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Aspirin for plant immune booster

Please share your experience with using Aspirin. I was getting some info on another thread that was closed. I just added 325/gal in my rez and will post updates in a few days. I believe I have BM and just started to flower. I know I might get bashed for flowering before correcting. But due to my time frame I had to flip. I just learned of the symptoms and i'm pretty sure this is what I have. Thanks All!
 

vince514

seeker of greater knowledge
Veteran
if u truly have broad mites your gonna need a little more than asprin my friend......
heat heat and more heat if u can get your enviroment to 45-50 degrees for at least 2-3 hours with your plants in there (well watered before ANY heat treatment application) and that should kill your BM problem if thats what it really is......

I wish i could be more helpful on the dosage tho....best of luck
 
if u truly have broad mites your gonna need a little more than asprin my friend......
heat heat and more heat if u can get your enviroment to 45-50 degrees for at least 2-3 hours with your plants in there (well watered before ANY heat treatment application) and that should kill your BM problem if thats what it really is......

I wish i could be more helpful on the dosage tho....best of luck
I have some symptoms, but not completely sure if I got them. I will either have some duds or something decent... either way I cant start over as i'm pot committed for the run.

We shall see?? I'm prolly going to get some OGBIOWAR... but I need my humidifier that's up north at my outdoor spot. Ican't get it until xmas.

My little tent unit won't get me over 50%... From what I have read it needs to be over 60% for it to have any success. In the mean time hoping the Aspirin will help some. Thanks for chiming in!
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
use the og biowar anyhow. my humidity is low in bloom and its the only thing I use to fight bms. u have to spray twice a week tho. it really works good. good luck
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I have some symptoms, but not completely sure if I got them. I will either have some duds or something decent... either way I cant start over as i'm pot committed for the run.

We shall see?? I'm prolly going to get some OGBIOWAR... but I need my humidifier that's up north at my outdoor spot. Ican't get it until xmas.

My little tent unit won't get me over 50%... From what I have read it needs to be over 60% for it to have any success. In the mean time hoping the Aspirin will help some. Thanks for chiming in!

You can't guess if you have them or not. You must scope & confirm before treating. If you confirm that you have them by scoping, then you can treat with heat treatments & OGBiowar. Heat treatment = one hour at 120 Degrees F. No fans blowing on plants. This will kill mites & eggs. Then you can apply OGBiowar if you want, but you must scope constantly, ie., every day. That's the ONLY way to know if you have them or if it's another problem. Don't play the guessing game.
 
You can't guess if you have them or not. You must scope & confirm before treating. If you confirm that you have them by scoping, then you can treat with heat treatments & OGBiowar. Heat treatment = one hour at 120 Degrees F. No fans blowing on plants. This will kill mites & eggs. Then you can apply OGBiowar if you want, but you must scope constantly, ie., every day. That's the ONLY way to know if you have them or if it's another problem. Don't play the guessing game.
I believe i have them, i see a few eggs on the leaves that look like there nute deficient. They have brown/rusty spots along with taco syndrome. I wish i could get my tent up that high but i only run 1 light.

I'm hoping that the Aspirin will at least prevent the duds.. I'm out of smoke and had to flip. It's weird though, the bottom half of the plant seems to look ok, decent green flat leafs. It seems like only the top of the plant is showing problems. The eggs under the radio shack scope look like BB's.. with a little cloudiness.. Not oval shaped like what I've read on the other thread i think?

I want to use the OGBIOWAR, but can't get the humidity up to 60% right now. Any suggestions to get the temps up to 120? I'm in a 10X10 tent, maybe a propane heater? Not sure if that would get the temps up enough or if that is good for the ladys?
 

justanotherbozo

Active member
Veteran
...you need to KNOW man, you can't just guess.

and if i were gonna use a heater it'd be electric and not propane which has exhaust gases.

peace, bozo
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
well the propane stove might actually help by upping co2 levels making the plants better able to deal with the high temps.

anyway the one thing i find it scary to let my room get so hot, i worry about the equipment being unduly stressed. i luckily don't have BroadMites, but wanted to try it for general pest control and i chickened out after it got to 38° lol.
 
