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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

mendo420

Active member
Veteran
Is this product safe to use indoor? WTF

If you you have to suit up like this. Do you think it's ok to use this product?
 
Y

YosemiteSam

I have my tent exhausting into the attic, would it be safe to stay at home?

You are spraying poison on the plants you are suppose to love and in a house...on the people you are suppose to love.

If it sounds like a good idea to you go ahead. If not...learn how to get your sap pH up to 6.4 and quit worrying about it. Your call.
 

paladin420

FACILITATOR
Veteran
I use so little I don't glove/mask up. One quick spray at my washing station and put her in flower.

I don't snort it or wash in it ;)
 

paladin420

FACILITATOR
Veteran
You are spraying poison on the plants you are suppose to love and in a house...on the people you are suppose to love.

If it sounds like a good idea to you go ahead. If not...learn how to get your sap pH up to 6.4 and quit worrying about it. Your call.

I would love to learn how. Or even how to test my sap.

I get u don't use it or recommend it Yo. But I also read in hydro I may not be able to get it that high (or low).
 

Frog

Member
I broke down and got some of the Eagle 20. I've been fighting the PM for years and have a sulfur burner , I do the zone/penetrator which works well but it comes back.
Sprayed the girls tonight with the Eagle 20 .
I see where everyone says this works buttttt I need to see it to believe it .
I will update when the verdict is in.
 

Frog

Member
Well it's been 8 days since I sprayed the girls with the Eagle 20. Looks good so far . No new growth of the PM. Spray once and let it do it's thing. Easyer than spraying with the zone and penitratior 5-6 times . I plan on giving another bath with the eagle 20 before I put them into flower.
Looking forward to not having to smoke any more PM. Liking this so far.
 

naturalmedicine

New member
I sprayed once with Eagle 20 and then again two weeks later. That was two weeks ago and I am still in veg. It has made the plants darker green, it has made the stocks a lot thicker and it has kept the plants extremely short. The plants that I have that stretch a lot are growing like they have an average stretch. The plants that normally have an average stretch are not stretching at all. Has anyone else experienced this. It seems to have gotten rid of the PM. I have not seen any yet but I will keep an eye out for it through harvest.
 

vertigo0007

Member
I sprayed once with Eagle 20 and then again two weeks later. That was two weeks ago and I am still in veg. It has made the plants darker green, it has made the stocks a lot thicker and it has kept the plants extremely short. The plants that I have that stretch a lot are growing like they have an average stretch. The plants that normally have an average stretch are not stretching at all. Has anyone else experienced this. It seems to have gotten rid of the PM. I have not seen any yet but I will keep an eye out for it through harvest.

Whaaaaaaaat?
 

vertigo0007

Member
I sprayed once with Eagle 20 and then again two weeks later. That was two weeks ago and I am still in veg. It has made the plants darker green, it has made the stocks a lot thicker and it has kept the plants extremely short. The plants that I have that stretch a lot are growing like they have an average stretch. The plants that normally have an average stretch are not stretching at all. Has anyone else experienced this. It seems to have gotten rid of the PM. I have not seen any yet but I will keep an eye out for it through harvest.

Whaaaaaaaat? Mycobutanil does not stop stretch.
 

naturalmedicine

New member
Whaaaaaaaat? Mycobutanil does not stop stretch.


Yeah. I'm wondering if the two doses in two weekes had something to do with it. I'm not sure why they are all shorter and stockier than before. There are 5 different strains and they are all growing like that. I have not fed them anything. They are in Ocean Forest and getting watered with pure H20.
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
Yeah. I'm wondering if the two doses in two weekes had something to do with it. I'm not sure why they are all shorter and stockier than before. There are 5 different strains and they are all growing like that. I have not fed them anything. They are in Ocean Forest and getting watered with pure H20.

