fallenangel
Active member
hey sumo .. have any pics of your stardust grow?
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The Mill's Pride Club
- Thread starter sumo
- Start date
951medicinals
Member
sweet got it....thanx a bunch for the help
sumo
Member
fallenangel thanks for asking but no I don't keep these types of pictures on my computer any longer than I have to. After I post them I delete them. That was one of the major reasons I started a thread. To document a grow off sight. Unless OG starts up again I don't have pictures of any of my grows. But hey we are used to dissappearing stardust13 pictures because we all saw Maliboo's evaporate first.
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Hey all,I have a question for those of you using the original Maliboo passive intakes (2" pvc) a question.I have a 4" x 6" passive intake in the back wall where it meets the floor panel of the cab and the floor area upt ot about 6" stays 77-79 degrees F while the further up the hotter it gets.
If using the pvc intakes would I benefit by making them long enough so that they are just taller then my plants finishing height(s) in order to kepp the plant in the desired temp range,after all cold air does sink so do you think that would work?
If using the pvc intakes would I benefit by making them long enough so that they are just taller then my plants finishing height(s) in order to kepp the plant in the desired temp range,after all cold air does sink so do you think that would work?
sumo
Member
If you are using a fan capable of keeping a 400w cab at 78f then there is no cold air sinking. It is a whirlwind in that cab replacing total air volume 5 times a minute. As you move thermometer up you are measuring radiant heat off of light and not air temps. Your plants look healthy. Let them be the ones to tell you it is too hot.
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G
Guest
^ bingo!
Plus those long tubes would get in the way. Its natural for the hotter air to rise, but like sumo said...with proper circulation there shouldnt be a problem.
Plus those long tubes would get in the way. Its natural for the hotter air to rise, but like sumo said...with proper circulation there shouldnt be a problem.
wickedpete66
Active member
same here, all my pics of the stardust grow where on og as well. On almost the same note; sumo did you find that the stardust 13 has a strange kind of taste sor or petrolium kinda tasteta like motoroilsumo said:
sumo
Member
wickedpete, no I didn't find the taste like that. The taste was fine but the potency wasn't as strong as I would have liked. Very consistant strain like the cross that it was. I just grew out white rhino and no two plants were alike. Nice variety. A pole plant, a purple plant, and a pungent skunky smelling plant. You could blind fold me and I could tell you which one I was smoking or just smelling. Now how can all that be white rhino? Good smoke though. Strongest stuff yet.
fallenangel
Active member
i still have my stardust seeds.they did seem like a very stable starin . hmmmmm think they could be used in some very interesting crosses .......
wickedpete66
Active member
fallenangel said:
sd13 has very dominant n.l. characteristics (except for the taste). nl hybrids are pretty much all I grow. mostly for taste and the non drowsy high. strain was very stable they all looked the same. not bad for a first time cross
G
Guest
Papa and Junior
sumo
Member
Got the Nirvana AK47 vegging over a month now. Rockin the SIS carbon filter. 70f in the shade. The floor is total shade.12 plants waiting on sex to show. I have pre-pre flowers and just don't want to accidentally chop a female. I'm sure you know that pre male flower look of a dragons mouth almost. Instead of that symmetrical () you get that mouth of Dune creature look but just can't chop for doubt. Or am I just high on the White Rhino.
AbbieDoobie
Active member
Hey, sumo....I have the original post that Maliboo made on OG on how to build a C13 his way. It's only the text with no pics, but all of his details are there. Some really good info. Would you like me to post it here?
~Abbie
~Abbie
sumo
Member
It would be nostalgic but may misslead without a disclaimer. The technology is evolving. Labor for labor and dollar for dollar darkroom vents are better than pvc elbows. The dayton is ok for those on tight budget but a good centrifugal kicks major ass.
Post away Abbie maybe it will stir up some ghosts.
