indicapimp
Member
What is negative air pressure and explain how to achieve it in an 8x8x8 room for example?
Thanks
Thanks
Hey everyone, I'm in the process of obtaining my med card and been researching extensively on growing. SUPER excited!!
Obviously I still have some questions so here goes.
Plan on using LSTing plants in smart pots w/ Moonshine mix indoor.
What are some good beginner strains that are not as 'popular' as AK-47 and will do well w/ my setup?
Also can I add molasses throughout feedings or will I have to tone it down?
Edit: Forgot to add, strains that are good for pain mgmt, and pest/disease resistant.
What is negative air pressure and explain how to achieve it in an 8x8x8 room for example?
Thanks
Im very new at this and I have some nice plants growing from seed that I dont even no what kind. But they are around 30 days into Veg. and I was thinking of topping them. I have lots of room and am growing under a 150 HPS, Soon to be a 400 HPS and they are just growing like weed's { No pune intended } Im growong in Coco and Canna Nutes.
Thanks for all of the good reading so far.
Rooster449
Hey Old Farts!
I'm an old fart too but not at growing. I have a nice MIS that's been in a pot outside for 8 weeks. It's vegged very nicely but not much in the flowering as of yet. I have some room in my inside tent and want to bring her in for flowering. Just wondering what should I do to minimise the chance of transfering hitchhikers into the tent espically the borg.
thanks,
Can i have differant strains growing in the same 4x4 flood and drain tray? Do i keep indica and sativas apart.
Thanks for the help HempKat!
Well I plan on using 1 600W bulb for flowering in a space around 4x4ish to start out.
About the strain, I guess I'll have to do some more research on it to find something that will work. Either way thanks for clarifying it.
can you veg indoors for 35 days then flower outside for the rest of the harvest?
can you veg indoors for 35 days then flower outside for the rest of the harvest?
Thanks for the Advice, I toped them and they are just doing Great. Im going to put them under a 400 for Budding and keep the 150 for Vedging. I injoy reading your posts and look forward to more Q and A with you.Well first you need to determine if there are any hitchhikers to worry about in the first place. If not then you're good to go. If you do have pests then it depends on your level of comfortability. Most folks aren't comfortable with using pesticides in flower and so when they do they use things like neem oil as it's natural.
i've never heard that you shouldnt let rainwater set for more than a day to use on crops..please xplain that..i've picked up several tips that have already helped me from this thread..thanksWell let me see, first of all, the plants that lost roots they'll probably be affected some as they likely experienced more shock then the one's whose roots came out fine. Worst case scenario should be that they'll be a little slow at first, they'll need about a week or so to recover the roots they lost. So at first the one's that didn't lose roots will probably do well, while the one's losing roots may appear to do nothing or even maybe get a little worse before getting better. If you have superthrive or something like it, it helps stimulate root growth so it may be worthwhile to give them some.
Okay now that I know they were under fluoros I'm guessing the problem was more of an overwatering issue. Fluoros don't give off much heat so soil under fluoros tends to dry more slowly. Also flouros have less energy for the plants to use so they don't stimulate as much growth. This is fine as far as the plants because they're so small but if you can in the future maybe get them under a hid after just 2 weeks of flouros and by 3 weeks to a month they'll be good and ready for a transplant. The problem with flouros is that because there is less heat the soil doesn't dry out as quick so you often get plants where the top is very dry and the bottom very wet. So it can seem like they need water when they really don't. By the soil staying wet the plants aren't as encouraged to grow to find more water. Less roots results in slow growth. Additionally if the soil stays too wet for too long root rot can develope and this prevents the affected roots from working. Although judging by the looks of the plants I don't think you had root rot. Definately after transplanting you'll be needing to wait probably 5 days before watering again. Especially those that were still wet after 3 days. These aren't 100% reliable but a helpful indicator can be these meters you stick deep in the soil to measure moisture. They're found in most garden supply centers and are usually made by a company called rapidtest I believe. They can be helpful to a new grower in determining when their plants need water.
As for the deficiency thing, in general you don't usually need to give plants ferts before three weeks when using enriched soil. That being said, different strains have different requirements. Some go thru nutes faster. Also the soil as a whole may have good nutrition but the particular soil that ended up in a given pot may have less nutrition contained in it then the soil in other pots so even within the same strain or working with clones some plants may seem to do better then others. Because of these variables three weeks is a guideline but not a firm rule. The better rule to go by is that the moment you see signs of deficiency, start feeding. They will be young plants though and added ferts will be new to them so on the first feeding you start at 1/2 or even 1/4 strength depending on the fert and how the plant is doing. If big and growing vigorously I'd say go half strength, if normal or on the small side I'd go 1/4th strength the first feeding, half the next feeding and full strength by the third feeding. Also when feeding it's best to do it like this fert/water one feeding, fert/water then next, just water on every third watering. The reason to do this is to help keep excess salts from the fertalizer from building up a toxicity level in your soil. Judging by what I saw in the pics I'd give all of them a 1/4 strength feeding the next watering.
On those tablets, I'd say give them a try although I don't think they'll do much for you if you are working with chemical based nutes rather then organic. Basically it's a type of fungus that makes up part of what we call the bioherd. The fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plant helping to break down the organics into a form the plant can consume more easily. An equally, if not more effective way to provide this benefit to your plants is to capture and use rain water whenever possible rather then tap or well or store bought water. There are micro organisms in that rain water that will also add to or form a bioherd in the soil. If you do this though try to avoid capturing rain water and then letting it sit for more then a day otherwise it will get funky on you. In general terms anything you can do to improve the bioherd is a good natural enhancement you can provide for your plant. Just be careful in buying stuff like that because these shops charge alot for things like that.
I think overall things will get better. The stronger light should give you more vigorous growth and the added heat will dry the soil a bit quicker. No matter what, with the new soil things should improve because in transplanting the roots are now getting more oxygen and nutrients. It can go back to how it was though if the pots aren't allowed to dry out more before the next watering. This can be hard though because you see such a slow down in the frequency of watering. It can be a real challenge to fight the urge to water as frequently as before the transplant. Especially for new growers with little or no past experiences to draw from.
Thanks for the Advice, I toped them and they are just doing Great. Im going to put them under a 400 for Budding and keep the 150 for Vedging. I injoy reading your posts and look forward to more Q and A with you.
Rooster449