What's your late flower nutrient regimen?

[Tomatoesonly]

Looking at being a bit more on the ball with my late nutrient schedule, but I'm not sure what to start cutting back on.
I'm on Day 50 of 70
I know most dip the nitrogen quite a bit. K starts getting the axe but P is still a bro science area.
What about the secondaries and micro nutrients?

The base is Masterblend trio at 2.4/1.5/2.4 with some Si in there.
The more ppm details you have the better.

 

[Creeperpark]

Looking at being a bit more on the ball with my late nutrient schedule, but I'm not sure what to start cutting back on.
I'm on Day 50 of 70
I know most dip the nitrogen quite a bit. K starts getting the axe but P is still a bro science area.
What about the secondaries and micro nutrients?

The base is Masterblend trio at 2.4/1.5/2.4 with some Si in there.
The more ppm details you have the better.

Keep your EC steady and use micro until almost the end. One can take a break the last few days with plain water. No need for nutirent shock.

 

[Hiddenjems]

Looking at being a bit more on the ball with my late nutrient schedule, but I'm not sure what to start cutting back on.
I'm on Day 50 of 70
I know most dip the nitrogen quite a bit. K starts getting the axe but P is still a bro science area.
What about the secondaries and micro nutrients?

The base is Masterblend trio at 2.4/1.5/2.4 with some Si in there.
The more ppm details you have the better.

I get the same results with just lowering ec, lowering n and raising pk, and doing nothing different.

If you let the plants finish completely they stop up taking nutes the last 7-10 days anyway.

 

[sturgeongeneral]

I usually start with high ec like 3.0 for the first 4 to 5 weeks while steadily tapering down until I'm 1.0 or less by the time I'm 60 70 days in. They start senescence all on their own

 

[Ca++]

I presume you watch the lower leaves as a rudimentary Nitrogen gauge. And as such, have been meeting their needs though flower. They will of stopped stacking a couple of weeks ago, and have just been fattening up since. In perhaps a week, if they are still a nice green at the lower leaves, you could try an N reduction. They will be starting to slow then. Presuming you have some lower leaves left, when you lower N rate, perhaps nothing happens. Proving it needed doing. Or perhaps you lower N, and the lower leaves slowly yellow. That means you lowered to below the plants needs, but it's okay, it has stores to top up with. Or, you reduce N, and the bottom leaves are gone the same day. That is called stopping the N. I'm just talking a 20% increment. The response to this won't be strong, but them bottom leaves will talk to you. You can expect to drop 20% more by the last week, but let the state of the green reservoirs guide you. You would like to reduce it, but not if it causes a supply problem.

I don't think P tastes good, or has much to do with yields later on. It's very mobile, and they have stored lots for seed production that never happened. I let it drop, but remain cautious.

K has a function that doesn't want reducing. The goal isn't ill plants. It's healthy to the end. Maximising potential.

Of the small stuff, Manganese signs are quite common, when people do take a plant to it's death. There is a school of thought (with products available) that increasing it towards the end is helpful.


Does your feed use Calnit? That could make life easier

 

[RegularRebel]

I presume you watch the lower leaves as a rudimentary Nitrogen gauge. And as such, have been meeting their needs though flower. They will of stopped stacking a couple of weeks ago, and have just been fattening up since. In perhaps a week, if they are still a nice green at the lower leaves, you could try an N reduction. They will be starting to slow then. Presuming you have some lower leaves left, when you lower N rate, perhaps nothing happens. Proving it needed doing. Or perhaps you lower N, and the lower leaves slowly yellow. That means you lowered to below the plants needs, but it's okay, it has stores to top up with. Or, you reduce N, and the bottom leaves are gone the same day. That is called stopping the N. I'm just talking a 20% increment. The response to this won't be strong, but them bottom leaves will talk to you. You can expect to drop 20% more by the last week, but let the state of the green reservoirs guide you. You would like to reduce it, but not if it causes a supply problem.

I don't think P tastes good, or has much to do with yields later on. It's very mobile, and they have stored lots for seed production that never happened. I let it drop, but remain cautious.

K has a function that doesn't want reducing. The goal isn't ill plants. It's healthy to the end. Maximising potential.

Of the small stuff, Manganese signs are quite common, when people do take a plant to it's death. There is a school of thought (with products available) that increasing it towards the end is helpful.