Because it colder in the winter.
 

jdkronyk101

Active member
IMHO the best way is a sulfur burner. burn once in veg and once when your 10 days in flowering. ive never had an issue with pm since using a burner

understanding pm's lifecycle can put this in a better light...if you have pm, and you use a sulfer burner, and keep using it as a "preventative" you have prevented nothing at all. powdery mildew is a systemic fungal infection and sulfur only prevents the final stage ie:spores from forming on the leafs surface by regulating the ph of said surface to an unacceptable level for the fungus to fruit spores...your plants are still very much sick. once a plant has pm, it has it period, weather or not it fruits or you can see it.
using Pure Analytics testing process we found pm to be detectable via microscope weather or not it could be seen on the plant surface. furthermore we also found that in most cases the grower had thought he/she had controlled/or wiped out the infection completely by using any combination of products available at the local hydro store. often times the infection was so extensive they could not pass/approve the product for medical use even though the grower hadn't seen pm in months or even years.

upon using systemic products like banner maxx, and eagle 20 the infections were wiped out at the cellular level completely. if either of those products were found to be sprayed within 20-30 days prior to harvest the chemicals themselves could be detected, and subsequently the product could not achieve a "medical" grading...

when either of these products were used in the mother rooms, and vegetive states only,not only could the chems not be detected at the cellular level by any means of testing, we also found you could easily rely on an organic product like "actinovate" used up to 6-7 weeks into flower to then rid any accidental contaminations. its also been found that generally its the grower himself who contaminates the garden (usually by buying or trading cuts,or visiting a contaminated grow). and when either of the above chemical products were used in the vegetive or mothering process pm as a whole will not occur unless the garden is re-contaminated. and even then only the new(untreated) cuts were infected...

rules of thumb :
1. all cuts i didnt make mysself are dirty with pm & bugs and should be sterilized immediately before contamination occurs (quarrintine)...
2. keep your mother room sterile...period...run your flower room organic...

dont get me wrong the brix/sap tricks are proven. the perfect enviroment theory is valid... but just wait till you come across that cut you've always been waiting for. you just have to get it... and you get it from john/jane doe... if its infected...well good luck...i really hope that doin nothing and relying on perfection in an enviroment full of ever changing variables works out for ya...
 
understanding pm's lifecycle can put this in a better light...if you have pm, and you use a sulfer burner, and keep using it as a "preventative" you have prevented nothing at all. powdery mildew is a systemic fungal infection and sulfur only prevents the final stage ie:spores from forming on the leafs surface by regulating the ph of said surface to an unacceptable level for the fungus to fruit spores...your plants are still very much sick. once a plant has pm, it has it period, weather or not it fruits or you can see it.
using Pure Analytics testing process we found pm to be detectable via microscope weather or not it could be seen on the plant surface. furthermore we also found that in most cases the grower had thought he/she had controlled/or wiped out the infection completely by using any combination of products available at the local hydro store. often times the infection was so extensive they could not pass/approve the product for medical use even though the grower hadn't seen pm in months or even years.

upon using systemic products like banner maxx, and eagle 20 the infections were wiped out at the cellular level completely. if either of those products were found to be sprayed within 20-30 days prior to harvest the chemicals themselves could be detected, and subsequently the product could not achieve a "medical" grading...

when either of these products were used in the mother rooms, and vegetive states only,not only could the chems not be detected at the cellular level by any means of testing, we also found you could easily rely on an organic product like "actinovate" used up to 6-7 weeks into flower to then rid any accidental contaminations. its also been found that generally its the grower himself who contaminates the garden (usually by buying or trading cuts,or visiting a contaminated grow). and when either of the above chemical products were used in the vegetive or mothering process pm as a whole will not occur unless the garden is re-contaminated. and even then only the new(untreated) cuts were infected...

rules of thumb :
1. all cuts i didnt make mysself are dirty with pm & bugs and should be sterilized immediately before contamination occurs (quarrintine)...
2. keep your mother room sterile...period...run your flower room organic...

dont get me wrong the brix/sap tricks are proven. the perfect enviroment theory is valid... but just wait till you come across that cut you've always been waiting for. you just have to get it... and you get it from john/jane doe... if its infected...well good luck...i really hope that doin nothing and relying on perfection in an enviroment full of ever changing variables works out for ya...

Care to back up your claim that PM is systemic? Do you have research that shows it moves inside through the xylem and phloem and can complete its life cycle inside the plant?

PM mycelium grows superficially across the leaf surface and penetrates the epidermis with special cells called haustorium that sap nutrition from the plant. These are the only structures that are actually inside the plant. The vegetative and reproductive structures are located on the surface of the leaf.

PM does not originate internally from the plant and is considered an obigate biotroph.
 
C

c-ray

the key is to have a quarantine space to sanitize and 'convert' any low brix import plants into high brix'ers... at our place we call it the gauntlet..
 

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