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What's your late flower nutrient regimen?

Ca++

Well-known member
I did wonder.
They just look like plants. Nothing different about them. Indica dominant, but not to any excess. If you know the normal variety, you might see the fast is different. It's only some semi-auto that's been crossed in though. So you don't see any semi traits, but it is faster. Taking a week off an 8 week, to make a 7. Or something like a 7 week green poison, down to 6. I actually found that excessively fast, and have the normal one to try now. At 6 weeks finish, some compromise is noticeable. I have not had a top shelf finish, in 6 weeks. Though a 6 week plant does get you trimming sooner. Which may help your productivity
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
I did wonder.
They just look like plants. Nothing different about them. Indica dominant, but not to any excess. If you know the normal variety, you might see the fast is different. It's only some semi-auto that's been crossed in though. So you don't see any semi traits, but it is faster. Taking a week off an 8 week, to make a 7. Or something like a 7 week green poison, down to 6. I actually found that excessively fast, and have the normal one to try now. At 6 weeks finish, some compromise is noticeable. I have not had a top shelf finish, in 6 weeks. Though a 6 week plant does get you trimming sooner. Which may help your productivity

What ever these “breeders” are doing it has made an entire market full of trash genetics.

I’m not the only one, the most popular strain in 2024 was Sour Diesel from the 90’s. One of the most popular strains was Durban Poison from the 70’s.

To put it bluntly, the lowest intelligence assholes have invaded our industry and community to poison us with pesticides and growth enhancing chemicals at the expense of our Health for the benefit of their Bank.

If there ever was a reason to have enmity in my heart it is the Poisoning of my People.

Cheers!

Here is a link to the Gov’ment giving these pieces of shit the green-light to murder us:

 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
What ever these “breeders” are doing it has made an entire market full of trash genetics.

I’m not the only one, the most popular strain in 2024 was Sour Diesel from the 90’s. One of the most popular strains was Durban Poison from the 70’s.

To put it bluntly, the lowest intelligence assholes have invaded our industry and community to poison us with pesticides and growth enhancing chemicals at the expense of our Health for the benefit of their Bank.

If there ever was a reason to have enmity in my heart it is the Poisoning of my People.

Cheers!

Here is a link to the Gov’ment giving these pieces of shit the green-light to murder us:

The growing style I use allows me to never use any pesticides.

I smoke a lot of flower and like knowing I’m not smoking petrochemicals.
 

Tsubaki30

Active member
View attachment 19175429
This is at 14 weeks I generally shoot for keeping them healthy and not letting them eat themselves how do you'alls look at chop?
You do the fade or keep them healthy?

I don’t think it’s a matter of plant health, my man..

Fading is about flower that burns with smoother and sweeter smoke that has less sharp burned taste to it.

I can see why a faded plant might look “unhealthy” as it’s yellowing bit by bit during the last 2 weeks, but it does so for a reason and that is to get a smoother smoke

Nice plant btw..

If out of that 14 weeks 10 days before harvest a proper fading, yellowing starts to happen, it doesn’t mean the plant was not healthy as it was still green on week 11. ..know what i mean. And it’s still healthy plant even thou half the lowers are yellowed out 10 days before harvest - It’s just running out of food but then senescence is already taking place , so it doesn’t eat much anyways. How it’s smokes is what’s important at this stage, so you want a good fade, yellowing at the lowers a week before chop.



The fade is supposed to really start happening when the plant is all bulked up already when all the buds do any more is swell up and grow tighter and when it’s not shooting out new pistils that much any more – You don’t want the fading to start happening during peak flower production but right after the bud building is noticeably slowing down.

Fading happens gradually in soil not over night.

When the fade is done the right way there shouldn’t be much yield missing as the plant is already into senescence 10 days before harvest and doesn’t need much energy anymore.

as a soil grower, it’s actually quite amazing how little nutrients plants seem take out of the soil during the last 2 weeks, in senescence, when they’re ripening up. They need barely nothing in the medium and still some new calyxes keep shooting out as the buds grow tighter and calyxes swell and they’re getting closer to harvest



You’re in soil of some type? In soil i just start giving them water with a low npk bud booster additive (npk are around 0,2% level each) about 30 days before harvest. Soil acts as a nutrient bank and won’t run out in a week when you stop putting more stuff in. If you have a big plant in a smaller container you can give 50% strength of low N feed the first week of the 30 days as a transition period before switching to water + low npk bud booster / super low EC level feed that is 5% of normal feed strength. Last week before chop just plain water


When i stop giving the main npk feed 30 days before chop, usually i see first lower leaves starting to fade a bit 10 days later - it will fade out a good part of the lower fan leaves during the next 10 days but now it is also in senescence and doesn’t need much out of the soil anymore either- and so the fading will also slow down the closer to harvest it gets as the plant eats less and uses less energy.