Post away Abbie maybe it will stir up some ghosts.
mysta177
Active member
ABB
I have the original also (printed). It can be scanned and put on with a couple of missing pages. Nice grow to booth you and sumo ....some nice looking cabs YO. ABB do you still have your light hung diagonally? I thought it was a good idea for space so I hung mine the same way. I miss both of your guys thread on og but damn its nice to find some 411 here. Please take look at my pics and critique them if you will. I just started my sourD and they dont look so promising.
I have the original also (printed). It can be scanned and put on with a couple of missing pages. Nice grow to booth you and sumo ....some nice looking cabs YO. ABB do you still have your light hung diagonally? I thought it was a good idea for space so I hung mine the same way. I miss both of your guys thread on og but damn its nice to find some 411 here. Please take look at my pics and critique them if you will. I just started my sourD and they dont look so promising.
AbbieDoobie
Active member
OK, Sumo....here it is in all it's gory details....the original 'How to build a C13' instructions as posted by Maliboo on Overgrow many moons ago.....
Home DePot Project: Mill's Pride C13 Cabinet
I got just about everything for my cabinet except the light and fan from Home dePot, and since so many people have a Home de Pot near them, I thought I'd post step-by-step how I converted the Mill's Pride C13 Closet they carry into a 250watt grow cab.
http://www.millspride.com
This closet is approx. 5 square feet (30"w x 24 5/8"D x 69 3/4"H) which is perfect for a 250 watt HPS to deliver 50 watts per square foot.
While 400 watts is possible, it requires more electricity (more expensive to run), more height (more distance from the plants so they don't burn), a more elaborate cooling system (more work), and blows hotter air into the room the C13 is in. And 400w will heat up a room. And do you get more yeild in a C13? Not really. Will you get more headaches trying to keep temperatures in check? Probably.
The cabinet has room enough to bring (5) plants to harvest in 10" planters. I'm starting off with (12) plants in 4" planters which I'll transplant into 6" planters after 3 weeks, then into (5) 10" planters.
I live in an upstairs apartment, so anyone can build this. The only power tool I used was a drill.
SHOPPING LIST
Here's the final cost for this C13 project. You can build this exact cabinet for approx. $160 + your light and exhaust fan. All together from scratch, expect to spend about $500. Everything is listed here, the only additional tools you need are a drill, 3/16 drill bit, a hammer, and a phillips screwdriver.
Mills Pride C13 Cabinet 89.00 Home DePot
30" x 65" x 5/8" Malamine or Plywood 24.00 Home DePot
(10) 90° 1½" Black PVC (10) x 1.27 12.70 Home DePot
4" Duct Sleeve 3.00 Home DePot
Dryer Vent Kit 9.95 Home DePot
Furniture Glides 6.98 Home DePot
3/4 x 5/16 Rubber Foam Weatherseal 2.97 Home DePot
3/4 x 3/16 Vinyl Foam Weatherseal 2.97 Home DePot
Silicone Rubber Sealant (white caulk) 5.00 Home Depot
Dripless Caulking Gun 4.00 Home DePot
(2) Bags #8 Screw Eyes (2) x .78 1.56 Home DePot
(2) Bags 1½" S-Hooks (2) x .78 1.56 Home DePot
Box 4-d 1½" nails 3.00 Home DePot
Household Goop 3.00 Home DePot
Bungee 3.00 grocery store or auto parts store
16 piece Hole Saw Kit 16.50 eBay
Additionally:
Illuminator Reflector & American Pride 250w HPS system
$174 from:
http://www.pfolighting.com/HortDeta...VendorPart=7170
or $222.44 from:
http://www.1000bulbs.com///product.php?product=2729
or Illuminator Reflector seperately $69.04:
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=1550
250w HPS Bulb $24 Home dePot (included with above combo)
Dayton 265cfm Blower 85.00 BGHydro
4" Round Blower Adapter 10.00 BGHydro
www.bghydro.com
Digital 10amp Timer $15 K-Mart
Shower Curtain Rod $9.99 Department Store
4" Computer Fan 12v; 27CFM; 1.2w $9.95 Fry's Electronics
AC/DC Adapter - 5w; 6 different voltage settings $6.99 Fry's Electronics
QUICK LINKS
First C13 grow pictorial: BCSC NL#5 + Sensi Seed Bank's Northern Lights
Start of 2nd C13 grow: G13 in a C13
Completed 2nd grow pictorial
Start of 3rd C13 grow: F1 Hybrid Seed Making
Completed 3rd grow pictorial
Start of 4th C13 grow: Stardust 13
Hanging a Dayton Blower
Adjusting the Doors
Carbon Filter
The Bottom Shelf
The first step is to prepare the bottom shelf. For this I had to buy a 16 piece hole saw kit off eBay for around 10 bucks, Home DePot doesn't carry these. Using the 2" hole saw, I put the passive intake holes symmetrically on the center lines of the shelf. 3" in from the sides, and 4" in from the front and back. In the back I added an extra hole to run the power cords through.
