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*The K.I.S.S. Method*

Maj.Cottonmouth

We are Farmers
Veteran
I honestly believe you will have good results either way, if it was me I would transplant into coco and pH it like hydro. I am huge fan of coco, the stuff is just flat out awesome.
 

oti$

Active member
I would just try to get as much of the happy frog out of the root ball as possible then ph for coco
 

Joint Lock

Active member
Just a Thought for others with small setups. I have a 75 gallon Freshwater Aquarium and I simply use water from it to feed my DWC with 5g/gal MaxiBloom. The aquarium buffers my tap ph from an extremely high 8.8 down to 6.5 and once Its in the res its lowers down to 6.2-6.3. I have been doing this for almost a solid year and have amazing results. No Deficiencies all the way til it was time to starve the girls before chop. No Root rot or fungus of any kind. The key is to keep your aquarium running as clean as possible at all times. I also made a DIY water chiller using a 12v personal refrigerator and some copper tubing. Hope this helps.

Wrong Maxibloom buffers it down to 6.2
 

Maj.Cottonmouth

We are Farmers
Veteran
Do you think I'll have a huge chance of root rot if I'm feeding it like coco (small, rootbound pot fed 3-5x during lights on) even though the center mass will be Happy Frog? Are you sure I won't have to make any pH adjustments to account for the gallon of Happy Frog in the center? That'd be pretty awesome if not, would save a lot of time not having to maintain two reservoirs for 2+ months...

As long as they are not sitting in a puddle you should not have any problems with root rot. I do not think pH will be an issue either, if you are concerned you could run it on the high end of hydro at 6.1 to 6.2
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i been using pro-tekt for years as ph up, always got clouds and never had issues.


Same here ! as soon as i stir it after adding the protekt the cloud goes away & have never seen any problems from it !
 

hayday

Well-known member
Veteran
Im a new convert to the KISS method here.I have been running organics since I began growing ten years back.I choose to run soil.

It's week two and all my converted clones are perking up.My moms... not so much but I'm not giving up on them yet.

I know this is a hydro method and all the clues in this huge thread say it's do-able in soil,but it was never really mentioned that this works best drain to waste as near as I could tell.
I'm kinda scaired about salt build up as I'm not really set up for drain to waste.

You guys ever run into problems with minimal-no runoff?
Is there any pro-active thing I need to do?
 

Maj.Cottonmouth

We are Farmers
Veteran
I run full strength through blumats with zero runoff without issues. These guys have a bit of tip burn because I fucked up at about 5 weeks and one of the five gallon top offs ended up with double nutes. Stupid stoner.

And I highly recommend switching to coco and using blumats. It is the trifecta of easy growing.

Headband from last round
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GSC from last round
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xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
No runoff works great. It's an advanced method. If you want to run soil it's totally doable. It works great in soil. May not be ideal but it works great. I doubt you'd see any issue as long as you are doing something about targeting an ideal ec based on plant usage indicators. Don't wanna do a no run off at too high a strength but in soil you could a low feed and a slurry test every week to see if you need to repeat a low ec feeding or even better dial down til you only give them what they need. Ec is dictated by plant needs. If your not growing fast enough any given "correct" strength may be too strong or if you are increasing efficiency in some aspect that causes your plants to grow really well your feed may prove a lil light. Check runoff or do a slurry test it's easy than measuring a teaspoon of powder. It'll take it from an adequate growth formula to an ideal one with just the most minimal effort. But I could grow my entire set up at 540 ec. Clones and all. I don't but I could. Your results will vary on light efficiency and output.
 

hayday

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the suggestions and also for giving me some confidence.Coco might be in the future for me but I'm invested in soil for now.
Next obstacle is getting over the non re-newable medium. I've recycled my entire grow history and although its been moderately successful, my soil has kinda crashed after a move and that's what led me to try KISS.
So far things are looking happy:tiphat:
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
i think kiss means a strength of feed and a formula that works at all stages to create a one tank feed for an entire operation for plants at all stages.

