Oregonism
Active member
Idaho and Texas might argue......that is harsh, but hey you get better weather.
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Whats the best way to get seeds started?
- Thread starter Tripp7s
- Start date
Idaho and Texas might argue......that is harsh, but hey you get better weather.
As with a lot of the posts soak seeds for 12hr or so in a warm enviroment . I know a lot of growers don`t bother but i find it helps germination if the seed casing is a bit softer & it also helps in the selection of fertile seeds . Any seeds floating tap & see if they sink , if they do use them & discard any floating ones .
Good luck with your future grows , you will learn a lot from experience & enjoy in safety .
Good luck with your future grows , you will learn a lot from experience & enjoy in safety .
Thanks for the info. Seems like a few different ways. Since I first posted this question I went ahead and put my seeds in wet paper towels. I took fine sandpaper to them first and roughed up the outer shell a bit. I tried 9 seeds and all of them sprouted after a couple of days. They are planted in soil now and I am reading up on nutrients. Too much info on nutrients as far as schedules and types or brands to choose from. Can someone point me in the right direction for the basics of feeding schedules and nutrients? I planted God Bud so I believe they are very thirsty for nutes.
Last edited:
Try Here
S
Space Ghost
Q'ed for truth...
Field&Stream
Member
KISS
Don't make something easy into something harder then it has to be.
Don't make something easy into something harder then it has to be.
I grow outdoors at lattitude 65.
The game here is a bit different and so also the germinating way had to be adapted.
Summer is short so things must go as fast & as healthy as possible, already from the earlyest beginning.
Here in Southern Lapland it is importend that seeds will come up at aproximatly the same time.
If I would plant them outdoors in fall, there will be a too long range inbetween the first and the last ones to pop, so I have no choise other as to pre-germinate them.
When planting seeds in fall or early spring, the first ones to pop would already do so during a time when there will still be snow & night frost, and soil temps will not have reached the plus 5C even. > bad conditions to get big plants as plants need at least 8 to 10C to get some speed.
The last ones however would pop when the soil is like 15C and beyond, and most likely during a time when the weather gets too hot and dry to keep the germs alive without artificially watering them.
My methode is to soak cotton slabs lightly in water and then press all of the liquid water out of it again inbetween 2 planks and a VICE. ^^
Germing seeds LOVE oxigine and will sprout best when facing high humidity levels only, so definatly NOT in liquid water. Hence.
Together with some online friends we once tested several different germinating ways, and we all came to a joint conclusion that moist cotton was the best way to germinate them.
Seeds that had germinated this way got a significantly bigger and whiter taproot as seeds that were done using the "papertowel" or "soaked in water" systems and what not.
So cotton slabs it will be, or cotton band aid or eco diaper etc. will be fine too.
Wrap the 'viced' SLIGHTLY moist cotton, filled with seeds, in plastic foil or bag, & then in a dark place at 23 to 24 C.
After exactly 1.5 days will I remove the pregerminated seeds from the slabs and plant them directly in outdoor soil when soil temps have remained a steady 8 to 10 C, depending on the type of spring we get.
Small (sativa) seeds can already go after 24 hours ,or anytime soon when the first root tip apears or seeds begin to crack.
Depending on the vigor of the (tested) seeds will I set the dept of the seeds with a planter gauge.
Planter gauge = 8 mm diameter bolt, 2 nuts screwed on threaded end & 1 large washer glued or welded to the lower nut.
> Protruding (threaded) end set to a required distence of between 7 and 12 mm.
Football shoe with not to long spikes works nicely too and speeds things up even faster
Verry vigorous seeds can easely handle 1.5 cm dept to be burried underneath, but all over I would say that it is safest to stay inbetween 7 and 12 mm.
Seeds go "with their 'ass hole' looking upwards at you, and their pointed end aiming downwards"
Best is to soak/saturate the final medium with about 5 % of it's total volume with water right after you put the seeds germinating in their moist cotton on top of the cupboard.
Then after 1.5 days the water will have gone down a bit and there will be more oxigine in the soil as when you first put seeds and straight thereafter water them by hand.
Don't get me wrong, you will have to water them a bit after planting too, but only a very little bit & only to make the soil stick to the seeds so their roots will go down. (unwatered seeds will go in all directions and many roots will come poking upwards out of the soil & going to waste.)
Note that there is a HUGE difference in seeds getting wet by RAIN or seeds getting wet by un-oxiginated water from the tap or bucket!
The speed in wich your sprouts eventually take off will be the proof of all this!
Young sprouts thrive best at a relative humidity of about 70% and NO MORE water untill at least 2 weeks after the first saturation. (Big leafes & thick stems this way! But watch out, cuzz this would only work like that on soil volumes of at least several liters cuzz on smaller pots you most certainly would want to monitor the dehydration process of the soil and act accordingly.)
On basic soil NO nutes would be required during the first 2 weeks. Any feeding scedule thereafter would depend on composition & ec levels of soil.
It is sooo fucking easy to get it right everytime, if you only follow these handfull of principles.
Hope this helps to do it right every time.
The game here is a bit different and so also the germinating way had to be adapted.
Summer is short so things must go as fast & as healthy as possible, already from the earlyest beginning.
Here in Southern Lapland it is importend that seeds will come up at aproximatly the same time.
If I would plant them outdoors in fall, there will be a too long range inbetween the first and the last ones to pop, so I have no choise other as to pre-germinate them.
