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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

Bulénath

Member
Oahu Grown,
I was reading over the last few posts and noticed you are looking for a light trap for your intake.





These are 2" PVC 90 degree elbows making 180 degrees of PVC under each hole: one with two female ends, and one with a female and male end.
The female ends are better for glueing to the wood. Use some super glue then put some White Caulk around the connection to seal it off completely from any light. With only glue, the light will pass through making it useless.

For my 150w HPS cabinets I went with 1-1/2" PVC for better distribution of fresh air, and for a specific pot/floor layout. With the 1-1/2" PVC you need 4" of clearance. To make it completely light proof, the side-walls and the front should go down to the floor, unlike in my picture. That way, only the back of the cabinet's bottom 4" is exposed, which is almost agaisnt the your bedroom wall, and all the fresh air gets sucked under the back of the cabinet and gets dispersed evenly.

These are all pictures of my Veg cab. I use 2 or 3 (depending on how many plants at once) 19w 6500K cfl's. That four way bulb socket was like $1 at wal mart yeas back. You should be able to find those bulbs at Home De Pot or Longs (sometimes).

Shit, with only 38 watts per square foot I can grow out two mothers and a plastic container with 20+ clones

-or-

6-8 fully vegged plants for a month, in 4-5" square black pots. But when I do that many plants I like to use 3 x 19w CFLs.

Here is something that you should know (thank you Sugabear),
that optimal temperatures and humidity (over all conditions) during the first 2 weeks of a plants life will have much to do with the plants sex.

Here is why (and at the end you will be like oh duh)...

When a plant is in unfavorable conditions it will want to produce pollen (aka male plant semen) to fly away to find a better enviroment. When a plant is in near optimal conditions, it will have a tendecy to produce flowers, in hopes of catching some of that pollen, so that it will seed and drop it's seeds directly in the sweet spot. Though sometimes an established female with drop a few seeds without any noticeable male flowers, this is usually a plants natural defense to ensure the future of its genetics. So sometimes even with female clones, you may find one or two seeds.

Anyway, on with the main subject, Vegging plants like a more blue spectrum (5500-6500K), opposed to flowering plants which like the red spectrums(2500ish I think).

Well the problem is that HID lights like metal halides zap the humidity, and you really want 40-60% humidity for vegging seedlings. This is where the CFLs come into play. They provide a a wide range of spectrums, yet come in wattages low enough to keep humidity high. Shoot for 50% over all ambient Humidity for Veg, Flower, Drying, and Curing. That is about perfect.

Therefor, I also find that ventilation is more important for vegging seedlings, than it is for established fruiting plants to ensure you get a good male/female ratio.

In the pictures provided you will notice a Panasonic Whisperline Fan (70cfm model that is discontinued), that has been removed from its black metal box-casing with a 4" vent hole, and hooked directly to a rectangular vent.

Even though it is much quieter than with the black metal casing, I regret doing so becasue now it is:
A) without a light proof exhaust
B) unable to attach a carbon filter which would prolong the life of the fan by keeping the inner components clean.










A 70 CFM fan in about 2.5 square feet at most.... :muahaha:










 
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OahuGrown

Member
Yup Yup... both of the compusa's closed the town and the west side one.
I live somewhere in the west and i know exactly where that fish store is. weird huh?
I think i might call up the hydro store in kahala and ask them if they have 150 watt systems or if they could order some with their next shipment.
Im kinda on a budget and trying to still figure out what to buy so i wont go ahead and buy fans yet.
 

Bulénath

Member
I edited BOTH of the above posts like 100 times, and added a bunch of pictures, so make sure you didn't miss anything...

Oh I forgot to mention that I really like MDHydro.com (Maryland Hydro), and Brian (the owner) will ship to Hawaii via usps if you ask.

They have some good deals on 150's...


Just don't go for the vortex 172 with can9000 filter. It seems like an easy good option, and it really is, but the fucker is louder than Honolulu International Airport. It is really a mini jet engine...
I would still be using it, had I a basement to grow in....

...So then people say "just get a Solid State Speed Controller"...So I did...And when I cranked down teh fan, teh speed controller made this humming noise that canceled out the reduction in motor/rushing-air noise...
Now it could have been my particular item, but I don't think that is the case....
 
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Bulénath

Member
OahuGrown said:
This is my cabinet to be.
Give me suggestions.
The fan is 80 cfm.
150 watt hps

61452Diagram1.jpeg


Since your flower chamber is kinad small, I'd just go for the HTGSupply.com's Floralux Mini. Its size suits your chamber perfectly.

