Growroom Electricity and Wiring

madpenguin

Member

• Apr 20, 2009

• #61

Types of Receptacles

Types of Receptacles

Another post reminded me of the importance of using the correct receptacle for the proper application. Thought I'd share the different NEMA receptacle's here.

Ignore all horizontal columns except for the 125v and 250v ones. The rest are for 3 phase commercial applications.

Receptacles, just like wire, are only rated for a certain amperage. Make sure you don't mix and match. If you've got a 30A branch circuit then you need to use a 30A receptacle.

Again, this is North American only.

 

Phillthy

Seven-Thirty

ICMag Donor

Veteran

• Apr 20, 2009

• #62

Thanks madpenguin. I have recently switched to tamper resistant/weather resistant outlets.

 

M

moses224

• Apr 20, 2009

• #63

yamaha_1fan said:

ACtually it IS the more complicated stuff that we cant outsource. I used Sunsystem ballasts with Hydrofarm hoods. Who am I going to call to cut the plugs off and hardwire them? Nobody, I had to do it myself. If a ballast goes bad, who am I going to have fix it? Nobody, myself.

And if setting up a 5000+ grow, you cant really have an electrician in. There is no reasonable reson for wanting so much power, in such a small space with outlets everywhere you need it.

It would be nice if we had a dedicated electrical section where anyone could post topics, but only a qualified few could respond.


The info posted here is very helpful

Click to expand...

agree hundred percent i just wired a new 240 and did it from talk with guy in store and forum...we should have forum with sticky on basics and then have opportunity to answer questions

 

madpenguin

Member

• Apr 21, 2009

• #64

I wanted to clarify really quick. When ever I say "outlet", I'm actually referring to a junction box. I've probably said the word "outlet" a billion times, and hopefully, not once was I actually talking about a receptacle.

An "outlet", as defined by the NEC, is a point in the wiring system where conductors can be utilized. Nothing more. That's not the exact definition but close enough.

If you pull your ceiling fixture down in the living room.... That's an outlet. So, when reading the AFCI requirements back a couple posts, your light fixture in your bedroom needs to be AFCI protected. Your smoke alarms.... Pretty much everything listed in those rooms along with the receptacles.

Homeowners:
light bulb
light fixture
outlet
sub panel (In a submarine?)

Electricians:
lamp
luminarie
receptacle
panelboard or loadcenter

It can get confusing when trying to interchange the two definitions.

 

S

sparkjumper

• Apr 21, 2009

• #65

Edit due to lack of comprehension

 

C

Cracky

• Apr 21, 2009

• #66

The only real danger at all is plugging in a 120V appliance accidentally whoops

very un-good. Install proper receptacles and attachment plugs. "Keeping it original" is not an option. Buy the replacement cord, if available.

Shovelhandle
IBEW

 

S

sparkjumper

• Apr 21, 2009

• #67

Ah but it is an option as I've proven to myself for nearly a decade.I know this isnt for everyone I happen to live alone so if I blew up a vacuum cleaner it would be on me lol.At least you didnt say it was electrically dangerous like I've heard too often.I wouldnt want anyone to do anything they dont feel is 100% cool for them thats for sure

 

C

Cracky

• Apr 21, 2009

• #68

No problem, if you kept your 'handy tips' to yourself. But posting something that is potentially dangerous as an option or recomendation is not helpful. We all make 'shortcuts' sometime but in any case it's best not to encourage others to do so. I do believe that you understand electricity but be careful what information you share. Even the best, code-worthy advice can be fucked up by an amateur. Just my $.02

I do have a good sugestion to all growers, put up a smoke/fire detector in your grow area. I bought a decent one for $5 at a hardware store on sale. It may just allow you to avoid bad scene someday. Can't hurt, heh?

 

S

sparkjumper

• Apr 21, 2009

• #69

"Potentially dangerous"?Here we go I'll just delete the post since 2 cents is worth exactly that and not worth it.Before you declare something "potentially dangerous" though you really should understand electrical wiring and devices yourself.

 

C

Cracky

• Apr 21, 2009

• #70

Yep, junior. I don't understand those complicated things...
36 years as a licensed master electrician. Member International Association of Electrical Inspectors, National Fire Protection Association, Institute of Electical and Electronic Engineers and a Level II Certified Infrared Thermographer (ya, I read you 'enlightening' posts about your 'Lazer Thermometer" too, LOL)

 

S

sparkjumper

• Apr 21, 2009

• #71

You find something funny about using a lazer thermometer to check canopy or ambient temps do you cracky?I'm a licensed electrician too man but anyone can say anything on the internet.I certainly don't carry your credentials..Just giving an honest example of how I've grown for years thats all

 

C

Cracky

• Apr 21, 2009

• #72

you have a punk attitude.

 

S

sparkjumper

• Apr 21, 2009

• #73

And you like too many others are real tough guys behind your keyboards.I deleted the original post yet ther are douchbags that want to carry on.I should have known better than to post something different but tried and true by many growers.Do you think I invented that shit?Anyway tough guy,about my lazer thermometer thread you were saying?For someone with such credentials you pick a strange handle are you a crackmonster maybe?

