Anytime bud.
By now you've probably gotten the moisture down a little, have you sampled any of your hard work yet? I'm sure everyone would be glad to hear a report on your first effort. Hopefully you feel like this after --->
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Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?
- Thread starter HempKat
- Start date
By now you've probably gotten the moisture down a little, have you sampled any of your hard work yet? I'm sure everyone would be glad to hear a report on your first effort. Hopefully you feel like this after --->
I've grown out bagseed, so no recommended amount of flower time. I don't have anything to magnify, so I'm going based on pistil color. I've flowered for sixty days, and I figured my pistils would be an adequate ratio of red:white after a 2-day dark period, but I've still got more white than red.
What should I do? I'm ready to start my second grow in the next day or so, and I'm planning on revegging the plant.
Ah - nevermind, I'm just going to let it keep going until 75/80% of the pistils are red. Going to buy something to magnify, to see the trichomes.
What should I do? I'm ready to start my second grow in the next day or so, and I'm planning on revegging the plant.
Ah - nevermind, I'm just going to let it keep going until 75/80% of the pistils are red. Going to buy something to magnify, to see the trichomes.
Ya know HK, I've thought about that in the past and here's my take, without having an absolute way of testing. I think with cfl's, the heat source is in a smaller area, not spread out like a T5, making them feel hotter. I suspect a similar amount of wattages of T5's vs cfls would overall put out a similar amount of BTU's. But your point is still valid as for how much harm could happen to vegetation, X-amount of heat spread out over a 2ft bulb vs the same amount coming from one more compact source is apt to cause less heat stress, I'm guessing.
So I'm experimenting...
I put in the extra light and thought I'd share a pic. I thought I had a warm 2700k 30 watt lamp but I only had a 40. I watched it close the first night, it's been in there 2 nights now with no apparent heat stress nearby. I have some smaller ones if this one causes a problem but so far I don't think heat will be an issue. Checking near the end of this light cycle the cabinet temp was 80 degrees so overall hasn't changed much.
We'll see if this makes any noticable difference. It's 4 weeks in, about 4 to go. It might have been a better experiment if I had started this from the beginning of 12/12.
A lil flower pic while I'm at it. A bit of frost showing up.
FWIW, I've grown out 2 strains, a diesel and some bagseed indica that's turned out very well, and neither had any white pistils whatsoever by the time the trichs where turning cloudy.
Seeing the trichs is worth it IMO. The radio shack microscope (hard to use but does the job) or a cheap jewelers loupe is a worthwhile investment.
I have been sampling for a long time, way before harvest!and I like it!
Thanks all.....
Hey cool bud.. that's what it's all about! Hopefully it will do nothing but get more tokable as it cures.
Sorry I don't know anything about that poster or any growers secret regarding Original Haze. I do know that there are alot of older folks in the growing circles that feel passionately about various Hazes. I also know there is some controversy over it's origins. That's about all I know though. I have never grown Original Haze or any other Haze that I know of for that matter. Not that I have anything against Haze it's just never been something I've messed with. I don't really get too passionate about any weed either. I figure with all the strains and phenotypes out there, there's something for everyone so when you find what's good for you enjoy it and when someone else finds what's good for them be happy for them.
As for selling that poster you would probably find alot of interested buyers on a site like this but the site isn't intended for people to come here and sell stuff. Now what might be a solution is to set it up on E-Bay for auction and then let interested people know where to bid on it there. I don't know what if any collectors value it might have but if any E-bay could work out real good for that. My wife has done well with collectable hand crafted glass dishes and vases and such on there in the past.
That's one accepted approach and according to those who use it, it provides the best and smoothest cure. Alot of what gets passed around as advice is as much personal preference as it is advice though. For most every aspect of growing there are multiple ways to go about it and ultimately what is best, is what is best for each individual. For example, if one is poor then obviously the best way for him is to not try and go with all the latest and greatest equipment and the best most expensive nutrients. Maybe for a poor person what is best is a decent method that fits within their budget?
Same holds true for curing, many folks, myself included, find trying to trim the leaves after they're dry to be much more tedious and difficult and not worth it for a subjective improvement that not everyone might notice. Personally I'd much rather trim the leaves fresh and then try to keep the humidity near 60% where they dry. That way they still get a nice slow drying period (the reason for leaving on the leaves) without having to leave the leaves on.
I wouldn't think so, I would imagine to the plant it would be like the sun ducking in and out from behind the clouds.
That would be the best thing to do. Believe me I understand the frustration of having stuff ready to go but the plants ahead of them aren't ready. Don't those silly girls standing around in the flower room smelling so good realize there's a line of ladies waiting to get into your club?
Seriously though, if most of the pistils are still white chances are better then not that the trichomes are not ripe yet. So better to let them go longer. What were their leaves like long and thin bladed or short and wide bladed? If short and wide it's likely Indica or indica dominent and should finish within the next week or two. If the leaves were long and thin it's likely sativa or sativa dominent and those can go 12 weeks or more.
Ya know HK, I've thought about that in the past and here's my take, without having an absolute way of testing. I think with cfl's, the heat source is in a smaller area, not spread out like a T5, making them feel hotter. I suspect a similar amount of wattages of T5's vs cfls would overall put out a similar amount of BTU's. But your point is still valid as for how much harm could happen to vegetation, X-amount of heat spread out over a 2ft bulb vs the same amount coming from one more compact source is apt to cause less heat stress, I'm guessing.