Does your feed use Calnit? That could make life easier

What about sativas that go 14-16 weeks? A lot of people say they have problems that are hard to diagnose/fix near the end before it finishes. Is there something about this added time that needs an added treatment? Most nutrient schedules end way before that because most people grow varieties tailored to the grower who is in a rush. If we have a plant that finishes in 16 weeks or so, the nutrient schedule must be stretched, but it seems it still somehow misses the needs of these longer flowering, end user varieties.

 

[spacetraveller]

What about sativas that go 14-16 weeks? A lot of people say they have problems that are hard to diagnose/fix near the end before it finishes. Is there something about this added time that needs an added treatment? Most nutrient schedules end way before that because most people grow varieties tailored to the grower who is in a rush. If we have a plant that finishes in 16 weeks or so, the nutrient schedule must be stretched, but it seems it still somehow misses the needs of these longer flowering, end user varieties. View attachment 19164446

My longflowering sativa take around 20 weeks. Grow nuets until end of main stretch which can be 8 weeks or more, then flower nuets (less n) until end.
Ec for low nuets sativa start around .4 ramping up to end of stretch of 1.0
Most sativa will have well developed bud sites by now, next 8/10 weeks is filling in volume, and reflowerings. Once reflowerings have good volume, reduce nuets by 1/3 for the final ripening.
Flowering nuets start at 1.0 and are ramped up to about 1.2, then ramped down to about .8 until end.
I don't add extra PK during flowering other than what is supplied in the premix nuets I buy.
Peace

 

[Ca++]

I can't answer the Sat question properly. I have done a few, but was an unwilling participant. I don't see Sat feeds on the market, and so think the normal schedule stretched out is correct. I have had problems at the end, but I think I was the problem. I was waiting in vein for the buds to fatten into indica like one's. Something buddy at least. Not a bag of stringy bits. This delay in chopping, took me weeks past the end of stretch. Where new root growth can still be vigorous. Into the death weeks, where you are financially dying, as waiting longer isn't actually profitable. Typically it's now that the manganese signs are seen. People are trying to kill their plants off by stopping the food, but it's Mn that's showing first. A deficiency not really seen at other times. It's a clue that the importance of Mn could be increasing, or that dying plants are not good at taking it. It is a part of finishing feeds though. Which is about all I know of finishing feeds. I think they might be a product we don't need. Just before the flushing product we don't need. I think canna's trace mix (mono range) has elevated Mn, and might be worth looking at. I have, but with fast plants anyway, it was inconclusive.
It's worth noting, that the instructions on the trace mix, supply the tank with a lot more trace than their feeds do. Feeds are just a base, and as such, are pretty minimal. Allowing us to add things as we choose. They're sufficient. They don't contain too much of something you can't remove. They may benefit from addition though. With Sats being treated as they are, the trace is probably a good addition. To combat the fact people use reduced base strength. Which didn't have much trace to begin with.

I can only add up the pieces. I don't grow Sats.

 

[Tsubaki30]

Typically it's now that the manganese signs are seen. People are trying to kill their plants off by stopping the food, but it's Mn that's showing first. A deficiency not really seen at other times.

Hi.

I had to look up Manganese deficiency signs and i can’t see that happening when people cut their feed in later part of bloom. Not in soil of cocos anyways. I’m not a hydro guy so i don’t know about that.

Manganese Deficiency in Cannabis: Signs and Solutions - RQS Blog

Have you heard of manganese? Many weed growers don't even know this nutrient exists, but it's key to growing healthy and productive cannabis plants.

www.royalqueenseeds.com

Maybe you are seeing signs of over watering necrosis as Mn deficiency? it’s easier to over water plants in late bloom because plants start drinking less in the later part of bloom cycle

When late bloom fade is done the right way and the plant doesn’t get over watered the leaves just go yellow and dry out. There shouldn’t be spotty leaves of necrotic, brown leaf tips

 

[linde]

Last 10 days straight water. Full strength until then.

 

[Ca++]

Hi.

I had to look up Manganese deficiency signs and i can’t see that happening when people cut their feed in later part of bloom. Not in soil of cocos anyways. I’m not a hydro guy so i don’t know about that.

Manganese Deficiency in Cannabis: Signs and Solutions - RQS Blog

Have you heard of manganese? Many weed growers don't even know this nutrient exists, but it's key to growing healthy and productive cannabis plants.

www.royalqueenseeds.com

Maybe you are seeing signs of over watering necrosis as Mn deficiency? it’s easier to over water plants in late bloom because plants start drinking less in the later part of bloom cycle

When late bloom fade is done the right way and the plant doesn’t get over watered the leaves just go yellow and dry out. There shouldn’t be spotty leaves of necrotic, brown leaf tips

This is the classic pic

The black spots in your link, are Mn when the pH is.. high I think. It's no longer in a suitable form.
You only really see this in plants being dragged out. Perhaps accumulation of Ca in hard water areas plays a part. I have not been involved.