Use the 80cfm fan to cool the reflector, use the Panasonic Whisper Fan as your main exhaust...

Also, just remember that your hardest task it going to be light proofing the flower chamber from the veg chamber....

If at all possible, I suggest you try for seperate cabinets.
 

OahuGrown

Member
I think im still gonna use those light proof louvers to save the space. I looked on mdhydro and couldnt find and 150 watt hps systems. Do you have to call?

as for light proofing i will just build the whole cabinet and put a piece of wood in there and caulk the edges. Or they have this caulk like application that you would put in your bathroom around the tub that has and L shape with sticky stuff.

once again thanks for the incredibly helpful info. i will rep when i can
 
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Bulénath

Member
OahuGrown said:
Yup Yup... both of the compusa's closed the town and the west side one.
I live somewhere in the west and i know exactly where that fish store is. weird huh?
I think i might call up the hydro store in kahala and ask them if they have 150 watt systems or if they could order some with their next shipment.
Im kinda on a budget and trying to still figure out what to buy so i wont go ahead and buy fans yet.


Also, I really suggest that you buy your equipment before you start your cabinet construction. You can't always be sure, even with provided online specs, on how it will exactly fit. Sometimes a mismeasurement of 1/4" can screw the entire design up. If there is anythig I learned throughout building many cabinets, buy your equipment first!
 

Bulénath

Member
OahuGrown said:
I think im still gonna use those light proof louvers to save the space. I looked on mdhydro and couldnt find and 150 watt hps systems. Do you have to call?

as for light proofing i will just build the whole cabinet and put a piece of wood in there and caulk the edges. Or they have this caulk like application that you would put in your bathroom around the tub that has and L shape with sticky stuff.

once again thanks for the incredibly helpful info. i will rep when i can


Yeah I was looking at your design, and if you are going for the NGB style cabinet then you will have a very hard time using enough PVC without blocking the holes with pots...So I think it would be a good idea to go with dark louvers!

MDHydro.com has 150HPS full systems for about $110...It's on the very first page!
But look around, there are many good options. You might even want to go the cheapest route and buy one from Econolight(s).com, then just modify it to your liking. Also, yeah I would call them to place an Order...Brian will usually answer the phone hiself so you almost always speak to the owner...

Oh an no worries my friend, I am happy to help out any one of my neighbors.



Aloha!




EDIT:
For the NGB design, you will need two doors instead of one
That is one large door to cover the flower chamber itself, and one for the veg chamber and the attic. And even with that design, you still couldn't open the vegging door without exposing the attic, which has a direct-opening into the flower chamber....So you can only access the Veg chamber only when the flowering chamber is on...

And also, even if you use one door, there is no way on making sure that each chamber is perfectly sealed from the next, becasue you can't exactly crawl in there and shut the door!...
So there is much to think about...


Also, even with weather stripping, the stuff does eventually move around and change positions, creating light leaks that can be hard to notice with the NGB design.
The only way I can see the NGB design being really functionable is by building wooden stripping to create a perfect seal around each door...
 
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Bulénath

Member
growDaddy said:
chopped my crop yesterday. not too many pics cause too many hits.
harvested at day 60.
this is my harvest box. it sits inside a large home depot paper leaf bag. I have a metal plate attached to the inside top of the box. I use magnets glued to push pins with a rubber band to hold it better. I put the magnet to the metal. So all of these 'buds' are attached to the top of this box. 21 of them.
then 2 pics of the largest bud.











Nice!! Please inform us of the dry weight!!!
 

OahuGrown

Member
Oh now i see it...
I will call up kahala hydro shop and ask what their 150 watt hps stock is or see if they can order one for me.

I think im gonna put one louver in the middle wall and another in the mother wall so i only need one fan in the flowering chamber.

That was my other plan for the light proofing. Using gorilla glue to glue molding around the edges of ever board.

But it always falls back to how much shipping is. WHAT A BITCH!

The htg 150 watt would come out to about 120
the mini floralux 144
and the econolight 150 watt about 70

that
 
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Bulénath

Member
Yep, it surely is costly...

But c'mon now...I bet we will both agree to be "lucky" to find a Zip for less than $400 out here...
(Fuck in Tokyo it is $50 a gram!)

So for the price of two zips, you will make your money back within 2 months, and have free weed forever more!
I spent about $500-$600 for each of my 150HPS cabinets...

But now I harvest about 3 ounces a month :rasta:
 

Bulénath

Member
OahuGrown said:
Oh now i see it...
I will call up kahala hydro shop and ask what their 150 watt hps stock is or see if they can order one for me.

