hahaha, thats what I always tell myself when my friends try to convince me i should settle down again
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Unclefishstick's Guide to Home Bicycle Repair
- Thread starter unclefishstick
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hahaha, thats what I always tell myself when my friends try to convince me i should settle down again
Remember I had said I bought some of those Boveda humidipacks.
Well I must say they do as advertised. I was going to buy some C-Vaults but instead just got the packs and for now am using a large tote. I got the 62% ones.
Been steady for days.
Well I must say they do as advertised. I was going to buy some C-Vaults but instead just got the packs and for now am using a large tote. I got the 62% ones.
Been steady for days.
mk I've been researchin lol ( I know, right ) For root aphids and any other pest that may come crawlin I was thinkin pyrethrin or sns 203. I can get those locally anything else Ima have to order. What do you fellaz think? Order somethin or 1 of these 2?
never dealt with either of them G 
3rd ... how big a container do those work for ? or really meant ask is how small of a container ??? i've got one that holds a HP .... would they work in that or would i need a tote ???
Lotta stix in that there tote son !!!
3rd ... how big a container do those work for ? or really meant ask is how small of a container ??? i've got one that holds a HP .... would they work in that or would i need a tote ???
Lotta stix in that there tote son !!!
Dans, i think i might try a fan controller n slow it down at night and see if that does anything. I also keep my house set at 65 so i suppose i could bump it up a few degrees at night and see if that changes anything. thanks for the ideas....gonna try the second one tonight
Yeah 3rd, I was wonderin the same (about the stix lol). I checked them out and the number of packs used is determined by the container size
Yeah different size(gram)packets for different size/weight containers.
Yup, I sweat my buds on the stem. Goes a little bit slower but better in my opinion.
Ohhh, I know what you're thinking, NO, I don't weigh my shit on the stem lol.
Yup, I sweat my buds on the stem. Goes a little bit slower but better in my opinion.
Ohhh, I know what you're thinking, NO, I don't weigh my shit on the stem lol.
what size tote?
I never said that !!! Did you G ????
That's a 28 quart tote.
I have used those Third. They do work very well. I put the small packet in the jars. I got lazy did not buy anymore. I dont really need them.
JUST BE CAREFULL. THE BOTTON BUDS WILL BE ALOT MORE WET THEN THE TOP EVEN WITH THOSE. PUT YOUR METER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PILE.
JUST BE CAREFULL. THE BOTTON BUDS WILL BE ALOT MORE WET THEN THE TOP EVEN WITH THOSE. PUT YOUR METER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PILE.
Good to know, I do open it every day and shuffle the twiggy sticks around and let the humidity drop to like 50% and then close it back up.
lol,bustin thirds twiggy chops tonight eh?
well i didnt get my tray stand done since i stupidly got 1 1/2 inch pvc rather than 1 1/4 inch which is what i used on the rest of it...but i did get the clone up potted and moved into the tray sitting on buckets so at least that parts done...
getting ready to pull the chemdog99 and grom x gk out...got the 45 gallon glue sitting in the kitchen ready to get heaved into place...
well i didnt get my tray stand done since i stupidly got 1 1/2 inch pvc rather than 1 1/4 inch which is what i used on the rest of it...but i did get the clone up potted and moved into the tray sitting on buckets so at least that parts done...
getting ready to pull the chemdog99 and grom x gk out...got the 45 gallon glue sitting in the kitchen ready to get heaved into place...
Predatory nematodes, or Beauvaria bassiana are MY choices...
for the chemical choices... I will copy paste
***************Chemicals*****************
When I saw the first creepy crawler I thought "it's so easy! I'll just kill them with pyrethrum and neem!" - Wrong. Do not go this route! Even neem extract (azadirachtin) does not seem to effectively control these pests, especially at in a cost-effective manner. Almost all reports of neem and pyrethrum use have stated some death but that they come back... and the plant is damaged by the oils etc... and the bugs are going strong again before the plant is. This is especially the case with neem oil itself, but in general - the higher concentration of azadirachtin or pyrethrins you use, the more killing you will do and the more you will hurt the plant (and there will inevitably be many more aphids hatching or that were not affected). That said - I clearly do not recommend any neem or pyrethrin-based approaches.
