You're a lone wolf man...and you're on the bus....even if it's back there in the luggage compartment somewhere. We see you lone wolf~
- Status
The Lone Wolf cries.. Any Nedly Mandingo fans here?
I've been cycling rock dusts through my pile....and rice hulls....and stuff..
f@k yeah HIGH FOOT!
ninja turtle style
~you 'feel' me?
I agree composting is where its at but I put the black plastic on top and invite the fungi and other creatures up from the ground. If you are running vermicompost piles, that is different. You wish to keep it contained more.
TwistedPistils
Member
Shrimp that looks very clever! Is that a cloth shopping bag in there?
yeah it does and i m already out of thanks today
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BlueJayWay
BigShrimp - that's an excellent use of a milk crate! I may poke around and see if I can come up with any free ones - might be the perfect home for a handful of 15 gal smarties I want to keep around the flower room....
..and yes I agree, too good & too simple to not have been done before!
RanchoDeluxe
Member
Hell yeah Bigshrimp....practical info right there that people can use.
D
dogfishheadie
evening all. well after much planning, construction and design it turns out that my 400w metal halide didn't quite work the way we wanted it to work in the veg chamber. scrog ended up a bit too close to the light and left out some major side screen action. long story short i just ordered three of these guys to make up for it. i sorta wish i went this route to begin with as it's more conducive it fit in our rectangular shape box, can lower the suckers right on top of the girls.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQBQZQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1
my next question is what to do with the 400w? i wanted to throw it into my flowering room with my 600w HPS. from what i've gathered is that mixing the two spectrum's (HPS and MH) can be pretty beneficial during flower; reducing stretch, bud density etc. anyone have experience using both in flower? my partner doesn't think it'll make that much of a difference, I told him we can do one run with just the 600w in flower then try them both together. but if there's concrete evidence otherwise, i'd ideally not like to wait an entire cycle heh.
anywho, my ful-power comes in tomorrow which is the last damn thing i've been waiting to start this wonderful endeavor. going to soak the seeds for 36 hours per the bottles instructions and get them going thursday in the starting mix I just made up. really, really stoked.
been a long and crazy past four months ironing out every single detail, but it feels awesome to be so close.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQBQZQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1
my next question is what to do with the 400w? i wanted to throw it into my flowering room with my 600w HPS. from what i've gathered is that mixing the two spectrum's (HPS and MH) can be pretty beneficial during flower; reducing stretch, bud density etc. anyone have experience using both in flower? my partner doesn't think it'll make that much of a difference, I told him we can do one run with just the 600w in flower then try them both together. but if there's concrete evidence otherwise, i'd ideally not like to wait an entire cycle heh.
anywho, my ful-power comes in tomorrow which is the last damn thing i've been waiting to start this wonderful endeavor. going to soak the seeds for 36 hours per the bottles instructions and get them going thursday in the starting mix I just made up. really, really stoked.
been a long and crazy past four months ironing out every single detail, but it feels awesome to be so close.
I like your compost method (and those plants look great). Must make turning the heap much easier...
Have you tried using char in the compost? Can substantially improve nutrient content of the finished product.
4. Combined compost and biochar
4.1 Effect of process (mixing, composting, fermentation)
Terra preta was most likely formed by mixing of charring residues (biochar) with biogenic wastes from human settlements (excrements and food wastes including bones and ashes) which were microbially converted to a biochar-compost-likesubstrate (Glaser et al., 2001;Glaser, 2007; Glaser and Birk, 2011).
Thus, co-composting of biochar and fresh organic material is likely to have a number of benefits compared to the mere mixing of biochar or compost with soil. Examples are enhanced nutrient use efficiency, biological activation of biochar and better
material flow management and a higher and long-term C sequestration potential compared to individual compost and biochar applications (negative priming effect).
Compared to compost and biochar mixing, an increased decomposition of biochar can be expected during composting although biochar is much more stable than other organic materials. As observed by Kuzyakov et al. (2009), biochar decomposition rates increase as long as easily degradable C-rich substrate is available. Additionally , Nguyen et al. (2010)
reported that higher temperature increased biochar oxidation and thus decomposition. However, these effects are much lower for bioc har than for compost feedstock. On the other hand, surface oxidation will enhance the capacity of biochar to chemisorb nutrients, minerals and dissolved OM. The overall reactivity of biochar surfaces therefore probably increases with composting (Thies & Rillig, 2009). From the compost point of view, there is evidence that biochar as a bulking agent improves
oxygen availability and hence stimulates microbial growth and respiration rates (Steiner etal., 2011). Pyrolysis condensates adsorbed to biochar initially provoked increased respiration rates in soils which most likely occur also during composting
(Smith et al., 2010). Biochar in compost provides habitats for microbes, thereby enhancing microbial activity. Steiner et al.
(2011) reported increased moisture absorption of biochar-amended composts with beneficial effects on the composting process.
It was often stated in non-scientific literature, that terra preta was formed by anaerobic fermentation of biochar with organic wastes using “effective microorganisms®” (EM®) which consist mainly of a mix of lactic acid and photosynthetic bacteria, yeasts, actinomycetes as well as other genera and species of beneficial microorganisms (Higa &Wididana, 1991). However, there is no scientific proof for this and from a practical point of view it is most unlikely that pre-Columbian Indians manually moved tremendous amountsof soil and organic wastes for fermentation in closed containers. For the average dimension of terra preta being 20 ha wide and one meter deep, 200,000 m3 or 260,000 tons of soil would have being moved by hand twice (forth and back) for terra preta generation which is most unlikely.
http://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/2716...biochar_for_sustainable_soil_amelioration.pdf
Have you tried using char in the compost? Can substantially improve nutrient content of the finished product.
