Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[311devon]

Alright fellas....we'll move her into some new digs..couple more ?'s for yall.
1. what i should learn from this is,the stress generated by a bad soil/pot situation is worse than bringing a plant that is 6 days into flower back into veg and repotting, right?
2. would going down to about a 1 gal pot be a no no assuming the root ball fits adequately?
3. im trying get her through the box and outta the way as soon as i can, what do yall think is the minimum length of veg time required to get her back to heath will be, assumming she responds well?
fyi...my flowerbox is 28w x 14d x 26h inside dimensions. lights take up about 6in including space that would be to hot due to proximity with the bulbs(allowed 2in for that). i will have to veg her there as she is too big for my mother/clone box. with this pot pushed almost to the far edge i have about 6in left before the upper leaves are rubbing the other side. guess i could just train her back the opposite direction if she shoots up after repotting........

once again thanks for lettin me pick your brains! all help is appreciated.

p.s. i retract my statement about this not being moisture control soil. lights just came on and i poked a finger in and holy shit! after two days it is still very moist. i must have not gotten it as wet as i thought the first time i watered her. re-pot is mandatory now! have to go smack my buddy too! lol!

 

[311devon]

how about this mix?

how about this mix?

what do yall think of this mix....5pt top soil 5pt mushroom compost 3pt vermicutlie 9pt coco 12pt perlite? it clumps and then crumbles nicely...................ph is slighly high..6.9-7.0...i have an organic acidifier if necessary....

 

[HempKat]

thanks for the quick reply Hempkat....I am sure this is not moisture control soil. it will dry out almost bone dry to a 2-3 in depth in 3 days in my box. i think he is exaggerating how long it had been. i am very reluctant to repot or stress this girl any more than i have to, he had trouble with two of them going hermie on him. probably induced by him.he had a 400w hps 10" off of them at one point...he's a rather lazy gardener in my opnion..hes done 5 or 6 grows all with seeds and wispy buds.... my plan was to cut a few clones which i did, flower her out and be done with her..just get what i could...she is too large for my box and i thought id be better off with fresh start from a few clones...gonna bonsi one into a mom.....my box is set up to sog 20" high lollipops...small diameter containers 9 per sqft...Dr Budgreengenes style....she is filler until the march of the clones gets going good...as for the color of the stems....i agree that its is likely the temps. I see no other signs of p or k issues. wanted to see if someone with exp and not just book knowledge agreed. the 11/13 cycle was brought on in an effort to get her to finish as fast as possible....i know its gonna cut into my yield some. i just wanted to get her done and out the way to make room for the lollipops. i was assuming the upper leaves were a lighter brighter green due to them only being a few days old...she has put on about 6-10 inches of growth since i got her...i will include earlier pics of her.these pics show her after a the first good drink she got and one cycle under lights. she was vegged under only about 40w (2900 lumens) of cfl hung way to high in my opnion.24hr cycle. that accounted for the stretch she is showing in my mind. I know for sure this was a clone not started from seed. once again thanks for your thouhts!

Well if you took clones that's probably the best way to go. Hopefully you took them before putting her into flower. Me personally, I'd still try to get that one into better soil since the old soil and the other growers skills are a big question mark. It may not need it and it may be overkill but at least I'd know what's in the soil. I hear you though on not wanting to stress it any more then it may already have been.

Again, just me personally, I don't know that I'd bother with the mother given her questionable handling. I'd keep her around long enough to see the clones root but that's it. Given that you're set up and geared for a different style of growing then what she's used to it doesn't sound practical to waste electricity to flower just that one plant.

One final thing, that light cycle, going 11-13 might speed up how fast flowers appear in the beginning and how fast buds finish in the end but it's not going to make flowering itself shorter. The length of dark period vs light only signals to the plant whether it should be flowering or vegging, it does not control the length of time to flower. That's genetically hardwired into the plant. The only way to speed up flowering is to say to yourself, "Even though it's not quite ready these buds are good enough for me" and then harvest before the buds are done.

 

[HempKat]

I have a learning curve in cloneing. Summer Temps & humid high. Clones well! Winter comes with the cold & low humidity Clones don't do well or at all. I need help with these areas. Do I get a small zip up clear tent with a humidifier? I use full strength hormex dip. clonex gel. I have coco & rock wool croutons to clone with. But have small amount bat guano in coco mix already, mexican 10-2-2 & pearlite with slilica powder & humic "rare earth" The humidity in my room is 10-30 % humidity. It is a basement, closed off with constant airflow, 465 cfm out, 200 cfm in. I have the little vented domes with heat mat & thermostat. With 100% results were in taped up edges of dome where it meets tray. I would waite for roots coming out the top if 6pack to open up tape. About 15-30 days all had great roots on them busting out every where. Please help.!!!

