Diary White Rhino & Friends. Fall 2021 Grow.
- Thread starter aliceklar
- Start date
aliceklar
Active member
Thanks dude! I hope I manage to keep this 3rd batch on the rails! When they're big enough to pot on, will move to 3 litre pots, again with the 50/50 perlite/coir mix. Wondering what impact a layer of compost on top of this might have, but maybe should restrain myself from experimenting further until I've at least got a basic method worked out and understand what is going on. My last two grows were so much easier than this one
the 2nd batch (mostly MSNL Blueberry regs, you can see one of them in the top right of the 2nd pic) are really unhappy in the compost/perlite mix, and have completely stalled - the new batch already overtaking them. Will probably cull the BB tonight to clear the space. Will keep flushing the remainder from the first batch with low pH water (giving a few days in between each time to dry out) & foliar feeding. They are grimly hanging on... will give them another week or two to see if they revive. Some plants there I really dont want to lose.
Thanks dude! I hope I manage to keep this 3rd batch on the rails! When they're big enough to pot on, will move to 3 litre pots, again with the 50/50 perlite/coir mix. Wondering what impact a layer of compost on top of this might have, but maybe should restrain myself from experimenting further until I've at least got a basic method worked out and understand what is going on. My last two grows were so much easier than this one
the 2nd batch (mostly MSNL Blueberry regs, you can see one of them in the top right of the 2nd pic) are really unhappy in the compost/perlite mix, and have completely stalled - the new batch already overtaking them. Will probably cull the BB tonight to clear the space. Will keep flushing the remainder from the first batch with low pH water (giving a few days in between each time to dry out) & foliar feeding. They are grimly hanging on... will give them another week or two to see if they revive. Some plants there I really dont want to lose.
Third batch is the charm, right?!
Definitely looking better in the perlite/coir mix! Man, don’t know about that compost. Still feels like something is off with it.
Nice job rolling with the punches - fingers crossed for the important ones’ survival!
Last edited:
aliceklar
Active member
You're right... Am going to be careful!
Gave test group from #1 batch a second flush today, pH in 5.5, pH out 6.7.
aliceklar
Active member
Culled most of the Blueberries & had a tidy up. Watered batch 3 with 1/4 strength tomato feed / maxicrop at pH 5.87. New kids mostly looking ok still . Some of the F2s runty or have yellowish patches in the leaf centres, but others vigorous.
. Some of the F2s runty or have yellowish patches in the leaf centres, but others vigorous.Attachments
G
Guest
I've noticed that there has been no mention of calmag. If you're using perlite coco mix and you're growing under a sf1000 you should be adding a little calmag to your feed, about half ml per litre.
aliceklar
Active member
Cheers! Yeah, others have mentioned calmag elsewhere... I'm interested to see what difference it makes. Does the softness/hardness of the water matter? I have exceptionally hard tapwater - it already has 270 mg/litre of Calcium carbonate (CaCO3), & 4mg/litre magnesium - is that enough?? Wish they put stats on the maxicrop seaweed stuff - I assume it must contain some Ca? & Mg?, + the tomato feed contains (0.02%) MgO. but yeah, if thats not enough what sort of deficiencies would I see? I'm keen to keep this new batch of kids healthy. Could do a side by side: With Calmag / Without Calmag comparison.
PCBuds
Well-known member
Your past grows were fine.
Your only difference this time was your compost mix which probably caused PH lockout.
If your newest batch of babies growing in coco/perlite are pale they may be nutrient deficient if your solutions PH is correct going in and out.
Usually the number one supplement needed after NPK is calmag.
Here's a link to sick plants with a bunch of pictures for reference...
https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuan...-pest-troubles
Apparently calcium carbonate tends to build up in the soil/substrate because it is not readily available to the plant.
Calmag is in a different form, and is readily available to the plant.
(but you've grown good plants before with the same water, so you should only need to worry about PH and EC as exploziv mentioned.)
EDIT: I just checked my Calmag and it is calcium carbonate as the calcium source.
I dunno?
The ratios of Calcium and Magnesium are different than your tap water though.
You could add epsom salts to bring up the level of Magnesium, but don't do what I did and start messing around with everything when it was working fine.
Try to repeat what you did with your previous grows that worked well.
Overthinking stuff never worked out for me.
I killed a lot of plants. lol
Your only difference this time was your compost mix which probably caused PH lockout.