 

madpenguin

Member

• Apr 21, 2009

• #74

Cracky said:

I do have a good sugestion to all growers, put up a smoke/fire detector in your grow area. I bought a decent one for $5 at a hardware store on sale. It may just allow you to avoid bad scene someday. Can't hurt, heh?

Click to expand...

Probably the best suggestion to date. Along with doing the above, you should keep a fire extinguisher outside the entrance to your room.

It all boils down to being able to get the situation under control BEFORE the fire department is alerted to the situation. If the fire dept. shows up, the police will soon follow.

You should probably also keep a sledge hammer and/or crow bar handy. If you have an outlet fire that gets out of hand, you would definitely want to immediately rip the dry wall down in that area to make sure nothing started on the inside of the wall.

If you can keep the fire dept. away, just tell any inquiring neighbors that you fell asleep with a pizza in the oven.

On a related note, I'd strongly suggest that you guys not use extension cords for anything. Not even 12/2 heavy duty ones. Extension cords are meant for temporary use only. Too many things can go wrong with extension cords. I burned an AC extension cord up along with a timer running my lights last year. Luckily I just walked into a dark room with a melted end of the extension cord and timer along with a pile of black soot on the floor. Things could have been OH so worse for me and I lucked out.

 

madpenguin

Member

• Apr 21, 2009

• #75

Lets just let it go guys. No need to derail here.

 

Phillthy

Seven-Thirty

ICMag Donor

Veteran

• Apr 22, 2009

• #76

Please let's keep this thread positive guys Trying to compile a comprehensive resource for all to use.

 

packn2puff

IC Official Assistant to the Insistent

Veteran

• Apr 25, 2009

• #77

Yeah we need everybody to stay well grounded here..no need for sparks to fly..need to maintain continuity in the thread..stay on the current subject..no more resistance..hehe

I can do that all day..

$$$tip..want a cheap ballast..and other lighting equipment..buy your stuff at your local electrical distributor..
They usually have more stuff and better prices..you can buy a universal ballast kit..comes with mounts & diagram..
I've repaired tons of indoor/outdoor lighting(MH, HPS, MercV, LPS, you name it) and those kits are easy..
Just tell the guy what Type & Wattage..they are almost always multi-tapped for use with 120, 208, 240, or 277V..

Into fluoro's..I installed some new high efficiency high bay lighting that used a polished reflector..
6 - T5's and intellivolt(any voltage between 120 & 277 on the leads & the ballast takes care of it) instant start ballasts..
All I could think while installing them was.."man these would be great veg lights"
All for now..

 

madpenguin

Member

• Apr 25, 2009

• #78

packn2puff said:

Yeah we need everybody to stay well grounded here..no need for sparks to fly..need to maintain continuity in the thread..stay on the current subject..no more resistance..

Click to expand...

Wow... That was bad... :wink:

I'm kind of running out of subject matter. Guess I could do a MWBC post. They have many benefits as well as a couple draw backs. Guess the reader can decide... I'll post later. Too nice out to be sitting in front of the computer.

 

F

flyfishfreak

New member

• Apr 29, 2009

• #79

I had some questions about wiring a few appliances to two relay's in a j-box. Can you do this and have the line from the j-box plug into a surge suppresor? I want to have have both relays in one box, as well as two power cords attached to each coil, that then plug into my dual timer/temperature controller. This way I only have to plug the controller, the j-box and my main fan into a strip located in a section of my cabinet (then the strip to a wall outlet). I can then unplug and move the cabinet wherever I want. I know the two appliances and all equipment are 120v-125v (60hz), with total watts well below 200 and total amps around 7. The line from the outlet I want to use is to the main box (20a circuit) shared by one additional/unused outlet.

For the J-Box I want to hard-wire using good wire, so if i match the line with the same as the light fixtures and controller (18/3, 20A, 300v SJT) and then attach a FEMA 125v, 20A receptacle will that be O.K.? Also what type of conductor should I use and J-box?

The idea here is that I want the controlled appliances (duct fan for additional cooling and lights) to be more permanent, thus eliminating a lot of excess wire and saving some money by using less expensive controllers if possible. If not I don't mind buying a more expensive dual controller and going to plug and play route. I really want this thing looking nice, and swap out some wire to make it safer.

 

N

naturedude

New member

• May 13, 2009

• #80

6hr Flip Flop . Would this plan work?

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Seeing how summer is here I am trying to cut down on heat , and after a little research this diagram is what i came up with . I was hoping someone with a little more electrical experience could approve or make suggestions on this . The board at the top of the pic is what I am currently using . I am just trying to figure out the relay thing and see if I can flip 3 lights after 6 hours during my 12 hour cycle on ,for a 6 light total with only 3 running at once . I am also trying to figure out how to change 1 outlit to 120 volts on my 240 v board .Preferebly with the 120 v (air condition) outlit powered 24 hr . If anyone has suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.