The IC Organic Growers Community Thread.

[BurnOne]

So I was wondering is you guys are PH'ing your compost tea?

You're not from around here, are you?

Organic pH issues

I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.
The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates work to "buffer" the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.
Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I'll mention dolomite lime's pH correction benefits.
A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.
With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like Pure Blend Pro, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.
So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.

 

[BurnOne]

Lemon d x sour kosher. Organic of course.

Looks like your plant might be "praying for magnesium". It looks like the leaves are pointing up.
A pic from the side would be helpful.
Burn1

 

[Ez Rider]

Hey BurnOne,

Not sure is this is the correct place, but here goes...
I'm switching to tropf-blumats for irrigation. I'm looking for a water only, pro-mix based recipe for both veg and flower. I need something I can mix and use immediately(within a few days at most). I don't have the space to have pots without plants sitting around "cooking". Am I asking for too much?

I currently use the PBP line in promix, but I'm afraid it may clog the blumats. Also, running plain water would eliminate the need for a reservoir. I could run right off the tap.

I've been looking for info on organics/blumats, but it's been random and scattered at best.

Thanks
Ez

 

[dank.frank]

1/2 bale Pro-Mix Bx
1 Bag organic soil (FFOF, Roots, ect)
1/2 bag EWC
5 gallon chunky perlite

1/2c alfalfa meal
1/2c dry molasses
1c kelp meal
1c blood meal
1c bone meal
1/2c seabird guano
2tbsp Sul-Po-Mg
1/2c azomite
1/3c dolomite
1/3c gypsum
2/3c oyster shell flour

1/4 tbsp BioVam
1/4 tbsp BioAg Vam


You're not asking for too much at all.

Given the environment around the foliage, you should have results similar to this:

dank.Frank

 

[Ez Rider]

1/2 bale Pro-Mix Bx
1 Bag organic soil (FFOF, Roots, ect)
1/2 bag EWC
5 gallon chunky perlite

1/2c alfalfa meal
1/2c dry molasses
1c kelp meal
1c blood meal
1c bone meal
1/2c seabird guano
2tbsp Sul-Po-Mg
1/2c azomite
1/3c dolomite
1/3c gypsum
2/3c oyster shell flour

1/4 tbsp BioVam
1/4 tbsp BioAg Vam


You're not asking for too much at all.

Given the environment around the foliage, you should have results similar to this:

View Image

View Image





dank.Frank

Looks easy enough...besides mixing it all up. Would this work for both veg and flower? I usually start my veg in 6" pots, then 1gal pots, then finish in 3.5gal pots.

Nice looking plants Where are you at with gram/watt using this mix?

Would I want to use tap or RO for my water supply? You adding anything to your water?

I'm not familiar with BioVam or BioAg Vam...would you please explain?

 

[dank.frank]

1. Same mix for veg and flower. Those pictured were flowered in 3 gallon bags.

2. I don't worry about GPW - too many variables involved. It's not just about the soil mix - it's about the environment surrounding the foliage, type of lighting, consistency in watering, genetics, etc. So for me to give any figure would be completely relative.

3. You should always be using RO water - as it is pH neutral and has little to no EC - meaning it eliminates any variables you might encounter by using tap.

4. Water only. No direct need for additives, although, if you feel the need you can push the plants harder by using bottled organic nutrients, homemade teas or foliar sprays, etc.

5. BioVam (T and J Enterprises) and BioAG Vam (BioAg) are both beneficial bacteria products.



dank.Frank

 

[thelaughingman]

Thanks for the warm welcome and an answer Burn one well i see there is not need to PH since i mixed dolomite lime into my backyard soil and my ACT tank consists of EWC and BG.
thanks again

 

[Ez Rider]

1. Same mix for veg and flower. Those pictured were flowered in 3 gallon bags.

2. I don't worry about GPW - too many variables involved. It's not just about the soil mix - it's about the environment surrounding the foliage, type of lighting, consistency in watering, genetics, etc. So for me to give any figure would be completely relative.

3. You should always be using RO water - as it is pH neutral and has little to no EC - meaning it eliminates any variables you might encounter by using tap.

4. Water only. No direct need for additives, although, if you feel the need you can push the plants harder by using bottled organic nutrients, homemade teas or foliar sprays, etc.

5. BioVam (T and J Enterprises) and BioAG Vam (BioAg) are both beneficial bacteria products.



dank.Frank

Thanks for the info.

Let's be relative then...Under 1K's with good environment/genetics, is hitting 1.5-2lbs/1K a realistic goal? I don't overly worry about yield either, but less than 1.5#/1K isn't very cost effective. I grow 9 plants/1K, and I like to see ~3oz/plant with most strains. I'll be using blumats, so the watering should be almost perfect(allegedly).