Its a good idea to get your pots or hydro basin or whatever you're gonna use to grow in before drilling the intake holes for the bottom shelf, that way you'll know exactly where the free space is and you can put the holes as close to the plants as you can.
I thought about putting my intakes in the corners, but with my five pot layout this pattern is much better. Each plant has at least 2 intakes near them so they all get lots of circulation where its important: the underside where transpiration happens.
Light Traps
The Dayton blower's 4" dia. exhaust requires at least 6" dia. of intake (1.5 x exhaust dia.) so I used (4) 1½" holes, plus the extra one for cords. I got (10) of these 90° PVC elbows from Home DePot for $1.27 each. Two of them make a decent light trap for the intakes. I used a tube of Household Goop to set them in place, then when that dried 24 hours later I rimmed the top with white caulk.
BTW, Black PVC works better at absorbing light than white, which as we know reflects light.
I also attached some furniture glides to the corners to make it easier to slide it around on the carpet.
The Top Shelf
On the top shelf you have to drill a 4" hole with the hole saw kit for the exhaust. I got a 4" long duct sleeve from Home dePot to use as a chimney and attached it with Household Goop and white caulk.
You're going to need your reflector and fan before you can plan the top shelf. Just set them on the shelf how you want them then mark where you need to drill. I used #4 screw eyes and 1½" S-hooks from Home DePot. I drilled the holes for the screw eyes with a 3/16" drill.
The last photo shows the exact dimensions on my C13 with an Illuminator reflector and Dayton blower.
The blower should be hung as high as possible with bungee or a rubber strap to absorb vibrations.
You still have an extra shelf in case you fuck one up. Once you're sure its all good you can nail the shelves for added support. Especially the bottom shelf.
The Back
The flimsey cardboard backing that comes with the C13 has to be replaced with plywood for structural support. I had Home DePot cut a piece of 5/8" thick plywood 30" x 65" and nailed it every 5" with 1½" nails. I then calked the inside with white calk to light-proof.
On a later trip to Home dePot I saw that they also carry large sheets of white malamine, which is the exact same stuff the C13 is made out of, for the same price as plywood. So now I would recommend using that instead of plywood.
I didn't use part K "toe kick" in order to allow more free flow of air. I have it set aside though so I can just set it in place when I need to go super-stealth.
I also didn't use part M "support rail" because it just distorts the shape of the cabinet. You're better off just squaring the cab with the 30" x 65" plywood.
At first I hung a mylar emergency blanket over the back, but later I'll paint it white because the airflow from the intakes causes the mylar to ripple making a little bit of sound. There's some super reflective elastomeric roof coating paint I'm gonna look into getting...
The Doors
In order to light-proof the cabinet, I used 3/4" wide x 3/16" thick x 17' long vinyl foam weatherseal around the edges before attaching the doors and adjusting the hinges so the doors smoothly fit the weatherseal. These hinges are fantastic! Easy to adjust and they hold the doors closed with spring tension.
At first I used 5/16" thick rubber foam weatherseal, but that was too thick. It did work perfectly for the gap between the doors in the center though.
When applying the weather stripping, leave the paper backing on so the doors have less friction when they make contact.