...you need to KNOW man, you can't just guess.

and if i were gonna use a heater it'd be electric and not propane which has exhaust gases.

peace, bozo
I can only "assume" i have with the symptoms i'm showing... the scope i'm using isn't very good. I was under the impression the Aspirin along with OGBIOWAR can only help regardless of what i have going on? Do you know of heater i can use to the temps that high? Don't most heaters have a temp shut off? Thanks!
 
What I did

What I did

I can only "assume" i have with the symptoms i'm showing... the scope i'm using isn't very good. I was under the impression the Aspirin along with OGBIOWAR can only help regardless of what i have going on? Do you know of heater i can use to the temps that high? Don't most heaters have a temp shut off? Thanks!

I went to Lowes and bought two sets of Halogen lights 600 W x4= 2400 watts.Try to Raise your main light up about at least four or five feet above top of canopy. Place the halogen lights facing straight up on floor not to close to plants (remove glass covers from halogen light enclosures and Be Careful as those lights will explode if hit with a water drop, be careful.) No air movement... air con, fans ect, none at all. Put temp gauge at top level of canopy growth and another if you have one just about a foot under top of canopy. make sure plants do not have totally dry roots may want to water beforehand.Aspirin are used after you have duds ...it will help some but does not prevent the dud syndrome.I have learned the hard way over the years it's better to cut your losses and treat the problem first (start over with plants you have treated) and then use a aspirin if your sure you have scoped the plants and actually had bm's then start a very strict maintenance program.GL.
 

somerandom

Member
I'm not sure about the size relationship between broad mites and the double spotted little bastards i'm dealing with but if they are around the same size,you should be able to see them with a 60x currency/jewelry loupe and can be had for around $5. Sometimes cheaper the more you buy.

Also I'm not sure if it's a chemical reaction or what but i sprayed leafs with H2O2 and rinsed with pro-tekt and after a day or two it turned the mites completely black and visible to the naked eye.
This didn't kill them but at least now i can see them to take action.This seemd to also move them all away from the stems/stalks and onto the main part of the fan leafs.

I can only "assume" i have with the symptoms i'm showing... the scope i'm using isn't very good. I was under the impression the Aspirin along with OGBIOWAR can only help regardless of what i have going on? Do you know of heater i can use to the temps that high? Don't most heaters have a temp shut off? Thanks!
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I'm not sure about the size relationship between broad mites and the double spotted little bastards i'm dealing with but if they are around the same size,you should be able to see them with a 60x currency/jewelry loupe and can be had for around $5. Sometimes cheaper the more you buy.

Also I'm not sure if it's a chemical reaction or what but i sprayed leafs with H2O2 and rinsed with pro-tekt and after a day or two it turned the mites completely black and visible to the naked eye.
This didn't kill them but at least now i can see them to take action.This seemd to also move them all away from the stems/stalks and onto the main part of the fan leafs.

You're talking about spider mites. He's talking about broad mites, which are microscopic. Loupe won't work. Need 100X scope. Scope he has is fine. Just need a bright LED flashlight to shine on the leaf underside. Eggs will be found on underside of leaves. A little patience is needed.Scope as many damaged looking leaves as possible, and also some that aren't yet showing damage. It's a pain in the ass, but necessary. There are better scopes available which make the job easier, but even the cheap $10 scope works (Radio Shack or Amazon).
 
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RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Aspirin are used after you have duds ...it will help some but does not prevent the dud syndrome program.GL.

Good post about lights, but as far as aspirin, you are mistaken. Aspirin is used to prevent duds, not after they are already duds. Aspirin should be used from the get go in any area where broad mites are prevalent, namely all of California & Colorado where all the clone swapping is done. Always in the rez to stimulate immune response. Plant's normal immune system is salicylic acid. When you put aspirin in water, it breaks down to salicylic acid. This extra salicylic acid jump starts plants natural immune response. I would never grow without aspirin, as it is also a growth stimulator, and has other beneficial properties.
" Tests last year at the Organic Vegetable Garden at the University of Rhode Island in Kingston showed that spraying a water solution containing aspirin increased yields and the quality of tomatoes, eggplant, basil, and other vegetables."
http://www.garden.org/subchannels/care/techniques?q=show&id=2514
MARTHA MCBURNEY, the master gardener in charge of the demonstration vegetable garden at the University of Rhode Island, had a bee in her bonnet. After reading up on the 'Systematic Acquired Resistance' (SAR) in plants, which helps boost their immune system, she became convinced that aspirin would render their immune system even stronger and keep them healthier. Although richly laughed at, last summer she tested 'aspirin water' on a variety of plants.

