The smallest, lightest, quietest, most efficient, most powerful fan. Period!

[Intimea]

I'm sorry I can't discuss properly due to my bad english, but I just want to remember you that here we are not talking about construction of a professional recording studio...If you're going to insulate a fan via the thickness of the material you'll use, you're going in the wrong way

You can go via thickness or via variable density...for example, you can make a sandwich with foam rubber & lead

This is the classic marine insulation, and works really well.

 

[AppliedScience]

Doing a quick search for marine foam, it appears it is designed first for fireproofing, then for acoustic and thermal insulation. If you used that I think it would work, but you would be paying for the other properties it has and still not be getting optimal sound proofing.

You make a good point about this being different than constructing a professional recording studio and you are correct. I looked into sound deadening boxes and it looks like every article says that MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is the best material for sound deadening.

This reminds me of some old threads that I've read that talk about covering a loud inline fan with a layer or two of Dynamat (the sheets they put in car doors when treating a car - its a brand name but expensive MLV). This could be the best solution and would take little extra space. My bet is that this solution or an acoustic plywood box with MLV glued to the walls is by far the best.

On a side note I think your English is great.

 

[bonglemonade]

Hey Scrappy, Love your grows! The video says it uses a separate power cord for the speed control. Do you know if the speed controller has a wall wart (like a cell phone) for DC speed control via external 10 volt dc source? I have a fantech systemair prioAir 8" ec Mixed Flow Fan that did not come with a cord or speed controller and was looking for a way to dial it down.

 

[Huckster79]

I have zero doubt from research dynomat is amazing stuff. My problem came in that the price was tough to swallow... if you got the budget for it, for sure..

 

[king oscar]

+1 on the hyperfan

I don't care about noise but it's the quietest fan I have. Great product all around. It sucked a chain in when I was changing filters and shut down automatically. Somehow it was totally fine after a restart no blade damage.

I wish they made a 12"

 

[iffey]

the stealth model looks like the hyper fan encased in a tube as someone above mentioned. Scrappy-do dials it down and it is quiet enough. some weren't worried about the encasing the fan but does make me think about that little black thingy in the picture of the stealth fan, above the power cord. Anyone have an idea about what that is?

 

[AppliedScience]

Probably an elastic hanger. If you're looking at the Hyper Stealth you might as well go with an S&P TD-Silent for the same cost, but with better engineering and quieter. Both my 6" and 8" are extremely quiet and one survived a 6 foot drop and still runs perfectly fine.

http://www.solerpalau-usa.com/Brochures/Commercial/TD-SILENT_Pages.pdf

 

[Intimea]

Doing a quick search for marine foam, it appears it is designed first for fireproofing, then for acoustic and thermal insulation. If you used that I think it would work, but you would be paying for the other properties it has and still not be getting optimal sound proofing.

You make a good point about this being different than constructing a professional recording studio and you are correct. I looked into sound deadening boxes and it looks like every article says that MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is the best material for sound deadening.

This reminds me of some old threads that I've read that talk about covering a loud inline fan with a layer or two of Dynamat (the sheets they put in car doors when treating a car - its a brand name but expensive MLV). This could be the best solution and would take little extra space. My bet is that this solution or an acoustic plywood box with MLV glued to the walls is by far the best.

The pic I posted was just for example...just to argue my opinion

So far, the best solution I tried, is to use stuff like this

But it'd be Off Topic.

On a side note I think your English is great.

I try to do my best.

 

[RB56]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Intimea is correct about the best way to block air borne sound - a dense layer of lead or MLV decoupled from whatever it is touching by a layer of foam. That's only one of the paths sound noise takes.

I need my rooms to be completely silent, even to people standing right next to a wall. It's also nicer to have a quiet grow space when I'm in it. Odor control and fresh air exchange are what I'm using the fans for. I have a passive intake in my veg room which shares a wall with the flower room. One carbon filter in the veg room, air pulled through it by a fan in the flower room, through a 6" vent. Then a carbon filter and fan pushing air out of the flower room. That keeps my fans in the flower room, so that's where I focused my noise reduction efforts.