The Exhaust
The final step in light-proofing the C13 is to light proof the exhaust for the flowering phase. You can go cheap and add this dryer vent kit I got from Home dePot for $9.95. Along with the curved louvres vent, it comes with the aluminum 4" hose and hose clamps I used for the blower.
Because I mounted my exhaust on the top of the cab the louvres won't close by themselves though, in order to do that the exhaust would have to come out a side of the cab with the vent mounted vertically the way it was designed. I didn't do that because I didn't want the exhaust blowing horizontally.
Later, I decided I need to add some:
Odor Control
It's better to go deluxe and put a carbon scrubber over the chimney. I use this lovely Can-Filter Can 33. You can get it online for $120 from:
http://growgeek.com/activated-charcoal.html
The only modification needed for the Can 33 in order to blow through it rather than pull through it, is to remove the pre-filter dust sock from the outside, then line the inside with it.
Or you could try to put your own scrubber together for about half that price:
http://www.overgrow.com/edge/showth...threadid=363242
With a scrubber you eliminate odor and significantly reduce the noise coming out of the cabinet as well as light proof the exhaust.
Circulation
You're also going to need some circulation fans to keep the seedlings strong and blow the warm air out from under the light bulb. I like to use PC fans because they're small, use little power, and are very adjustable.
The wiring is simple, I was puzzled at first when I saw three wires coming outta the fans, but theres a 3-4 pin power adapter included that turns it into one red and one black.
The great thing about this power supply is that its switchable to 6 different voltages, in effect giving you 6 different speeds! You can also switch the polarity, so it doesn't matter which wire you splice to the fan's reds and blacks. And it has a 6' cord.
When hooking up more than one fan, just splice all the red wires together, and all the black wires together.
Wickedpete66 came up with the great idea to mount them with a shower curtain rod. I just tied mine on with some string. You want the fans to be just rustling the tops of the plants.
Once they've gotten bigger, I switch from 2 fans on a rod to 1 fan directly under the bulb attached with a short chain.
My Super-Simple Accelerated Veg Method
Here's a rundown on the growing system I'm using with this C13 in order to harvest (5) females from a (12) pack of seeds:
I start off with (12) 4" planters from Home dePot:
http://www.planter.com/hi_glossplanters.asp
And one 10qt. bag of Scotts Seed Starting Soil from Home dePot. This soil is best for starting seeds because it has the right texture for new born roots. I initially wet the soil with 1 teaspoon per quart (20ml per gallon) of Alaska Fish Emulsion 5-1-1.
In about 2-3 weeks I transplant into (11) 6" pots. I say 11 because I'm planning for at least one weakling or no-show, and (11) pots fit together nicely in a 4x3x4 pattern. I use one 2 cubic foot bag of Miracle Gro Potting Soil with 20% extra added perlite for the transplants. Miracle Gro is a very high quality potting soil with slow release nutrients that won't affect the taste of your plants.
After approx. 3 weeks when the first true leaves begin to fade to yellow, dose with ½ tsp. per qt. (10ml per gallon) Pure Blend Pro Accelerated Vegetative Formula.
Thereafter wait until the pot is dry and lightweight, then give 1 cup or so of plain water just to tide them over with a little drink the day before soaking and feeding with ½ tsp. per qt. (10ml per gallon) Pure Blend Pro Accelerated Vegetative Formula.
Feed this dose with every soaking approx. every 3-5 days depending on weather and size of plants.
After approx. 30 days vegging or 12-14 inches tall I switch to the 12/12 flowering cycle, then when they're mature enough to show sex I pick 5 girls and transplant them into 10" pots and continue with the ½ tsp. per qt. (10ml per gallon) Pure Blend Pro feeding with every soaking, now using their Flowering Formula for Soil.
Couldn't get any simpler! And there you have your C13 maxed out with (5) plants from seed!
Home DePot Project: Mill's Pride C13 Cabinet
I got just about everything for my cabinet except the light and fan from Home dePot, and since so many people have a Home de Pot near them, I thought I'd post step-by-step how I converted the Mill's Pride C13 Closet they carry into a 250watt grow cab.
http://www.millspride.com
This closet is approx. 5 square feet (30"w x 24 5/8"D x 69 3/4"H) which is perfect for a 250 watt HPS to deliver 50 watts per square foot.