Do one plant as a fade test plant next few runs, till you get a nice fade going a week before harvest and i’m pretty sure you will notice improvement in the smoke

It would be nice to see you posting if you see noticeable loss in yield between no-fade and a faded plant but i don’t see a huge difference. never did a side by side because for me there’s a noticeable difference so i’d rather not smoke weed that didn’t get faded.

I recommend you try it.
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
The growing style I use allows me to never use any pesticides.

I smoke a lot of flower and like knowing I’m not smoking petrochemicals.

A simple box with a filter inside will prevent any dust, pollen or mold spores from entering through the intake.

It is an entirely different matter when you open the tent.
 

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Tsubaki30

Active member
First. I haven’t grown in hydro in 20+ years, so bare that in mind..

But fading a plant is just having EC drop gradually during the last 30 days and having N down in the feed while doing so as well. It’s not rocket science but it works.


The 30 day fade i do in soil..

Hydro growers can do similar thing by lowering EC, having their feed go milder and milder every week till it’s plain water during the last week

Try gradually dropping EC during the last 4 weeks/30 days with low Nitrogen feed.

I’m not sure but i think GH recommends dropping EC during the last 3 weeks but i think you should start this a week sooner and have the N quite down at this point also. A smaller EC drop at first during the first week from 100% to like 85% strenght. and then from there to 50 % feed strength during next week and then 50% to 20% a week after that and then down to plain water the last week

Just have a low N feed mix during the last 4 weeks before harvest and then gradually just dilute it to water come harvest and you should have results you can notice in the smoke, i’m quite sure.
 

dogzter

Drapetomaniac
I don’t think it’s a matter of plant health, my man..

Fading is about flower that burns with smoother and sweeter smoke that has less sharp burned taste to it.

I can see why a faded plant might look “unhealthy” as it’s yellowing bit by bit during the last 2 weeks, but it does so for a reason and that is to get a smoother smoke

Nice plant btw..

If out of that 14 weeks 10 days before harvest a proper fading, yellowing starts to happen, it doesn’t mean the plant was not healthy as it was still green on week 11. ..know what i mean. And it’s still healthy plant even thou half the lowers are yellowed out 10 days before harvest - It’s just running out of food but then senescence is already taking place , so it doesn’t eat much anyways. How it’s smokes is what’s important at this stage, so you want a good fade, yellowing at the lowers a week before chop.



The fade is supposed to really start happening when the plant is all bulked up already when all the buds do any more is swell up and grow tighter and when it’s not shooting out new pistils that much any more – You don’t want the fading to start happening during peak flower production but right after the bud building is noticeably slowing down.

Fading happens gradually in soil not over night.

When the fade is done the right way there shouldn’t be much yield missing as the plant is already into senescence 10 days before harvest and doesn’t need much energy anymore.

as a soil grower, it’s actually quite amazing how little nutrients plants seem take out of the soil during the last 2 weeks, in senescence, when they’re ripening up. They need barely nothing in the medium and still some new calyxes keep shooting out as the buds grow tighter and calyxes swell and they’re getting closer to harvest



You’re in soil of some type? In soil i just start giving them water with a low npk bud booster additive (npk are around 0,2% level each) about 30 days before harvest. Soil acts as a nutrient bank and won’t run out in a week when you stop putting more stuff in. If you have a big plant in a smaller container you can give 50% strength of low N feed the first week of the 30 days as a transition period before switching to water + low npk bud booster / super low EC level feed that is 5% of normal feed strength. Last week before chop just plain water


When i stop giving the main npk feed 30 days before chop, usually i see first lower leaves starting to fade a bit 10 days later - it will fade out a good part of the lower fan leaves during the next 10 days but now it is also in senescence and doesn’t need much out of the soil anymore either- and so the fading will also slow down the closer to harvest it gets as the plant eats less and uses less energy.