4. Combined compost and biochar
4.1 Effect of process (mixing, composting, fermentation)
Terra preta was most likely formed by mixing of charring residues (biochar) with biogenic wastes from human settlements (excrements and food wastes including bones and ashes) which were microbially converted to a biochar-compost-likesubstrate (Glaser et al., 2001;Glaser, 2007; Glaser and Birk, 2011).
Thus, co-composting of biochar and fresh organic material is likely to have a number of benefits compared to the mere mixing of biochar or compost with soil. Examples are enhanced nutrient use efficiency, biological activation of biochar and better
material flow management and a higher and long-term C sequestration potential compared to individual compost and biochar applications (negative priming effect).
Compared to compost and biochar mixing, an increased decomposition of biochar can be expected during composting although biochar is much more stable than other organic materials. As observed by Kuzyakov et al. (2009), biochar decomposition rates increase as long as easily degradable C-rich substrate is available. Additionally , Nguyen et al. (2010)
reported that higher temperature increased biochar oxidation and thus decomposition. However, these effects are much lower for bioc har than for compost feedstock. On the other hand, surface oxidation will enhance the capacity of biochar to chemisorb nutrients, minerals and dissolved OM. The overall reactivity of biochar surfaces therefore probably increases with composting (Thies & Rillig, 2009). From the compost point of view, there is evidence that biochar as a bulking agent improves
oxygen availability and hence stimulates microbial growth and respiration rates (Steiner etal., 2011). Pyrolysis condensates adsorbed to biochar initially provoked increased respiration rates in soils which most likely occur also during composting
(Smith et al., 2010). Biochar in compost provides habitats for microbes, thereby enhancing microbial activity. Steiner et al.
(2011) reported increased moisture absorption of biochar-amended composts with beneficial effects on the composting process.
It was often stated in non-scientific literature, that terra preta was formed by anaerobic fermentation of biochar with organic wastes using “effective microorganisms®” (EM®) which consist mainly of a mix of lactic acid and photosynthetic bacteria, yeasts, actinomycetes as well as other genera and species of beneficial microorganisms (Higa &Wididana, 1991). However, there is no scientific proof for this and from a practical point of view it is most unlikely that pre-Columbian Indians manually moved tremendous amountsof soil and organic wastes for fermentation in closed containers. For the average dimension of terra preta being 20 ha wide and one meter deep, 200,000 m3 or 260,000 tons of soil would have being moved by hand twice (forth and back) for terra preta generation which is most unlikely.
http://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/2716...biochar_for_sustainable_soil_amelioration.pdf
LilMan72003
Active member
Lou, it is nice to see you around these parts. Your backyard grow is still one of my favorite threads of all time, certainly inspirational. To everyone here giving lg a tough time because of his composting methods, just understand he knows what he is doing and accept his style for what it is. 63# from a small backyard, and a HT article to boot.
-Lilman
-Lilman
His composting methods are fine. I like his style... just not the lingo.
Nobody questioned his methods.... and his plants look great!
He questioned the methods used here and said that his tastes better.
That shit wouldn't stand in his outdoor thread Guaranteed.... I'd fully expect him to speak up If I rolled through his spot like that.
Anyhow, I'd like to see that High times article... I love to see them publishing anybody organic who doesn't spend money on all of the products they advertise.
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bajangreen
Thanks for the recognition bro, i wonder though. When i first join ICMag the atmosphere was much more different, the treads were much shorter and people were generally more understanding and willing to learn from each other. the thing about the internet is that the different cultures show up in how the people type, so you must really listen before you judge people as rude, anyhowssss forget that........
People like OLDproLg could remember this, there was much more love, i was one of those that came over from OG bro.
Chastising is the work of the evil one, fuck babylon, Spread the love, spread the knowledge, spread the seed, spread the chronic bro.
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bajangreen
OLDproLg you drop off the map in 2006-7is or so what happened bro? you never shared the composting method so thanks for doing it now, how much water do you put on the pile, do you wet it till water runs out the bottom? and do you use tap water?
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bajangreen
No till 50litre garbage bin over 2 years going strong. This year the planting hole was given a bucket of compost as main input. Fed mostly water as well as many varied teas/botanicals - comfrey soak, sprouted barley tea, aloe vera, worm farm leachate, kelp and molasses tea mostly
This mix was LCs#1 style 60%ish coco based medium with perlite and recycled compost/soil. Wasnt planning on making it no-till but thought i would give it a bash. The bin was left outside all this time and planted with kale to overwinter and in spring as green manure.
Thinking about bringing it indoors for winter and keeping going with the 2 blumats that are in there. I turned off the blumats for the last few weeks as it rained a lot. Now the big ass pot is light as a feather... well almost
Nice to see some little plants in smart pots Bajangreen
Kashmala Moon (TO x BMR) from clone
This mix was LCs#1 style 60%ish coco based medium with perlite and recycled compost/soil. Wasnt planning on making it no-till but thought i would give it a bash. The bin was left outside all this time and planted with kale to overwinter and in spring as green manure.
Thinking about bringing it indoors for winter and keeping going with the 2 blumats that are in there. I turned off the blumats for the last few weeks as it rained a lot. Now the big ass pot is light as a feather... well almost
Nice to see some little plants in smart pots Bajangreen
Kashmala Moon (TO x BMR) from clone
And these puppies are my attempt at a more soil/humus based ROLS style. These will also stay no-till but are considerably heavier... so they will probs stay where they are. Maybe...
These plants - all same clone run. Buds are a bit smaller but theres more of them...
These plants - all same clone run. Buds are a bit smaller but theres more of them...
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