Have has the same bottle for 4-5 years and gave more of it to members, then I used myself...
Paid for it self 6,000,000 times over....
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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
Have has the same bottle for 4-5 years and gave more of it to members, then I used myself...
Paid for it self 6,000,000 times over....
In the past E20 has worked well but in a large perpetual tree situation it seems it never realy fully eradicated the problem. It was however part, E20 then Sovran a few days later then another round. I also found that with dwc I could add the sovran in small doses to the rez a few days before change out. E20 is the bomb and I can only thank krunch for the help. If the PM keeps coming I like Sovranhttp://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/sovran-fungicide-1-25-pounds-357.html. 1
yea see I was gana say that when it comes to it....what works for 1 may not work for the other...never heard of Actinovate but kewl...another to add to the list...I could add some off the shelf that did absolutely nothing and cost me a few $$ to even try them...uugh..
but I run a 3-4 layer multi room perpetual..so under these conditions and so many plants and spaces things can thrive ya really gata be on your A game..the worst thing in the world is going back to check on a room a wk or so from harvest to see the wrong kinda white shit all over the pants...heh...
My main goal is Low need for these applications...So to keep it as low as possible I only really spray 2x a set...or 1x every 2 mo...like this...
Start by spraying both veg /bloom fully-head to tail...Now if the room has already been cleaned this is only preventative...If there is PM already than this is only step 1 cause you still need to find the source..which is usually to high RH and super easy to fix by less watering and drying the rooms out more in between...
So if the room is ok to start and its just a cover coat than after a month or 2 the plants are ready to flip and bloom should be clearing out...So then about a wk or so into bloom I do another prevention spray...thats it...Now in the past with any other prod I would see PM within 2wks...with E20 its hold it off even better...But gata say Specrta keept hat shit in check..
Now if a grower asked me what to do 3wks before chop for PM?...I'd prob suggest E20 as it is a lil safer for consumption...which is the Main catch for E20...
In no way would I ever advise using Spectra or any prod with insecticides after first 2-3wks of bloom...but E20 has the benefit of being able to be used in those extra situations..But as said it really can't knock it all out all the time...So I treat the rooms with the strong junk first..and try to keep it in a cycling type method...
It really is about what position your in..Small digs with minimal plants should be easy for any grower to maintain...Its when we get all to big for our britches that ole mother nature puts us right in check..heh.....
nice convo gentz and keep rollin
FOE20
but I run a 3-4 layer multi room perpetual..so under these conditions and so many plants and spaces things can thrive ya really gata be on your A game..the worst thing in the world is going back to check on a room a wk or so from harvest to see the wrong kinda white shit all over the pants...heh...
My main goal is Low need for these applications...So to keep it as low as possible I only really spray 2x a set...or 1x every 2 mo...like this...
Start by spraying both veg /bloom fully-head to tail...Now if the room has already been cleaned this is only preventative...If there is PM already than this is only step 1 cause you still need to find the source..which is usually to high RH and super easy to fix by less watering and drying the rooms out more in between...
So if the room is ok to start and its just a cover coat than after a month or 2 the plants are ready to flip and bloom should be clearing out...So then about a wk or so into bloom I do another prevention spray...thats it...Now in the past with any other prod I would see PM within 2wks...with E20 its hold it off even better...But gata say Specrta keept hat shit in check..
Now if a grower asked me what to do 3wks before chop for PM?...I'd prob suggest E20 as it is a lil safer for consumption...which is the Main catch for E20...
In no way would I ever advise using Spectra or any prod with insecticides after first 2-3wks of bloom...but E20 has the benefit of being able to be used in those extra situations..But as said it really can't knock it all out all the time...So I treat the rooms with the strong junk first..and try to keep it in a cycling type method...
It really is about what position your in..Small digs with minimal plants should be easy for any grower to maintain...Its when we get all to big for our britches that ole mother nature puts us right in check..heh.....
nice convo gentz and keep rollin
FOE20
actinovate barely did anything to prevent PM on our outdoor crops...i skipped the e20 this year because of my lame attempt at being fully organic and luckily i didnt lose any tops to PM...but the popcorns that i left out for another month because i was too lazy to harvest or throw out all got PM...they started contracting it early november during the storms and drop in temps..certain strains got hit bad (OG) but others toughed it out and some have none (cherry pie)
next year, definately breaking out the E20 so i can harvest well into november...
next year, definately breaking out the E20 so i can harvest well into november...
Just what the growing community needs is bad advice like this....
How is E20 safer for consumption? Safer than what?
You guys are LAME!
You cant use it in BUD!
How about an Organic solution?
Like Oxidate or just Sulfur or just get some PM wash.
How is E20 safer for consumption? Safer than what?
You guys are LAME!
