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The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD].

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B

BlueJayWay

dogfish - My routine in regards to a 'perpetual harvest' comes down to starting something at least every two weeks. If more than three weeks goes by without a new batch already rooting then I'm losing out - every two weeks seeds or cuttings are started. I try not to start seeds more than once a month or every 6 weeks, otherwise I get WAY too many phenotypes hangin' around takin up space....If one is not going to be taking cuttings of everything and keeping moms then for sure I'd start from seed all the time...

Kelp is a mainstay for me - in the soil, compost pile, worm bin and when botanical teas are made it's always in there @ 1/4 cup per 5gal water but that is often diluted down to half or more......If you haven't made a kelp meal tea by itself I would suggest trying it a couple times...it really shows how beneficial kelp is by itself, and obvious why it's used so extensively in commercial fertilizers....

killer info bjw. i'm trying to figure out my perpetual sprout harvest cycle and it would seem you're sprouting seeds all the time? day or two to get roots, soak in 1 gal for 3-4 days for every watering start to finish? sounds like i'm going to need a bit more room to accommodate all the different concoctions i'll be brewing up. i remember you being big on kelp in one of the other threads, is that still a main staple of yours?

anywho, picked up a lb of purple barley from whole foods the other day from timeless seeds. called for pricing to like $1.86/lb for a 50lb bag less shipping, pretty sure fedex / LTL is going to tape me. lady was more then helpful and is going to send me pricing along with local distributors in my area in the morning.

http://www.timelessfood.com/purple-prairie-barley.html

also, hope you don't mind me sharing the info from one of the other threads, but it's far too helpful not to. really helped me out.
 
D

dogfishheadie

i should have been a bit more specific when I said "seed sprout", forgive me sir. however i'm not complaining about perpetual harvest information :tiphat:.
what I was trying to get at in my just smoked a vaporizer mind was to how often you're sprouting the various barley / other seeds. it would seem to me that i'd need to have seeds sprouting all the time to account for the...

- 1-2 day soak to get them sprouted
- let sit for 3-4 days in the gallon jug out of sunlight
- apply
- store for 2-3 days max.

then to be able to time it with all my waterings in various stages of plant growth? eek.

went ahead and bought the plastic, four tier kitchen sprouter off amazon. hopefully this will help the process along as well as allow me an ergonomic way to have multiple seeds sprouting at once. really appreciate all the help here fellas!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FVPP04/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

**ordered that sucker last night for $17 and they go and drop the price by $3.00 today. mfers**
 
B

BlueJayWay

DFH - silly me :D. You got the right idea, I find it simplest to make a habit of starting sprouts every two days, it really costs just pennies per application - you can eat extra sprouts, give extra soaked sprouts to house plants and the veggie garden, compost, whatever ya know...

Once sprouted I will soak for 2 days max or a 3rd day if its bubbled....sometimes in a jiffy I'll soak for just 24hrs and dilute @ 2 cups/gal instead of 1 cup....the worms seem to love the leftover 'soaked' sprouts...
 
D

dogfishheadie

much appreciated my man.

not really ROLS per se but i'm sure there's plenty of you out there that have a veggie garden going. long and short of it is I want to do a simple raised bed to grow my ingredients for FPE / mulch / misc (dandelions, white dutch clover, comfrey etc), along with all that pepper / vegetable fun stuff. do you guys take it as far as the ROLS approach? would I be okay just tilling up the area, mixing in some rock dust / compost / ewc and my various meals then hit it with a tea? pretty sure it's a sandy soil type, north east here.

hopefully soon I can scratch off my "build a farm" on the ol' bucket list.

oh, and any other "must haves" i can do on my own?
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i build up my beds w/ a shovel ~throwing what i dig around the bed area on to the bed

but; i m finding this year that the ground tends to absorb the raised area and it isnt raised any more ~even w/ compost additions

i just pulled back about 2" of compost mulch to get to the soil and it is lower than the soil around it

idk; framing up some raised beds like you see on the gardening shows is starting to make sense to me

i let that part be fallow last season and it is getting over-taken by grass along w/ the getting absorbed

i think i will mulch it like awesomely this fall ~perhaps do another round of digging around it and throwing the dirt on the "raised" bed

interestingly; the tendency to return to level like that isnt new to me ~i finally got an opportunity to visit my 1st garden from '95 a couple years ago and found it isnt even discernible any more the area has leveled off and the local flora has returned it was actually tilled to the full depth of my folks troy-bilt {i think 8"} and same practice digging paths and throwing the soil on to the beds
 

Neo 420

Active member
Veteran
much appreciated my man.

not really ROLS per se but i'm sure there's plenty of you out there that have a veggie garden going. long and short of it is I want to do a simple raised bed to grow my ingredients for FPE / mulch / misc (dandelions, white dutch clover, comfrey etc), along with all that pepper / vegetable fun stuff. do you guys take it as far as the ROLS approach? would I be okay just tilling up the area, mixing in some rock dust / compost / ewc and my various meals then hit it with a tea? pretty sure it's a sandy soil type, north east here.

I grow my own FPE's/IPM/misc in 4x4 and 4x8 raised beds along side my veggies. I do use the ROLS approach with all my gardening. Just like you said.. Till in and hit with a tea.
Matter of fact I already have strawberries ready to harvest :)
 
B

BlueJayWay

Yea like NEW said - growing your own 'amendments' is primo! I have nettle inside, alfalfa starting, clover all over, comfrey outside, mints, rosemary, lavendar, cilantro etc outside....Get a few good Comfrey bushes going and your garden/compost will thank you!

