What's your late flower nutrient regimen?

[LndRcLvr]

This is an interesting thread.

Does an excess of nitrogen make buds less tight and more leafy? I just chopped this plant and its drying. It seems very leafy. The plant was definitely overfed nitrogen towards the middle of its life as it was dark green and clawing also I never saw yellow leaves at the end of life. I e. no fade

Would less nitrogen and more potassium have reduced leaves and increased flowers? I assume genetics have something to say.

 

[Tsubaki30]

leafiness is genetic essentially but leaves do grow thicker and darker green with high N feed.

People seem to grow tight looking buds with higher N feed that i would use, but over kill N causes stress and lock outs so much in bad cases that it may stun growth and affect bud development.

Sativa buds may appear more fluffy cause with high nitrogen feed they keep stretching longer and seem to flower for ages


When N is too strong in the feed it may push the plant to show intersex traits. so too much N can cause plenty of stress for the plant



..and yea looking at your photo, the color of stem and leaves, the N was a bit rich for that plant. did it affect how the bud developed i can’t say

What is it?

This is an interesting thread.

Does an excess of nitrogen make buds less tight and more leafy? I just chopped this plant and its drying. It seems very leafy. The plant was definitely overfed nitrogen towards the middle of its life as it was dark green and clawing also I never saw yellow leaves at the end of life. I e. no fade

Would less nitrogen and more potassium have reduced leaves and increased flowers? I assume genetics have something to say.

View attachment 19167079

 

[Chemdoge]

There shouldn’t be spotty leaves of necrotic, brown leaf tips

This is the statement that got me the easiest job I've ever had: Growing shitty weed. I've documented every shade of brown known to the white man.

What about sativas that go 14-16 weeks? A lot of people say they have problems that are hard to diagnose/fix near the end before it finishes.

Aside from weird heavy metal accumulations (my mold resistant sativa collects so much copper you can tie it in a knot 12 weeks into flower), the problems people have with Sativa are from shit fertilizers like Rootz Broganic Guano Bombo or whatever the hot youtube flavor is, which is usually nothing but dirty phosphorus and magnesium in sewer water essentially.

Probably why so many organic fertilizers are low on K, they are getting it from cheap ass langbenite. If you see langbenite as an ingredient, run. 11% magnesium to get 22% K?

I'd say magnesium is responsible for most cases of "nute burn". The white margin you see on peoples seedlings. That's why people are having to flush their soil to pop a bean, the magnesium. Nothing else. Avoid dolomite, avoid calmag. You probably have too much magnesium.

The internet will, 100% of the time, diagnose a magnesium toxicity as magnesium deficiency, or an anonymous "burn" that has you ditching NPK, dimming your lights, and adding calmag when all you needed was calcium, and everything else but magnesium.

 

[Hiddenjems]

Weeks 5 and 6 are peak production weeks. Plants are mainly cellulose, formed from sugar, made by the chlorophyll.
Here it is

Lots of H C O around that, from the air and water. Surrounding N, and Mg.
There is a school of thought that we reduce N and increase P. P is an energy regulator, involved with moving it around. With N deficient plants, adding more P is a bit lost. It's not logical. We need the N to build the green, that makes the sugar, or nothing works. To various degree's.
N can be dropped during stretch as part of the crop steering process. It speeds along the flowering cycle, as N availability is used as a gauge of remaining soil fertility. After stretch, there should be no need to drop it further, if you follow that path. Peters canna feed switches back to grow food after stretch.
I can't open the link, but I think it's this one https://www.jacksnutrients.com/cannabis-hemp-schedules

I don't reduce N at peak production time. Nor do I increase it much.
I think most feed charts are peaking the EC at 5-6 weeks, but I will hang around to see if I'm corrected.

I follow the plants as much as I can, but sometimes I let stuff I read interfere with that. I'm hydro, and of late, it's been a fairly steady approach. A couple of hundred ppm N, that will slow the plants if dropped to 160, which is about where signs are present. Lots of DWC research grows are 180-200N and I will go as high as 250N in veg.

Adenosine triphosphate breaking down into adenosine biphosphate is the energy machine in all cells. However, even a large mammal like humans don’t need a ton of phosphate.

Creatine mono hydrate helps humans turn the adp back into atp. I’ve wondered if it worked in plants.

 

[Hiddenjems]

leafiness is genetic essentially but leaves do grow thicker and darker green with high N feed.

People seem to grow tight looking buds with higher N feed that i would use, but over kill N causes stress and lock outs so much in bad cases that it may stun growth and affect bud development.

Sativa buds may appear more fluffy cause with high nitrogen feed they keep stretching longer and seem to flower for ages


When N is too strong in the feed it may push the plant to show intersex traits. so too much N can cause plenty of stress for the plant



..and yea looking at your photo, the color of stem and leaves, the N was a bit rich for that plant. did it affect how the bud developed i can’t say

What is it?

I’ve grown excellent plants running the same ratios and ec all through flower. Plants mostly uptake what they need. In a drain to Rez setup you can test and see what they’re up taking and what they pass on.

 

[Tsubaki30]

Plants mostly uptake what they need.

