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a ppk for a 6 plant limit
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
Welcome to the club. Why, may I ask, are you thinking that the holes will prevent clogging? If that does it, I'm breaking out the drill.
And with the holes, a complete flood is not possible, only pulse feeding. I'm thinking that more frequent smaller feedings and keeping the top half of the media wetter the roots will not have the impetus to go down the tail piece.
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RamCTD1027
Member
What's up PPK crew?
Big shout out to everyone here who helped me produce a very successful first run, even with all the problems I dealt with. After all said and done, I yielded 1.01 g/w which is the best I've ever done. Although this isn't the best variable to measure success, I believe it speaks volumes about the simplicity and performance of the PPK system as a whole.
After cleaning, I immediately reloaded to system for round two. Due to lack of funds, I did not have an appropriate veg area set up so my girls for this run are toooo tall. I attempted to add SM90 and Pro-tekt to the mix this time but I've been battling terrible pH drift with the additions so now it's back to the basics....just jacks + calnit. One thing that came to me last night....
I transplanted almost 2 weeks ago. Since I was dealing with inadequate veg space, all the plants were over-vegged in a small space in small pots. Some of the plants appeared to be root-bound. When I transplanted, like an idiot, I forgot to break up the root ball. After almost two weeks of veg in the system, I'm not seeing a large amount of new root growth when I dig down into the pots.
Question 1: should I have broken up the root ball? (I assume yes)
Question 2: should I dig up the plants and break up the root ball now? The plants are still in veg until the middle of next week so there is time if need be.
I don't anticipate run #2 being nearly as successful as run #1 due to my veg issues, however, I now have a veg setup so run #3 should be impressive.
Thanks for the help.
Big shout out to everyone here who helped me produce a very successful first run, even with all the problems I dealt with. After all said and done, I yielded 1.01 g/w which is the best I've ever done. Although this isn't the best variable to measure success, I believe it speaks volumes about the simplicity and performance of the PPK system as a whole.
After cleaning, I immediately reloaded to system for round two. Due to lack of funds, I did not have an appropriate veg area set up so my girls for this run are toooo tall. I attempted to add SM90 and Pro-tekt to the mix this time but I've been battling terrible pH drift with the additions so now it's back to the basics....just jacks + calnit. One thing that came to me last night....
I transplanted almost 2 weeks ago. Since I was dealing with inadequate veg space, all the plants were over-vegged in a small space in small pots. Some of the plants appeared to be root-bound. When I transplanted, like an idiot, I forgot to break up the root ball. After almost two weeks of veg in the system, I'm not seeing a large amount of new root growth when I dig down into the pots.
Question 1: should I have broken up the root ball? (I assume yes)
Question 2: should I dig up the plants and break up the root ball now? The plants are still in veg until the middle of next week so there is time if need be.
I don't anticipate run #2 being nearly as successful as run #1 due to my veg issues, however, I now have a veg setup so run #3 should be impressive.
Thanks for the help.
Snook
Still Learning
if they are tall and spindly, cut them down to whatever height you wish (less spindly) and veg another week or two under better light in the bloom area to form better looking/structured plants. I believe the roots will take care of themselves.
JamesFarmer
Member
Transplant Question?
Transplant Question?
Hey Everyone,
I have an opening in my Veg system and want to add a particular strain. Unfortunately the clone I was going to place is not ready.
I can get a mature clone from one of my friends that is rooted in ProMix HP.
What can you all tell me about transplanting from ProMix to Turface?
While running RDWC I had to use ProMix rooted clones on several occasions and found that they would shed & regrow roots when placed in RDWC. This would set the plants back about 2 weeks.
Transplant Question?
Hey Everyone,
I have an opening in my Veg system and want to add a particular strain. Unfortunately the clone I was going to place is not ready.
I can get a mature clone from one of my friends that is rooted in ProMix HP.
What can you all tell me about transplanting from ProMix to Turface?