I think im gonna put one louver in the middle wall and another in the mother wall so i only need one fan in the flowering chamber.

That was my other plan for the light proofing. Using gorilla glue to glue molding around the edges of ever board.

But it always falls back to how much shipping is. WHAT A BITCH!

The htg 150 watt would come out to about 120
the mini floralux 144
and the econolight 150 watt about 70

that


You should know that Kahala hydro is rather over priced. But thier Pure Blend Pro is reasonable, infact cheaper than any place online w/shipping to Hawai'i. (But do look around for your self and report back if you find anyplace cheaper!)


Also, I hear that the dark louvers are not 100% light proof.
They can be good when used at the back of a cabinet, where it will be facing a wall so it is in relative darkness all the time. But for using it to seal one chamber from the next, that seems like quite a big risk to take, and my gut instinct tells me that it could be a costly mistake. For if it dosen't completely seal off the light from each chamber, your entire design and all the hard work and hard earned money you put into it will be wasted.

Maybe I don't understand what you mean, so take my reply as you will.


If you are still considering the NGB desing, I suggest going with the design PipeDream posted on the last, or second to the last page...And make sure your Dark louver is only inside of the vegetative chamber, perferably in the back... I hope you can find a dark louver that will fit within the diameter of the Veg Chamber, without over-streaching into the flower chamber..

Oh and I have been having a lot of trouble with almost every 15A+ timer that I bought here in this state... The only timer that has never failed on me, or refused to work with an HPS, is the Grasslin timer...The cheapest basic model works well, the one with the 15 minute sections that you press down.
 
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OahuGrown

Member
That so totally true but to have the money upfront right now is a little hard because i just bought a surfboard.
ok so the 85 cfm fan is not a computer fan but more like a cooling fan. and its pretty quiet.
For ventilation i could connect the 85 cfm fan to a hose and place it right above my lamp which would flow into the storage area with another fan blowing out with the carbon. Cause dropping that much money right now is to hard.

Ill tell you how the kahala hydroponics thing went.
Would you recommend germinating in jiffy peat pellets.
 
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Bulénath

Member
Why not go for an Econolight, and then buy a Bake-O-Round for a cool tube, then hook up some 4" aluminum ducting connecting the cool tube to the electrical/main exhaust room.

In order to have it placed so that the Sides of the bulb run paralell with the short ends of the cabinet, you will need a 90 degree bend in the aluminum ducting...I supppose in that case, it might just be easier, better, and more efficient to just connect it directly, and have the bulb's sides run perpendicular to the flower chambers short sides.

As for peat pellets...

Well I never germinated in peat pellets. Some people do though.
I have tried peat pots filled with my Veg-soil mix, but the peat pots tend to wick the moisture straight out of the soil, causing the soil to dry out too fast which raises the salt and PPM and EC levels, which then cause bad fluctuations, which then affect the plants ability to up-take water and nutrients, causing them to eventualy die...

Well, okay, maybe PPM and EC is not so important with seedlings in my Veg-soil mix, but it does become important when getting into flower, and using high-dose nutrients. That is something important you should know, so don't let your soil mix get too dry durning flower....

I guess the more important issue with dry soil when it comes to vegging plants and seedlings is not the PPM or EC, becasue I am growing with Verm/Perlite/Wormcastings. So in that case, dry soil poses more of a threat to the super fine hairs that decorate the very tips of the Rhizomes aka Roots.
It is these fine hairs that actually uptake the nutrients and moisture, which are only found on the tip of each Root!

I never used peat pellets though...

My favorite method is the old wet paper towel method.
Just make sure you wash your hands with antibacterial soap first and place the wet paper towel on a very clean plate.
Also wrinse your seeds under cool, fresh tap water to remove any fungus or bactera. You wana be super clean, almost Medical Aeseptic about it...

Seedlings need moisture and oxygen equally, so don't over do it...

However, I do suggest prior to putting them in a really damp paper towel, soak them for 12 hours in a cup of cool tap water. This is also a good way to see which seeds will be viable. Any seed that sinks after 24 hours of soaking will usually sprout. Floating ones after 24 hours are usualy non-viable. Do not soak for more than 24 hours. Sometimes after 12 hours the seeds begin to crack open! At that point, they wil begin to drown! So after 12-24 hours, put them in a damp paper towel, and put that paper towel on a plate, and put that plate in a very warm, dark, super clean place...Try not to let the seedlings get too cold...