Do one plant as a fade test plant next few runs, till you get a nice fade going a week before harvest and i’m pretty sure you will notice improvement in the smoke

It would be nice to see you posting if you see noticeable loss in yield between no-fade and a faded plant but i don’t see a huge difference. never did a side by side because for me there’s a noticeable difference so i’d rather not smoke weed that didn’t get faded.

I recommend you try it.
I have done it that way which is why I do it the way I do.
Same cut has nothing to do with yield though that is Improved as well.
My experience is it won't hit full medical potential unless its healthy.
Just my opinion and I don't use any of the products you suggest just a basic salt fert and some sunshine mix#4 .
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
I don’t think it’s a matter of plant health, my man..

Fading is about flower that burns with smoother and sweeter smoke that has less sharp burned taste to it.

I can see why a faded plant might look “unhealthy” as it’s yellowing bit by bit during the last 2 weeks, but it does so for a reason and that is to get a smoother smoke

Nice plant btw..

If out of that 14 weeks 10 days before harvest a proper fading, yellowing starts to happen, it doesn’t mean the plant was not healthy as it was still green on week 11. ..know what i mean. And it’s still healthy plant even thou half the lowers are yellowed out 10 days before harvest - It’s just running out of food but then senescence is already taking place , so it doesn’t eat much anyways. How it’s smokes is what’s important at this stage, so you want a good fade, yellowing at the lowers a week before chop.



The fade is supposed to really start happening when the plant is all bulked up already when all the buds do any more is swell up and grow tighter and when it’s not shooting out new pistils that much any more – You don’t want the fading to start happening during peak flower production but right after the bud building is noticeably slowing down.

Fading happens gradually in soil not over night.

When the fade is done the right way there shouldn’t be much yield missing as the plant is already into senescence 10 days before harvest and doesn’t need much energy anymore.

as a soil grower, it’s actually quite amazing how little nutrients plants seem take out of the soil during the last 2 weeks, in senescence, when they’re ripening up. They need barely nothing in the medium and still some new calyxes keep shooting out as the buds grow tighter and calyxes swell and they’re getting closer to harvest



You’re in soil of some type? In soil i just start giving them water with a low npk bud booster additive (npk are around 0,2% level each) about 30 days before harvest. Soil acts as a nutrient bank and won’t run out in a week when you stop putting more stuff in. If you have a big plant in a smaller container you can give 50% strength of low N feed the first week of the 30 days as a transition period before switching to water + low npk bud booster / super low EC level feed that is 5% of normal feed strength. Last week before chop just plain water


When i stop giving the main npk feed 30 days before chop, usually i see first lower leaves starting to fade a bit 10 days later - it will fade out a good part of the lower fan leaves during the next 10 days but now it is also in senescence and doesn’t need much out of the soil anymore either- and so the fading will also slow down the closer to harvest it gets as the plant eats less and uses less energy.


Do one plant as a fade test plant next few runs, till you get a nice fade going a week before harvest and i’m pretty sure you will notice improvement in the smoke

It would be nice to see you posting if you see noticeable loss in yield between no-fade and a faded plant but i don’t see a huge difference. never did a side by side because for me there’s a noticeable difference so i’d rather not smoke weed that didn’t get faded.

I recommend you try it.

Every nutrient regimen I’ve seen tapers nutrients near the end of the flowering cycle. It also makes sense to decrease the nutrients as the plant uses less of them in late flowering. Once the plant stops putting on weight it will begin to ripen, increasing resin and THC. The longer the plant stays in this condition the more the cannabinoids will break down into other cannabinoids. You will have to judge for yourself when the best time to harvest will be for your plant.

I’ve seen some people abruptly drench the medium with RO water or restrict all nutrients. I wouldn’t shock the plant that way that late in the cycle with no time to recover. I would simply taper the nutrients to pure water at the end, paying attention to the PK balance and maintaining the lowest, if any, nitrogen concentration. It really depends on the grower at this point, how they treat the plant will have a large impact on quality not the yield.

One thing to note, if I was using a living soil I would never consider a flush.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
What ever these “breeders” are doing it has made an entire market full of trash genetics.

I’m not the only one, the most popular strain in 2024 was Sour Diesel from the 90’s. One of the most popular strains was Durban Poison from the 70’s.