So I thought I'd snap a picture or two of the pretty simple process that begins a No-Till container...

1. harvest - if the plant is healthy and pests aren't a concern, the soil won't be disturbed...if there were issues, plant yellowed too quick, etc etc then I don't want to replant in it and repeat the same problems...that soil goes to the bins to be 'recycled' and reamended....

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2. Make hole for new plant

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3. Transplant and mulch - This time with EWC mixed with small amounts of neem/kelp/crab & a handful of dried nettle and cannabis....trying this mix out and see if it will eliminate any need of botanical teas/ACT's - water/silica/aloe/sprouts/fulvic each time & nada mas...

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B

BlueJayWay

45gal no-till smart pot, 3rd round flowering in her. Mix n match of 7 strains, 11 plants

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As a random experiment I have an 'upper' canopy that formed from 6 stretchy plants that grew tall....

The 'under' canopy has 5 plants that have very little stretch, fatten up nicely and have lots of trichome coverage...this will all be used for making hash/coconut oil....

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At about 3 to 4 weeks the upper canopy is developing very nicely!

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high life 45

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Really stoked that I found this thread. I am about 10% of the way through the first one, barely touched the links that CC is always posting, but I have been bookmarking all of them. A lot to catch up between school and gardening and work. I have never been this busy in life.

I am a Master Gardener Volunteer and I really want to show all the little old Garden nerd ladies this thread sometimes. LOL.

I am just getting to the part where you guys mention that you dont use dolo.
I anyone wants to post there mix with out using lime that would be greatly appreciated. Or is it the same list GC posted in the first thread? I am going to school 4 days a week, work 5, and managing the gardens 7. My time is really limited and I have alot of studying to do. I am happy to read threads for long periods of time I just dont have the time ATM. Anyway Id love to see some of your ROLS vets mixes in comparison to eachother.

Alot of the hydro store markup bs transfers in the food industry as well. Its scary what is sold as food these days.

Thanx Everyone for sharing.
 
Here's the basic CC mix from memory.

1/3 peat moss
1/3 compost/ewc
1/3 aeration amendment

To each cubic foot add the following:
1/2 cup neem meal
1/2 cup crab shell meal
1/2 cup kelp meal

5 cups mineral mix consisting of:

4x Glacial Rock Dust
1x oyster shell
1x bentonite
1x basalt

This mix is listed in the ROLS thread within the first 20 pages. Hell maybe even the first 10. I did the Level 1 Master Gardening course, completed it, and then declined to sign up for the Level 2 class after the instructor told me "compost teas have yet to be proven effective".
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
compost teas not effective!!!!!!

face-punching time

Here's the basic CC mix from memory.

1/3 peat moss
1/3 compost/ewc
1/3 aeration amendment

To each cubic foot add the following:
1/2 cup neem meal
1/2 cup crab shell meal
1/2 cup kelp meal

5 cups mineral mix consisting of:

4x Glacial Rock Dust
1x oyster shell
1x bentonite
1x basalt

This mix is listed in the ROLS thread within the first 20 pages. Hell maybe even the first 10. I did the Level 1 Master Gardening course, completed it, and then declined to sign up for the Level 2 class after the instructor told me "compost teas have yet to be proven effective".

and that is the 'secret' recipe i referenced in 'making organic potting soil 101' though {fro memory} it seems like gypsum was there too

*edit* clack's words
A cake walk! LOL

Soil Base - Per Cubic Foot

33% Alaska Peat Moss
33% Pumice
33% Combination of Malibu Biodynamic Compost, Oly Mountain Organic Fish Compost and my Vermicompost

Plants are top-dressed with 2" of Vermicompost

Amendment Mix

1/2 cup Organic Neem or Karanja Meal
1/2 cup Organic Kelp Meal

Rock Dust Mix

4 cups Basalt & Glacial Rock Dust Mix

Lime

1/2 cup Gypsum
1/2 cup Crab Meal

The worm bins are amended with kelp, neem and crab meals during their cycle at about the same rate per c.f. of compost or manure as the soil mix

This mix could possibly be as good as The Rev's mix, Kyle Kushman's mix or perhaps even Sub-Cool's Super Soil Mix! Maybe even the esteemed Moonshine Mix!!!

Hope springs eternal in the heart of a fool....
 

high life 45

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Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate it. I remember when Ross said that "compost teas are not effective"... I thought to myself. ...."All compost teas are not equal"....

I think I may have found myself a lil GOLD MIINE..which was great because my I had a bit of a rough day and been stressed out lately.

I have a few yards of MUSHROOM COMPOST I was gifted a year ago. It has a lot of wood chips in it from when it was cow manure from the local dairy. Anyone see any problems with using it?


It even has some friends in it already!!
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Its Recycled, not sure how Organic the manure was but the mushrooms were, by the looks of the worms its certainly Living.. I think Im well on my way.

I guess I need to get a few yards of peat and pumice and put my bro to work!
 

W89

Active member
Veteran
BJW- Will you have enough room in your new G'room for a single bed? can I move in? il help out watering/trimming ect just have to feed me and let me use the shower, that kinda thing lol
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
if its stood for a year or so then i would say it is fine. great humus.

ive used well-aged mushroom compost in my mix (at 10%) for years.

VG
 
V

vonforne

then declined to sign up for the Level 2 class after the instructor told me "compost teas have yet to be proven effective".

you have got to be kidding!? No wonder there is so much misinformation in our society. This coming from a so called Professor. WTF?
 
An indication of a healthy soil would be the breakdown time of the old roots. Anyone have experience enough to give an estimate of how long they should take to break down?
 
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