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Worried about loosing my plant - First time DWC asks for help

Evell1950

Member
80*F daytime temp 70*F night .... Whatever the temperature is the humidity should be about 10 below that number......The drier the more rapid the plants are eating/drinking, and being pushed.... The wetter the more buffered and slow the food is being absorbed. You can control if the plants are being worked or chilling.

A calmag foliar or weak veg mix would probably give them a jolt of energy and bounce back fast.

ok so i will foliar feed calmag... what EC foliar feeding? like normal EC 0.4 for CALMAG? Bottle says to mix nutes up to 0.4 EC with CALMAG so should i go full strength cal mag while foliar feeding or higher/lower?
 

Dr.Young

K+ vibes
Veteran
I would go super gentle.... can always do it again, but if you burn them you cant take it back.... Just give them 100ppm calmag.... see if they go crazy and get big within a day.
 

Evell1950

Member
I would go super gentle.... can always do it again, but if you burn them you cant take it back.... Just give them 100ppm calmag.... see if they go crazy and get big within a day.

ok so 100ppm about EC 0.2 so 50% strength... i'll do that today... is there such a thing as TOO MUCH WATER ON LEAVES? like i was foliar feeding once and sparing often and soon the plant started drooping.. but maybe she was drooping because of too much light problem and not because of too much water as i thought... so question is: is there something as TOO much water on the leaves... can i overspray them? like do they die if its "raining" a lot the whole day or is that ok and doesnt matter better to rain whole day than extreme desert dryness?
 

Evell1950

Member
Did u notice on my plant... the healthy leaves are very flat and the damaged new growth is all puffed up and looking like 3D leaves i dont know hot to describe that but the damaged yellow new leaves are not as flat as healty new growth... they are about double as thick as a normal leave they are puffed up... like as if they would be fillet with a lot of water or something... do u know what that is? or the problem/culprit?
 

Dr.Young

K+ vibes
Veteran
With it warm and wind blowing they will dry fast..... Its all super easy.... Just trust VPD and let the plants do what they do
 

Evell1950

Member
With it warm and wind blowing they will dry fast..... Its all super easy.... Just trust VPD and let the plants do what they do

how warm is best? while 70% power light i have about 28 C... when lowering light temp will drop to about 25C... maybe even lower like 21C... what would be too low? Right now the heater is broken so there is no way at heating the room... instead of buying a new heater... but if 21 C is enough then i dont need to buy one.
 

Dr.Young

K+ vibes
Veteran
If you have to.... just move light further away and keep it at whatever power you need to keep them around 24-25c+. 25*C isn't bad at all.......... Also water temps in DWC is #1.. warm roots equals low oxygen and root rot pythium.... gotta keep water around 20*C.for pearly white roots unless you use stuff to fight it which is a losing battle.

Just dont stress it.....stay mellow....follow vpd and your gut.... be gentle with the plants and stay outta there way... dont be too scientific about it... Just feed gentle and let VPD do the work....... Carbon,Hydrogen,Oxygen is everything.... co2 vpd and genetics will get you 2-3gpw dream, not any nute bottle.
 

Evell1950

Member
what is the MAXIMUM water temp to provide enough oxygen without buying extra 20 chillers? so if mine is higher... should i lower it asap and keep it there with like frozen water bottles or something like that?
 

Evell1950

Member
everytime i check water is around 20.0 to 20.2 C.... but sometimes its just 22 without the other temps changing (like air temp leaf temp and so on) that makes me ask it the thermometer is malfunctioning when it shows 22... since the tank is isolated with isolation material and a built construction around it.
 

Evell1950

Member
Thanks for ur help btw dude! Sprayed her with 0.2 EC / 200ppm CALMAG water... will look at her how shes going... how long to expect to see a difference? better/worse...? more drooping would be worse right...? but if the leaves raise to the sky and get deeper color that would be good right?
 

Dr.Young

K+ vibes
Veteran
At 72*F and above you start to get pythium potential, but at the time I was not able to handle VPD properly so my temperatures/humdity was horrible and plants were stressed to the point of issues without the water temp being a initial problem. I was trying peroxide, chlorine, and frozen water bottles.....
If you have to keep the room cooler to manage the res temps just do it, and match the right VPD you'll be fine.... Maybe have a cold res outside and pump inside.
 

Evell1950

Member
At 72*F and above you start to get pythium potential, but at the time I was not able to handle VPD properly so my temperatures/humdity was horrible and plants were stressed to the point of issues without the water temp being a initial problem. I was trying peroxide, chlorine, and frozen water bottles.....
If you have to keep the room cooler to manage the res temps just do it, and match the right VPD you'll be fine.... Maybe have a cold res outside and pump inside.

Ok I see! Better to keep water temps in check than air temps at high levels... dude thanks for ur help I really appreciate ur time! i'll read it over and over and will make the changes now... will update over the course thank you very much! :)
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
No, but the lowest temp is what matters. I bet it's Mg or Ca or P def or something like that. Do you have any closeup pics of that?
 

Evell1950

Member
No, but the lowest temp is what matters. I bet it's Mg or Ca or P def or something like that. Do you have any closeup pics of that?

temparatuer is mostly constant... lik 25C all day thru

look at page 2. There are a lot of close up pics of the plants and all the leaves and so on :) is that enough or what do u mean?
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Well, those show clear signs of Ca and Mg defs. So that is where you should start. Maybe PH related, since those 2 have more limited absorbtion intervals than other nutes?
I was thinking you got more recent pics to show how is going now, but those are clear enaugh to get you started on fixing this.
noexif_b5c19811.jpg
 

Evell1950

Member
Well, those show clear signs of Ca and Mg defs. So that is where you should start. Maybe PH related, since those 2 have more limited absorbtion intervals than other nutes?
I was thinking you got more recent pics to show how is going now, but those are clear enaugh to get you started on fixing this.

first... i didnt use calmag for weeks... she ran in deficiencies and i started to use calmag because a user recommended... i started to use at 50% strength and things got better... over time i didnt add anything so still the 50% strength and maybe a lot was already absorbed so nothing left in water... maybe thats the reason why... i was not adding enough calmag in the first place and then i wasnt refeeding in about a week! so maybe she sucked all the 50% strength (100 ppm/ 0.2 EC )calmag over the week and thats why she went so severe deficient again? could that be? PH is on point all the time... and raisind like people suggested... and PH also calibrated so i know the reading is correct.... but think about the calmag problem and that i only started useing 50% strength when she was already deficient and didnt add more over a week so maybe thats exactly the problem right now?? Calmag was tooo low for toooo long (basically since seed planting...)
 
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