THE ULTIMATE PERSONAL PROFESSIONAL HASH PRESS FOR UNDER 20 BUCKS !!

[HempKat]

I told someone about this press but at the Michael's in his area they were sold out with no plans to restock so I searched for a good online source and found this which is the site of the main distributor at least in the US for MaKin's products. This press is a bit pricier at $45.99 but it's made of stainless steel and appears to be slightly larger around although somewhat shorter, looks like it might make nickle size pucks instead of dime size? The key point though is that being stainless steel rather then aluminum it's more durable.

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4896325

Anyway I figured I should post the link here for any who our interested.

 

[rifishman]

in the USA, K-Mart has the item as well. It is on their website as "Makin's Professional Ultimate Clay Extruder-21 Pieces" and sells for $24.99.

I am going to the local K-Mart in my area to see if they have them.

 

[Pipedream]

They still stock them in most Michael's, at least in my area.
They're out there and worth looking for.

HK, I've seen the stainless ones before and thought about buying one. However my aluminum one is holding up fine for now. WHen and if it does give up the ghost, I'll get one. I believe on one or two of the earlier pages a couple of folks had bought them and threw up some pic's.

 

[HempKat]

They still stock them in most Michael's, at least in my area.
They're out there and worth looking for.

HK, I've seen the stainless ones before and thought about buying one. However my aluminum one is holding up fine for now. WHen and if it does give up the ghost, I'll get one. I believe on one or two of the earlier pages a couple of folks had bought them and threw up some pic's.

Yeah I remember someone talking about them but I don't recall if they gave a link to where you could get one. Plus enough time and pages have passed I figured it couldn't hurt to post one now even if it's a repeat. I'm going to get one of these. My aluminum one is also holding up but I figure having this stainless steel one is worth having, I'm actually wanting it more for a slightly larger puck then anything else.

 

[sugabear_II]

This press is a bit pricier at $45.99 but it's made of stainless steel and appears to be slightly larger around although somewhat shorter, looks like it might make nickle size pucks instead of dime size? The key point though is that being stainless steel rather then aluminum it's more durable.

I think the answer is that the interior diameter is the same - so still dime sized pucks

Pipedream- The diameter is the same for both units but the stainless steel unit's barrel is about half as long as the aluminum one, 3" and 5 1/2" respectively. The stainless steel unit is the right size for pucks (don't know why anyone would want to make a 5" tootsie roll plug of hash) and it fits into a stash box compartment well.

 

[HempKat]

I think the answer is that the interior diameter is the same - so still dime sized pucks

Well damn, okay so I won't get bigger pucks but I think I'll still get it anyway for the durability. Thanks sugabear_II.

 

[KolaGondola]

Yo HempKat

I may have a solution for you. First off Big Ups to Pipedream for the great tool and Big Ups to you for your great thread. After playing with the clay extruder for a few weeks I stumbled on a garlic press at the flea market. Very similar to the clay extruder, except made out of plastic and a one inch interior diameter drive cylinder. It is called "THE GARLIC MACHINE". I am not sure if the model being sold now is identical to mine, but it looks pretty much the same. They are available online many places for about ten dollars. In my coin collection I found two coins that are one inch diameter that fit perfect. They are "1 KRONE from DANMARK". The drive post of the garlic machine is plastic and if overloaded will buckle. A slow press works well. Put about a film canisters worth of trics in there, (too little material and the plug tends to stick to the coins), and after the initial press I place the press on top of my computer monitor to soak up a little heat. I tighten up the press every half hour or so. I try to get it good and tight before I go to bed and let it set over night. Sometimes the plug pop right off the coins, sometimes it comes out in pieces. Anyone come up with a good release agent for the coins? I hope this works for you. The plug is a little bigger than a quarter.

Peace

 

[MoeBudz^420]

Hey, I am using the cylinder type press, with 2 pennies on the ends of the rams, a perfect fit. I find the hash does tend to stick to them, the best way I've found to avoid this is to cut 2 circles of wax paper using the penny as a template.

it goes in like this: bottom ram, penny, paper circle, kief, paper circle, penny, top ram. then twist endcaps to tighten. When done, the wax paper prevents stickage to the coins, and is easy to peel off of even a thin puck.

Hope this helps with the stickage of the hash to the rams/coins...

Peace

 

[HempKat]

Yo HempKat

I may have a solution for you. First off Big Ups to Pipedream for the great tool and Big Ups to you for your great thread. After playing with the clay extruder for a few weeks I stumbled on a garlic press at the flea market. Very similar to the clay extruder, except made out of plastic and a one inch interior diameter drive cylinder. It is called "THE GARLIC MACHINE". I am not sure if the model being sold now is identical to mine, but it looks pretty much the same. They are available online many places for about ten dollars. In my coin collection I found two coins that are one inch diameter that fit perfect. They are "1 KRONE from DANMARK". The drive post of the garlic machine is plastic and if overloaded will buckle. A slow press works well. Put about a film canisters worth of trics in there, (too little material and the plug tends to stick to the coins), and after the initial press I place the press on top of my computer monitor to soak up a little heat. I tighten up the press every half hour or so. I try to get it good and tight before I go to bed and let it set over night. Sometimes the plug pop right off the coins, sometimes it comes out in pieces. Anyone come up with a good release agent for the coins? I hope this works for you. The plug is a little bigger than a quarter.

Peace

Thanks, I appreciate the info but being plastic, I doubt I'll give it a go. As it stands now I worry about the pressure I like to apply, damaging the aluminum press so I seriously doubt plastic will do the trick for me. As for getting the coins to release from the hash I've seen a few people use wax paper with good success. I've never had a major problem with that myself though. I just open the press and crank the hash out such that the plug just clears the press but the coin is still inside and then press on the plug from the side. The press itself holds the coin in place and the plug just pops right off.