To put it bluntly, the lowest intelligence assholes have invaded our industry and community to poison us with pesticides and growth enhancing chemicals at the expense of our Health for the benefit of their Bank.

If there ever was a reason to have enmity in my heart it is the Poisoning of my People.

Cheers!

Here is a link to the Gov’ment giving these pieces of shit the green-light to murder us:

Well I'm happy to shrug off your idea my green trash, but where is yours to have a look at.

I'm not sure where your list of top buys comes from. In a newly legal market, many people will want to play catch-up, and buy the names they heard over the years. The OG Kush, Northern Lights, Skunk#1. But I'm not seeing these on top 10 lists, compiled by active sources. Blue Dream seems to make a good showing though. Even in University grow trials, which to some degree means we will see even more. A Uni, has dialed it in for us.

I think most people agree chems are bad. I chucked some heirloom stuff that I thought might be saved with a fungicide, but just didn't fancy it. Not even a cutting, to grow out for a few generations. Which would see it become undetectable. Not everyone feels this way though. I might come over as commercial, but it's 4 plants. I have my eye on efficiency because of this, but I will also chuck crops away when I must. I do have a job.
 

Tsubaki30

Active member
I haven’t felt a noticeable drop regarding effect if the plant is faded or if it was fairly green other than the green stuff stings in the throat much more

Same thing with having lower level of N after stretch period in bloom. I don’t feel the cuts became weaker thou they started to faded little easier
I have done it that way which is why I do it the way I do.
Same cut has nothing to do with yield though that is Improved as well.
My experience is it won't hit full medical potential unless its healthy.
Just my opinion and I don't use any of the products you suggest just a basic salt fert and some sunshine mix#4 .
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
Well I'm happy to shrug off your idea my green trash, but where is yours to have a look at.

I'm not sure where your list of top buys comes from. In a newly legal market, many people will want to play catch-up, and buy the names they heard over the years. The OG Kush, Northern Lights, Skunk#1. But I'm not seeing these on top 10 lists, compiled by active sources. Blue Dream seems to make a good showing though. Even in University grow trials, which to some degree means we will see even more. A Uni, has dialed it in for us.

I think most people agree chems are bad. I chucked some heirloom stuff that I thought might be saved with a fungicide, but just didn't fancy it. Not even a cutting, to grow out for a few generations. Which would see it become undetectable. Not everyone feels this way though. I might come over as commercial, but it's 4 plants. I have my eye on efficiency because of this, but I will also chuck crops away when I must. I do have a job.

Based on the Market Response people do not like the new genetics that are being commercially produced.

The most popular genetics were cultivated in the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s. This isn’t subjective, this isn’t personal, this is reality.

We stand on the shoulders of absolute Legends of our time, we should be so lucky to be alive today. If the men that pioneered this community are to be recognized for their struggles then we should take even more care and attention to what we do moving forward.

If we sink this ship then we never deserved to be onboard in the first place, and that exactly how we will be perceived.
 

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Aristoned

Well-known member
I haven’t felt a noticeable drop regarding effect if the plant is faded or if it was fairly green other than the green stuff stings in the throat much more

Same thing with having lower level of N after stretch period in bloom. I don’t feel the cuts became weaker thou they started to faded little easier

The burn in your throat is most likely chlorophyll.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Based on the Market Response people do not like the new genetics that are being commercially produced.

The most popular genetics were cultivated in the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s. This isn’t subjective, this isn’t personal, this is reality.

We stand on the shoulders of absolute Legends of our time, we should be so lucky to be alive today. If the men that pioneered this community are to be recognized for their struggles then we should take even more care and attention to what we do moving forward.

If we sink this ship then we never deserved to be onboard in the first place, and that exactly how we will be perceived.
Good talk, but where are the numbers coming from. I'm not seeing your source. I'm seeing sources that don't agree.


Edit: First result
I knew Northern would be on there, and sour diesel makes the list. It's mostly new though. Blue Dream yet again. That is on every list, and I have seen a few
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
Good talk, but where are the numbers coming from. I'm not seeing your source. I'm seeing sources that don't agree.


Edit: First result
I knew Northern would be on there, and sour diesel makes the list. It's mostly new though. Blue Dream yet again. That is on every list, and I have seen a few

Sour Diesel - 90’s
Bluedream - 2003
Northern Lights - 70’s

Bluedream is nothing new here, all of the popular genetics are old.