While 400 watts is possible, it requires more electricity (more expensive to run), more height (more distance from the plants so they don't burn), a more elaborate cooling system (more work), and blows hotter air into the room the C13 is in. And 400w will heat up a room. And do you get more yeild in a C13? Not really. Will you get more headaches trying to keep temperatures in check? Probably.
The cabinet has room enough to bring (5) plants to harvest in 10" planters. I'm starting off with (12) plants in 4" planters which I'll transplant into 6" planters after 3 weeks, then into (5) 10" planters.
I live in an upstairs apartment, so anyone can build this. The only power tool I used was a drill.
SHOPPING LIST
Here's the final cost for this C13 project. You can build this exact cabinet for approx. $160 + your light and exhaust fan. All together from scratch, expect to spend about $500. Everything is listed here, the only additional tools you need are a drill, 3/16 drill bit, a hammer, and a phillips screwdriver.
Mills Pride C13 Cabinet 89.00 Home DePot
30" x 65" x 5/8" Malamine or Plywood 24.00 Home DePot
(10) 90° 1½" Black PVC (10) x 1.27 12.70 Home DePot
4" Duct Sleeve 3.00 Home DePot
Dryer Vent Kit 9.95 Home DePot
Furniture Glides 6.98 Home DePot
3/4 x 5/16 Rubber Foam Weatherseal 2.97 Home DePot
3/4 x 3/16 Vinyl Foam Weatherseal 2.97 Home DePot
Silicone Rubber Sealant (white caulk) 5.00 Home Depot
Dripless Caulking Gun 4.00 Home DePot
(2) Bags #8 Screw Eyes (2) x .78 1.56 Home DePot
(2) Bags 1½" S-Hooks (2) x .78 1.56 Home DePot
Box 4-d 1½" nails 3.00 Home DePot
Household Goop 3.00 Home DePot
Bungee 3.00 grocery store or auto parts store
16 piece Hole Saw Kit 16.50 eBay
Additionally:
Illuminator Reflector & American Pride 250w HPS system
$174 from:
http://www.pfolighting.com/HortDeta...VendorPart=7170
or $222.44 from:
http://www.1000bulbs.com///product.php?product=2729
or Illuminator Reflector seperately $69.04:
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=1550
250w HPS Bulb $24 Home dePot (included with above combo)
Dayton 265cfm Blower 85.00 BGHydro
4" Round Blower Adapter 10.00 BGHydro
www.bghydro.com
Digital 10amp Timer $15 K-Mart
Shower Curtain Rod $9.99 Department Store
4" Computer Fan 12v; 27CFM; 1.2w $9.95 Fry's Electronics
AC/DC Adapter - 5w; 6 different voltage settings $6.99 Fry's Electronics
QUICK LINKS
First C13 grow pictorial: BCSC NL#5 + Sensi Seed Bank's Northern Lights
Start of 2nd C13 grow: G13 in a C13
Completed 2nd grow pictorial
Start of 3rd C13 grow: F1 Hybrid Seed Making
Completed 3rd grow pictorial
Start of 4th C13 grow: Stardust 13
Hanging a Dayton Blower
Adjusting the Doors
Carbon Filter
The Bottom Shelf
The first step is to prepare the bottom shelf. For this I had to buy a 16 piece hole saw kit off eBay for around 10 bucks, Home DePot doesn't carry these. Using the 2" hole saw, I put the passive intake holes symmetrically on the center lines of the shelf. 3" in from the sides, and 4" in from the front and back. In the back I added an extra hole to run the power cords through.
Its a good idea to get your pots or hydro basin or whatever you're gonna use to grow in before drilling the intake holes for the bottom shelf, that way you'll know exactly where the free space is and you can put the holes as close to the plants as you can.
I thought about putting my intakes in the corners, but with my five pot layout this pattern is much better. Each plant has at least 2 intakes near them so they all get lots of circulation where its important: the underside where transpiration happens.
