Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[HempKat]

hello there it's aim9sidew. but I forgot the pass for that account so its gone so

These are week 3 flowering..

do you think this lanky and tall sativa is going to yield anything at all? is it just slow? it is sicker than the healthier one tho.. so is it just slow or just over sick..

is this ok for day 24-25 flowering? considering factors like not being really 100% healthy


this is the healthier one

and this is the lanky tall and so far looking a bit fluffy

If she is a 10 week thing , I'd understand, but so far, looking pooooor

both plants are ak48, 1 is the lankiest ,most sativa pheno ever


I need to add I have been cutting stems 2x times in flowering on this one so I shocked her twice alot. Also the biggest stem died since something fell on it, it was unrepairable damage.

Now it's almost 1 week with no stress and I don't see the explosion I'd like to (like the healthier one)

Well it's hard to say for sure since I haven't grown that strain and therefore I don't know if what I see in those pics is normal or not? You mentioned a couple of times it being very sativa like so it may very well be a 10 or even a 12 week strain, if so then what I see in the pics would be fairly normal. You also emphasized it is unhealthy yet I didn't see anything blatently unhealthy in the pics. So perhaps you think it's unhealthy because it's growing different then what you're used to but in reality that's normal for that strain?

You did also say you had to cut it twice and there was an accident that severely damaged one plant. Now that last part about topping in flower and having something fall on a plant, that could definately slow a plant down for a week or two. If that's what's happening here then you look like you'll be okay provided the stress doesn't cause one or more plants to go hermie on you.

If I had to make a call I'd say you likely do have a 10 to 12 week maybe even longer, strain. In that case you should just relax and wait, many sativas look like they're not much of anything untill the last few weeks and then the buds start to really swell and put on weight.

 

[HempKat]

oh well I have tried the very very immature buds from the tops I needed to cut since the height issue

this is the bomb. blows away all this schwag and it has been picked around flower week 3, what is this going to do in full maturity????

so yeah whatever yield, it is going to be the bomb.

Yeah, that's pretty amazing if it gives you much more then a headache at week 3.

 

[A1M-9SW]

Thank you so much !!! I would so much give you free weed if I could .. even if you don't need it lol.

thanks again

 

[mellow yellow]

Hey Team

My plants have been on 12/12 for 2 weeks, I plan on removing the growth on the lower parts of the branches (I want big buds not popcorn lol) when is best to do this I would assume sooner rather than later but will this harm my ladies.
Thanks

 

[HempKat]

Hey Team

My plants have been on 12/12 for 2 weeks, I plan on removing the growth on the lower parts of the branches (I want big buds not popcorn lol) when is best to do this I would assume sooner rather than later but will this harm my ladies.
Thanks

That's something I've been wondering myself as I've been growing SoG style which pretty much requires you to remove lower growth. The problem is the growth you end up removing often isn't there or doesn't look like it needs removing, when the plant is in veg, which is the better time for trimming a plant because it's less stressful then trimming in flower.

What I've been doing though is trimming mine at about the point you're at now maybe a little later like week 3 of flower. At that point the stretch phase should be about over and so after you trim that lower growth you shouldn't be getting much new growth after that, well other then the buds growing bigger. Anyway so far it hasn't been a problem but I don't know if there is a more correct time to trim them.

 

[A1M-9SW]

I have been trying to get info on this and bumped a thread and been asking googling but can't find info on it.

I am using neem oil as soil drench and I was wondering how many times should I apply it and how long does systemically remain in the plants.

I water around once a week. Should I keep watering with neem oil ?
I got a minor spider mite infestation (spotted some days ago) and I want to keep them under control till harvest which is in 4 to 5 weeks from now approx. I have also sprayed , so far it is working, mites are not spreading and I have removed all the most infected leaves.

this is not a spider mite help question , just help about Neem Oil soil drench ..

if they get out of control im going to harvest early, but so far I am winning

 

[mellow yellow]

Thanks HK, i`m on it

 

[HempKat]

I have been trying to get info on this and bumped a thread and been asking googling but can't find info on it.

I am using neem oil as soil drench and I was wondering how many times should I apply it and how long does systemically remain in the plants.

I water around once a week. Should I keep watering with neem oil ?
I got a minor spider mite infestation (spotted some days ago) and I want to keep them under control till harvest which is in 4 to 5 weeks from now approx. I have also sprayed , so far it is working, mites are not spreading and I have removed all the most infected leaves.

this is not a spider mite help question , just help about Neem Oil soil drench ..

if they get out of control im going to harvest early, but so far I am winning

Well fortunately I've never had spider mites and as such I've never used neem oil. I've seen lots of people post about it but everytime I can recall they were just using it as a foliar spray and not a drench. So alas I don't know the answer to your question. Perhaps the manufacturer has a site and the site has contact info so that you can ask them?

 

[S_a_H]

When I take cuttings......

Does it matter if the stem is hollow or should use a more solid stem cutting for cloning.

I have DJ Short Flodica plants that I topped but the stem is so hollow you can stick a pencil in it.