Glad you recommend RO. That actually makes like simpler for me.

Any special instructions for mixing the soil? Would a coco based organic mix like Slacker work in place of the FFOF?

When you say a "bag" of soil, you mean a 1.5 ft3, correct?

What size bag of worm castings are we talking about?

This mix sounds fairly warm, how big should I get my clones before I can safely put them in it?

 

[BurnOne]

Thanks for the warm welcome and an answer Burn one well i see there is not need to PH since i mixed dolomite lime into my backyard soil and my ACT tank consists of EWC and BG.
thanks again

And there's even more to it than that.
A "living soil" is the most important thing. A rich, living, constantly thriving grow medium works to "buffer" the pH of things added to the grow medium.
I like to think of it like this...
Orange juice is acidic and salad dressing is alkaline. But if I drink a liter of orange juice I don't have to worry about the pH of my body changing until I can no longer absorb food from my stomach and intestines. My gut is full of bacteria and the pH of the food I eat is buffered so my body isn't poisoned by the extreme pH of the foods I consume.
That's probably not the most scientific way to explain it but it works for me.
Hope that helps.
Burn1

 

[dank.frank]

Thanks for the info.

Let's be relative then...Under 1K's with good environment/genetics, is hitting 1.5-2lbs/1K a realistic goal? I don't overly worry about yield either, but less than 1.5#/1K isn't very cost effective. I grow 9 plants/1K, and I like to see ~3oz/plant with most strains. I'll be using blumats, so the watering should be almost perfect(allegedly).

Glad you recommend RO. That actually makes like simpler for me.

Any special instructions for mixing the soil? Would a coco based organic mix like Slacker work in place of the FFOF?

When you say a "bag" of soil, you mean a 1.5 ft3, correct?

What size bag of worm castings are we talking about?

This mix sounds fairly warm, how big should I get my clones before I can safely put them in it?

Yes. 1.5 cu ft bag of soil. Soils like FFOF, etc are blended mediums in the first place, not exactly dirt - so yes, it is very flexible in regards to what you use.

As far as castings, I try to keep in mind what is readily available for most people, so I'm referencing a standard bag of Wiggle Worm, which I think is 30 lbs.

Talking yields is dependent on so many factors. In a sealed room, with ductless A/C, Co2 burner, climate controller. Temps not dropping below 68 not going above 76...relative humidity steady around 48% and Co2 staying around 1000ppm - a 3 gallon bag, strain dependent can be any where from 2.25oz to 4.5oz per plant.



dank.Frank

 

[Luther Burbank]

I was under the impression running at a warmer temperature with co2 added was optimal. I don't have Clarke/Merlin at hand but remember them discussing a higher optimal max into the mid 80s.

 

[dank.frank]

Yeah, I've heard the same...read the same...been told the same. But more plant matter doesn't exactly equate to better flowers. When temperatures increase, resin production decreases...this is a fact. Any temps above 78 - and there is a decrease in resin output. Some of the guys I follow and listen to say even above 75...

Cannabis is the messenger...resin is the message. I want the most resin output possible.



dank.Frank

 

[Granger2]

My impression is that CO2 allows you to grow at higher temps with less stress, not that higher temps are better. At higher temps terpenes evaporate. -granger

 

[mr. gt]

I actually messaged you on the bay VerdentGreen. I saw that pack of Cherry Bomb and instantly looked for the buy it now button!!! I was so excited just to see they're invite only.

Please feel free to invite me anytime : )

~mr. gt

 

[Coba]

I think I may have just found my new sig line.

"Cannabis is the messenger...resin is the message." - dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

FWIW - I stole that from someone else - can't even remember who said it first, to be honest.

But it resonated with me the first time I heard it, so much so that I have perpetuated the saying. Because that is the truth at the heart of the matter. The ultimate goal if you will. To produce the most resin possible.

Wish I could take the original credit for it - because it is a brilliant thing to say.



dank.Frank

 

[Lapides]

oops, wrong thread.

 

[non]

FWIW - I stole that from someone else - can't even remember who said it first, to be honest.

But it resonated with me the first time I heard it, so much so that I have perpetuated the saying. Because that is the truth at the heart of the matter. The ultimate goal if you will. To produce the most resin possible.

Wish I could take the original credit for it - because it is a brilliant thing to say.

dank.Frank

quick googling came up with this, so sam or bubbleman?:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=144374

 

[lobsterbush]

Check out this clone I have vegging.

I was lazy taking cuts this round and they didn't get snipped till the plants were around 2 weeks into flower. The phenos I was interested in rooted strong and I transplanted to beer cups like I normally do. This particular pheno is throwing trics like crazy though.

Will they outgrow this? My clones are stinking the place up...

 

[Big D]

...throwing thrics like crazy.

Will they outgrow this?

Let's hope not.