If your newest batch of babies growing in coco/perlite are pale they may be nutrient deficient if your solutions PH is correct going in and out.
Usually the number one supplement needed after NPK is calmag.
Here's a link to sick plants with a bunch of pictures for reference...
https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuan...-pest-troubles
Apparently calcium carbonate tends to build up in the soil/substrate because it is not readily available to the plant.
Calmag is in a different form, and is readily available to the plant.
(but you've grown good plants before with the same water, so you should only need to worry about PH and EC as exploziv mentioned.)
EDIT: I just checked my Calmag and it is calcium carbonate as the calcium source.
I dunno?
The ratios of Calcium and Magnesium are different than your tap water though.
You could add epsom salts to bring up the level of Magnesium, but don't do what I did and start messing around with everything when it was working fine.
Try to repeat what you did with your previous grows that worked well.
Overthinking stuff never worked out for me.
I killed a lot of plants. lol
aliceklar
Active member
Yeah, good call - gotta try to use more LITFA and keep things simple. Am on top of pH now. Interested in how this perlite/coir experiment turns out. Trying to find that formula still of what works best in this cupboard. Its nice having the indoor sunshine on dark days. And have a new batch of (different brand) compost I could also try - mostly last successful grow was using peat-free compost with about 20% perlite and watered initially just with (very hard) tapwater, amended later in the grow with (probably wildly varying) amounts of citric acid.
PCBuds
Well-known member
G
Guest
Calcium carbonate is not soluble in 7ph and above water but it is soluble in acidic water hence the build up in kettles and taps as domestic water supplies are normaly slightly alkaline. Coco coir will suck up the calcium and magnesium from ph adjusted tapwater, thats why you need to add calmag in coco coir. You need to satisfy the coco's need.
aliceklar
Active member
Thanks tinpot - I've got my pH issues under control now - the new batch of seedlings are in perlite/coir and watered at pH 5.8. I think I had lockout with the first couple of batches due to too-high pH combined with overwatering in a bad batch of compost. My tap water has 270 mg/litre of Calcium carbonate, which seems like a lot, and should be available at the lower pH. I'm wary of adding even more calcium if there is already plenty... Mg on the other hand is just 4mg/litre, plus a little from the liquid feed. Still, they are looking OK at the moment.
aliceklar
Active member
Have now culled or repotted the remaining plants from batch 1 & 2. I have a few rescue attempts just in perlite, a few repotted in coco/perlite, and a tray with compost/perlite that I'm flushing with 5.8 pH water (run-off is 6.2)
Currently using 1/4 strength tomato food (Wilko 4-5-10, w/ 0.02% mg), and same amount of maxicrop seaweed extract with every watering on the new batch. pH 5.8. Not sure if I should alternate feed and water for the coco/perlite plants, or just give the dilute feed every time.
Wondering if I should invest in some specialised nutrients for the plants in coco/perlite / pure perlite.
Am using all my willpower not to overwater the new kids - has been a couple of days now but they are not looking dry or feeling light.
Currently using 1/4 strength tomato food (Wilko 4-5-10, w/ 0.02% mg), and same amount of maxicrop seaweed extract with every watering on the new batch. pH 5.8. Not sure if I should alternate feed and water for the coco/perlite plants, or just give the dilute feed every time.
Wondering if I should invest in some specialised nutrients for the plants in coco/perlite / pure perlite.
Am using all my willpower not to overwater the new kids - has been a couple of days now but they are not looking dry or feeling light.
Attachments
aliceklar
Active member
The runoff is getting better!
You should be able to water the coco/perlite plants much more often than you could water your compost-based mix…
What’s the temperature like in there? Just curious.
Temperature in veg is between 20C - 26C, generally around 24-25C
Its taking me a while to get my head round the differences between compost and a coco/perlite mix - its essentially hydroponic as there is 0 nutrient in the substrate. Still working out an optimal watering schedule - and still wary of overdoing it (my default is to pester the plants - I am trying to apply more LITFA). I understand that the coco/perlite mix is more tolerant of frequent watering, but am also cautious about drowning the seedlings... I'm not used to watering so much that I get any runoff to speak of - but this is the preferred way with coco, right?
Once these babies are big enough to pot on, I will keep most of them in coco/perlite, but try some in the new batch of compost (keeping a careful eye on pH, obvs).
PCBuds
Well-known member
Yes, you are supposed to get about 10% runoff.
It helps wash out and prevent any salt buildup and wash away any PH changes.