S_a_H

 

[HempKat]

When I take cuttings......

Does it matter if the stem is hollow or should use a more solid stem cutting for cloning.

I have DJ Short Flodica plants that I topped but the stem is so hollow you can stick a pencil in it.

S_a_H

I'm not sure what you mean. Some strains have hollow stems, some have woody ones. If you're getting hollowness big enough to stick a pencil in, it sounds like you're talking at the main stalk and not where the cuttings should be taken (grow tips). Now if you're asking should you take a clone from a plant that has hollow stems then I say yes because as near as I can tell from my experiences hollow stems is a genetic thing and not the indication of a problem or deficiency. What I have seen in my experiences is that while a plant may have a stalk hollow enough to stick a pencil in it, the grow tips that I take for cuttings from the same plant, do not appear to be hollow, although they become that way later when the clone roots and grows big.

 

[S_a_H]

I had topped 3-4 plants it was the main stem top about 4 inches worth.

Second question.....

After I topped them I had a hole at the top of my plant that you could stick a pencil into. Should I plug that hole with something or leave it be ?

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3436169&postcount=25

S_a_H

 

[HempKat]

I had topped 3-4 plants it was the main stem top about 4 inches worth.

Second question.....

After I topped them I had a hole at the top of my plant that you could stick a pencil into. Should I plug that hole with something or leave it be ?

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3436169&postcount=25

S_a_H

You could but you don't have to. I had plants like that before and just left them and the exposed hollowness didn't seem to make a difference. I've also seen people who were concerned about something unwanted getting in or too much moisture getting out and so they plugged the hole with tissue paper and they end up fine. So whichever way you feel most comfortable with.

 

[Gold123]

You could but you don't have to. I had plants like that before and just left them and the exposed hollowness didn't seem to make a difference. I've also seen people who were concerned about something unwanted getting in or too much moisture getting out and so they plugged the hole with tissue paper and they end up fine. So whichever way you feel most comfortable with.

The correct thing to use if your worried is pruning sealer, any garden store has it. Don't get the spray get the paint on stuff if you can find it. If not spray it into something and paint it on. You can also use grafting wax.

 

[Sinxar]

I have a really noobie question. I started 4 plants from seed, i veg'ed for 2 weeks then switched to 12/12. its been about 2 weeks of 12/12 and im trying to determine sex but i don't have any type of magnifying glass.

2 of the larger plants showed what i thought was preflowers for a while.They slowly took shape from little nubs to oval-shaped things. but today when the lights came back on, upon close inspection those preflowers now look like a very tiny set of leaves.

My question: are those very tiny leaves the start of buds or another set of leaves? Been flowering for about 2 weeks now. and no, i havent seen any white hairs at all.

 

[HempKat]

I have a really noobie question. I started 4 plants from seed, i veg'ed for 2 weeks then switched to 12/12. its been about 2 weeks of 12/12 and im trying to determine sex but i don't have any type of magnifying glass.

2 of the larger plants showed what i thought was preflowers for a while.They slowly took shape from little nubs to oval-shaped things. but today when the lights came back on, upon close inspection those preflowers now look like a very tiny set of leaves.

My question: are those very tiny leaves the start of buds or another set of leaves? Been flowering for about 2 weeks now. and no, i havent seen any white hairs at all.

That growth you were seeing is probably going to become a bud site but it's not the bud itself.

Some strains just take longer to show what sex they are, you'rs should start to show within the next week. Right now you're in a stage of flowering called the stretch phase. This generally lasts about three weeks (a little longer for some sativa strains). Usually by the end of the stretch phase plants will have started putting out flowers.

Probably what has slowed you up more then anything is that you didn't veg the plant very long so it was immature when you put it in flower. Immature plants in flower tend to take longer to show thier sex and start putting out flowers. It's like they need to mature first and then flower after they mature instead of doing it while they mature. Generally speaking a plant takes 6 to 8 weeks of veg to mature and often times if you can manage to veg them that long plants will show thier sex with pre-flowers even though you haven't switched to 12/12 yet.

By the way you should really work on getting some sort of jewelers loupe, magnifying glass or pocket microscope that can magnify up to 30x or better. Not only is such a thing helpful in determining the sex of a plant but you'll also need it come harvest to help judge when the plant is ready to be harvested.

 

[Sinxar]

Thanks HempKat

 

[Matanuskan Flo]

hello old timer's -

question - I have a clone that is in intermediate flower, some pistils, some calyxii already present. My issue is, it is my sole specimen. I want to take cuttings to perpetuate. There are no prime offshoots that are pistil/calyx free. most are short branches as well. the only branches long enough have just a fan leaf on it.

is it possible to cut the fan leaf & root that into a plant?? or must there be an actual side branch or branch with apical cola or whatever it is called?? i hope i made this clear enough.

if i cannot clone the fan leaf branch, i have no choice but to take a cutting of a somewhat mature, short branch that has pistils & calyxii already present. I know this is the worst way to clone, but i don;t know what else to do. I have never been able to successfully re-veg any plant, so that is out. this specimen is soooooo special & unique, I have kept it in 24/0 light for a month now, & there has been no new flowering, but no new vegging either. its almost is stasis, i feel. the second it goes to 12/12, its gonna bloom like crazy & i feel I'll lose any chance to take a viable cut that will root. thank you very very much.

the strain is unknown, called Scooby Doo. This is the first specimen I have seen that reeeeeks & presents crystals in early early veg. It is just amazing, was shipped from Arcata to me. so, any suggestions would really help. thanks guys.