I'm not sure where you need help, cool temps and low humidity are not good conditions for cloning. Ideally the clones should stay in an area that's around 78-80 degrees F. Humidity in the room should be around 50% minimum if your cloning style doesn't use a humidity dome. If it does use a dome then the room humidity can be lower as long as the humidity under the dome stays high. In most parts of growing high humidity is a bad thing but in cloning the plant needs high humdity so it can get moisture thru the leaves until roots grow.

Cooler temps and low humidity can result in just slowing clones down if it's not too far off or they'll just never root and die off if it's too far off. Also I wouldn't be messing with a bunch of stuff like guano or humic acid, etc in the medium you're rooting in. Once rooted sure, add all that stuff but let that baby grow some teeth before you try to feed it steak.

 

[HempKat]

Alright fellas....we'll move her into some new digs..couple more ?'s for yall.
1. what i should learn from this is,the stress generated by a bad soil/pot situation is worse than bringing a plant that is 6 days into flower back into veg and repotting, right?
2. would going down to about a 1 gal pot be a no no assuming the root ball fits adequately?
3. im trying get her through the box and outta the way as soon as i can, what do yall think is the minimum length of veg time required to get her back to heath will be, assumming she responds well?
fyi...my flowerbox is 28w x 14d x 26h inside dimensions. lights take up about 6in including space that would be to hot due to proximity with the bulbs(allowed 2in for that). i will have to veg her there as she is too big for my mother/clone box. with this pot pushed almost to the far edge i have about 6in left before the upper leaves are rubbing the other side. guess i could just train her back the opposite direction if she shoots up after repotting........

once again thanks for lettin me pick your brains! all help is appreciated.

p.s. i retract my statement about this not being moisture control soil. lights just came on and i poked a finger in and holy shit! after two days it is still very moist. i must have not gotten it as wet as i thought the first time i watered her. re-pot is mandatory now! have to go smack my buddy too! lol!

1) Incorrect, you do not have to reveg to repot, just wait until prior to the next watering so the rootball is dry and easier to work with. To transplant one plant shouldn't take more then 5 - 10 minutes tops. Transplanting isn't really the same thing to be comparing the stress of transplant to the stress of something harmful in the soil. Transplanting as a stress is short term and usually results in improved conditions for the plant. Leaving bad soil in place is a constant stress that almost never gets better. I'm not saying you have to transplant. I only suggested it since you don't know what's in there. If you don't know what's in there and something starts going bad, how are you going to adjust? Is that deficiency you notice around week 2 of flower because the plant is in a period of rapid growth and using up lots of nutrients or is it because there's a ph imbalance because of something in the soil causing nutrient lockout? Two similar looking problems above the soil, two very different ways to treat it below the soil.

2) As long as the rootball fits without having to remove any of it, that should be fine. Even if you had to trim the rootball, it would probably still make it but you'd be increasing the stress the transplant was causing.

3) You've already started her flowering, I wouldn't bother trying to veg her any, then you will be adding to stress levels although if you've only been flowering 6 days the stress to revert to veg would be minimal. Look you said you took clones, so you don't need to "preserve the genetics". Also this plant is not set up to fit into your SOG space the way your SOG plants do. So what are you going to do, tie up your SOG space for two months to grow out one plant? In the final analysis you'll be better off. If you have clones going now they should be ready in a couple of weeks but if you flower that mother you'll have to wait 6 additional weeks before you can do anything with those clones. If you are out of smoke and wanting some smoke as quick as possible, then maybe I could see flowering the one. If you can wait though I'd say wait until you can flower a full crop.

Nah, don't smack your buddy, it's an honest beginner's mistake. He's not the first to try that type of soil for growing marijuana and I'm sure he won't be the last. Now if he's really your buddy you'll let him know that was likely the source of all his frustrations, that and a lack of knowledge.

 

[HempKat]

what do yall think of this mix....5pt top soil 5pt mushroom compost 3pt vermicutlie 9pt coco 12pt perlite? it clumps and then crumbles nicely...................ph is slighly high..6.9-7.0...i have an organic acidifier if necessary....

