran
Hey superpedro and scrubz, thank you for the info, I think I'm going to have to stop my little perpetual micro for a while and bomb the shit outta my wardrobe :elf: normally I can keep on top of the little fuckers but they got a strong foothold when my back went AWOL.
Scrubz I remember those sorts of ants back in the day, I would use stuff called ANT_RID?? which is pretty much borax I think, anyways glad to see you are on top of 'em. ROOT APHIDS AND SPIDER MITES FUCKING SUCK.
Off topic patiently waiting for REZDOG to drop his latest and greatest genetics quite a stir is happening in the AAA thread with everyone guessing and waiting. Also Tom Hill's Haze is showing up some time soon also, this is what Tom says on his Haze :-
I am familiar with most all current Original Haze offerings. To be fair though, some I have not looked at very extensively. However, none have been able to move me near as much as this old Sam line via Posi. My selections have focused on high-quality resin production, and imo this line is the Haze resin-queen.
When I am requesting a clean-up on isle 9 due to my mind being split open, or am afraid to drive my car high on a decent sample (4 hours after smoking it) - all perspective is put in its proper place.
I'm almost afraid to release it, tehee, some of you will get so noided-out that you will shitcan your current IC accounts only to return a few weeks later under new handles after the Haze clears.
This plant is my holy grail, by far, nothing can touch it.


Sounds like the fucking bomb to me, can't wait :window:
Happy Gardening Bruz.
Peace.
:tree: :eggnog:
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Haha I read that in someone's signature, I think. Sounds pretty impressive. I've only smoked one certified haze and I actually hated it. It was the worst weed ever, but it wasn't grown well, so I'd give it another chance for sure. I hear and see too much about it. SSH looks pretty badass too. Blue Haze is a parent of Aussie Blue also. But yeah, if Tom made it, I wouldn't hesitate. My friend told me Haze is the worst for outdoors reveg in this area, so I always avoided it out of hand.

I never read those breeders forums much but I checked out Rez's and I gotta say - funny guy and some sweet strains.

Anyways, nuff blabberin' from me :D:yes:

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superpedro

Member
Veteran
Hey scrubs, Your plants are looking awesome.

Root aphids is completely new territory for me. Besides what I've read about infestations in wine fields, I haven't heard of any problems with them in my country.
The two worst pests in cannabis where I live is spider mites and thrips (thunderflies).
By breeding Amblyseius cucumeris, a predator mite, you can defend against both.
IMO If you have found a bio product that works, it can be produced at home. Who better to invent a cab to grow bacteria than an expert micro cab builder? :D
Besides finding out what to feed them, the rest is just about creating an ideal climate.
If you tell me all you info you can find about your product, and I'll try to think along with you. :)
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Hey Pedro thanks :) Well, I had a look and the current problem is that I can't find the needed predators for sale anywhere, so that's kind of the end of that laneway, lol. I've been looking up pyrethrum, that may help keep it controlled long enough. I'm happy to achieve only a reduction as long as they don't screw my yield.

Root aphids seem to cover this area, sadly. All my friends were infested with them too. None of us would even know if it hadn't been pointed out to me on IC, and I pointed it out to them. They don't even treat theirs and are quite happy with their yields around the lb mark per :xmastree: It's a very perplexing pest. I've probably had them on all my previous plants without knowing. I've always had ant problems so it would explain a lot.
 

#1cheesebuds

Well-known member
Veteran
Oh yah is right brotha man. Ok now Im left speachless.
sucks to have root mites. but I think ull yield great anyway.


bling bling bling bling bling bling bling bling.
well start the bidding at 5.50000$ for each bud. (big grin)(china eye). tee hee.

I bet U have a nice camera don't U?
I just got me an olympus E-600.

and hope u have a splendid christmas also dude.
also I cant wate to watch them lil plants grow up. looks like there getting big fast.

peace cb.
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Thanks Pedro for the mites stuff. Do you think the mites that live in my worm bins would work? I could do the initial trapping in there.
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Big up yo selves :xmasnut: Season's greetings to you too cheese. I used to think my camera was the shit, but now it's not all that. Has a lot of problems with contrast between dark and light. Terrible in low light. Flash is kinda crappy. But overall it was a great purchase and has withstood a lot of dust and resin :) I take a thousand pics to find the ones I post. I'm high as hell so I'll let the pics talk :eggnog: but I love the one lil budsicle at the back in this first pic...

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Sorry if anyone is on dialup but I'll probably start hosting on photobucket soon and the pics will be hi res, hopefully I can work out thumbnails :smokeit:
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Thanks man I made a huge dent in the numbers already. There were 2 ants earlier compared to hundreds. More are back just now, maybe 30 so I reapplied and they're eating it again.

Maryjohn, I saw you contribute in a borax thread. How long does it take to kill the nest? Coupla days?
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Scrub, I never actually confirmed a dead nest. But the ants show up less and less until they stop coming. Until the next nest! At my place the spcies visibly change, sometimes in form and sometimes in behavior.

Sometimes it is hard to get them to take the bait, like they are on a mission. Other times you can put a dollop out and watch their abdomens stretch as they feed.

To make a rainproof bait station just poke some holes in the lid of a spice jar. Throw in a bait soaked cotton ball and you are good.
 
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