What's your late flower nutrient regimen?

[Aristoned]

Yes i know. I meant that you shouldn’t drop N out of your bloom feed completely as you were thinking in your post, rather taper it down after first few weeks of 12/12

Yes, taper the nitrogen and drop it all together. It is something I’ve been wanting to try. Most nutrient feeds come as a “mixed-bag” of sorts, without having the nitrogen separate from the phosphorus and potassium I won’t be able to drop the nitrogen.

My plants have always had a balanced feed to the end, then water to finish the last week or so depending. Colour change was dependent on genetics and conditions not feeding.

I’m not to the point where I can mix my own batch of chemicals for a feed, I’m having to rely and the “tried and tested” method.

 

[Tsubaki30]

GH has late bloom fert without N in it, only P and K ..i haven't used it myself thou
GH FloraPro Late Bloom


- One way to cut N level of a single-part bloom fert is to use a PK 13/14 product to replace some of the N rich fert

Yes, taper the nitrogen and drop it all together. It is something I’ve been wanting to try. Most nutrient feeds come as a “mixed-bag” of sorts, without having the nitrogen separate from the phosphorus and potassium I won’t be able to drop the nitrogen.

My plants have always had a balanced feed to the end, then water to finish the last week or so depending. Colour change was dependent on genetics and conditions not feeding.

I’m not to the point where I can mix my own batch of chemicals for a feed, I’m having to rely and the “tried and tested” method.

 

[xtsho]

If you feed properly from the beginning you don't need to cut anything out. All you need to do is lower the amount towards the end.

Many of the cannabis specific nutrients have feed charts that are overfeeding your plants which is why they also have products to flush out what the excess they have people feeding.

N is required during flowering and should not be cut out completely. Another thing is excessive use of "Bloom" products which can lead to overfed, unhealthy plants, and raspy tasting weed.

Balance from beginning to end leads to the healthiest plants and best results.

It's a simple task to feed plants. Where people get off track is falling for all the marketing nonsense that leads them to use a bunch of products where they're mixing this and that following some ridiculously complicated feed chart like they're conducting a science experiment.

I've went down that road years ago and it took me one grow to realize what a waste of time it was. I went to the simplest methods using inexpensive fertilizer and have had excellent results without any issues since.

 

[Aristoned]

GH has late bloom fert without N in it, only P and K ..i haven't used it myself thou
GH FloraPro Late Bloom


- One way to cut N level of a single-part bloom fert is to use a PK 13/14 product to replace some of the N rich fert

I found this:

The Humboldt go-to is minimum $50 for 4 lb.

I was able to find something more cost-efficient since I’m starting up from ground zero.

I’d hate to spend twice what I spent on my entire nutrient package on just booster. At least with this option the $20 I spent on my nutrients with be spread across this booster. So I’d say I’d end up spending about $50 for a complete nutrient package and then the pH balance when I start my hydroponics testing.

Exciting times!

 

[Tsubaki30]

I found this:


View attachment 19177109

That’s maybe little K heavy on it’s own and low on P

You might see P deficiency in peak bloom if you use only that after the early stretch weeks; purple colors on leaves, esp if you run in coco when P is that low

That seems to be a booster product that you’re supposed to use along with the regular bloom fert, so you probably can make your own mixes with them



How much P does your Bloom fert have?..think i saw your photo of the packing earlier

If it’s high with P then you could replace part of it with this Booster product to get a lower nitrogen level. If you mix the Bloom fert + Booster in 1:1 ratio then will it bring the P and K numbers more level, i mean

Just make sure the EC stays on the right level when you experiment with different mixes



The FloraPro Late Bloom has NPK numbers of 0-24-26 so it’s more balanced PK numbers, which is what i do for a low N bloom mix – P and K fairly level ..but i have some N going in still not perfect zero like the FloraPro Late

 

[Aristoned]

Sound advice. The plant does need more phosphorus than potassium.

 

[Ttystikk]

Sound advice. The plant does need more phosphorus than potassium.

No, it's the other way round.