 

[HempKat]

hello old timer's -

question - I have a clone that is in intermediate flower, some pistils, some calyxii already present. My issue is, it is my sole specimen. I want to take cuttings to perpetuate. There are no prime offshoots that are pistil/calyx free. most are short branches as well. the only branches long enough have just a fan leaf on it.

is it possible to cut the fan leaf & root that into a plant?? or must there be an actual side branch or branch with apical cola or whatever it is called?? i hope i made this clear enough.

if i cannot clone the fan leaf branch, i have no choice but to take a cutting of a somewhat mature, short branch that has pistils & calyxii already present. I know this is the worst way to clone, but i don;t know what else to do. I have never been able to successfully re-veg any plant, so that is out. this specimen is soooooo special & unique, I have kept it in 24/0 light for a month now, & there has been no new flowering, but no new vegging either. its almost is stasis, i feel. the second it goes to 12/12, its gonna bloom like crazy & i feel I'll lose any chance to take a viable cut that will root. thank you very very much.

the strain is unknown, called Scooby Doo. This is the first specimen I have seen that reeeeeks & presents crystals in early early veg. It is just amazing, was shipped from Arcata to me. so, any suggestions would really help. thanks guys.

It's okay for there to be a few calyxes present those are what we call pre-flowers. You're probably thinking of how you're not supposed to try to clone flowering plants (you can but it's more difficult). This however is different, pre-flowers can show up on any mature plant in veg and clones when done properly are mature the moment they root because they came from a mature mother. So you can take a cutting with calyxes on it and that's not a problem.

On your fan leaf question, I'm not sure if I understand your question or if I had a picture it would help. I'm not positive but I seem to recall somewhere seeing a person attempt to clone from just the fan leaf and nothing else, unfortunately I don't recall the outcome of his experiment. Now as for branches with just fan leafs, there's no such think, at least not naturally. Early on a lower branch can appear to have just fan leafs. Usually if you look closely you'll find a little bit of growth where the fan leaf stem connects to the branch. It might be very small but that bit of growth is actually the grow tip that the clone will grow from. It's not ideal to clone from a cutting like that but it can be done although you're more likely to have problems.

If it's important to you to preserve I'd go ahead and use a cutting that has a calyx or two on it. There's two reasons that those calyxes are there, besides the maturity point I mentioned. One is that you've been vegging that clone for a month. A clone taken from a mature plant probably doesn't have a calyx on it when it first takes roo but since it's mature one or more will develope not long after it roots and starts growing. So the fact you got calyxes is probably more to do with you having vegged that plant for a month now. The other possibility is that it's an autoflowering strain which means it'll flower no matter what light schedule because the plant's trigger to flower is based on something other then the length of the light and dark periods. I don't think that's the case here but I'm not sure since the strain is unknown.

Also from what you've said I think the lack of growth you're seeing is more to do with the strain then anything. Plants typically don't go into a stasis like mode unless you keep the temps below 70 with lights on and don't feed them much. Clones usually grow less then the same strain from seed but not significantly less so if it's not growing much it's probably more to do with the natural characteristic of that strain.

A final piece of advice, stop wasting your money on your electric bill by running your veg lights 24/0. People do that mainly to try to get more growth then normal but doing so doesn't give you that much more growth and even though you do get some extra growth the plants generally don't seem as healthy as plants that get a dark period every day. Nothing in nature benefits more by getting no dark period. Plants especially because they don't sleep but rather have specific functions they do better in the dark so they have what's called a light response and a dark response. Anyway you're plants will grow almost as tall (within a few inches) if you use an 18/6 schedule (18 on / 6 off) and they'll be somewhat healthier but most importantly you'll save a good $30 or more a month on your electric bill.

 

[mellow yellow]

Hi HK et al, hope your all well. Just a quicky, need to raise my ph a bit my local shop is out of product so is there anything round the house/supermarket i can use?
Thanks

 

[HempKat]

Hi HK et al, hope your all well. Just a quicky, need to raise my ph a bit my local shop is out of product so is there anything round the house/supermarket i can use?
Thanks

There are things around the house that can adjust ph like lemon juice and vinegar but in my opinion they're not good for plants. There are alot of raw organic things that can work, like dolomite lime is a natural ph up and if I remember correctly wood ash is a ph down. There's a bunch of others but I forget what they are but they're really not meant for adjusting water but rather for adding to soil. You really need to learn to replace that stuff before it runs out so you don't have this situation. The ph adjusters hydro stores sell are made using things that are also nutritional to the plant rather then toxic like most of the "household" solutions are.