Light Traps
The Dayton blower's 4" dia. exhaust requires at least 6" dia. of intake (1.5 x exhaust dia.) so I used (4) 1½" holes, plus the extra one for cords. I got (10) of these 90° PVC elbows from Home DePot for $1.27 each. Two of them make a decent light trap for the intakes. I used a tube of Household Goop to set them in place, then when that dried 24 hours later I rimmed the top with white caulk.
BTW, Black PVC works better at absorbing light than white, which as we know reflects light.
I also attached some furniture glides to the corners to make it easier to slide it around on the carpet.
The Top Shelf
On the top shelf you have to drill a 4" hole with the hole saw kit for the exhaust. I got a 4" long duct sleeve from Home dePot to use as a chimney and attached it with Household Goop and white caulk.
You're going to need your reflector and fan before you can plan the top shelf. Just set them on the shelf how you want them then mark where you need to drill. I used #4 screw eyes and 1½" S-hooks from Home DePot. I drilled the holes for the screw eyes with a 3/16" drill.
The last photo shows the exact dimensions on my C13 with an Illuminator reflector and Dayton blower.
The blower should be hung as high as possible with bungee or a rubber strap to absorb vibrations.
You still have an extra shelf in case you fuck one up. Once you're sure its all good you can nail the shelves for added support. Especially the bottom shelf.
The Back
The flimsey cardboard backing that comes with the C13 has to be replaced with plywood for structural support. I had Home DePot cut a piece of 5/8" thick plywood 30" x 65" and nailed it every 5" with 1½" nails. I then calked the inside with white calk to light-proof.
On a later trip to Home dePot I saw that they also carry large sheets of white malamine, which is the exact same stuff the C13 is made out of, for the same price as plywood. So now I would recommend using that instead of plywood.
I didn't use part K "toe kick" in order to allow more free flow of air. I have it set aside though so I can just set it in place when I need to go super-stealth.
I also didn't use part M "support rail" because it just distorts the shape of the cabinet. You're better off just squaring the cab with the 30" x 65" plywood.
At first I hung a mylar emergency blanket over the back, but later I'll paint it white because the airflow from the intakes causes the mylar to ripple making a little bit of sound. There's some super reflective elastomeric roof coating paint I'm gonna look into getting...
The Doors
In order to light-proof the cabinet, I used 3/4" wide x 3/16" thick x 17' long vinyl foam weatherseal around the edges before attaching the doors and adjusting the hinges so the doors smoothly fit the weatherseal. These hinges are fantastic! Easy to adjust and they hold the doors closed with spring tension.
At first I used 5/16" thick rubber foam weatherseal, but that was too thick. It did work perfectly for the gap between the doors in the center though.
When applying the weather stripping, leave the paper backing on so the doors have less friction when they make contact.
The Exhaust
The final step in light-proofing the C13 is to light proof the exhaust for the flowering phase. You can go cheap and add this dryer vent kit I got from Home dePot for $9.95. Along with the curved louvres vent, it comes with the aluminum 4" hose and hose clamps I used for the blower.
Because I mounted my exhaust on the top of the cab the louvres won't close by themselves though, in order to do that the exhaust would have to come out a side of the cab with the vent mounted vertically the way it was designed. I didn't do that because I didn't want the exhaust blowing horizontally.
Later, I decided I need to add some:
Odor Control
It's better to go deluxe and put a carbon scrubber over the chimney. I use this lovely Can-Filter Can 33. You can get it online for $120 from:
http://growgeek.com/activated-charcoal.html
The only modification needed for the Can 33 in order to blow through it rather than pull through it, is to remove the pre-filter dust sock from the outside, then line the inside with it.
Or you could try to put your own scrubber together for about half that price:
http://www.overgrow.com/edge/showth...threadid=363242
With a scrubber you eliminate odor and significantly reduce the noise coming out of the cabinet as well as light proof the exhaust.
Circulation
You're also going to need some circulation fans to keep the seedlings strong and blow the warm air out from under the light bulb. I like to use PC fans because they're small, use little power, and are very adjustable.
