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what do you recommend or use to kill mites
- Thread starter badboyg
- Start date
floramite
G
Guest
Listen to this: Mites = neem wrecking trucks. Neem won't even make them slow down. Use Floramite and if you really have a serious problem of over saturated population, inbetween or at the beginning of each crop hit the plants with floramite then 3 days later hit them with avid. Floramite kills eggs, avid kills living mites, they have a 5 day life cycle. Everything else that isn't a commercial substance won't do anything but waste your money.
G
Guest
The reason for the avid at the beginning of the cycle is breakdown halflife.
No need to use avid, if you've used floramite... It kills everything... apply it twice a few days apart... Stays active for 21 days... Works everytime I've seen it used...
G
Guest
Exactly, that's the same thing I do. Use it and watch the plants after 3 weeks to see if they come back.
Avid wipes em out in 1 spraying every time I've had em...Heard lots of good stuff about Floramite tho.
G
Guest
ummm just hang a no pest strip and say goodbye...they were made for pot growers all u do is hang em in there no spray no stay, hang and walk away!!!!
ThereIsHope
Member
I use No Pest Strips plus Neem Oil every 10 days. That will screw everything up with an exoskeleton or insect heartbeat and send the bastards to see jesus.
Gnatrol for fungus gnats works like right now to kill anything in the soil.
If you have CO2, you can crank it up to around 5,000 PPM's or greater for a few hours and that will asphixiate any bastards who like air to breath as well.
Gnatrol for fungus gnats works like right now to kill anything in the soil.
If you have CO2, you can crank it up to around 5,000 PPM's or greater for a few hours and that will asphixiate any bastards who like air to breath as well.
G
Guest
i just wanna know why in the world you would spray your plants, or go to any other extreme meausure when all you do is hang this shit from your reflector or wherever it'll get a breeze from your oscillationg fan...lasts forever...kills em fast as shit, K.I.S.S.
Because they don't always work. I had 3 of them in a tiny closet and at best, it slowed them down. Same thing with neem, safers soap and all the other "safe" cures out there - they just don't do the job near as reliably.
G
Guest
Floramite with NPS for shits and giggles.
Joe Homegrown
New member
i have found that a product known as "Jungle Rain "seems to do a pretty good job .. its marketed as a leaf wash but it does a great job at both...
2buds
Active member
Tag-I got the same problem going on now. No Pest Strips ain't running them off like before. Sucks, I got bud on stick, can't spray any juice on them. Fuckers came out like a mad army. Dang. Check back for what to get for prevention. It looks like avid or floramite so far. Peace
G
Guest
A lot of the commercial agro pesticides are safe after 10 days for ingestion. The stuff can be pretty dangerous fresh though.
Avid was the killer a few years ago up here. Before that it was Vendex(sp?). Now it's Floramite/Dynamite. Eventually it will be something else.
It helps to hit them with one then the other. Keep their immune system scattered.
Since there is so much commercial growing in this province and clones are moving from op to op, the mites and other pestilence have had a chance to get immune to it all at some point or another.
The only way I was able to get rid of Mites, Thrips, and Powdery Mildew was to go 100% self contained and not introduce other peoples stock into my own set ups.
Now that has changed unfortunately. Our staple Hash Plant has run it's course and now everybody is Kush crazy. I've picked up a couple of Kush strains to add to my mamma patch and sure enough I can see the shiny spots all over them from thrips. My friend had to do the same and now it's web city. The battle starts all over.
badboyg said:
As long as the active ingredients in the miticides/insecticides are not the same, use as many different ones as possible, and alternate between them.
It is so, that mites become resistant to both synthetic and organic toxines after a while. The chemical industry loves it, it gives them reason to develop and sell new insecticides that work great in the beginning, then needs to be replaced by a new product.
Changing between different products frequently will increase your chances of killing all the mites, even those resistant to one or two products.
chodo said:
Slowing them down is exactly what it does. Neem oil has a special status in spider mite fighting. It is composed of a complex mixture of biologically active compounds, Azidirachtin being the most active of these. It doesn't actually kill the mites, it acts as an insect growth regulator (IGR) preventing exoskeleton development and impeding the molting process. It is most effective on younger stages of an insects development than when they have reached their adult form.
What happens with synthetic pesticides is that it kills the mites indiscriminately, except those individuals that has some kind of natural resistance against it. Those few individuals will be the only one to breed, and the next generation will be resistant against that very product. Since neem oil doesn't kill, but makes the overall mite population more fragile (for instance, more vulnerable to the plant's own defense systems), all mites reproduce, but slower. The result is that the mite population stalls, and no resistance is developed. Neem oil is therefore a must in your spider mite arsenal.
k1llakr0n said:
k1llakr0n said:
The active ingredient in NPS is Dichlorvos, also called DDVP. It is a fumigant insecticide/miticide that evaporates easily into the air, where it is broken down into less harmful chemicals. The thing is, in order to stay active (and actually kill the mites), it has to be diffused on a regular basis.
On the Toxicity Rating Scale, Dichlorvos has the classification DANGER, which is the classification for highly toxic products and poisons. It is therefore more toxic than most insecticides and miticides on the market (Avid and Dicofol, popular miticides among growers, has the classification WARNING, and is less toxic than Dichlorvos).
Whatever the mites breathe, you breathe. Occasional exposure to NPS won't really affect your health in any measurable way, but constant exposure, let's say if you spend several hours in your growroom almost daily, or even live next to your growroom and share the same air, might.
I find it strange that some growers are reticent to spraying their grows with low toxic pesticides because they don't want to smoke the stuff, but they voluntarily accept to inhale highly toxic pesticides.
The US Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that dichlorvos may reasonably be anticipated to be a carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that dichlorvos is possibly carcinogenic to humans. The EPA has determined that dichlorvos is a probable human carcinogen.
A study in rats and mice reported that rats had an increase in cancer of the pancreas and in leukemia, and female mice had an increase in stomach cancer after they were fed dichlorvos for 2 years.
In short, the ultimate miticide doesn't exist. Or rather, let's say that if you made a insecticide/miticide that was so toxic that it would really wipe out all mites, with a half-life sufficiently long to take care of eggs and hibernating mite females, it would be so toxic (to man) that it would not meet modern safety regulations for horticultural insecticides.
Which is why all miticides are low toxic, non-systemic and insufficient to bring about a final solution to your mite problems.
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I fought mites for years, nearly nonstop except for a few short breaks...
Floramite completely got rid of my mite problem, and with light maintainance sprayings when moving plants from one area to another, has kept them 100%gone...
Avid is partially systemic and alot more toxic than floramite...
Floramite completely got rid of my mite problem, and with light maintainance sprayings when moving plants from one area to another, has kept them 100%gone...
Avid is partially systemic and alot more toxic than floramite...