How much, and how often?

The dosage Martha arrived at after numerous experiments was 1.5 aspirin (81 gr. strength) to two gallons of water. Important note: The tablets should be the uncoated type. She also added two tablespoons of yucca extract to help the aspirin water stick better to the leaves. (The yucca extract can be substituted with a mild liquid soap).

SPRAYING

Finally, Martha divised a schedule of spraying once every three weeks, no matter the type of plant. The summer when Martha first started testing aspirin water was not the best, weather-wise. It was cool, rainy and damp. Yet, by the end of the season, the plants growing in the raised beds on which the aspirin water had been used looked like they were on steroids! They were huge and green and insects-free. Some disease seemed even to have reversed themselves on cucumbers affected by a virus.

Our master gardener now recommends her 'aspirin water' to just about everybody. From people who grow oats to orchids. All have found that plants do remarkably better when given small amounts of aspirin water. It does really well on potted plants too. Specimen are more vigorous and are having fewer problems with aphids and the typical things that can build up on house plants in general.

ASPIRIN IMPROVES SEED GERMINATION

Martha also sprayed the aspirin water on the seeds directly sowed in the ground. The result was close to 100 per cent seed germination, compared to spotty germination in the other trial beds.

Martha's experience caused scientists at the University of Arizona (along with the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)), to start studying how salicylic acid (main component in aspirin) induces plants into releasing their natural defences against harmful fungi, bacteria and viruses. According to an article by Dean Fosdick of the Associated Press, "They envision it as a commercially viable alternative to synthetic pesticides in a natural way to extend the life of susceptible yet popular crops."

One question, though: Is this an organic method? Well, not really. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) is 'derived' from the white willow tree, Salix alba. Studies are now being conducted on plants using pure willow extracts to compare the effects to aspirin.

CUT FLOWERS THAT LAST FOREVER?

Adding an aspirin to a vase of fresh-cut flowers to keep them longer in better shape is often dismissed as an old wives' tale. But current researches have come up with an explanation in favour of using a tablet. Here is why: the wound of a cut flower stimulates the production of a substance that helps the stem fight off potential disease at the injured spot ... but, alas, greatly hastens the wilting process. Aspirin halts the formation of said substance. This, in turn, keeps the flowers looking young and prevents premature wilting..."
Can't post link as it's from another weed site.

"Salicylic acid (SA) is a phenolic phytohormone and is found in plants with roles in plant growth and development, photosynthesis, transpiration, ion uptake and transport. SA also induces specific changes in leaf anatomy and chloroplast structure. SA is involved in endogenous signaling, mediating in plant defense against pathogens. It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins. It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts. The signal can also move to nearby plants by salicylic acid being converted to the volatile ester, methyl salicylate."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid

Notice that Storm Shadow is trolling this thread now & neg-repping all our posts? What a tool.

:tiphat:
 
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Retro, I just flipped... Will adding the Aspirin this early prevent Duds? I ordered the biowar...I'm committed to finishing this out.. I'm tapped on cash and time. Don't think i can do the heat treatment for while. I'm hoping the Aspirin and BIOWAR will be enough to at least salvage my grow.Thanks for all the knowledge!
 
