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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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epicorchard

epicorchard

Member
The two plants that died in my garden displayed the same symptoms, and I found white root aphids wreaking havoc when i pulled the plants. If one dies, you should examine the root ball ASAP. In my thread I have a few good pics of the damage.
 
O

Organic Grower

Member
F*ck this is getting complicated, when I was really trying to keep it simple...

So water soluble ag sulfur is recommended for faster results than something like tiger90? http://www.groworganic.com/tiger-90-soil-sulfur-50-lbs.html

And this will bring down the pH of my soil while increasing the hydrogen.. Now the question is how much to apply to bring a 7.5pH to 6.4 in a one yard mound?

And you recommend the fine gypsum top dress to help with that as well as add Ca? How does this effect the ag sulfur application rate?

Do you have an answer for props question about the calcium nitrate? What form is recommended?
 
bamboogardner

bamboogardner

Active member
Organic Grower said:
Also, if my cation saturation rates are Ca 65.5%, Mg 23.7%, and K 9.7%, then my K is actually lower than 1/3 of total Ca and Mg...
Click to expand...

I hate to complicate matters even more Organic. The test you got, is it a standard soil test or a saturated paste test? With the standard soil test it will tell you what percentages etc. are in the soil. If the ratio's are not proper you will get lockout. Now you ask, what is being locked out? That is where a Saturated Paste test comes in. It will tell you what is available to the plant on that particular day that you took the test. Then you can adjust your feeding program to fit what is locked out and what is available. You could have high Ca on your standard test, but it is being locked out, so actually the availability to the plant of the Ca could be lacking.

If you have not done the Saturated Paste soil test, I would highly recommend you do it right away. Logan Labs charges $55.00 for the complete soil test, which is the standard soil test, saturated paste test and nitrogen test too. They will have the results in 5 days after receiving it. Only thing better is the tissue test that was recommended to you earlier and which is a tad more complicated. Michael Astera, a soil expert recommends Logan Labs, but others are good also.

Hope that helps.
 
O

Organic Grower

Member
bamboogardner said:
I hate to complicate matters even more Organic. The test you got, is it a standard soil test or a saturated paste test? With the standard soil test it will tell you what percentages etc. are in the soil. If the ratio's are not proper you will get lockout. Now you ask, what is being locked out? That is where a Saturated Paste test comes in. It will tell you what is available to the plant on that particular day that you took the test. Then you can adjust your feeding program to fit what is locked out and what is available. You could have high Ca on your standard test, but it is being locked out, so actually the availability to the plant of the Ca could be lacking.

If you have not done the Saturated Paste soil test, I would highly recommend you do it right away. Logan Labs charges $55.00 for the complete soil test, which is the standard soil test, saturated paste test and nitrogen test too. They will have the results in 5 days after receiving it. Only thing better is the tissue test that was recommended to you earlier and which is a tad more complicated. Michael Astera, a soil expert recommends Logan Labs, but others are good also.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Ahha..I see. Spinning my wheels again..:woohoo:
 
O

Organic Grower

Member
I keep thinking that it may be a good idea to start another thread with all these problems we're facing, but the value of this one is how many eyes skim through it, opening up great opportunities for these kinds of puzzles to be sorted out.

I apologize to those who are fed up with looking through here and having to weed out our problems to get to the real appeals within. I take no offense if you decide to execute the ignore feature on me..

That being said, I do appreciate all the input and suggestions I can get. Thank you thank you and thank you.
 
bamboogardner

bamboogardner

Active member
Organic Grower said:
H 0%, Na 1.2%

CEC 18.4 meq/100g
Click to expand...

Organic. Any time you have a Ph of over 7.0, you will have 0 Hydrogen. Hydrogen is an anion and is needed for the cations to attach to in order to be adsorbed into the plant. Notice I mentioned adsorbed, not absorbed. But that is another discussion.

You need to drop your Ph and quickly, but not so quick as you kill off the microherd. BTY, Peaceful Valley will not sell you the Agricultural Sulfer unless you have an AG card, which you probably do not.

Go across the street to Nevada County Farm Supply and ask for Matt. He will sell you the Tiger 90 and if you tell him your Ph now and how many gallons of soil you are working with, he will calculate the amount of sulfer to add. It is not much. I would estimate about one TABLESPOON for 200 gallons. In about a week I would do that again. DO NOT USE MORE. More is not better in this case. Slowly but surely is the answer. If you kill your micro herd in the soil, you are in deep shit. I would drench with Rejuvinate or a good tea after you water the sulfur in. You want the microherd to be happy and they love Sulfur, just not a lot of it. Hope that helps. BTW, I did the above and went from 7.0 to 6.2 with Hydrogen equaling 17%, which now lets the plant mine some of the nutrients it needs out of the soil.
 
