That stuff I gave you will really help kick up your brix and almost positive you have nothing else like it in your program. It'll do a shitload of other stuff like promote significantly better fungal growth. Really good for better enzyme creation and function within the plant too. With a brix meter it's not just the total number that counts but also the diffusion or spread of the reading which indicates a wider variety of beneficial compounds in your sap.I will order a Brix meter later today.
I tried Eagle-20 as recommend by Krunch and got rid of it for a month then it came back. Was in a grow I was just messing with for fun to have some house plants...lol...and my program and enviro was definitely lacking. I gave some to a friend who was having a big PM problem and sure enough it came back in a month.What about eagle 20 for PM? I have done 2 applications a week apart and that seems to do the trick.
looks better without the dome lol, nice forrest!
A less-than-sharp demarcation line (blurry/fuzzy/diffused) on the screen is an indication of varied atom distribution i.e., an excellent mixture of minerals. For instance, many veteran refractometer users grow forages for animals and also have access to standard lab tests (so as to make possible direct comparisons of brix vis-à-vis other lab tests). They are adamant in insisting a sharp demarcation is an indication of increased simple sugar and therefore lesser high-quality protein (and other life-enhancing substances) at any given brixlevel.
Conversely, they suggest a blurry/fuzzy line predicts more and better quality, proteins (Yankee’s note: malformed proteins are a problem as insects like these). Interestingly,the fuzzy line concept appears to be supported by the ability of astronomers to use refracted light to determine the elemental makeup of distant stars.Starlight, properly refracted, is spread out so that the lines left by various elements can be identified. It is suggested that you think of your readings as, say, 12S (sharp) or perhaps 14D (diffuse). In almost all cases, blurry tastes better. (Yankee’s note: I propose that high brix plants with a ‘fuzzy’ reading will produce better quality buds).
You will quickly, and easily, learn to judge the mid-point of any blurring. Your correct reading lies there.
Blue intensity matters on those models that have a blue background field. When different items reveal the same brix but one has a less intense blue, it will taste sweeter and be higher in calcium, which neutralizes acids. However, the blue background can be overcast by the deep green chlorophyll color of some leafy plants. Do not be discouraged if your field of view appears to "greenout." Simply rotate your body away from the light source and watch for the demarcation as the light intensity diminishes.
Couple questions for you guys growing big dirties. This thread is waaay too long to try to read through to find answers so it might be helpful to all if everyone going big answers these few basics... I know it will help with my planning for next year.
1. When do you start your seeds?
I started them in paper towels around March 10th. Next year will be at least 2-3 weeks earlier. I start in organicubes then go from there to 3 gallon bags and then right into final destination.
2. When do you move them outdoors?
3. What are you top few tips to growing big?
4. What is your avg yield and from what size pot?
5. What are your opinions on seeds vs clones?
6. Do you think that there's a limit to how long you can veg a plant out before you put it outside? Would it be ok to start plants under lights in Early January and get them up to 4x4' before putting them outside?
7. Do you clean out the inside growth of your plants so most of the energy goes to the tips?
Thanks all! Love the pics.