I never stop learning

I never stop learning

Good post about lights, but as far as aspirin, you are mistaken. Aspirin is used to prevent duds, not after they are already duds. Aspirin should be used from the get go in any area where broad mites are prevalent, namely all of California & Colorado where all the clone swapping is done. Always in the rez to stimulate immune response. Plant's normal immune system is salicylic acid. When you put aspirin in water, it breaks down to salicylic acid. This extra salicylic acid jump starts plants natural immune response. I would never grow without aspirin, as it is also a growth stimulator, and has other beneficial properties.
" Tests last year at the Organic Vegetable Garden at the University of Rhode Island in Kingston showed that spraying a water solution containing aspirin increased yields and the quality of tomatoes, eggplant, basil, and other vegetables."
http://www.garden.org/subchannels/care/techniques?q=show&id=2514
MARTHA MCBURNEY, the master gardener in charge of the demonstration vegetable garden at the University of Rhode Island, had a bee in her bonnet. After reading up on the 'Systematic Acquired Resistance' (SAR) in plants, which helps boost their immune system, she became convinced that aspirin would render their immune system even stronger and keep them healthier. Although richly laughed at, last summer she tested 'aspirin water' on a variety of plan

How much, and how often?

The dosage Martha arrived at after numerous experiments was 1.5 aspirin (81 gr. strength) to two gallons of water. Important note: The tablets should be the uncoated type. She also added two tablespoons of yucca extract to help the aspirin water stick better to the leaves. (The yucca extract can be substituted with a mild liquid soap).

SPRAYING

Finally, Martha divised a schedule of spraying once every three weeks, no matter the type of plant. The summer when Martha first started testing aspirin water was not the best, weather-wise. It was cool, rainy and damp. Yet, by the end of the season, the plants growing in the raised beds on which the aspirin water had been used looked like they were on steroids! They were huge and green and insects-free. Some disease seemed even to have reversed themselves on cucumbers affected by a virus.

Our master gardener now recommends her 'aspirin water' to just about everybody. From people who grow oats to orchids. All have found that plants do remarkably better when given small amounts of aspirin water. It does really well on potted plants too. Specimen are more vigorous and are having fewer problems with aphids and the typical things that can build up on house plants in general.

ASPIRIN IMPROVES SEED GERMINATION

Martha also sprayed the aspirin water on the seeds directly sowed in the ground. The result was close to 100 per cent seed germination, compared to spotty germination in the other trial beds.

Martha's experience caused scientists at the University of Arizona (along with the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)), to start studying how salicylic acid (main component in aspirin) induces plants into releasing their natural defences against harmful fungi, bacteria and viruses. According to an article by Dean Fosdick of the Associated Press, "They envision it as a commercially viable alternative to synthetic pesticides in a natural way to extend the life of susceptible yet popular crops."

One question, though: Is this an organic method? Well, not really. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) is 'derived' from the white willow tree, Salix alba. Studies are now being conducted on plants using pure willow extracts to compare the effects to aspirin.

CUT FLOWERS THAT LAST FOREVER?

Adding an aspirin to a vase of fresh-cut flowers to keep them longer in better shape is often dismissed as an old wives' tale. But current researches have come up with an explanation in favour of using a tablet. Here is why: the wound of a cut flower stimulates the production of a substance that helps the stem fight off potential disease at the injured spot ... but, alas, greatly hastens the wilting process. Aspirin halts the formation of said substance. This, in turn, keeps the flowers looking young and prevents premature wilting..."
Can't post link as it's from another weed site.

"Salicylic acid (SA) is a phenolic phytohormone and is found in plants with roles in plant growth and development, photosynthesis, transpiration, ion uptake and transport. SA also induces specific changes in leaf anatomy and chloroplast structure. SA is involved in endogenous signaling, mediating in plant defense against pathogens.[4] It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins.[5] It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts. The signal can also move to nearby plants by salicylic acid being converted to the volatile ester, methyl salicylate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid

Notice that Storm Shadow is trolling this thread now & neg-repping all our posts? What a tool.

:tiphat:

I had that storm figured long ago..hehe. Ya ,I just don't like using more and more stuff all the time .I find my best grows are when I keep it simple. But, actually this time was one of my better grows after the battles I have had these last few years.And I did use aspirin all the way through cause I knew the plants looked good but wanted to make sure as one of the SSH pheno's was hit pretty hard by the toxin. Had some immature seed pods develop (That I never had for thirty years) no light leak, no other envo stress and it was on the pheno that was slow to recover. And I ended up scraping mother. (The best pheno "tropical spice" taste/smell SSH is completely normal I would say) Good information there about the aspirin Retrow and if not for your "Heat techniques" I would be toast....(pun) hehe.
 