Sounds okay, maybe too hot for newly rooted clones or seedlings with the compost but other then that the only potential problem is that it's mostly soilless ingredients (coco, vermiculite, perlite). So it'll drain very fast and need rewatering more frequently then a more standard soil mix (3 parts enriched potting soil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite).

 

[transplant]

Also I wouldn't be messing with a bunch of stuff like guano or humic acid, etc in the medium you're rooting in. Once rooted sure, add all that stuff but let that baby grow some teeth before you try to feed it steak.

You put it all as I thought. Thank you fro your time. I don't try to clone in the mixed coco. well not any coco yet. I am hopeing to get it all rolling again here soon. I lost clones while blooming mothers, 1st & 2cnd gen clones. So how long should I veg new mothes before I can get good clones? I am working with DNA lemon skunk, DNA La woman. Dutch Passion Jorge's Diamonds #1, World of seeds NL crossed with BB, Nirvana NL crossed with BB. Madala Seeds Speed Queen & Hashberry + 2 clones of trinity, northen light, poweplant how old & tall, developed do seeds have to grow b4 cloning?

 

[311devon]

hempkat..once again thank you for your insight....after reading all your reponses here's my plan....repot this girl in a few days into a smaller pot(less footprint). since my sog is going to be perpetual i have some time before the sog needs much space, im not sure if im ready to manage 30-40 girls at once any way, i'm gonna keep her flowering and around since my clones arent lookin so hot at this point,i will have to do alot of Lst for sure,but then i can harvest, re-veg and then cut some more clones in case these dont make it. i am new to cloning totally, and i think i may have let them get too dry. Also thanks for the input on my soil mix. I kinda wanted it to drain fast, figured it would help buffer my newbie "wanna mess with it factor" and give me something to do...lol! As for the push to get some flowers going, you hit the nail on the head. I've been smokin about 3-4 peoples share of schwag for the last 20 years, i've done my time in the trenches, and am ready for something that doesnt cost me almost mortgage every month or my freedom, doesnt taste like shit, and actully gets me high after a blunt or two.....once again, thanks for all your input. you've made me feel welcome here. Mad Respect to you! i'll post some more pics and keep ya updated if ya wanna watch!
now i off to

 

[HempKat]

You put it all as I thought. Thank you fro your time. I don't try to clone in the mixed coco. well not any coco yet. I am hopeing to get it all rolling again here soon. I lost clones while blooming mothers, 1st & 2cnd gen clones. So how long should I veg new mothes before I can get good clones? I am working with DNA lemon skunk, DNA La woman. Dutch Passion Jorge's Diamonds #1, World of seeds NL crossed with BB, Nirvana NL crossed with BB. Madala Seeds Speed Queen & Hashberry + 2 clones of trinity, northen light, poweplant how old & tall, developed do seeds have to grow b4 cloning?

Well that all depends on what your needs are and what you're working with. If your new mothers were clones then they hopefully are already mature. If so then you only need veg them as long as it takes to get the number of clones you need off each mother. If you only need a few then 3 maybe 4 weeks is enough depends on how fast the strain in question grows. If you need more then you might have to top it a few times in which case you could be looking at 5 to 6 weeks.

Now if the mothers are from seeds, unlessed they're feminized it's best to wait until they mature and show pre-flowers, so you can weed out any males. That can take anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks sometimes longer with certain strains. Also and this is just my personal opinion, it's best, to get the kind of response you want in a SoG anyway, to use clones that are mature. So if maturity is your benchmark then you can go as soon as you see alternating nodes which can be as early as 5 weeks. You still have to determine sex but if the nodes are alternating then the plant's mature. It's been my experience that if you clone an immature plant, the newly rooted clone still wants to mature before it does much in the way of additional growing. In a traditional SoG you flower within a few days to a week of establishing your clones. If those clones are still maturing they won't respond the same as a mature clone.