When planting seeds in fall or early spring, the first ones to pop would already do so during a time when there will still be snow & night frost, and soil temps will not have reached the plus 5C even. > bad conditions to get big plants as plants need at least 8 to 10C to get some speed.
The last ones however would pop when the soil is like 15C and beyond, and most likely during a time when the weather gets too hot and dry to keep the germs alive without artificially watering them.
My methode is to soak cotton slabs lightly in water and then press all of the liquid water out of it again inbetween 2 planks and a VICE. ^^
Germing seeds LOVE oxigine and will sprout best when facing high humidity levels only, so definatly NOT in liquid water. Hence.
Together with some online friends we once tested several different germinating ways, and we all came to a joint conclusion that moist cotton was the best way to germinate them.
Seeds that had germinated this way got a significantly bigger and whiter taproot as seeds that were done using the "papertowel" or "soaked in water" systems and what not.
So cotton slabs it will be, or cotton band aid or eco diaper etc. will be fine too.
Wrap the 'viced' SLIGHTLY moist cotton, filled with seeds, in plastic foil or bag, & then in a dark place at 23 to 24 C.
After exactly 1.5 days will I remove the pregerminated seeds from the slabs and plant them directly in outdoor soil when soil temps have remained a steady 8 to 10 C, depending on the type of spring we get.
Small (sativa) seeds can already go after 24 hours ,or anytime soon when the first root tip apears or seeds begin to crack.
Depending on the vigor of the (tested) seeds will I set the dept of the seeds with a planter gauge.
Planter gauge = 8 mm diameter bolt, 2 nuts screwed on threaded end & 1 large washer glued or welded to the lower nut.
> Protruding (threaded) end set to a required distence of between 7 and 12 mm.
Football shoe with not to long spikes works nicely too and speeds things up even faster
Verry vigorous seeds can easely handle 1.5 cm dept to be burried underneath, but all over I would say that it is safest to stay inbetween 7 and 12 mm.
Seeds go "with their 'ass hole' looking upwards at you, and their pointed end aiming downwards"
Best is to soak/saturate the final medium with about 5 % of it's total volume with water right after you put the seeds germinating in their moist cotton on top of the cupboard.
Then after 1.5 days the water will have gone down a bit and there will be more oxigine in the soil as when you first put seeds and straight thereafter water them by hand.
Don't get me wrong, you will have to water them a bit after planting too, but only a very little bit & only to make the soil stick to the seeds so their roots will go down. (unwatered seeds will go in all directions and many roots will come poking upwards out of the soil & going to waste.)
Note that there is a HUGE difference in seeds getting wet by RAIN or seeds getting wet by un-oxiginated water from the tap or bucket!
The speed in wich your sprouts eventually take off will be the proof of all this!
Young sprouts thrive best at a relative humidity of about 70% and NO MORE water untill at least 2 weeks after the first saturation. (Big leafes & thick stems this way! But watch out, cuzz this would only work like that on soil volumes of at least several liters cuzz on smaller pots you most certainly would want to monitor the dehydration process of the soil and act accordingly.)
On basic soil NO nutes would be required during the first 2 weeks. Any feeding scedule thereafter would depend on composition & ec levels of soil.
It is sooo fucking easy to get it right everytime, if you only follow these handfull of principles.
Hope this helps to do it right every time.
this has always worked for me.......i put my seeds on moist paper towel in a bowl, cover it with another paper towel,then dissolve 1 of my ol lady,s hormonal pills in a small amount of water and pour that on top of the paper towels... let stand a few moments andthen pour off all remaining water off paper towels so they are just moist. cover with some sort of top to keep moisture in and put in a dark place until they pop. that hormanal pill will help you get more female plants for sure. i,ve done this the last 5 or 6 times and i get 95% females. also i might add that i never use tap water.
John.Hammond
New member
I have always used paper towels rolled around the seed in a cup barely full of Ph'd water on a heat pad with another solo cup on top. this makes a ghetto humidity dome in the 2 solo cups. I have had great success with direct sowing seeds in the medium as weel when i use soil, but I hate growing from seed in rockwool!
There are a few ways to germ with any of them Heat can improve your success rate by a lot. I use 85-90f
Mr.Fastcast
Member
If germinating in soil,it's best to water first before placing seed.Paper towel method mostly,dark,and warm,low 80's.
You will find not all cannabis seeds crack at 80 or below. I have been using 85-90f for a few years. Since switching over to a higher germ temp my success rate has improved. Seeds I could not get to crack are now cracking. The higher temp also helps a lot with older seed stock. What ever method you chose heat is the key IMO...
iv got a 250w cfl light is that to high for seedlings??? im getting worried im not seeing anything happening, i soaked the seeds for 24 hours and the little root popped out so I then put them into the rockwool and pt them in the dome with the light about 2 ft above its day 5 and still nothing,,,,, any advice would be fab
S
sweetestsin420
1
dont worry you will grow out of it. i dont like handling the baby sprouts . totally not needed. and doing 100 or more in paper towels sucks. might be ok for like 20 or so seeds. but i dont roll that small. part of my selection process is culling the weak. this starts at germination. cant pop and break soil on its own i dont want it. if ya had some special seeds maybe use towels, but even then tho i just make a hole drop seed in an keep moist without covering hole.whatever works for you.
Last edited:
S
sweetestsin420
1
S
sweetestsin420
1
