Tips of fan leaves turning purple

[Safe Gardener]

Either or both, as it will reduce the light intensity.
Were the plants growing healthy after your final transplant, before you put them into flower? (or in early flower) ? if not then that may have compromised them a bit. as would being completely rootbound before you transplanted them.
VG

I’ll turn then down at lights on this evening. I’m going say a little from column A and a little from column B as far as plant/root health at transplant. It was root bound to some degree but grew really well for a few weeks before I put it in flower.

 

[Ca++]

Batteries replaced, I’ll have a high and low temp tomorrow. I run lights on 5PM -5AM, If I were to guess I’d say high temps with lights on is no more than 80F. Will update after a day with the thermometer/hydrometer in the tent. Air movement is less than I’ve provided in the past also. I’m only relying on air exchange from the 4” duct fan feeding my DIY 5 gallon carbon scrubber. Maybe add a fan in the tent?

Hard to comment on your extraction, but the temps will be useful.
It's not a cellar floor is it? That can chill the pots unexpectedly.

Lots of heavy dry-backs to wilting may be key here. Roots can only be dry for a while, and once into bloom, many plants won't grow more. P fixation in dry soils is a thing to, and I reckon that's what's niggling me. Heavy dry backs, cold floor, cold water, I think that is where I have seen this indoors. A cellar I left to a friend when I moved out. So I could never really say what the problem was, as he created a list of them.

 

[Safe Gardener]

It's not a cellar floor is it? That can chill the pots unexpectedly.

Lots of heavy dry-backs to wilting may be key here. Roots can only be dry for a while, and once into bloom, many plants won't grow more. P fixation in dry soils is a thing to, and I reckon that's what's niggling me. Heavy dry backs, cold floor, cold water, I think that is where I have seen this indoors. A cellar I left to a friend when I moved out. So I could never really say what the problem was, as he created a list of them.

You hit the nail on the head with the basement floor. I usually use a platform to keep them off the floor but wanted the extra space this summer for a seed run that I did. Didn’t even think about it for the fall. I’m about out of space but I’ll see if I can get a 1” of so off the floor.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I’ll know daily high and low temps soon. Just replaced the batteries in the thermometer/hydrometer.

I’d have expected the soil mix to be a little heavy on the nitrogen but I can add some if they continue to yellow.

I don't know what nutrient solution you're using, however when they start to flower you should go from 5-5-5 in veg, to 10-5-5 in flower, and slowly increase the nutrient concentration until the nutrient deficiency goes away.

 

[PadawanWarrior]

I don't know what nutrient solution you're using, however when they start to flower you should go from 5-5-5 in veg, to 10-5-5 in flower, and slowly increase the nutrient concentration until the nutrient deficiency goes away.

I think you have that backwards. In flower you want less N.

You hit the nail on the head with the basement floor. I usually use a platform to keep them off the floor but wanted the extra space this summer for a seed run that I did. Didn’t even think about it for the fall. I’m about out of space but I’ll see if I can get a 1” of so off the floor.

I agree with @Ca++ . P deficiency. Maybe some molybdenum deficiency too, but mainly P.

 

[Safe Gardener]

Thanks everyone for there thoughts and suggestions. I’m going to try and address a P deficiency. About 7 weeks to go. Below are pictures of the floor temp after an hour or so to settle and one right around canopy height. I’ll keep my grow diary going until the end of flower.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I think you have that backwards. In flower you want less N.

That's what everyone else thinks - and they're wrong.

Look around the internet for pictures of plants in flower - and check out the chlorotic leaves, a typical sign of nitrogen deficiency.

The book of nature is always open. - Sepp Holzer

 

[PadawanWarrior]

That's what everyone else thinks - and they're wrong.

Look around the internet for pictures of plants in flower - and check out the chlorotic leaves, a typical sign of nitrogen deficiency.

The book of nature is always open. - Sepp Holzer

I agree they still need N in flower, but they want less towards the end. I didn't read this thread very close but I often get P deficiency in flower with organic soil. Here's a side by side of coco with salts and notill soil.

GG4 Monster Crop

Some trich shots from yesterday. Day 97.

www.icmag.com

 

[Ca++]

I think you have that backwards. In flower you want less N.


I agree with @Ca++ . P deficiency. Maybe some molybdenum deficiency too, but mainly P.

I wanted to say Mo, but couldn't back it up with an internet search. A high pH is usually involved with the small stuffs availability.

Temps look alright. I wouldn't call 20c cold, and I guess this is general cellar temp. Maybe this is blowing in on plants, the thermometer isn't near. Probably not though, it's just something I can't rule out from here.
The hard dry-backs are looking more likely than temps (as long as you are not watering them with cold water). Fixed P can be released with soil acids. Humic/fulvic users often have to lower their EC as it's effective. It's not ideal in flower, and in a perfect crop, might be best avoided. People never report seeing a negative effect though. It's more theoretical. The soil acids might also address any high pH issues, that we don't know of. It doesn't seem unreasonable, but might not be very quick. Unlike a high P feed (biobizz comes in mind)

I guess the 67f isn't the floor, it's air near the floor. The floors is likely colder. Camping mats reduced in price locally? Carpet sample book? Foam floor tiles? Any of these might be better topped by a hard surface, such as sign board. Here that board is corrugated, but other countries use expanded foam. They are probably good firm insulation. Foamex I think it's called. I might just use a couple of strips of wood under each, and have a air flow under them. So many options..

 

[mr.brunch]

I use an old stair gate lying flat, like the type used for keeping pets out of rooms… plants sit on it keeping the pots a few cm off the floor, allows airflow and drainage.
In the autumn/winter I use a tubular greenhouse heater (only 30w), keeps the soil temperature a little warmer

 

[Orange's Greenhouse]

Your plants have many issues. It's unlikely a fertilizer problem but an environmental.

Are you using co2? If yes then everything below can be ignored

32 °C at at the canopy is a bit high, even with LED. 28 °C are ideal. Are your pots touching the ground directly or is there a gap? If they touch it, then root temperatures are a bit low. Elevating them to break thermal contact solves that. Also the light intensity is high. It's difficult to convert watts into ppfd but most people aim at 375 W/m² (40 % less).

Basically you're pushing them really hard with that much light and have a suboptimal environment. Reduce the light and then optimize everything else. When you have everything figured out you can turn the dial on the light back to 11.

 

[wisemadman]

i had that happen while growing with temps around or a little below 20 C