I don't subscribe to fading methods, in order to comment on any being the right way. That doesn't really sound right to me. As if you are controlling the fade. I know many people do spend time not giving there plants enough food, but It's not for me. Blind tests of healthy plants, showed people can't tell if it's flushed or not. I don't feel this was plants taken to the very end though. Where root systems are failing, and senescence is setting in naturally. I never reach that time, but would have to reduce feed, as the plants just not using it.

This is only a 10 week plant, so most of the Sat based chatter is a bit lost on this thread. The base is fairly high N, so is certainly a focus point. If nothing is done, it will likely become excessive. So watching the bottom leaves for excess green is important. Seeing them use N from them leaves would be nice in the final week. So you know it's not overly abundant.

This is obviously just my opinion. Some like a flush. Some reduce feed below requirements. Some reduce feed to track requirements. Some just don't bother. I don't think a 10 week plant has special needs though. Maybe 16 week plants need different care though. Reduced EC generally. As they take forever to not do much, there is no need to feed them like an indica on a rapid weight gain diet.

 

[Tsubaki30]

This is the classic pic

It doesn’t look like that for me as a soil grower. For me what happens is that the leaves just fade to yellow and then dry out. no spots or necrosis

Soil as the grow medium, it’s not like the food stored in it disappears over night when you stop feeding the plant. During the last weeks plants start feeding less anyways, when they are getting closer to end of the bloom cycle. So i don’t see they will be missing much when the soil is starts to run empty of food close to harvest.

 

[dogzter]

Sunshine mix#4 and jacks pro at 1\2 tsp per gallon water.
Keeping them healthy all the way through is the goal doesn't matter how that happens.

 

[NathanielBrooks32]

Looking at being a bit more on the ball with my late nutrient schedule, but I'm not sure what to start cutting back on.
I'm on Day 50 of 70
I know most dip the nitrogen quite a bit. K starts getting the axe but P is still a bro science area.
What about the secondaries and micro nutrients?

The base is Masterblend trio at 2.4/1.5/2.4 with some Si in there.
The more ppm details you have the better.

At Day 50 of 70, start cutting back nitrogen (drop N to ~1.0-1.2) while keeping P and K steady or slightly increasing K. Secondaries and micros should stay balanced to avoid deficiencies. If runoff PPM is high, gradually reduce overall feed to prep for flush in the final weeks. If you see dark green leaves or clawing, cut N further. Otherwise, keep an eye on trichomes for harvest timing. What’s your current runoff PPM?

 

[Ca++]

Sometimes the last week is a good time to use old food. Perhaps for a substrate you no longer use. Most can be straightened out, if you understand the numbers.

This is purely cost saving, and dealing with a disposal problem.

 

[Ca++]

i don’t see they will be missing much when the soil is starts to run empty of food close to harvest.

The yellowing of leaves is a balancing act. Its marginally better for the plant if it can get it's food without relocating it from the leaves. We make them do it though, as it's guides us walking that line. A bit of yellowing, tells us we are not over feeding the N. It says it needs what we give, and some from it's own stocks. If we cut the N so much leaves are dropping, then just where on the plant this happens is important. If it's upper leaves are all that's left, and being used, then you are in N deficit. The plants are not being all they want to be.

It's a touchy subject. Where some growers want to starve a plant to end it, and others want them healthy until the end.
We are in different camps, but that's just an observation.
Use a capital 'I' when naming yourself. You're worth it (That's not a dig, as both are correct)

 

[Tsubaki30]

The yellowing of leaves is a balancing act. Its marginally better for the plant if it can get it's food without relocating it from the leaves. We make them do it though, as it's guides us walking that line. A bit of yellowing, tells us we are not over feeding the N. It says it needs what we give, and some from it's own stocks. If we cut the N so much leaves are dropping, then just where on the plant this happens is important. If it's upper leaves are all that's left, and being used, then you are in N deficit. The plants are not being all they want to be.