C

Cep

I was shooting for 8 footers this year, but they are pushing 10-11 and growing into each other. The one thing I notice with the aea products is that the growth rate in veg is pretty impressive but the stretch was not. I'm ok with that because they seem to be stacking well enough. Even though each plant got close to 3 yards this year, I still feel it wasn't enough.

picture.php

Good vibes to you guys. May your gardens be free of tweakers this fall.
 
Rising Moon

Rising Moon

Member
One of my pollen chucks Sunshine OG (Sunshine Daydream x Gogi OG), regularly sprayed with puréed aloe, borage, peppermint, oregano and burdock root, topdressed with homemade EWC.
BD preps sprayed with the moon.
 

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M

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Cep said:
I was shooting for 8 footers this year, but they are pushing 10-11 and growing into each other. The one thing I notice with the aea products is that the growth rate in veg is pretty impressive but the stretch was not. I'm ok with that because they seem to be stacking well enough. Even though each plant got close to 3 yards this year, I still feel it wasn't enough.

View Image
Good vibes to you guys. May your gardens be free of tweakers this fall.
Click to expand...

Were your nitrate levels 200 cep? Any adds.
 
C

Cep

Backyard Farmer said:
I prefer the unimpressive stretch because they get so big on the stuff during the grow phase I also think the "unimpressive" stretch is just better growth more bud sites on the same or smaller frame...Amazing how many Sungolds I pulled off of 1 plant this year.
Click to expand...

I've noticed the same thing on veggies. Crazy fruit set. I'm excited to see what the finished flowers look like.

milkyjoe said:
Were your nitrate levels 200 cep? Any adds.
Click to expand...

Yep, initially the soil was close to 200. My inputs have been minimal. Some CaNO3 (maybe 20g/plant/week for first 3 weeks of bloom) because I suspect there isn't enough Ca available and my soil EC was at .7 mS. I did a small shot of AS to see if it altered sap pH and it didn't but I'm afraid to try more because I've also put gypsum, srp and other things through the droppers. The EC is now at 1.1 mS and I don't really want to go higher than that.

One other thing I did this year is run a considerable dose of Epsom, Molybdenum and fulvic through the drip lines to reduce tissue N. I'll confirm in a week whether or not this was successful with an other tissue analysis. The N levels a month ago were around 3.3% which is the high end of the range for most plants. I don't know whether that N was in Nitrate, Ammonium, or protein form in the tissue but I could use a little more Mg and Mo anyway.
 
L

Luther Burbank

Apologies in full in advance for this post - I'm putting it out here in this thread because I've tried taking it to visitors messages and private messages to no avail. This is a god damn internet forum, for posting about growing plants. This isn't a community to stoke your ego or for you to puff yourself up like a peacock. I'm tired of self-proclaimed adults and "grown fucking men" getting into incredibly petty little arguments and derailing this thread. I'm well aware that this post is contributing to that at the moment but something needs to be said.

Adults don't act like this - children do. Children worry about what people think because some third party said something stupid to them and feel the need to retort so everyone knows they're a big guy. If you're gonna be an insecure little child, go right ahead, but don't hide behind the guise of "being a man" as your justification for bad behavior. This thread this year has been near ruined with the petty back and forth, and it's unhelpful and unnecessary. I can't help but wonder how many of the bigger names many of us are missing would still be posting without the BS that's flying. You disagree with the way someone gardens? Try talking to them as an adult instead of making nasty little jabs, and if you have beef with someone, take it to private and leave the rest of us out of it - or better yet, use the god damn ignore feature for what it was made for.
 
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Yes4Prop215

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
hey cep do you do your own tissue and sap analysis? or are you sending samples into somewhere every week.

where can i get this done?
 
Yes4Prop215

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
had some bad results from the infield testing i did today in anticipation of soil test results later this week.

brix levels in sick plants was abnormally low, at 6-8. single digit brix at this time of year has me scared. i need to get some food into these plants via foliar asap, but hesitant on knowing what exactly to go with. reading people here saying that they are still doing small nitrogen in their sprays? and if ewsf is high in P than i dont want to overdo that. but definitely need some calcium in there should i go with cal25 or just regular calmag, whatever works quickest at this point.

also soil PH looks to be high. 4oz soil to 8oz water raised PH from 6.2 to 6.4 at the 1/2 ratio. at 1/1 ratio (4ox soil to 4oz water) it went up to 6.6 so i am assuming my soil PH is around 6.8-7, i will know for sure when the test comes back but for now field testing shows its definitely higher.

so my main concerns now are getting this brix up via foliar and getting this soil PH down.
 
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