 

[Tsubaki30]

No, it's the other way round.

Yes. K is always higher except in peak to late bloom P rises closer to K in labelled NPK numbers
When we talk about ppm the actual available P % is actually lower, so it's always lower than K

 

[Tsubaki30]

I just noticed you edited your post and added few products
This last one would work better as one-part late bloom fert ..better than the first one that was zero N, low P and high K

I was able to find something more cost-efficient since I’m starting up from ground zero.

View attachment 19177236

 

[Ca++]

The bud explosion looks like a guessing game from the past. It's MPK with a lot of K added, then Mg because of the pressure from that excess K. An element that consistently does nothing. It's needed, but not at high levels, and boosting it serves no purpose, as it just needs to be right. Boosting it beyond that, just has negative effects. We are not growing flowers of that type.

The third product pictured is also MKP based. It seems, as an additive used at a time you want to lower N, to be ineffective. Like the first product, the stuff added to the MKP isn't useful.

Product number 2, is the MKP without anybody messing about with it. It should be the cheapest option, by a long way. If it's not, you are paying for packaging. Elementally the P and K are about equal.

Keep in mind, all these are P boosters, and most feeds already have too much. All it's good for, is lowering your base, then putting the P back. Though your base feed many vary.

That last product has organic elements. In something like DWC, I would avoid that.

 

[Ttystikk]

The bud explosion looks like a guessing game from the past. It's MPK with a lot of K added, then Mg because of the pressure from that excess K. An element that consistently does nothing. It's needed, but not at high levels, and boosting it serves no purpose, as it just needs to be right. Boosting it beyond that, just has negative effects. We are not growing flowers of that type.

The third product pictured is also MKP based. It seems, as an additive used at a time you want to lower N, to be ineffective. Like the first product, the stuff added to the MKP isn't useful.

Product number 2, is the MKP without anybody messing about with it. It should be the cheapest option, by a long way. If it's not, you are paying for packaging. Elementally the P and K are about equal.

Keep in mind, all these are P boosters, and most feeds already have too much. All it's good for, is lowering your base, then putting the P back. Though your base feed many vary.

That last product has organic elements. In something like DWC, I would avoid that.

Many years ago I bought a 25# bag of MKP. It turned out to be a lifetime supply because I still have the vast majority of it!

 

[Ca++]

25kg makes about 100L of PK (with 13P like Canna) but probably costs the same as 3.
The pricing of small packs, or stock solutions, is a bit steep when you can buy bulk. As you say, you think you ordered a couple of bottles, judging by the price. Then a tanker turns up.

I paid about a tenner to make 3 bottles of K. They are 18 each to buy.

With MKP and Potassium Citrate on the shelf, you can make any PK ratio you are every likely to see. While retaining the flexibility to boost P and K differently.

 

[Tsubaki30]

haha
I'd have more trouble of having a 25kg bag in my apartment than having a 500ml bottle of PK 13/14 around. A bottle that will also last for years as i only use it like 2ml-5ml per grow

 

[Ca++]

You don't have to buy 25kg. A bottle of PK might have 250g in it, and 250g or a Kg costs less than a bottle. Have a think about it if you ever run out. It's cheaper and fits through the letter box. With a less obvious supplier than bobs hydro as a return address.

 

[Ca++]

Monopotassium phosphate MKP 0-52-34 2 Lb WATER SOLUBLE | eBay

It's the go-to choice for both amateur gardeners and experienced horticulturists. Improves Nutrient Uptake: By using Monopotassium Phosphate Fertilizer, you can enhance the absorption of other essential nutrients like nitrogen, magnesium, and calcium, further optimizing plant health.

www.ebay.com

Short Kilo there, for $15. So maybe $4 a bottle

 

[dogzter]

Damn I buy a 25# bag of Jacks pro 20-20-20 for like $75 and that lasts about a hear and a half.
I don't add anything else except tap water and sunshinemix #4.
Use at a rate of 3-3-3 every watering u til the last two weeks of ripening then just water.