The wiring is simple, I was puzzled at first when I saw three wires coming outta the fans, but theres a 3-4 pin power adapter included that turns it into one red and one black.
The great thing about this power supply is that its switchable to 6 different voltages, in effect giving you 6 different speeds! You can also switch the polarity, so it doesn't matter which wire you splice to the fan's reds and blacks. And it has a 6' cord.
When hooking up more than one fan, just splice all the red wires together, and all the black wires together.
Wickedpete66 came up with the great idea to mount them with a shower curtain rod. I just tied mine on with some string. You want the fans to be just rustling the tops of the plants.
Once they've gotten bigger, I switch from 2 fans on a rod to 1 fan directly under the bulb attached with a short chain.
My Super-Simple Accelerated Veg Method
Here's a rundown on the growing system I'm using with this C13 in order to harvest (5) females from a (12) pack of seeds:
I start off with (12) 4" planters from Home dePot:
http://www.planter.com/hi_glossplanters.asp
And one 10qt. bag of Scotts Seed Starting Soil from Home dePot. This soil is best for starting seeds because it has the right texture for new born roots. I initially wet the soil with 1 teaspoon per quart (20ml per gallon) of Alaska Fish Emulsion 5-1-1.
In about 2-3 weeks I transplant into (11) 6" pots. I say 11 because I'm planning for at least one weakling or no-show, and (11) pots fit together nicely in a 4x3x4 pattern. I use one 2 cubic foot bag of Miracle Gro Potting Soil with 20% extra added perlite for the transplants. Miracle Gro is a very high quality potting soil with slow release nutrients that won't affect the taste of your plants.
After approx. 3 weeks when the first true leaves begin to fade to yellow, dose with ½ tsp. per qt. (10ml per gallon) Pure Blend Pro Accelerated Vegetative Formula.
Thereafter wait until the pot is dry and lightweight, then give 1 cup or so of plain water just to tide them over with a little drink the day before soaking and feeding with ½ tsp. per qt. (10ml per gallon) Pure Blend Pro Accelerated Vegetative Formula.
Feed this dose with every soaking approx. every 3-5 days depending on weather and size of plants.
After approx. 30 days vegging or 12-14 inches tall I switch to the 12/12 flowering cycle, then when they're mature enough to show sex I pick 5 girls and transplant them into 10" pots and continue with the ½ tsp. per qt. (10ml per gallon) Pure Blend Pro feeding with every soaking, now using their Flowering Formula for Soil.
Couldn't get any simpler! And there you have your C13 maxed out with (5) plants from seed!
AbbieDoobie
Active member
I guess everyone read Maliboo's post there, and then went into shock. LOL It all sounds pretty daunting to a beginner, but it fucking rocks once you build one and see it 'dialed in' and producing some killer smoke for yourself....
Be well, everyone...
~Abbie
Be well, everyone...
~Abbie
You forgot to mention hole saws to cut holes to run ducting through.As far as a 400w vs a 250w HPS in a C13,you will get more yeild (if all things are under control) especially more yeild of more "Dense" nuggs.A 250 though would be best unless wanting to battle temps (especially in the summer).
J
JH151399-OG
Jnugg said:
What?
It is a fact that given the grower has experience and has his/her growspace in complete control ie;Temps,RH%,ventilation etc. etc., that a 400w HID will give you denser buds than those produced by a 250w HID.
With a 250w HID you would have less heat therefore elimintaing theneed for a 6" 400+cfm inline exhuast fan which would add more to the elec bill.You will get 50wpsf which means you will get a nice yeild and you can still produce some dense nuggets depending on strain/variety of MJ but they still won't be as dense as the nuggets produced by a 400w or greter HID.
With a 250w HID you would have less heat therefore elimintaing theneed for a 6" 400+cfm inline exhuast fan which would add more to the elec bill.You will get 50wpsf which means you will get a nice yeild and you can still produce some dense nuggets depending on strain/variety of MJ but they still won't be as dense as the nuggets produced by a 400w or greter HID.