i think its important to realize that strength may be different for each grow depending on your highest needs plant phase. it has to be strong enough for your highest demanding light intense canopy yet weak enough to not burn clones. thats about 1.0-1.1 in my set up or around 550 ppm on a 500 scale meter, yours may be different.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the suggestions and also for giving me some confidence.Coco might be in the future for me but I'm invested in soil for now.
Next obstacle is getting over the non re-newable medium. I've recycled my entire grow history and although its been moderately successful, my soil has kinda crashed after a move and that's what led me to try KISS.
So far things are looking happy:tiphat:
heres the playbook. you could do recycled coco. just be really gentle and keep your medium moist and try not to lock it up too often. lots of folks do. just flush it with a dillute feed strengeth till it comes out ec'd and ph'd the way it goes in. a lot of folks do beds indoor. it kicks ass if you have a dialed environment that can handle massive rh spikes during the dark period. i recommend a 180 pint per 12 k and 5 tons of forced air split system air ac with a standard growshop sunleaves (?) humidifier for grow rooms wired to a humidistat for humidifiying during lights on. veg and stretch daytime 85 canopy 75 rh 1000 ppm co2 . night time 80f 70 rh flush cos out if possible.
flowering day ten through til last two weeks.
daytime 83 canopy 65 rh 1200 ppm cos
night time 78 rh 55-60 cos flush co2 if you can.

grow your plants to veg and on the day you flip you just plug em in like a garden bed and put your sprayers on your rez pump on a timer. drain to waist. from the tables.

your plants will love this once you figure out how to grow in the beds.

if you want to really do well use maxigrow through veg and the first ten days of stretch switch to mb at day ten til flush. you could do this at 550easily in most beginner hps rooms. of course that wouldnt be kiss. it would just be the gh formula which......aint bad. lol its the only cannabis nutes ill buy. i make my own with jacks a different kiss type formula for peet or coco. but i like mb too its just not as cheap.
 

supernuck

Active member
At what point do you guys normally start feeding plants from seed the full 7g per gallon? I have some at 2 weeks from seed right now that I have been doing at 3.5-4.5g per gallon, they are rooting well in their new cups and being hand watered to a bit of runoff each day. Cups are the standard Red solo cup size but cut in half. They are Chem 4 x Tres Dawg seeds I received in 2008 from a fellow ICmagger, under a 250w mh.


ic
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
to those who use the maxibloom or kiss method, if youve run something like canna in the past, say for a 1000 watt light, how much is the difference on yield, and how much is the difference on quality?
Im all for saving a few dollars and spending 15 minutes less mixing nutes every week, but not if it effects these.
For example, if it doesnt make tip top quality like canna, that could be the difference in a 28 and a 22 dollar p. thats 600 loss. Also, if you get 2 lbs and 3 ounces with canna n get 2 lbs 1 ounce with maxi, thats 2 zips that would make it worth it to go with the canna.

Thoughts/experience?
 

Trich_Tyson

Active member
Curious about that too.. the mixing is a bummer for me..

on the mixing note.. I wanted to bump up a tip that's been mentioned but I was only recently put on to by whiteberries.

For those with precipitate problems; mix in a larger volume of water. I started mixing to hell ~15-20g in a quart of boiling water in two jars for a 5 gal bucket. Tons of sediment.

I started boiling up 2 kettles worth of water and by the time the second kettle is in there i'm 100% dissolved. I just swirl the bucket around. Fill the rest up cold.

Game changer for me.
 

GoneP

Member
Merry Christmas all! So I made the dive into Maxibloom/K.I.S.S as money is tight and I'm all for keeping things simple.

I'm using RO water, but buying 5 gallons at a time from the RO machines is getting to be a pain, I'd really like to start using my tap but I'm not sure if my city water is ok. Here is the water report from last year. Total PPM's of water (TDS) was 270, is this too high to use with maxibloom? I don't have a TDS meter at the moment but will be getting one soon. can someone with a little more knowledge on this matter chime in?

Thanks.


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