It's a touchy subject. Where some growers want to starve a plant to end it, and others want them healthy until the end.
We are in different camps, but that's just an observation.
Use a capital 'I' when naming yourself. You're worth it (That's not a dig, as both are correct)

Yes, you definitely don’t want to starve the plant of nitrogen too early and want there to be plenty of it for the first 3 to 4 weeks till the strech is over and the plant is focusing on building buds. I don’t want to see those lower leaves start loosing color too early as yield may suffer. But all ready starting week 5 i want to bring down that N a little bit more to and the drop it to fairly low level starting week 6

 

[Tsubaki30]

At Day 50 of 70, start cutting back nitrogen (drop N to ~1.0-1.2) while keeping P and K steady or slightly increasing K. Secondaries and micros should stay balanced to avoid deficiencies. If runoff PPM is high, gradually reduce overall feed to prep for flush in the final weeks. If you see dark green leaves or clawing, cut N further. Otherwise, keep an eye on trichomes for harvest timing. What’s your current runoff PPM?

You might find you can gradually start bringing down the nitrogen starting even 10 days earlier before you make that bigger drop off as you’re doing atm. Maybe mess about with a little transition period for that 10 days where you start to bring the N down a bit by bit every 3-4 days, if that is possible with the products that you’re using i mean

You could find little extra smoothness in the finished bud by playing around with the N drop off little sooner than you have done before

 

[Ca++]

Yes, you definitely don’t want to starve the plant of nitrogen too early and want there to be plenty of it for the first 3 to 4 weeks till the strech is over and the plant is focusing on building buds. I don’t want to see those lower leaves start loosing color too early as yield may suffer. But all ready starting week 5 i want to bring down that N a little bit more to and the drop it to fairly low level starting week 6

Weeks 5 and 6 are peak production weeks. Plants are mainly cellulose, formed from sugar, made by the chlorophyll.
Here it is

Lots of H C O around that, from the air and water. Surrounding N, and Mg.
There is a school of thought that we reduce N and increase P. P is an energy regulator, involved with moving it around. With N deficient plants, adding more P is a bit lost. It's not logical. We need the N to build the green, that makes the sugar, or nothing works. To various degree's.
N can be dropped during stretch as part of the crop steering process. It speeds along the flowering cycle, as N availability is used as a gauge of remaining soil fertility. After stretch, there should be no need to drop it further, if you follow that path. Peters canna feed switches back to grow food after stretch.
I can't open the link, but I think it's this one https://www.jacksnutrients.com/cannabis-hemp-schedules

I don't reduce N at peak production time. Nor do I increase it much.
I think most feed charts are peaking the EC at 5-6 weeks, but I will hang around to see if I'm corrected.

I follow the plants as much as I can, but sometimes I let stuff I read interfere with that. I'm hydro, and of late, it's been a fairly steady approach. A couple of hundred ppm N, that will slow the plants if dropped to 160, which is about where signs are present. Lots of DWC research grows are 180-200N and I will go as high as 250N in veg.

 

[Tsubaki30]

I’m using soil + coco mix or just soil w/o coco and these act as storage for food that you can load accordingly as the bloom phases go on

In hydro it works a bit differently i’m sure as you have no medium to act as a buffer and food storage

In soil, when i start giving less N relative to P and K at the start of week 5 it will still get extra N from the stuff i loaded into the soil week before that and so on ..so the cut off isn’t very immediate and the nutrient content of the soil changes gradually..

Yes you need N for bud building. I don’t want to see lower leaves starting to yellow during week 6 out of 70 days of bloom but i want to see some of that starting to happen by the end of week 8 because by that time the plant isn’t using much food anymore as senescence is starting to move in

Weeks 5 and 6 are peak production weeks. Plants are mainly cellulose, formed from sugar, made by the chlorophyll.
Here it is

Lots of H C O around that, from the air and water. Surrounding N, and Mg.
There is a school of thought that we reduce N and increase P. P is an energy regulator, involved with moving it around. With N deficient plants, adding more P is a bit lost. It's not logical. We need the N to build the green, that makes the sugar, or nothing works. To various degree's.
N can be dropped during stretch as part of the crop steering process. It speeds along the flowering cycle, as N availability is used as a gauge of remaining soil fertility. After stretch, there should be no need to drop it further, if you follow that path. Peters canna feed switches back to grow food after stretch.
I can't open the link, but I think it's this one https://www.jacksnutrients.com/cannabis-hemp-schedules

I don't reduce N at peak production time. Nor do I increase it much.
I think most feed charts are peaking the EC at 5-6 weeks, but I will hang around to see if I'm corrected.

I follow the plants as much as I can, but sometimes I let stuff I read interfere with that. I'm hydro, and of late, it's been a fairly steady approach. A couple of hundred ppm N, that will slow the plants if dropped to 160, which is about where signs are present. Lots of DWC research grows are 180-200N and I will go as high as 250N in veg.