 

[HempKat]

hempkat..once again thank you for your insight....after reading all your reponses here's my plan....repot this girl in a few days into a smaller pot(less footprint). since my sog is going to be perpetual i have some time before the sog needs much space, im not sure if im ready to manage 30-40 girls at once any way, i'm gonna keep her flowering and around since my clones arent lookin so hot at this point,i will have to do alot of Lst for sure,but then i can harvest, re-veg and then cut some more clones in case these dont make it. i am new to cloning totally, and i think i may have let them get too dry. Also thanks for the input on my soil mix. I kinda wanted it to drain fast, figured it would help buffer my newbie "wanna mess with it factor" and give me something to do...lol! As for the push to get some flowers going, you hit the nail on the head. I've been smokin about 3-4 peoples share of schwag for the last 20 years, i've done my time in the trenches, and am ready for something that doesnt cost me almost mortgage every month or my freedom, doesnt taste like shit, and actully gets me high after a blunt or two.....once again, thanks for all your input. you've made me feel welcome here. Mad Respect to you! i'll post some more pics and keep ya updated if ya wanna watch!
now i off to

You're quite welcome and I perfectly understand if you feel managing a bunch of plants at once is something you're not ready for. If you're truely unsure then I think it's a smart move to do something smaller. You'll get to where you want to be soon enough and once you're there you should never have to pay way too much money for something that should cost at least half less then it does. Plus what you'll have should be better then most any of the stuff on the streets. It's best to get yourself comfortable with what you're doing as you'll be less likely to make costly mistakes.

 

[transplant]

Well that all depends on what your needs are and what you're working with. If your new mothers were clones then they hopefully are already mature. If so then you only need veg them as long as it takes to get the number of clones you need off each mother. If you only need a few then 3 maybe 4 weeks is enough depends on how fast the strain in question grows. If you need more then you might have to top it a few times in which case you could be looking at 5 to 6 weeks.

Now if the mothers are from seeds, unlessed they're feminized it's best to wait until they mature and show pre-flowers, so you can weed out any males. That can take anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks sometimes longer with certain strains. Also and this is just my personal opinion, it's best, to get the kind of response you want in a SoG anyway, to use clones that are mature. So if maturity is your benchmark then you can go as soon as you see alternating nodes which can be as early as 5 weeks. You still have to determine sex but if the nodes are alternating then the plant's mature. It's been my experience that if you clone an immature plant, the newly rooted clone still wants to mature before it does much in the way of additional growing. In a traditional SoG you flower within a few days to a week of establishing your clones. If those clones are still maturing they won't respond the same as a mature clone.

Thank you, I do have a few grows under mt belt. I appreciate your well thought & expressed answers. The plants, seeds, in question are showing female preflowers. I am antsy because when I bloomed my mothers & her generations A cold spell hit I lost 3 domes of clones, then possibly mosiac virus & pests took about 50 out of commision in the bloom room. Now I am behind. I lost 2 cycles because of this. Cloneing in the winter has always been an issue areund here, not just me. It is Nice to have a place like this to go to for help. Thank you for taking the time to help us, & be kind about it as there are so many who arent. I have a MOther clone, veg room that is about 10 X 5...with 6, 400 watts. with shelves to hold trays of clones to feed into a 4 K stadium like Northern Farmer HP STADIUM.

 

[transplant]

1 K M/H wireing

1 K M/H wireing

I just moved from the 6, 400 watts being my bloom room, now veg, to constructing the stadium. I need to know what wire to buy to wire up the 1k mh. Thanks again!

 

[HempKat]

Thank you, I do have a few grows under mt belt. I appreciate your well thought & expressed answers. The plants, seeds, in question are showing female preflowers. I am antsy because when I bloomed my mothers & her generations A cold spell hit I lost 3 domes of clones, then possibly mosiac virus & pests took about 50 out of commision in the bloom room. Now I am behind. I lost 2 cycles because of this. Cloneing in the winter has always been an issue areund here, not just me. It is Nice to have a place like this to go to for help. Thank you for taking the time to help us, & be kind about it as there are so many who arent. I have a MOther clone, veg room that is about 10 X 5...with 6, 400 watts. with shelves to hold trays of clones to feed into a 4 K stadium like Northern Farmer HP STADIUM.

Well with 6 400W lights going in one room I'm surprized you have cool temp issues. I run one 1000W for flower and 4 shoplights with T-8 tube fluoros for veg and clones and that keeps a 16'x 15' room at around 75 degrees F when it's in the 20 degree F range outside. Actually the flower room is a smaller room within that bigger room and it stays around 78 degrees F. There is no additional heat source for these rooms.

As for the clones, there is a method called the water bottle method where each clone gets unclosed in a clear plastic bottle. It seems to work well for me when I clone in the winter and I think it's because it keeps the humidity in the bottle higher then it might stay under a dome? Although it is a tedious process for someone doing a few dozen clones at a time. on the plus side since each clone is in a sealed chamber of it's own until it roots it minimizes the chance for disease or pests to be spread from new clones someone may have given you.