 

[rifishman]

Found the clay extruder at Michael's and gave it a try with some recent trim. Works like a charm. Ran the trim twice, for one hour each. First batch resulted in a nice dark chunk, with the second one a little lighter.

Can't wait to try some.

Will post some pics later when the upload resumes.

 

[Big Bud Bear]

mine just came today, i bought one off ebay

do you use weed or keiff to make hash?

 

[Big Bud Bear]

i'm holding mine over an electric range. pressing some ground up bud

not enought pollen in my collector yet

 

[HempKat]

mine just came today, i bought one off ebay

do you use weed or keiff to make hash?

The answer to that question is....yes

You use keif (trichome glands) which you get from weed of course. :smile:

I suppose you could press bud if it has enough resin although it wouldn't really be hash, just compressed bud. That would make it more concentrated in that you'ld be smoking a smaller peice to represent the same amount of uncompressed bud. The real beauty in hash is the notion that you've seperated all of almost all of the plant material before you press it, since without the resin there's no real value to the high or flavor of the plant material.

 

[Guest]

I would like something that is a cross of this and a heavy duty car jack press. I've got issues with my wrists and would like to make small pucks without all the twisting. I don't mind paying for a commercial instrument, but cant find a good one.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[rifishman]

Tumbled a bunch of clippings from some Bangi Haze and ran the tumbler for 1 hour, pressed that, then another hour and pressed that.

First run gave me a nice small double dime size chunk of nice dark brown. I was impressed.

Second run gave me more dry trich's but the hash was almost the size of 3 dimes and much lighter in color.

The smoke on both was divine.

Strainhore:

Anyone have any ideas?

The Clay extruder from Michaels was extremely easy to turn the handle, actually effortless. You are only turning for about 1/8 of a turn after every heat up over the stove and it does turn very easy until it compresses and then you just let it set for 30 seconds.

I would highly recommend this method.

Peace!

 

[Pipedream]

rifishman - Nicely Done! Thanks for adding some new pic's.

 

[sneakinman13]

if only i saw this link 3 weeks ago.
lol
o well always next harvest...
quick question..

it seems most of you take the hash out pretty much instantly after your done heating it and twisting..
jw how well together the hash actually stays. and of course with quality kieff im speaking of..

anyone let it stay pressed in the presser over night??

 

[HempKat]

if only i saw this link 3 weeks ago.
lol
o well always next harvest...
quick question..

it seems most of you take the hash out pretty much instantly after your done heating it and twisting..
jw how well together the hash actually stays. and of course with quality kieff im speaking of..

anyone let it stay pressed in the presser over night??

I typically make 2 gram disks and I'm using pretty clean dry sift hash when I do it. Now following the recommended procedure of twisting a certain amount and then waiting a bit and do some more, I typically have it in the press a good 5 to 10 minutes just on that part. Then once you think you've pressed as far as you can, that's when you're supposed to start heating it which will soften it and allow you to compress some more and I do this a good 3 times per disk with a 5 - 10 minute cool down in between each heating. Now if I remember correctly the thread starter, Pipedream, suggested even putting it in the freezer. Me I worry about the wear of successive heating and rapid cooling on the press itself so I just let mine air cool to room temp. So all in all I'd say I have it in the press about 45 minutes to an hour. I don't think I have ever gone longer then that. If I did it would be because I was interupted by something and had to stop.

I don't think length of time makes a difference but after the 45 min to 1 hour I press mine normally, they're rock hard, you need to use a razor to shave off what you want to smoke. Actually hard as a rock is misleading because you can cut off slivers relatively easy with a sharp razor. Let's just say you wouldn't really want or need it to be any harder.

Now of course the more contaminated it gets with plant matter the more weakness it'll have, so if you had less then ideal material to work with perhaps a longer press time could help but if I'm working with low grade material I find it ultimately better to do an ISO wash with stuff like that.

Anyway, removing it immediately after heating is not a good idea as that's when it's at it's softest and stickiest. You shouldn't be heating it too much either, if you got good hot water just holding the end with the resin under some running hot water could be enough, you're wanting it to heat just enough for the resin to barely melt, at least that's what I shoot for. If it gets too hot it'll degrade. So since you're not super heating it you shouldn't really need to go thru any extensive cooling/hardening period.

 

[sneakinman13]

Now of course the more contaminated it gets with plant matter the more weakness it'll have, so if you had less then ideal material to work with perhaps a longer press time could help but if I'm working with low grade material I find it ultimately better to do an ISO wash with stuff like that.

........
thanks alot for the reply..
just curious to what u mean by a ISO wash with your more leafy material..?.
other then that tho you made it very easy for me to understand how long to leave in for and thats basically what i was trying to figure out most!
also..
would you do this with premature buds that had no cure time but are dry??
or would you cure the premature buds first????
thanks again

 

[Pipedream]

As long as the buds are dry, you'll be fine. Curing only helps make the leafy plant matter more enjoyable to smoke it really has no effect on the actual resin. Although a very long cure can cause the resin to start to decay which gives it a more narcotic high, if that's what you like.

When HempKat mentioned an ISO wash, he was referring to a totally different method of extracting the resin from the plant as opposed to dry-sifting. With an ISO or Grain Alcohol wash you end up with a thick gooey tar substance and not a compressed cake of kief.

Last thing....I never put my press in the refridge or freezer during the process, only after I'm totally finished to help cool it down. If I'm in no big rush, I just leave it laying around for a couple of hours on the table. The trick here is you want to make sure that the inside of the puck is totally at room temperature before trying to remove it from the press. If not, you stand a chance of having it break apart.