Vertical Scrog

[LSWM]

thanks miraculous, lswm, ichabod,I feel like an idiot pretty sure overwater is the culpret causing the ph to rise. ichabod i'll hand your thread back to you,. and good to hear from snype too. you guys rock your all an inspiration to me. I hope to rise to your caliber someday

Just to make things clear, overwatering isn't an issue with pH; It's an issue with dissolved oxygen or root rot.

EDIT: Underwatering certainly can cause pH issues in Coco. As the coco dries, precipitation happens, and Carbonate buildup happens rather quickly and is not easily dissolved at normal pH ranges.

 

[Snype]

I've been thinking of this thread for the last 24 hours. I see some great ideas here and I'm trying to plan a new room based on this technique but I want to try and take advantage of more lights in multiple hexagons. I wish I had a program or picture to show you guys but I drew it out on paper to try and figure it all out.

If you look at the design as a circle with a hexagon in it, then you can keep adding circles and hexagons no matter how big the room is. If your circle diameter is 48", that means that each line in your hexagon will be 24". The circles will overlap with the outline of the circle going 3.2" into the other circle so that both hexagons form the same line on each other. If you draw it out you'll see that the hexagons can keep repeating forever.

I don't know if anyone has done this yet but I have a design that is 3 circles or 3 hexagons. It's kind of like 2 eyes and a nose below. That would be where the hexagons are placed. If I used 6 plants in each hexagon, you would have to take out a plant where the circles overlap each other and those 3 inter lapping plants would be grown with out a scrog as bushes while the other 12 plants would have the same SCROG as in this thread. In total 3 of these systems would fit 15 plants because of the 3 points where the hexagons meet together. The bulbs that are in the nose circle below could also get additional light as if there were other circles or hexagons on each side but only used for the additional light. I'm probably sounding so confusing right now and wish I could just show the picture. The only problem is if the 3 plants that intersect will be too big for the space. I'll try and get a wire for my camera to take a picture of what I'm talking about in a couple of days.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

I follow what you are saying. What is your goal for that setup?

 

[Miraculous Meds]

I've been thinking of this thread for the last 24 hours. I see some great ideas here and I'm trying to plan a new room based on this technique but I want to try and take advantage of more lights in multiple hexagons. I wish I had a program or picture to show you guys but I drew it out on paper to try and figure it all out.

If you look at the design as a circle with a hexagon in it, then you can keep adding circles and hexagons no matter how big the room is. If your circle diameter is 48", that means that each line in your hexagon will be 24". The circles will overlap with the outline of the circle going 3.2" into the other circle so that both hexagons form the same line on each other. If you draw it out you'll see that the hexagons can keep repeating forever.

I don't know if anyone has done this yet but I have a design that is 3 circles or 3 hexagons. It's kind of like 2 eyes and a nose below. That would be where the hexagons are placed. If I used 6 plants in each hexagon, you would have to take out a plant where the circles overlap each other and those 3 inter lapping plants would be grown with out a scrog as bushes while the other 12 plants would have the same SCROG as in this thread. In total 3 of these systems would fit 15 plants because of the 3 points where the hexagons meet together. The bulbs that are in the nose circle below could also get additional light as if there were other circles or hexagons on each side but only used for the additional light. I'm probably sounding so confusing right now and wish I could just show the picture. The only problem is if the 3 plants that intersect will be too big for the space. I'll try and get a wire for my camera to take a picture of what I'm talking about in a couple of days.

Im with ya on what u want to do. And u are in the right place to get ideas on this, ic has it going on good.

Now I have done the configuration ur talking about but I still used all the plants and screens. I just thought that if I left the reflectix off the back of the screens that ended up back to back, that id get good penetration and let the plant grow in between the screens and get extra yield. It didn't work and turned into larf because I had the front of the screen filled and developed so well the light couldn't penetrate. If I were u I would stick with the screens for each plant. Makes life so much easier to train the plants. And the better u can train is where ur gonna gain that yield.

With the hexagon u are correct about the spacing. Just got to remember if ur gonna build them with the base for the pot to sit on then that will be 6". So it will make ur screen sit back 3" more. So ur distance with a 24" screen will end up being 27" screen to bulb.

I think that's what ic does with his 1k's. I run 600's and 4 sites instead of 6 so my dimensions are tighter to the bulb.

 

[Snype]

I follow what you are saying. What is your goal for that setup?

The goal is 3 circles with 2,000 watts in each circle. Like what you have but instead of a 600 and 1,000 in each circle i'd like to try 2,000 watts per circle. So there would be 6,000 watts in the circles and some additional light on the outsides of the bottom (nose) circle.

Im with ya on what u want to do. And u are in the right place to get ideas on this, ic has it going on good.

Now I have done the configuration ur talking about but I still used all the plants and screens. I just thought that if I left the reflectix off the back of the screens that ended up back to back, that id get good penetration and let the plant grow in between the screens and get extra yield. It didn't work and turned into larf because I had the front of the screen filled and developed so well the light couldn't penetrate. If I were u I would stick with the screens for each plant. Makes life so much easier to train the plants. And the better u can train is where ur gonna gain that yield.

With the hexagon u are correct about the spacing. Just got to remember if ur gonna build them with the base for the pot to sit on then that will be 6". So it will make ur screen sit back 3" more. So ur distance with a 24" screen will end up being 27" screen to bulb.

I think that's what ic does with his 1k's. I run 600's and 4 sites instead of 6 so my dimensions are tighter to the bulb.

The difference is that I wouldn't have the overlapping sections with back to back plants but I don't understand of not trying to take advantage of overlapping light. That's the real bonus for the idea is to blast the overlapping plants with the extra light from the other hexagons.