You cant use it in BUD!
How about an Organic solution?
Like Oxidate or just Sulfur or just get some PM wash.
I think oxidate has PAA, not listed on label. PAA is a stabilizer and a fungicide.
vertigo0007
Member
S
SeaMaiden
Yes. It's also another peroxide, which is used in the food industry for sanitization. Paracetic acid is what PAA is.
Better still? NOTHING develops resistance to it. Unlike Eagle20.
Yes. It's also another peroxide, which is used in the food industry for sanitization. Paracetic acid is what PAA is.
Better still? NOTHING develops resistance to it. Unlike Eagle20.
YOU have never used Eagle20...
And there HAS NOT been ONE case in this entire thread, pertaining to any resistance at all, including ME who have been using this longer then anyone here....
Fucking sideline speculation bullshit....
Stick to your bandaids and half ass cures, but keep it out of here...
kinda with ya Krunch...you got your hands full here...heh...power to it man
to each their own and lets try to be civil to start...when your weed makes ya bitter maybe ya should do something else in life ya know...I've done this long enough to know what works or not in allot of situations..not just my own...but I also dont condemn other options..
I don't personally spray my buds..
I spray the plants/foliage quite early before "budset" as the method states...
and what you cats suggest "may" fix it...which may work fine for kid croppers/small timers..try that in a 50k sq ft dome and see how much it runs you in Oxy, Activ, E20 or bout any off shelf product...
and even the 1 point thats being highlighted was a "what if "..
so much for open minded..and I guess you could go buy 50lbs of sulfur to and burn away...
Im just trying to be helpful and having a nice convo..
thnx for the neg vibes...gl
FOE20
to each their own and lets try to be civil to start...when your weed makes ya bitter maybe ya should do something else in life ya know...I've done this long enough to know what works or not in allot of situations..not just my own...but I also dont condemn other options..
I don't personally spray my buds..
I spray the plants/foliage quite early before "budset" as the method states...
and what you cats suggest "may" fix it...which may work fine for kid croppers/small timers..try that in a 50k sq ft dome and see how much it runs you in Oxy, Activ, E20 or bout any off shelf product...
and even the 1 point thats being highlighted was a "what if "..
so much for open minded..and I guess you could go buy 50lbs of sulfur to and burn away...
Im just trying to be helpful and having a nice convo..
thnx for the neg vibes...gl
FOE20
I hate to disagree, but I know a crew of dudes in Oakland running a fuck-ton of beams, and they can't dial their air in for shit. They spray Eagle 20 all through veg and up to week 3-4 in flower. They still get 70% RH with lights off in late flower, and the PM just keeps coming back. They switched it up to Heritage and it worked for a while, but even that wasn't cutting it anymore. They now de-fan the plants to a pretty scary point where they don't put out much as a compromise to dealing with the PM. I've been telling em that they just need a couple of Santa Fe's in their rooms and it would fix their shit, but they are old, stubborn, and greedy. But yea, looks like they had some serious chemical resistance buildup, and this is on a large scale, saw it with my own eyes!
Enjoy your Harborside nugs, folks!
Enjoy your Harborside nugs, folks!
S
SeaMaiden
Actually, yes, I have used it. ONCE. I won't use it again.
Now, let's go with your assertion that I'm speculating. This suggests to me that you're using the shit out of E20 and haven't done one iota of due diligence; i.e. research and reading. The problem of resistance in ALL single site mode of action 'cides' is commonly known and reported in the scientific literature. The problem of resistance specifically to E20 is, again, reported in the scientific literature.
Would you like me to spoon feed it to you? I can do that.
FOE, get your pesticide ID# and you'll be able to buy the agricultural sizes of OxiDate, Actinovate, etc. You know, the stuff that's meant to be used on acreage.
Actually, yes, I have used it. ONCE. I won't use it again.
Now, let's go with your assertion that I'm speculating. This suggests to me that you're using the shit out of E20 and haven't done one iota of due diligence; i.e. research and reading. The problem of resistance in ALL single site mode of action 'cides' is commonly known and reported in the scientific literature. The problem of resistance specifically to E20 is, again, reported in the scientific literature.
Would you like me to spoon feed it to you? I can do that.
FOE, get your pesticide ID# and you'll be able to buy the agricultural sizes of OxiDate, Actinovate, etc. You know, the stuff that's meant to be used on acreage.
Or find a friend in the biz...Picking up my 2.5 gallons of Oxidate next week! Not that'll need that much, but hey, that's how (smallest size) he gets it.
Burning Tree
Member
YOWZA!
One of the reasons we need testing facilities to concentrate on analyzing samples agaisnt known fungacides/pesticides in this industry. Oh well seems its easier to sell a bud labeled 35% THC than contamination free!