 

[HempKat]

I just moved from the 6, 400 watts being my bloom room, now veg, to constructing the stadium. I need to know what wire to buy to wire up the 1k mh. Thanks again!

Alas that I can't tell you because I'm not an electrician, my usual electrical advice is that if you're not a certified electrician you should find one to do any wiring for you. Faulty wiring can lead to fires and not knowing what your doing when working with electricity can be fatal.

I know many people have managed to do these things on their own without problems and saved money in the process but to me the risks outweigh the savings.

 

[transplant]

Thank you.

 

[311devon]

hermie??????????

hermie??????????

Well if you took clones that's probably the best way to go. Hopefully you took them before putting her into flower. Me personally, I'd still try to get that one into better soil since the old soil and the other growers skills are a big question mark. It may not need it and it may be overkill but at least I'd know what's in the soil. I hear you though on not wanting to stress it any more then it may already have been.

Again, just me personally, I don't know that I'd bother with the mother given her questionable handling. I'd keep her around long enough to see the clones root but that's it. Given that you're set up and geared for a different style of growing then what she's used to it doesn't sound practical to waste electricity to flower just that one plant.

One final thing, that light cycle, going 11-13 might speed up how fast flowers appear in the beginning and how fast buds finish in the end but it's not going to make flowering itself shorter. The length of dark period vs light only signals to the plant whether it should be flowering or vegging, it does not control the length of time to flower. That's genetically hardwired into the plant. The only way to speed up flowering is to say to yourself, "Even though it's not quite ready these buds are good enough for me" and then harvest before the buds are done.

Well hempkat, here i am again. with pics and more ?'s if you dont mind kind sir...i may have found a male flower. Its the only one i can seem to find. but not to sure if it is a male or not. I've grown outdoors before but never have seen the beginiing of flowering since we only had to visit our garden a few times a season. whats your opnion? here are also some shots of the red stems i was talking about. will drowning also color stems like that?

 

[HempKat]

Well hempkat, here i am again. with pics and more ?'s if you dont mind kind sir...i may have found a male flower. Its the only one i can seem to find. but not to sure if it is a male or not. I've grown outdoors before but never have seen the beginiing of flowering since we only had to visit our garden a few times a season. whats your opnion? here are also some shots of the red stems i was talking about. will drowning also color stems like that?

Well in that first pick I can clearly see female flowers but I also see what does look like a male flower but none of the pictures are real clear so I'm not 100% sure. If that is a male flower growing there near female flowers then what you have there is a hermie or a plant with both male and female flowers. Hermies are generally thought of as undesirable as their trait to turn hermie is passed on to the seeds. On the good side though, any seed produced from a hermie should be feminized since no true male genetics were involved.

Hermies generally happen as a plant's expression to stress, given the apparent history of the plant in question it's not all that surprising that the plant went hermie. As far as running an indoor garden, if you got other plants going that are definately females then you should get rid of any hermies as soon as you've identified them, unless you're deliberately trying to make feminized seeds. If it's all you got you can continue to grow it out if you want the smoke but depending on you much goes male it might not yield much worth smoking.

 

[311devon]

i was unclear about hermie suspicion.

i was unclear about hermie suspicion.

Well in that first pick I can clearly see female flowers but I also see what does look like a male flower but none of the pictures are real clear so I'm not 100% sure. If that is a male flower growing there near female flowers then what you have there is a hermie or a plant with both male and female flowers. Hermies are generally thought of as undesirable as their trait to turn hermie is passed on to the seeds. On the good side though, any seed produced from a hermie should be feminized since no true male genetics were involved.

Hermies generally happen as a plant's expression to stress, given the apparent history of the plant in question it's not all that surprising that the plant went hermie. As far as running an indoor garden, if you got other plants going that are definately females then you should get rid of any hermies as soon as you've identified them, unless you're deliberately trying to make feminized seeds. If it's all you got you can continue to grow it out if you want the smoke but depending on you much goes male it might not yield much worth smoking.