As far as the SCROG plants go, I don't understand why I can't hang each net from the ceiling instead and the net goes from the ceiling to about 2' away from the floor so I can crawl inside and take care of the plants. It's hard for me to see everything on paper. I'll get a better idea when I'm trying to set it all up.

Or maybe I'll do 2 circles and put additional lights outside the circles as well. Maybe an additional 3,000 watts on each long side and keep all the nets. Maybe the light like that will grow buds on both sides of the net.

 

[Miraculous Meds]

So ur going to be mixing scrog with trees in ur idea. Sounds good but the variation I tried didn't work.

Id at least do 1 screen per stack so u don't have to crawl in there. Use it like a door u swing open to walk in ur donut and train each plant while standing right in front of it. But if u don't mind crawling it will work fine. that's what I did before I adopted the screens. I would never go back after experiencing the ease of training and mobility of each plant being on a separate screen.

 

[Snype]

So ur going to be mixing scrog with trees in ur idea. Sounds good but the variation I tried didn't work.

Id at least do 1 screen per stack so u don't have to crawl in there. Use it like a door u swing open to walk in ur donut and train each plant while standing right in front of it. But if u don't mind crawling it will work fine. that's what I did before I adopted the screens. I would never go back after experiencing the ease of training and mobility of each plant being on a separate screen.

You're right! I'll keep all the screens. I can also add another half a hexagon on each side of the nose circle as well and add another 2 plants. I'm hoping that all this cross light will grow buds on both sides of the screen for the intersecting light.

 

[Miraculous Meds]

good luck with that, but what I was trying to tell u in that earlier post is that if u fill ur screen there will be no light coming out of each stack.

I am going to experiment with putting 4 plants on the ground in the donut. Just a little flat canopy at the height of the pots for ur plants on screens. Got to move them to enter the donut to work but I can see it adding another qp to half p, possibly.

 

[Snype]

good luck with that, but what I was trying to tell u in that earlier post is that if u fill ur screen there will be no light coming out of each stack.

I am going to experiment with putting 4 plants on the ground in the donut. Just a little flat canopy at the height of the pots for ur plants on screens. Got to move them to enter the donut to work but I can see it adding another qp to half p, possibly.

Yeah I understand. The difference is that there will only be 1 plant there instead of 2 plants back to back so that scrog will be getting hit from both sides. I'm hoping that because that scrog will be getting hit from both sides, that it will produce more weight. It's an idea but we will have to see if it still makes sense.

I'm also trying to make a hexagon RDWC system. I think that I can make it work with 120 degree PVC fittings or maybe it's called a 60 degree fitting.

 

[Miraculous Meds]

Cool, cant wait to see it.

Old ic, hope im not steppin on ur toes here. Ic just hand waters and crushes it.

I adopted the ppk, which im getting ready to use as a recirculating system though cause the coco doesn't like being in the water level for me.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

No you are fine. This thread is for people to learn from. Everything I learned pretty much is stolen from others here.

Snype I would be interested to see your set up. I started with a setup like areohead had. Could not keep it cool enough so I went to coco. I can't grow in soil to save my ass. My set up just used 1 1/4 inch gromets set at the correct angles in round buckets. Worked great except for the temps.

I have a dtw setup running now. Seems to be running good.

 

[Miraculous Meds]

Holy shit. DTW, good for u brother!

Ur gonna love it. I cant wait to see how u tackled dtw, in these circles. Its not so cut and dry, like a flat grow on a table but can be done.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

I spent hundreds on fittings to make it work and still be flexible to remove one plant at a time. Ended up d9 had the key to getting it done. Had a few other things that had to be done as well but his was the last piece.

Thanks d9!

 

[Snype]

No you are fine. This thread is for people to learn from. Everything I learned pretty much is stolen from others here.

Snype I would be interested to see your set up. I started with a setup like areohead had. Could not keep it cool enough so I went to coco. I can't grow in soil to save my ass. My set up just used 1 1/4 inch gromets set at the correct angles in round buckets. Worked great except for the temps.

I have a dtw setup running now. Seems to be running good.

I'll take some pics as the progress goes. I'll probably end up using that PVC hexagon that you designed. It looks real nice!

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Hope it works for you.

 

[packerfan79]

just an update, WE GOT PISTILS TODAY I skipped watering lastnight. I guess you can over water coco. lol thanks again, miraculous, mr. crane( thanks again for letting me hijack your thread), lswm and anyone i'm forgetting. i'm sure it won't be a record yeilds but I think I can pull it off with jacks. I guess i'll have to check the pots for weight to see when to water.

 

[LSWM]

I guess i'll have to check the pots for weight to see when to water.

Once you get this down it's smooth sailing... You'll also learn to water freshly transplanted ladies NOT UNTIL RUNOFF. You can definitely over saturate coco and it slows down root development at this transplant stage.

I have been hitting these fresh transplants in 1 gal pots of coco with only ~12 oz of solution. They don't get to runoff without 16-24 oz. So long as you give them a good soaking once every week or two to flush out excess salts, you get much quicker growth than watering to runoff everytime.

 

[LSWM]

Hey Snype! I've been running a similar setup this last two runs but only with 2 donuts.

I run octagon shaped screens and had the trays/screens pushed up against one another, only leaving ~4 inches in between to reach in and tie back the plants. The nugs on the screens here definitely filled out more, and benefited from the excess light from the opposite bulbs.

I think you are on the right track! Just remember access begins to turn into a serious bitch the closer everything is put together. Good luck!

 

[Ushade]

This is truly interesting... Love it!

 

[megayields]

I spent hundreds on fittings to make it work and still be flexible to remove one plant at a time. ......


Ichy grows using "hard mode"