While running RDWC I had to use ProMix rooted clones on several occasions and found that they would shed & regrow roots when placed in RDWC. This would set the plants back about 2 weeks.
av8or
Member
When I've done it (a bit) I noodled off the promix as best I could then tossed them right in my 7 gallon pot with turface. I decreased feed frequency for the first few days and then it went right back to flooding every 90 minutes. Depends on how rooted the clones are. The older they are, the harder it seems to be. I always did it with a 4-6" clone with success. And yes, it will stll stall for a while as the roots shape up for the turface. Personally, I'd let the mature clone grow into a teen in the promix and then sacrifice it to clones and root the cuttings right in turface. Then you won't run into the typical stalls and, if everything else goes smoothly, I think you'd yield more and be less prone to subsequent problems.
JamesFarmer
Member
That is my "second choice".
I am trying to get my perpetual running without interruption and the clone that I wanted to drop in that spot is running behind.
I have other strains in Hydroton that moves fairly easily into Turface. It sounds like I need to drop one of those into my open spot and continue to grow my Turface clones up to fill successive spots.
My issue is that the "too small" clones that I have in Turface are the strain that I make my CannaCaps out of and I am running out
Thanks for your assistance. Much appreciated!!
Boutique Manettino
Member
So as noted above by Av8or, not an ideal situation. An ideal situation is always to root your cuttings in whatever medium you plan to use.
Going from Promix to RDWC (recirculating hydro) is a significantly more dramatic jump that Promix to Turface in a PPK. Wow... about the only thing i can think of that would be more dramatic is going to Aero...
Anyway... how big are the containers of Promix your bro has the "Mature Clones" in?
The smaller the better. If like 1 gallon or so... grab what you need, pull the root ball out of the container and lay it on it's side on a flat surface. Manually break up the media as much as you can, being as gentle as you can.
You can lift it up and agitate the ball with your fingers. Remove as much Promix from the outer parts of the root ball as you can and leave the core of the root ball as intact as possible.
Try and get the Turface as deep as possible; have as much depth between the bottom of the root ball w/Promix in it and the bottom of the container w/Turface in it. Dig just enough of a hole in the Turface and pop your scraggly Promix rootball (w/plant attached) into the hole.
If this were my plant, you'd see the Promix rootball sticking up above the surface of the Turface over an inch... I wouldn't bury it flush with the Turface... it looks amateur but will result in a larger root mass in the Turface (it basically forces it) which you can then irrigate more frequently than you can Promix.
I'd definitely stake up the plant right away so it has support. Pretty important if you fuck with any root balls and want growth to resume quick.
Also take the irrigation line for that plant site and move it over to another site if you can, or close the valve.... hand water it for a few days till you see new growth on each branch tip.
This has worked not only for Promix to Turface... but also Promix to Hydroton before Turface was used.
JamesFarmer
Member
They are in 1 gallon grow bags.
I think I may give this a try for my "next" opening in veg. That will give it some time to root in the Turface.
I am beginning to think that in addition to my 6 site veg PPk and my 8 site flower PPK that I may want a 1-2 site PPK for "prepping".
when i switched to all ppk over the last 4 months,i transplanted 11 plants in varying stages from promix 3 gal smart pots to my ppk's.the first 4 plants finished this week.they only had a week adjusting to the ppk and they were all almost 3 foot tall.it was not a great crop but the plants looked good ,the buds look good the first taste test was good the second the rh hit 58 %.i averaged 5 1/4 oz per plant x4.the next batch is half way through and look even better.they had 4 weeks in the ppk before flip so the roots had alot longer to adjust to the new home.
JamesFarmer
Member
Hey Everyone,
Thanks again for the assistance. My nute troubles are pretty much resolved. Once I got the mixing of the nutes right, moved to a larger pump (1000gph/6site) and shortened my feeding duration the girls are looking MUCH better.
I am still surprised that adding the Cal-nit first, instead of the Jack's first, can make such a significant difference.
I would not have figured that one out on my own...
I have a related question: I am using the Jacks/Calnit mix to feed plants in ProMix HP as well. The small ones are looking great but the larger plants are all showing varying signs on N deficiency. I thought it would be quite handy to be able to use my main storage res to feed all of my plants. Is this a bad idea?