Notes on application:
-Applications should be done in sequence, according to your room/root temps. Always do 2-3 applications spaced apart by 3-6 days; this will ensure you get new eggs when they hatch. The higher your room temp the sooner you should re-apply.
*******Systemics (chemicals taken into plant tissue)********
-Imidacloprid is the main solution people have mentioned so far (most tried in online forums). It was mentioned in the thread started by Scay Beez, and it has worked well so many people have tried it and posted generally good results, perpetuating its usage. It is systemic, apparently being absorbed into the plant and staying around for a while - though the article "Some-Aphids-Go-Deep" linked below suggests that imid often does not work as well in pots if it gets washed out of the soil (if plants are heavily/over-watered after application). Imid also seems to kill to some extent on contact. Imid is probably not that harmful to the microherd, though I can't be certain.
-Like most systemics (Avid, FloraMite) the effectiveness of the systemic wears off long before the chemical is gone from the plant - this means that the Imid may help control aphids for perhaps a couple weeks but is around in the plant for at least a couple months - for this reason it is roundly suggested that imid only be used in the vegetative stage or around 60 days from harvest. In the agricultural industry there is around a 21-30 day PHI (pre-harvest interval) standard with imid for most fruits and vegetables - though it is worth noting that beets, for example (21 day PHI), are generally sprayed on the leaves rather than treated in the soil. It is likely that more of the substance is taken into the plant through the roots when applied to combat root aphids, that it is more widely distributed through the plant and that it is around for longer since it can remain in the medium.
-The main sources of imid people have mentioned are: Merit 75 (one of the strongest) - and Marathon - though both are a somewhat expensive up-front investment).
-Bayer "Tree & Shrub," Monterrey "Once a Year Insect Control" and Green Light "Tree and Shrub" a re all the easiest to acquire, cheapest sources of imid which are alternatives to the high-concentration versions available (Merit 75 etc). Each of these products are only 1.47% imid. Monterrey may be the cheapest of the lot. There are a few other Bayer products that also have Imid in them as well with other chemicals or with nutrients in them, but at lower concentrations of imid than the Tree and Shrub. Bayer "Complete Insect Killer" is imid + B-Cyfluthrin at half the concentration of imid. Bayer also has a "Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control" product that is also imid at the lowest concentrations. - There is no reason to believe this version is less toxic or breaks down faster - it just has less imid in it for your $. The more imid you use and the later you use it the longer/more it will be around at harvest. Being far more dilute than the Merit/Marathon imid products, these imid products are less dangerous to handle/breathe and are available at hardware sores - look up the names in Google to see what the bottles look like. Bayer bottles are blue.
-People have said that Bayer Tree and Shrub (1.47% imid) is effective at 4-5 mL/gal - if you are already into bloom or are running a recirculating system I would recommend this dosage. bali_man has recommended people try upping the dosage 5X as they will see more dramatic results. If you only plan to apply it once or are at least 50 days from harvest, I would suggest this option.
-Imid is the same substance used in Advantage and Frontline for pets - it is based off nicotine and probably has similar toxicity. It smells like Advantage though (bllluugghhh), and is probably not great for you to get on your skin, as it is probably easily absorbed.
-Acephate ("Orthene", "Lancer", "Pinpoint", "Payload" etc.) is another systemic that was mentioned in the article linked below as one of the most effective kilers of root aphids but is also an organophosphate that seems to be somewhat toxic - it is fetotoxic (harmful to fetuses), suspected to be neurotoxic, possibly carcinogenic and has a strong odor/vapor that should not be inhaled much. The Acephate I looked into says specifically not to use in indoor residential settings. As with most serious/harmful pesticides etc: Do NOT spray this stuff indoors! (please read up below and in a few other places if considering using)! Handle water/waste water/medium with this (and other nasty chems) with caution and protective gloves/clothing. Do not use this or other nasty chems in an aero system! Imid should be fine.
well he sux so why not.
I don't get the pack thingy tho. If mine gets to dry I toss in a fan leaf or 2 works wonders.
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