I went to Lowes and bought two sets of Halogen lights 600 W x4= 2400 watts.Try to Raise your main light up about at least four or five feet above top of canopy. Place the halogen lights facing straight up on floor not to close to plants (remove glass covers from halogen light enclosures and Be Careful as those lights will explode if hit with a water drop, be careful.) No air movement... air con, fans ect, none at all. Put temp gauge at top level of canopy growth and another if you have one just about a foot under top of canopy. make sure plants do not have totally dry roots may want to water beforehand.
Thanks dude!!
I will be doing this in the future!
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Retro, I just flipped... Will adding the Aspirin this early prevent Duds? I ordered the biowar...I'm committed to finishing this out.. I'm tapped on cash and time. Don't think i can do the heat treatment for while. I'm hoping the Aspirin and BIOWAR will be enough to at least salvage my grow.Thanks for all the knowledge!

You've asked this same/similar question four times already that I remember. It's been answered several times also, including in this thread. It's never too early to add aspirin. I use it on seedlings and throughout the grow. Did you even read my previous post about some of the benefits of aspirin? If anything, you are trying to treat too late. You should not be flipping if you have BMs. You should get them under control before flipping, as you don't want mites on your flowers. However, if you insist on doing things backwards, I guess there is no point in trying to steer you in the right direction. It's NEVER too early to add aspirin. It is in my rez at ALL times. I don't know how to put it more clearly than that.
I would not put plants with BMs into flower. It's as simple as that. If you insist on doing it that way, your entire grow is at risk unless you kill those mites fast. Only way to do that is heat treatment at this stage. One hour @ 120F=dead mites. Your room lights alone should bring temps to 100. Then add another heat source, as Some Old Dude recommended, until you get to 120F. It's really not that difficult. Borrow a light, put it on a credit card, borrow some money with product as collateral, anything to get the heat source. Once you have the extra heat source dialed in, it is simple, quick and effective. Wouldn't you rather take care of the mites now in one hour, rather than flowering them without treating first and hoping for a good result?
 
You've asked this same/similar question four times already that I remember. It's been answered several times also, including in this thread. It's never too early to add aspirin. I use it on seedlings and throughout the grow. Did you even read my previous post about some of the benefits of aspirin? If anything, you are trying to treat too late. You should not be flipping if you have BMs. You should get them under control before flipping, as you don't want mites on your flowers. However, if you insist on doing things backwards, I guess there is no point in trying to steer you in the right direction. It's NEVER too early to add aspirin. It is in my rez at ALL times. I don't know how to put it more clearly than that.
I would not put plants with BMs into flower. It's as simple as that. If you insist on doing it that way, your entire grow is at risk unless you kill those mites fast. Only way to do that is heat treatment at this stage. One hour @ 120F=dead mites. Your room lights alone should bring temps to 100. Then add another heat source, as Some Old Dude recommended, until you get to 120F. It's really not that difficult. Borrow a light, put it on a credit card, borrow some money with product as collateral, anything to get the heat source. Once you have the extra heat source dialed in, it is simple, quick and effective. Wouldn't you rather take care of the mites now in one hour, rather than flowering them without treating first and hoping for a good result?
My bad with the repetitive questions. I definitely didn't word the question right. I ment too late as i flipped already. I believe you posted on the BM thread that before you were aware of what you had the Aspirin was preventing DUDS.

I agree 100% i shouldn't of flipped but i have time restrictions. I will run Aspirin from now on as the leaves are pointing up towards the light and they look better. My Tent is in the garage and it barely gets to 80 closed with fans on. So that's why i didn't feel i can get the temps to 120. I actually have another 1k and 600 and will try to get the temps up this weekend.

The BIOWAR is on it's way. I was hoping to at least control it with Aspirin/BIOWAR. I haven't finished reading the BM thread but it sounds like you have never used the BIOWAR? Anyways bro, you lead me to water so it's on me now. I appreciate all the info and patience with my silly questions! Thank You!
 
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