There are three possible transmissions paths for fan noise:
[/FONT]

1. [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Air borne sound from the fan itself, inside the flower room (in my case), escaping through the walls.
   [/FONT]
2. [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Air borne sound traveling through the exhaust.[/FONT]
3. [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Transmission of fan vibration into the floor, walls or ceiling.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Dynamat is a vibration damper. It is not MLV and it is not intended to block air borne sound. Vibration can become sound, so it is worth controlling. It's really easy to tell if you need a product like Dynamat - just press your hands against the fan housing and ducts. If doing so makes them quieter, add vibration damper.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Once structural vibration is controlled, it's time to move on to the barrier - decoupled lead or MLV. I've wrapped my fan housings and ducts in closed cell foam and MLV.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For exhaust, I built a solution into a wall. I caulked everywhere studs and drywall meet. Air leaks let sound pass. I cut a 6"x10" opening at the bottom of the exterior wall, covered by a grate and hidden behind a shelf. I then lined inside of the exterior drywall with a 1.5" thick material called Hydrophobic Melamine Foam. Cut a 6" hole high on the interior wall and attached the exhaust vent there. That created a 1.5"x14.5"x6' channel for the air to flow through, over the 1.5" layer of Hydrophobic Melamine Foam, a really effective sound absorber that will not absorb moisture. Just a slight sound of air moving, if you get down on the floor and put your ear next to the grate.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I don't have a problem with fan vibration traveling into the building structure because the filters and fans sit on a concrete floor and block of foam rubber. Hanging the fan from bungie cords will also isolate the fan's vibration from the building structure. If you want to mount the fan to a wall, McMaster CCarr has a wide variety of vibration isolation mounts that will solve the problem.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]There's a site called Sound Deadener Showdown that does a good job of describing noise control, even though it focuses on vehicle noise. It's where I bought all of my acoustic materials - CLD Tiles, their version of Dynamat, but beefier, closed cell foam, MLV and Hydrophobic Melamine Foam. Very happy with how it turned out.[/FONT]

 

[Hogni]

Nice Fan! Thx or sharing it.

But speed controlling just down to 35%?? Its way to much IMO! What are you doing in night mode in Winter and taking air from outside?

Just lookin for ec fans. Super effective, silent and stepless dialing of speed controller down to 1%! So you can hold underpressure w/o sucking to much cold air from outside.
Have seen/heard some of them here in Germany - awesome!

For example look here

 

[Snook]

I'm sorry I can't discuss properly due to my bad english, but I just want to remember you that here we are not talking about construction of a professional recording studio...If you're going to insulate a fan via the thickness of the material you'll use, you're going in the wrong way

You can go via thickness or via variable density...for example, you can make a sandwich with foam rubber & lead

View Image

This is the classic marine insulation, and works really well.

i used to administer the construction of offices in a large computer companys complex. They had a 'safe' room built, all sheetrock was lined with 1/8" lead sheathing.. and allot of in-wall insulation... they put a lock on that door and I never got in there again... English is fine...

 

[AppliedScience]

RB56 - well written. Its been a while since I did the research to properly treat my last vehicle before giving up since it would have cost $3000-5000, though it would have sounded amazing.

I think an MLV (not dynamat, my mistake) lined box would be adequate unless theres a whole lot of structural vibration that doesn't get taken care of by hanging the fan or box by bungees. My apologies - what Intemia said and RB56 went into detail is absolutely the correct and best way though it may be cost prohibitive. Hell even MLV might be cost prohibitive. I guess the best solution just depends on your budget.

Im just curious, how much did it cost to treat that awesome soundproof room RB?

 

[RB56]

RB56 - well written. Its been a while since I did the research to properly treat my last vehicle before giving up since it would have cost $3000-5000, though it would have sounded amazing.

I think an MLV (not dynamat, my mistake) lined box would be adequate unless theres a whole lot of structural vibration that doesn't get taken care of by hanging the fan or box by bungees. My apologies - what Intemia said and RB56 went into detail is absolutely the correct and best way though it may be cost prohibitive. Hell even MLV might be cost prohibitive. I guess the best solution just depends on your budget.

Im just curious, how much did it cost to treat that awesome soundproof room RB?

Some of it was doubled drywall on two walls, so not much there. Think I used about 10 of the CLD Tiles @ $2.45 each. $75 for MLV and CCF. 5 pieces Hydrophobic Melamine Foam = $165. Less than $300 for acoustic products.

Forgot to mention that MLV and lead sheeting serve exactly the same purpose. MLV is much less expensive.

 

[ChaosCatalunya]

I'm no audible expert.....but I'm pretty sure a 10 decible increase is twice as loud. I may need to play with the locations of the mufflers to see how it affects the decibels. Again, I have never tried metering the decibels till now. Just a newbie.

Yes, IIRC you are right, Decibels are logarithmic, like pH

https://www.cs.sfu.ca/~tamaras/digitalAudio/Linear_vs_logarithmic.html

 

[Snook]

Some of it was doubled drywall on two walls, so not much there. Think I used about 10 of the CLD Tiles @ $2.45 each. $75 for MLV and CCF. 5 pieces Hydrophobic Melamine Foam = $165. Less than $300 for acoustic products.

Forgot to mention that MLV and lead sheeting serve exactly the same purpose. MLV is much less expensive.

