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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

Bulénath

Bulénath

Member
If the ballast buzzes, seems like the wires are all connected and electricity is entering the Ballast, but not cirrculating. So it is being cut off at some point in your ballast. That means probably a single replaceable part has bruned out.

I don't know much about balasts, so lets hope someone who knows about ballasts stops by...
 
Quazi

Quazi

Member
Check all the wiring for the socket and the ignitor.

It's possible something got disconnected or messed up with those and not the ballast.

If your ballast is warming up and all your wiring seems on point, then I would suggest looking into a new socket/ignitor before looking to replace the ballast or the entire unit.

If you can't figure it out though, they're only $20.00 from where you got it from.

-Q :rasta:
 
P

phr3d0m2gr0

57386circuit.jpg


Thanks for the replies. I'm checking my wiring now and this diagram is NOT how i have mine wired. Quazi in your tutorial you didn't make it very clear when you typed it, but i'm assuming this is how you wired your ballast? The difference between mine is that i DO NOT have the black from the socket wired with the blue from the ignitor and ballast. I have the black from the socket wired with the black from the ballast and the black from the wall plug.

Should i change this?

Also if i hear the ballast making noise, but it doesn't warm up does that mean something is probably not wired correctly?

-Phr3
 
Bulénath

Bulénath

Member
Once I had that happen to me. But it turned out one of the wires connecting the bulb's socket to the ballast didn't have a good connection.
It refused to turn on, but made a wierd noise like it was trying.
 
Quazi

Quazi

Member
You're not the first to say the wiring colors in the diagram are different colored than the wiring from the actual lamp setup from e-conolights. I'm not exactly sure on it.

I'll have to take a good look at how it's wired when lights are off. I'll take better pictures and remove the wiring diagram from the tutorial or make a notation if necessary.

-Q :rasta:
 
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N

nomad_soul

Member
I want in the club!

I want in the club!

Whats up IC forum? I just joined the community and am planning my first indoor grow with a 150HPS i just bought from Sun Systems ($78!). I have been an outdoor grower till now, but am ready to try to grow some top quality herb for my lady and myself. I have ordered a pack of Reeferman's Mazar and will be using only this strain to start.

I would like to build a cab like the NGB stickied on the top of this thread. Are the dimensions included accurate? I would like to get the lumber store to make the initial cuts and want to make sure before I buy. Any help that y'all can give would be great. :joint:
 
P

phr3d0m2gr0

nomad be careful when having the lumber store cut it for you as they can be inaccurate sometimes.

Well i just ordered another e-conolight as it seems the ignitor is dead. The ballast doesn't heat up it just makes a faint buzzing/humming noise. I checked all the wires and nothing.
 
N

nomad_soul

Member
yeah

yeah

nomad be careful when having the lumber store cut it for you as they can be inaccurate sometimes.
Click to expand...

Point taken. I am considering buying a grow tent such as the Dark Room DR-40 or DR-60. These tents have a inner footprint of 1'4"x 1'4" & 2'x2' respectively. Which would be better with my 150? I would like to start with one and then get a second for flowering. The ents are very appealing due to the lightweight construction and storage flexibility in the off season. I will only be growing indoor in winter.
 
Indica Monkey

Indica Monkey

Member
I have just completed a 150w grow in a dr60, I made the mistake of vegging them for too long though and they ended up filling the space. This resulted with airy buds all 'round, if the DR40 was on sale in the UK I would probably have gone with one of those but unfortunately I have not seen any around.

So personally I would go for the DR40 and have intense light on a single plant grow, others might think differently though.
 
N

nomad_soul

Member
i concur

i concur

So personally I would go for the DR40 and have intense light on a single plant grow, others might think differently though.
Click to expand...

That is about the decision I have come to myself. Thanks Indica Monkey :joint:
 
guanito

guanito

Active member
Nice remote ballast Bulenath. I got 24 grams dried bud off that plant.

You can't veg more than 2-3 weeks for these small cabs.
 
Bulénath

Bulénath

Member
guanito said:
Nice remote ballast Bulenath. I got 24 grams dried bud off that plant.

You can't veg more than 2-3 weeks for these small cabs.
Click to expand...

Thanks Guanito. Are you the same Guanito from OverGrow's old 150club?


However, about "not being able to veg for more than a few weeks for small cabs"... Well, I grow in a very small cabient, exactly 17-1/2 icnhes from floor to glass shield-reflector.

I have vegged plants for a whole year, basically flowering year old mothers, within that cabient, without any problems. Infact, I am currently doing this!

So you see, it is all relative to the grower, thier strains, thier set-ups, and what type and wattage of light beng used for both veg and flower, and the pots being used, and so many other elements I can't even say them all.

I would suggest, however, that people should veg for a minimum of 3 weeks before flowering within 150hps cabs. You don't have to, but it really helps.

I find that the older a clone is before flowering, the better it will do. Not only genetically old, (like 2 week old clones from a 1 year old mother) But also Veggetative-time old, (letting that 2 week old clone go for months).

The only set back to long-term vegging in small pots with low watts, is going to be having to fix the root ball by removing 1/4" or so from each side of a massive root ball.
If you use the right wattage, spectrum, bulb, nutes, etc, you can keep a mother tiny enough to last for years and years with only 38 watts of CFL, then put her directly into flowering under a 150HPS and still have room to spare!!

On the other hand, if you are growing from seedling under low wattage CFL and in small pots, then your seedlings will only have optimal conditions suiting its needs for the first month or so, after it will need to go into a bigger pot. The thing with seedlings is you want them to have opitmal conditions throughout the entire Veg-cycle. The better the conditions, the better your female ratio. Plants will tend to become male or hermie for the most part, when they are sujected to sub-par conditions. This is a natural defense for the plant to spread its genetics away from what the plant feels is unfavorable flowering conditions. So it is better not to stress seedling too long and flower them within a month, if you are growing with a 150.
 
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Bulénath

Bulénath

Member
Oh and aboutlight bulbs... Just be sure you get the right bulb to fit YOUR socket...

Like either Mogul Based or Medium Based (which is smaller than Mogul)
 
Bulénath

Bulénath

Member
nomad_soul said:
Point taken. I am considering buying a grow tent such as the Dark Room DR-40 or DR-60. These tents have a inner footprint of 1'4"x 1'4" & 2'x2' respectively. Which would be better with my 150? I would like to start with one and then get a second for flowering. The ents are very appealing due to the lightweight construction and storage flexibility in the off season. I will only be growing indoor in winter.
Click to expand...


The smaller one has a foot print of 66.66666watts per square foot. Kinda overkill but not TOO bad. But in this case you need to make sure your bulb is perfectly centered within a couple millimeters of perfection.

The other one is much more suited for a 250HPS, being 4sqf.

Go with the samller one, use a Medium Based Socket if possible because the bulb is smaller and easier to cool and better suited over all for sucha high wattage per square foot grow.
Make sure you have very good ventilation aswell. Keep a good fan blowing over the bulb at all times. I suggest flowering a single plant in a five gallon pot within that small space. That would do very well.

You might wana look into pre-fabricated, melamine cabinets instead, but to each thier own!
 
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