Thanks again.
Thanks again for the assistance. My nute troubles are pretty much resolved. Once I got the mixing of the nutes right, moved to a larger pump (1000gph/6site) and shortened my feeding duration the girls are looking MUCH better.
I am still surprised that adding the Cal-nit first, instead of the Jack's first, can make such a significant difference.
I would not have figured that one out on my own...
I have a related question: I am using the Jacks/Calnit mix to feed plants in ProMix HP as well. The small ones are looking great but the larger plants are all showing varying signs on N deficiency. I thought it would be quite handy to be able to use my main storage res to feed all of my plants. Is this a bad idea?
Thanks again.
av8or
Member
Gnats are usually a coco thing. Double check and make absolutely sure you don't have root aphids. Root aphids will have two canon tube looking things protruding from its ass. Check for crawlers, too. I was hoping I had gnats. I didn't. Root aphids are a pain to get rid of sometimes.
i only have a few fliers.it has not been that long since i switched from pro mix to ppk with turface..last week i chopped 3 plants that started in pro mix but switched to ppk 4 weeks before flip.i saw no bugs in the roots or turface and i did clean the turface of roots already.
no new plants have been introduced to the grow in over 3 months except clones i made here.i have been on lockdown since i was battling spider mites.i just am curious if using crumbled mosquito dunks work good in ppk.
no new plants have been introduced to the grow in over 3 months except clones i made here.i have been on lockdown since i was battling spider mites.i just am curious if using crumbled mosquito dunks work good in ppk.
You mean Jacks first, then CalNit.
I hand feed my 'little ones' with the same 600ppm mix as the bloomers, NP with the babies.
...420, no fuggin gnats since turface, years ago.
EDIT: OOPS! I remember, you used to add CN b4 the Jacks, now you do J then CN, sorry.
transitions are always my worst part, 2nd to cloning. so i value my clones that do take. with only 5 runs a year in each room, shaving veg time to get the rooms back into flower has been my one of main focus the past 6 months.
2 products well worth the money have decreased my transition time greatly. these have been tested in my prior ebb&flood systems, an top drip recirc systems without chillers an to date the best bang for the costly buck. my ppk system has been running about 10 weeks so far with these 2 products with excellent results.
1) recharge from real growers. its a beneficial bacteria dry inoculate. it has Mycorrrhizae & Trichoderma fungi that benefit root development.
2) canna's rhizotonic. run it at 5 mill per gallon transistions, then 2 mill into veg
both those products work well by themselves, but even better when combined. if you interested on how i run them let me know an i will type more about how i apply them. rhizotonic can be applied right in the rez no problems. the recharge takes a little more work but is sooooooooooooooooo fucking worth it. lateral root development an fuzzy roots make such a difference in nute uptake.
happpy roots equall happy plants. makes deficiencies less prone. u add this beneficial bacteria army an they will fight off the bad bacteria an your plants will thrive. spend some money on these. amazon is a good place to start. i spend less money on nutes because of jacks, so that allows me to feel better by using these 2 products.
really, not smoke an mirrors , good stuff!!!!!!
bsafe
oh ya, gnats like turface too!! mosquito dunks an coriander oil help keep them away.
Oh yeah, FGs love over wet turface and 8822. If you have lots with turface you may be keeping it too wet and risking root rot. That was my last grow and even tho i salvaged a bit it was practically a total loss and hoping to avoid that experience again in the future.
If u see brown spots start on wet or limp leaves then check your tailpipe water gap in your bucket to ensure your gap is correct. At 4 to 4.5 inches i was growing trees, at 3" my plants were dying. I was using full flood every 90min and it was too wet with 3" gap.
If u see brown spots start on wet or limp leaves then check your tailpipe water gap in your bucket to ensure your gap is correct. At 4 to 4.5 inches i was growing trees, at 3" my plants were dying. I was using full flood every 90min and it was too wet with 3" gap.