Yea you see that mentioned a lot but plants wouldn’t get over fed if they’d use only what they’d need out of the feed so that just isn’t the case. I’d say you can force feed your plant way more than it needs

 

[Hiddenjems]

Yea you see that mentioned a lot but plants wouldn’t get over fed if they’d use only what they’d need out of the feed so that just isn’t the case. I’d say you can force feed your plant way more than it needs

It’s not really “over feeding” it’s a difference in solution strength at the roots vs in the cells that causes a disruption normal osmotic pressure.

It’s caused by over feeding, but that’s not what’s happening. An overly strong solution of anything in the root zone will cause leaf burn due to water being sucked out of the plant.

 

[Tsubaki30]

It’s not really “over feeding” it’s a difference in solution strength at the roots vs in the cells that causes a disruption normal osmotic pressure.

It’s caused by over feeding, but that’s not what’s happening. An overly strong solution of anything in the root zone will cause leaf burn due to water being sucked out of the plant.

I think you can over feed the plant very easily. ..what i call over feeding, that is already noticeable in the bud when you burn it

Even extra 0,2-0,3ml per Liter of water of the common organic nute lines available in EU, plagron, biobizz etc.... makes the difference whether a plant is underfed or what i think is already mildly over fed, esp if the extra amount is more N rich food

So to me the nute mix doesn’t even have to be that much over the limit when it’s already noticeable in the smoke, how smooth it is.

 

[Hiddenjems]

I think you can over feed the plant very easily. ..what i call over feeding, that is already noticeable in the bud when you burn it

Even extra 0,2-0,3ml per Liter of water of the common organic nute lines available in EU, plagron, biobizz etc.... makes the difference whether a plant is underfed or what i think is already mildly over fed, esp if the extra amount is more N rich food

So to me the nute mix doesn’t even have to be that much over the limit when it’s already noticeable in the smoke, how smooth it is.

It’s not the excess nutrients doing the damage directly. It’s the cells not being able to transpire water properly due to nutrient solution strength being to strong. Plants move water through osmotic pressure. When the roots are exposed to a strong enough solution the process works backwards. The leaf edges dry and die.

The plants will also have a wilted look with an over strong nutrient solution.

Feeding plants salts that are in a soil medium is the easiest way to burn them up. They have the wrong root structure for salts, and the medium is to dry.

 

[Tsubaki30]

It’s not the excess nutrients doing the damage directly. It’s the cells not being able to transpire water properly due to nutrient solution strength being to strong. Plants move water through osmotic pressure. When the roots are exposed to a strong enough solution the process works backwards. The leaf edges dry and die.

The plants will also have a wilted look with an over strong nutrient solution.

Feeding plants salts that are in a soil medium is the easiest way to burn them up. They have the wrong root structure for salts, and the medium is to dry.

It’s not just about tip burn and brown tissue..

You can easily see even mild over feeding looking at leaf color and how thick the leaves are

Plants do not wilt when they’re, what i call mildly over fed. They’re just too dark green in color already even if the tip isn’t burned yet.

..and the same goes for coco and all kinds of hydro grown plants not just plants in soil. If the leaves are too thick and super dark in color the N feed was too strong whether the tip burns or not.

 

[Nutty sKunK]

Late flower? Focus on K drop N/P

Early Flower? focus on P/N then K

Veg? Focus on N/P then K


Easy way to remember it. Npk, nPk, npK

 

[Ca++]

This is an interesting thread.

Does an excess of nitrogen make buds less tight and more leafy? I just chopped this plant and its drying. It seems very leafy. The plant was definitely overfed nitrogen towards the middle of its life as it was dark green and clawing also I never saw yellow leaves at the end of life. I e. no fade

Would less nitrogen and more potassium have reduced leaves and increased flowers? I assume genetics have something to say.

View attachment 19167079

Is that organic?

 

[Dime]

.

 

[Tomatoesonly]

.

Is the General Hydroponics?

 

[Dime]

Is the General Hydroponics?

Yes

 

[Tomatoesonly]

Yes

There's no way those FLower Bloom numbers can be accurate. That is insane. Even on their own site aggressive Bloom is 9.5
GH 3 part chart

 

[Dime]

There's no way those FLower Bloom numbers can be accurate. That is insane. Even on their own site aggressive Bloom is 9.5

Ignore it then

 

[Tomatoesonly]

Ignore it then

I will. I somewhat expect people who reply to have a grasp of what they are posting but you're just throwing around nonsense and if anyone wonders what is going on you retreat into your corner.

 

[Dime]

This is for imp gal and optimum conditions, use a pen if needed or see stress

 

[Hiddenjems]

It’s not just about tip burn and brown tissue..

You can easily see even mild over feeding looking at leaf color and how thick the leaves are

Plants do not wilt when they’re, what i call mildly over fed. They’re just too dark green in color already even if the tip isn’t burned yet.

..and the same goes for coco and all kinds of hydro grown plants not just plants in soil. If the leaves are too thick and super dark in color the N feed was too strong whether the tip burns or not.

Yeah, after the dark green you can get the “Eagle beak” turned down tips.