RB, thank you for this information. You quote $75 for MLV. I'd like to use some of this in my application. Prices vary $100 for 100sqft (4'x25') from one vendor to another. What makes $100 of difference from one vendor to another? Profit only?

 

[RB56]

RB, thank you for this information. You quote $75 for MLV. I'd like to use some of this in my application. Prices vary $100 for 100sqft (4'x25') from one vendor to another. What makes $100 of difference from one vendor to another? Profit only?

No, there are many grades of MLV. I guess it may be profit in some cases, but they are definitely not all the same. The biggest difference I've seen is odor - cheap MLV tends to have a strong odor that never goes away. A friend used MLV from eBay in his car and had to tear it all out after a few months because the odor never dissipated. I wouldn't use the cheap stuff inside a grow room because strong odor = outgassing. No idea if it would be harmful to the plants, but I don't want to smell it and don't want to take the chance.

 

[Scrappy-doo]

Hey Scrappy, Love your grows! The video says it uses a separate power cord for the speed control. Do you know if the speed controller has a wall wart (like a cell phone) for DC speed control via external 10 volt dc source? I have a fantech systemair prioAir 8" ec Mixed Flow Fan that did not come with a cord or speed controller and was looking for a way to dial it down.

Not sure on the details but here is a pic:

the stealth model looks like the hyper fan encased in a tube as someone above mentioned. Scrappy-do dials it down and it is quiet enough. some weren't worried about the encasing the fan but does make me think about that little black thingy in the picture of the stealth fan, above the power cord. Anyone have an idea about what that is?

That black thingy in the stealth model is the plug for the dimmer. Here it is on mine...

 

[Scrappy-doo]

Probably an elastic hanger. If you're looking at the Hyper Stealth you might as well go with an S&P TD-Silent for the same cost, but with better engineering and quieter. Both my 6" and 8" are extremely quiet and one survived a 6 foot drop and still runs perfectly fine.

http://www.solerpalau-usa.com/Brochures/Commercial/TD-SILENT_Pages.pdf

I'm curious on your comment about the S&P having better engineering and quieter... Do you know how many db those run at? Watts? As far as them having better engineering are you referring to the housing compared to the stealth hyper fan, or the motor?

I was looking at those but ultimately decided against it based on 2 things.

The first is convenience. From what I gather they are not plug and play and need to be wired. Also to change from low to high setting you need to rewire from what I gather. They also don't come with a dimmer which needs to be bought separate, and then also wired in. Correct? That was my impression at least. To some that's a simple thing but for someone like me it's just a major pita. If I'm gonna pay that kinda money I want convenience.

Second was the amazon reviews. The reviews were mostly positive but I did see comments that at lower speeds there is an increased hum and vibration which for me was a deal breaker. I have several fans already that hum and vibrate when dimmed down.

The hyper fan from what I could see has the most advanced and efficient motor around, is plug and play with the dimmer included, no hum or vibration when dimmed, extremely energy efficient- my kilowatt meter is showing between 9 and 10 watts which is ridiculously efficient for the amount of airflow I'm getting, and my 8 inch model is smaller and lighter than any fan I've ever had, and that includes several 6 inch fans.

But I've never owned a TD Silent so I could be wrong. Certainly am not a tech nerd.

 

[AppliedScience]

I'm curious on your comment about the S&P having better engineering and quieter... Do you know how many db those run at? Watts? As far as them having better engineering are you referring to the housing compared to the stealth hyper fan, or the motor?

I cant seem to find that, though I know I saw it at one point. I think its been said over and over on forums that these are the quietest fans you can buy at this power.

From my experience the 6 and 8 inch are significantly quieter than Can 4/6/6ho, Can-max 8/10, and of course the loud ass green hydrofarm fans at the same airflow.

The first is convenience. From what I gather they are not plug and play and need to be wired. Also to change from low to high setting you need to rewire from what I gather. They also don't come with a dimmer which needs to be bought separate, and then also wired in. Correct?

Thats correct that its not plug and play since it was designed to be a ceiling fan controlled with a light switch. You can wire a 3-way switch to change to switch from high to low though its kind of a pain - we did it with two 3-way switches and I'm not sure it's even done right.

Second was the amazon reviews. The reviews were mostly positive but I did see comments that at lower speeds there is an increased hum and vibration which for me was a deal breaker. I have several fans already that hum and vibrate when dimmed down.

I've never used a fan speed controller on it because there's really no need. Both high and low are quieter than the airflow. No vibration or hum on the internal low setting on either of mine.

 

[AppliedScience]

Having said that, keep in mind I haven't tried or heard the Hyper fan in person. I'm curious how loud it is compared to the same size can-max at the same airflow.