Seeds come to life when one thing happens: Moisture penetrates the shell.
Soaking helps this moisture to enter through the shell, into the actual embryo where moisture will activate the wodnerful metabolic process known as life.

When the seedlings sprout a tail, usually within 48 hours after soaking, wait until the tail grows about 1/2", then carefully plant them no more than 1/2" deep into that Veg-Soil mix I just told you about on the last page...

Weather you plant the tail up or down is debateable...
Some say tail up, so the tail roots down and pulls the top up....
Some say tails down, like god intended...

I prefer tails down. Rarely do I have a weak seedling because of it...
 
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Bulénath

Member
Don't let all the moisture talk confuse you about how you apply the water.

I suggest you always water around the edges of the pot.

Why is that?

Roots automatically seek out moisture, and by watering around the edges you are encouraging root growth, which is directly proportionate to the size and well-being of your canopy! If you water at the base of each plant, the roots will not feel much need to strech out and seek new territory, thus compormising the size of your canpoy, and eventually the over-all harvest weight.
 

BL4ZE20

Member
Well guys it looks i've officially joined the 150w Hps CLUB!

150w mounted vertically



How the hot air is removed. This fan is badass by the way.





One of my NLXAk47 girls loving the orange light


Really excited about this grow haha.

BL4ZE ON!! :rasta:
 
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BL4ZE20

Member
The fan is a S&P TD-100 4inch fan. The Cfm rating on the website said the fan was 101/97. You can wire it to the high or low rating. However when i recieved the fan the box said the cfm was 110/103 but im not complaining if i got a couple extra cfm's.
 

Bulénath

Member
I thought it's a Solar & Palau fan!

So I take it the TD-100 has plastic blades and is relatively quiet?

The strange thing is that Solar and Palau co. do not list thier fan's sone or dBA rating! Which leves me thinking.."What the fuck..."



I am planning on buyign two of those, TD-150 models, each one to pull on 2 x 600's and carbon....They seem like a good option for a strong quiet fan with relatively short length.

Anything else you could share about the fan would be very helpful..The actual S&P thread here on ICM hasn't provided me with the answers I seek.

Oh an Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
 
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OahuGrown

Member
Ok so i decided to get either the panasonic fan or the S&P TD-100.
Since bluenath uses the panasonic and bl4ze20 use the td-100 what are the goods and bads about the fans.

I forgot to call the hydro place. I might just drive down tomorrow. Do you think they'll have a black Friday sale?

Happy Thanksgiving.
 

Bulénath

Member
The TD 100 is relatively compact. However, regardless that it has plastic blades, it is still an Inline Fan.
We can only speculate the actual dBA, for the company dosen't provide that info. But one thing is for certain, Inline fans in general tend to be too loud for our super small and stealth grows
On the S&P thread here at ICM, the creater compares the TD-200 to the Panasonic, and later retruns the Panasinc and keeps the S&P...But the TD-200 model is super high CFM is more suited for commerical ops...

Regardless, he didn't say what model Panasonic!!!! There are tons of different models, and many models are lumped into different Lines...So there are many, many differnet types of Panasonic Whisper Fans...

Anyway, inline fans are better for blowing through ducting, but you don't really need ducting when it comes to these small 150 grows. Ducting creates static pressure and reduces CFM, and can alter the sound (in a negative way) of the "wooosh" of air.

If you get the S&P, I suggest you build a box, then make a carbon tray-scrubber. Try not to get tempted into hooking up the S&P to a professional grade can filter, because they tend to create more static perssure than a custom built tray scrubber, and usually the 4"-ducting models like the Can 9000 are rather long and probably wont fit together inside of your cabiet.

If you are still considering the NGB design, with that small unitlity room with your fan & carbon, you will want the Panasonic.

If you are growing in you bed room, or if you need to be completely stealth, go with the Panasonic.

If you can alter your cabinet desgin, and grow where sound dosen't matter, then go for the TD-100.

Just try not to use any ducting at all. The best method would be to hook the exhaust up directly to the hole...

And just remmeber to always shoot for negative pressure, not positive pressure...I.e don't put the carbon filter over the exhaust, only the intake, when it comes to BOTH fans.


EDIT:

To give you an Idea of how quiet the 80cfm Panasonic, <0.3 sones is...
When I first plugged it in (by the way you need to wire it yourself, which is like 1 + 1, a child could do it) I thought the fan was broken, because I couldn't hear shit...I had to put my hand over the vent to realize it is on!

With the carbon, the whisper increases a little, but it is still a whisper...And I have superb hearing!

No, she will probably make you Hula Hoop to get a discount! :muahaha:
 
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