So I'm experimenting...
I put in the extra light and thought I'd share a pic. I thought I had a warm 2700k 30 watt lamp but I only had a 40. I watched it close the first night, it's been in there 2 nights now with no apparent heat stress nearby. I have some smaller ones if this one causes a problem but so far I don't think heat will be an issue. Checking near the end of this light cycle the cabinet temp was 80 degrees so overall hasn't changed much.
We'll see if this makes any noticable difference. It's 4 weeks in, about 4 to go. It might have been a better experiment if I had started this from the beginning of 12/12.
A lil flower pic while I'm at it. A bit of frost showing up.
Yeah one little one like that you might get away with but it's not going to cover much area so I figure the benefit will be negligable, although keep in mind, at points where the paths of two lights intersect the energy present there is the sum of both lights so in a sense that cfl is sort of giving a little boost to the HPS at the point it's light is growing weak.
Quickie update, after 3 light cycles with the 40 watts underneath, all of the lower leaves look nice and green now, not the pale, anemic look they had. Cool enough and enough space around the lamp to not cause any damage so far. Maybe they'll be some slight gains when they're done.
dextersdiesel
New member
Hey guys,
A quick apology if this has been discussed recently, I couldn't find much on the subject.
I had a small spider mite issue, countered the problem with Ed Rosenthal's Zero Tolerance, which I find to be an awesome product. As my plants are drooping I'm almost 99% sure I have clogged the stomata, probably for a few days now.
My question is, has anybody successfully recovered a plant from severely clogged stomata? I have rinsed the underside of the leaves with water and little seems to be changing. What little I have found around the web says they wont recover, I'm looking for a second, more expert opinion if anybody has it.
Thanks for the help
A quick apology if this has been discussed recently, I couldn't find much on the subject.
I had a small spider mite issue, countered the problem with Ed Rosenthal's Zero Tolerance, which I find to be an awesome product. As my plants are drooping I'm almost 99% sure I have clogged the stomata, probably for a few days now.
My question is, has anybody successfully recovered a plant from severely clogged stomata? I have rinsed the underside of the leaves with water and little seems to be changing. What little I have found around the web says they wont recover, I'm looking for a second, more expert opinion if anybody has it.
Thanks for the help
Sorry, I've never had that problem or knew anyone that has so I don't have much to offer. All I can really say is that generally speaking, when it comes to damage to leaves the vast majority of the times damaged leaves (even wilted ones) will not recover. Or more correctly they will never return to a healthy appearence. Even leaves that wilted because you're a bit late on the watering. Sure in that circumstance the leaves will recover from thier wilted look when you water and they'll do so usually within a half hour but the lower ones will typically die off a day or two later because the wilting took too great a toll on them.
Now if your plants are in veg you should be able to get the plants back to decent health in time if the plant can generate new growth. If it's bad and you're well into flower then the plant might be too focused on bud growth to really generate new leaves for the plant to recover with.
Just an observation, and I'm not meaning to knock Ed on this but I would say that if this happened from using his zero tolerance product as specified in directions, then the product can't be that awesome, what good is it to wipe out mites if you wipe out your crop with them? Now if you didn't follow directions....well, enough said.
hello there it's aim9sidew. but I forgot the pass for that account so its gone so
These are week 3 flowering..
do you think this lanky and tall sativa is going to yield anything at all? is it just slow? it is sicker than the healthier one tho.. so is it just slow or just over sick..
is this ok for day 24-25 flowering? considering factors like not being really 100% healthy
this is the healthier one
and this is the lanky tall and so far looking a bit fluffy
If she is a 10 week thing , I'd understand, but so far, looking pooooor
both plants are ak48, 1 is the lankiest ,most sativa pheno ever
I need to add I have been cutting stems 2x times in flowering on this one so I shocked her twice alot. Also the biggest stem died since something fell on it, it was unrepairable damage.
Now it's almost 1 week with no stress and I don't see the explosion I'd like to (like the healthier one)
These are week 3 flowering..
do you think this lanky and tall sativa is going to yield anything at all? is it just slow? it is sicker than the healthier one tho.. so is it just slow or just over sick..
is this ok for day 24-25 flowering? considering factors like not being really 100% healthy
this is the healthier one
and this is the lanky tall and so far looking a bit fluffy
If she is a 10 week thing , I'd understand, but so far, looking pooooor
both plants are ak48, 1 is the lankiest ,most sativa pheno ever
I need to add I have been cutting stems 2x times in flowering on this one so I shocked her twice alot. Also the biggest stem died since something fell on it, it was unrepairable damage.
Now it's almost 1 week with no stress and I don't see the explosion I'd like to (like the healthier one)
oh well I have tried the very very immature buds from the tops I needed to cut since the height issue
this is the bomb. blows away all this schwag and it has been picked around flower week 3, what is this going to do in full maturity????
so yeah whatever yield, it is going to be the bomb.
this is the bomb. blows away all this schwag and it has been picked around flower week 3, what is this going to do in full maturity????
so yeah whatever yield, it is going to be the bomb.
mellow yellow
Member
Thanks HK, helpful as always!
Stay out of those buds, A1M-9SW!
