The norcal blend is like 25% worm castings I believe, and the castings themselves are hydrophobic at least when slightly dry. This and some of the other materials make it hard to wet without a wetting agent. I prefer not to use a wetting agent because I believe it will cause its own issues eventually. Even after multiple waterings with drip irrigation you could find dry areas. I'd say you almost have to use a wetting agent with this soil or water it over 2-3 months to get it ready.
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bamboogardner
Active member
In all fairness with EWSF soil I must state this. I am very weary in spending 198 a yard for soil, so I checked EWSF out before purchasing. I had a soil test done and the soil was within Albrechts formula. I did an EC of the soil and it was 750, and Tom Hill recommends between 700 and 800. The soil was spot on for the Cubic Yards ordered and when delivered was not hot or steaming, but I purchased in March.
I planted in early May, both out of the hothouse and 5 gallon clones that were small. No buffer of soil between the plants and the EWSF soil. I must admit, the plants are loving it and are as healthy as can be, some approaching 4 foot.
Sorry to hear that some are having problems with EWSF soil. I am not going to offer any suggestions, for that is best left to others that are my mentors here. Best of luck to everyone growing this year and thanks to all the mentors that I continue to learn from.
Yea your half the the reason i preach about it haha.. When i go back down today ill cruise by his house and see but i know it was dropped and they planted using only water so no nutes. It wasnt grower error or he wouldnt have admitted it was his fault and that he is not a nitrogen expert he is a bug and pathogens expert and gave him thousands of dollars in amendments to make up for it.
surprised to hear people having problems with EWSF, i havent experianced any either. my only concern was that it wasnt the best for young veg starts, as it took a while for them to catch. however after a month the veg starts in EWSF took off like crazy, and have had zero issues with water retention.
its definately not as easy to saturate as black gold for example, but im not having any issues keeping it wet. i use shrubbers and it penetrates the soil evenly. handwatering is a little tougher because the water does like to slide off the edge of the mound. so we use a sprinkler system that covers the whole garden in a mist of rain over the night so it totally soaks them in prior to adding a compost tea.
its definately not as easy to saturate as black gold for example, but im not having any issues keeping it wet. i use shrubbers and it penetrates the soil evenly. handwatering is a little tougher because the water does like to slide off the edge of the mound. so we use a sprinkler system that covers the whole garden in a mist of rain over the night so it totally soaks them in prior to adding a compost tea.
Mendo240,
All blue dream eh? Were those plants root bound in smaller pots before that pic?
All blue dream eh? Were those plants root bound in smaller pots before that pic?
furrywall11
Member
Anyone else having issues with Apex Neverkink commercial hoses? I did a google search and came up with a watchdog site that lists them as very toxic with PVC and lead...also turned up studies on lead inhibiting plant growth. I'm beginning to think that could be the cause of my plant droop since that's the only thing I added (well, also a 2850gl holding tank from a reputable source) and the plants were growing ridiculously well in their ewsf soil for almost six weeks before this.
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Double F
Member
sweet greenhouse!
what is the best way to measure ERGS? i tried finding info online and EC keeps coming up, do i put some soil into RO water and then read the water reading?
sorry for the newb question. i am really trying to improve my soil readings this year. already learning so much about brix that i want to start learning more about my soil.
what is the best way to measure ERGS? i tried finding info online and EC keeps coming up, do i put some soil into RO water and then read the water reading?
sorry for the newb question. i am really trying to improve my soil readings this year. already learning so much about brix that i want to start learning more about my soil.
Im not sure its the best, but certainly easy and I can vouch for it being durable and reliable.
http://www.hannainst.com/usa/prods2.cfm?id=003002&ProdCode=HI 993310
Here some more options(PDF Warning):
What Is Your Substrate Trying to Tell You.
Part III(Methods Used to Measure pH AND EC)
http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/nursery/Landscape problems/Substrate/Measuring pH and CEC.PDF
and a cheaper hanna direct soil pen(amazon link) http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI98331-Direct-Resolution/dp/B0085WV5BI
What Is Your Substrate Trying to Tell You.
Part III(Methods Used to Measure pH AND EC)
http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/nursery/Landscape problems/Substrate/Measuring pH and CEC.PDF
and a cheaper hanna direct soil pen(amazon link) http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI98331-Direct-Resolution/dp/B0085WV5BI
napalisherpa
Member
I'm setting up drip lines on my mounds. I'm planing on using alfalfa for mulch. Is it recommend to set up lines on top, or below mulch, or does it make much of a difference?
Thanks
Thanks
JointOperation
Active member
jesus .. christ.. blue dreams at 20 feet for harvest time lol.. good for you. ass.. lol immm sooo jealous lol
Thats a fantastic start to the Blue Dream.
10lb plants all day long. Very Nice Sir Mendo420!
Yes...you have now been oficially Knighted.
Growers of the Round Table.
Put it under to keep the drip line cool.
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i like to set above the mulch so I can easily inspect my lines, plus I feel the mulch helps spread the water, even if it is just a little
C
Cep
Pros and cons. You're also going to get a longer life out of the lines if the sun isn't hitting it. How much longer depends on how much sun you're getting. Like pono said you won't be able to see whats going on though. Mulch also keeps them clean. I'll be laying the lines on the soil and inspecting the whole system right away. I'm def not mulching with straw this year, pain in the ass to pull the wheat that germinates. Plus it'll only be a month or two before they are shielded from the sun by canna foliage 
Thinking of a living mulch but was wondering if anyone here can chime in as to how that going to change my water use, with something like clover?
Thinking of a living mulch but was wondering if anyone here can chime in as to how that going to change my water use, with something like clover?
Living mulch is the best answer, however I am getting gorilla hair redwood for my mulch. Just picked up a couple yards of it. Mulch is the most important thing outside of nutes/soil, sun and genetics IMO. It helps the micro heard stay healthy, and doesn't create a crust on top of your soil that the water likes to run off.
O by the way, I finally in my new spot!!!!! Got several dozen plants enjoying the nor cal sun ATM. Maybe in a couple months I will have plants big enough to post in this thread. Until then, I got lots of work ahead of me. Good luck on your season everybody.
O by the way, I finally in my new spot!!!!! Got several dozen plants enjoying the nor cal sun ATM. Maybe in a couple months I will have plants big enough to post in this thread. Until then, I got lots of work ahead of me. Good luck on your season everybody.
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