hempkat, thank you sir fo your insight once again. I was unclear in my orginal post that this was a hermie and not a male. i found that male flower on a very low if not bottom, scrawny little branch about 4-5" in length. The flower you are looking at is less than a 1/16th of an inch in height. the female flower it is just below is only about 3/4" tall and maybe pencil diameter. Since posting last night i dug out my reading material,compared some photos and determined that yes this is a male flower no doubt. dammit... i got some time this eve and took a good look at her and found 5 or 6 more also on another similar branch very low on the plant. I got out my bonsai nippers and snip snip...bye bye little boys. Cut the whole branch off. had tiny little shaded buds on them and were no more than the diameter of a pencil lead. Here's my latest ?....Assuming this girl is gettin much better care than previous and life is now grand for her will this cease? Or is once hermaphroditism is triggered does it become systemic and irreversible? I really dont want to give up on this girl but there is no way in hell im lettin pollen get into my grow area. one other ? for a while im askin...back to my red stems(the pic in my prev post with three buds in the frame shows these stems)......All the new growth on the plant since transplant is a nice healthy green, is the red a permanant thing once it happens or will it dissappear with time? (assuming it was a nute/soil ph issue and not my 63deg nightime temps.) Thanks once again for lettin me pic your brain!!

 

[HempKat]

hempkat, thank you sir fo your insight once again. I was unclear in my orginal post that this was a hermie and not a male. i found that male flower on a very low if not bottom, scrawny little branch about 4-5" in length. The flower you are looking at is less than a 1/16th of an inch in height. the female flower it is just below is only about 3/4" tall and maybe pencil diameter. Since posting last night i dug out my reading material,compared some photos and determined that yes this is a male flower no doubt. dammit... i got some time this eve and took a good look at her and found 5 or 6 more also on another similar branch very low on the plant. I got out my bonsai nippers and snip snip...bye bye little boys. Cut the whole branch off. had tiny little shaded buds on them and were no more than the diameter of a pencil lead. Here's my latest ?....Assuming this girl is gettin much better care than previous and life is now grand for her will this cease? Or is once hermaphroditism is triggered does it become systemic and irreversible? I really dont want to give up on this girl but there is no way in hell im lettin pollen get into my grow area. one other ? for a while im askin...back to my red stems(the pic in my prev post with three buds in the frame shows these stems)......All the new growth on the plant since transplant is a nice healthy green, is the red a permanant thing once it happens or will it dissappear with time? (assuming it was a nute/soil ph issue and not my 63deg nightime temps.) Thanks once again for lettin me pic your brain!!

Well unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge once a plant goes hermie it stays that way. I've heard people talk about cutting the male parts like you're doing but I've never heard any of them talk about how it was after harvest. So I don't know how well it worked. I do know that hermies can develope inside buds once the buds get going, making it hard to see. So it's possible to do what you're doing but still miss some and then have the pollen infect a grow. So I know this isn't what you want to hear but if you want to make sure your grow stays pollen free then you should get rid of it.

As for the red stems, well like leaves once the stems change colors they don't change back, even if you eliminate what caused them to change color. Now leaves when they change, typically die off afterwards because they no longer have enough chlorophyll to photosynthesize and is therefore a drain on the plant's resources (uses more energy to stay alive, then what it can produce for the plant). So the plant usually just lets that die off. Fortunately stems are different, their function mainly is to transport nutrients and water to the leaves and they can do this whether they're green, red or purple. So no, the stems won't change back either. That's why when you have a problem like a ph imbalance or a nutrient deficiency, you don't look to the damaged leaves to get better. You look to the new growth to make sure the problem isn't spreading there.

Also if the coldest it gets in your room is 63 degrees F then the purpling isn't likely because of the temps. So it could have been a deficiency or it could be a genetic trait. Be careful though, depending on where you measure the temp you might not be getting an accurate picture. Warm air rises and cold air falls, so if you're measuring temps at the top of the plant then the air at the top is likely to be warmer then the air at ground level. So it could be 63 at the top but below 60 at ground level.

 

[jessrabit]

Hey Y'all! I am having an issue with my heat pump. The recently installed unit was a last minute decision made without my consult and has been a DISASTER since day one. After this cycle it is OUT of there. A Fujitsu will be installed but as I have concerns. For this space which is approximately 10x9x10 I am finding the humidity to be very difficult to control at 4 wks. I am running an additional dehumidifier and a 12 inch exhaust in addition to the current system. This is just to control the humidity at 4400 watts and I have yet to add more watts. It is the first split system I have had experience with and I had anticipated being able to run up to 7000 watts. But I am now extremely perplexed by the humidity. Anyone which Fujitsu IAQ I am going to have to go with? 12,000 BTU should handle the space but now I am thinking for my needs I might have to go to 18,000 BTU.
And how do I take into consideration humidity levels in the closed system room?
Cuz what's the point in having a closed room with CO2 if I have to exhaust.
Thank You