This isn’t my opinion, the is the Market Response.

The Market does not want the new genetics, they are inferior. The main complaint is they are weak, the second is everything tastes the same so none of them are unique.

If you take it personally then use that to motivate you to become a Legend.

Cheers!
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
And the thicker and darker in color those sugar leaves are the more chlorophyll there is in the stuff you smoke. This is why you want to keep N low enough

Nitrogen should taper in flower, the plant will use less of it. Some will drop nitrogen all together and use only a booster, which is something I’m looking at this round. I might just run low nitrogen and next round no nitrogen. I’m not sure yet.
 

Tmik

Well-known member
I don’t think it’s a matter of plant health, my man..

Fading is about flower that burns with smoother and sweeter smoke that has less sharp burned taste to it.

I can see why a faded plant might look “unhealthy” as it’s yellowing bit by bit during the last 2 weeks, but it does so for a reason and that is to get a smoother smoke

Nice plant btw..

If out of that 14 weeks 10 days before harvest a proper fading, yellowing starts to happen, it doesn’t mean the plant was not healthy as it was still green on week 11. ..know what i mean. And it’s still healthy plant even thou half the lowers are yellowed out 10 days before harvest - It’s just running out of food but then senescence is already taking place , so it doesn’t eat much anyways. How it’s smokes is what’s important at this stage, so you want a good fade, yellowing at the lowers a week before chop.



The fade is supposed to really start happening when the plant is all bulked up already when all the buds do any more is swell up and grow tighter and when it’s not shooting out new pistils that much any more – You don’t want the fading to start happening during peak flower production but right after the bud building is noticeably slowing down.

Fading happens gradually in soil not over night.

When the fade is done the right way there shouldn’t be much yield missing as the plant is already into senescence 10 days before harvest and doesn’t need much energy anymore.

as a soil grower, it’s actually quite amazing how little nutrients plants seem take out of the soil during the last 2 weeks, in senescence, when they’re ripening up. They need barely nothing in the medium and still some new calyxes keep shooting out as the buds grow tighter and calyxes swell and they’re getting closer to harvest



You’re in soil of some type? In soil i just start giving them water with a low npk bud booster additive (npk are around 0,2% level each) about 30 days before harvest. Soil acts as a nutrient bank and won’t run out in a week when you stop putting more stuff in. If you have a big plant in a smaller container you can give 50% strength of low N feed the first week of the 30 days as a transition period before switching to water + low npk bud booster / super low EC level feed that is 5% of normal feed strength. Last week before chop just plain water


When i stop giving the main npk feed 30 days before chop, usually i see first lower leaves starting to fade a bit 10 days later - it will fade out a good part of the lower fan leaves during the next 10 days but now it is also in senescence and doesn’t need much out of the soil anymore either- and so the fading will also slow down the closer to harvest it gets as the plant eats less and uses less energy.


Do one plant as a fade test plant next few runs, till you get a nice fade going a week before harvest and i’m pretty sure you will notice improvement in the smoke

It would be nice to see you posting if you see noticeable loss in yield between no-fade and a faded plant but i don’t see a huge difference. never did a side by side because for me there’s a noticeable difference so i’d rather not smoke weed that didn’t get faded.

I recommend you try it.

100% agree. I use soil and used to feed right up to the end. Now I stop 3-4 weeks early and push for a good fade for smoother smoke.
 
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Tsubaki30

Active member
If you run out of N before peak bud production - yellowing lower growth, yield will suffer

It's good to have nice level of N in early bloom, the stretch period, the first two weeks but after that N can start gradually coming down during the next two weeks and then have a bigger drop around mid bloom and gradually going down to really low level towards the end

P level rising as N level goes down and K maintaines on a good level thru out


Nitrogen should taper in flower, the plant will use less of it. Some will drop nitrogen all together and use only a booster, which is something I’m looking at this round. I might just run low nitrogen and next round no nitrogen. I’m not sure yet.
 

Aristoned

Well-known member
If you run out of N before peak bud production - yellowing lower growth, yield will suffer

It's good to have nice level of N in early bloom, the stretch period, the first two weeks but after that N can start gradually coming down during the next two weeks and then have a bigger drop around mid bloom and gradually going down to really low level towards the end

P level rising as N level goes down and K maintaines on a good level thru out

Taper means to lessen or use less of something.
 

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