The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

[Backyard Farmer]

Cep

It's more about getting them to turn the 'extra' ions in to protein fast enough that the brix level doesn't go down than an 'ideal level'

PhotoMag does a good job at helping with this process.

Ideally the amount would be determined via Nova analysis ... Soon come.

 

[milkyjoe]

Foliar photomag is the trick. It convrts nitrate in the plant to protein very quickly. Borrow a sap nitrate meter and you can literally see it happen. Combine that with the tainio microbes and you aren't talking needing much at all...very hjgh energy source for Ca. It was tainios favorite N source. I use it up to a pH of 6.8...AS if I were to get higher than that. You can also read graham saits take on splitting up N applications and its effect on yield.

You have to pay attention. No one rate fits all soils/temps/humidities.

edit...doh, did not answer the question. I choose not to use Ca25 at all because of the Cl in it. The 4 major anions (NO3, SO4, P and Cl) antagonize each other. If you jack one up it means another one is not getting into the plant. I look at Cl like I look at Na...yea you gotta have a little but any more than that is just in the way.

Take a look at all the stuff from Nova Crop Control. They are the ones I really follow when I can. What they say is that when nitrate ions in the plant sap exceed 55% of the total N in the sap you have just turned on an infrared sign for aphids to come to dinner. Turns out it is not the total N, but that ratio.

On the other hand if you do not get enough Ca into the cells you are not going to get sap pH high enough and fungal diseases become increasingly more likely. CaNO3 really helps you get Ca into the cell walls...measure sap pH before and after CaNO3, it will raise the pH. So, like all things, it is a balancing act.

I ain't saying it is for anyone else but it is the ticket I have bought this yr...I am fixin to take the ride.

 

[Double F]

I have been taking brix readings on my plants this year, i notice that my seedlings consistently test lower (around 7-9) whereas my clones are up around 13. Is this normal? What is the ideal spectrum to be in right in early veg?

 

[COconnect]

My entry for the beginning of the season pics.
Hash plant. 65 gallon smart pot bagged soil mix.

 

[COconnect]

Sour D, blue dream, headed for 200 gallon smartpots with a Badass mix from the worm farm.

 

[Cep]

Cep

It's more about getting them to turn the 'extra' ions in to protein fast enough that the brix level doesn't go down than an 'ideal level'

I think my experience was mainly during overcast conditions. My applications were too strong, but the same amount might not have been detrimental on a sunny day...

PhotoMag does a good job at helping with this process.

Ideally the amount would be determined via Nova analysis ... Soon come.

Foliar photomag is the trick. It convrts nitrate in the plant to protein very quickly.

I've got photomag and will be using it often

You have to pay attention. No one rate fits all soils/temps/humidities.

I guess I was thinking of rates you were using when things are really kicking. I'll play with a bit this year starting with super dilute amounts

Take a look at all the stuff from Nova Crop Control. They are the ones I really follow when I can. What they say is that when nitrate ions in the plant sap exceed 55% of the total N in the sap you have just turned on an infrared sign for aphids to come to dinner. Turns out it is not the total N, but that ratio.

I called in spider mites, when there had been none prior

On the other hand if you do not get enough Ca into the cells you are not going to get sap pH high enough and fungal diseases become increasingly more likely. CaNO3 really helps you get Ca into the cell walls...measure sap pH before and after CaNO3, it will raise the pH. So, like all things, it is a balancing act.

I ain't saying it is for anyone else but it is the ticket I have bought this yr...I am fixin to take the ride.

Thanks guys for your input

 

[Cartel530]

Anyone else had trouble with the EWSF soil? Buddy of mine ordered 100 yards and it was too hot and killed off 80+ teens. So my homie calls down there flippin out after spending 20k+ on soil and the owner drives out to check it out and tells him sorry man i am not a nitrogen expert i am a bug expert

They took a digital thermometer and it read over 185F LOL!

I feel bad because i preached the soil pretty hard to him and he has read about the soil on a few different sites and at 198/ yard you would think the soil should be good enough to plant as i see PROP up there is having no trouble at all. After dude drove out and saw it was his fault he gave him a bunch of amendments to "make up for it" LOL?

Anyone else notice the soil was too hot?

 

[grow nerd]

Wondering if the popularity on some soils that were really good in the past year(s) has grown faster than expected by the soil farms (likely through word-of-mouth), forcing some to cut corners by using fresher materials and not allowing it to cook for the proper amount of time to meet unexpected demand?

This could explain some earlier purchases/customers getting good soil, while the later ones are getting fresh hot soil?

 

[Pangea]

Anyone using the LAQUATWIN meters to test for specific tissue conductivity?

Bump, seems like good info to be gleaned from these, anyone have experience, first or second hand?

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Buddy of mine ordered 100 yards and it was too hot and killed off 80+ teens.

They took a digital thermometer and it read over 185F LOL!

Anyone else notice the soil was too hot?

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

the week or two just after transplant how does one walk the fine line between overwatering and fried plants? Hard to tell how much/often to water these big pots especially when the plants are small and the days are HOT and dry. We are handwatering with a hose and a wand.

I would wet the entire pot at t/p.
After some sunny days, when the top looks dry, I would stick my hand into the soil about 12" away from the main stalk, and check for moisture.
If the soil feels dry, then water them. If theres moisture about 8" deep, then wait a day or 2.

 

[JointOperation]

are we talking too hot in HEAT.. or too hot as in nutes ? lol. 185 degrees is very hot.. but honestly.. you could of sprayed the soil down with some cold water to get the temps down..

but wat was causing the heat to begin with?

 

[Luther Burbank]

Sounds like thermophilic bacteria to me. Soil was too hot nutritionally and started conposting.

Found one seed on the untested CJxWiFi plant I cut. Acceptable? I'm worried now because they're my big girls this year. Should not have run an untested cross as my main.

 

[ponobegone]

not allowing it to cook for the proper amount of time to meet unexpected demand?

but soil doesn't need to cook....lol

 

[grow nerd]

but soil doesn't need to cook....lol

Then what is everyone talking about when letting a mix of fresh manure, mushroom compost, etc sit for a period of time to prevent it from being too hot for plants?

 

[grow nerd]

are we talking too hot in HEAT.. or too hot as in nutes ? lol. 185 degrees is very hot.. but honestly.. you could of sprayed the soil down with some cold water to get the temps down..

but wat was causing the heat to begin with?

As I understand it, bacteria.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Pono is jabbing at me because I am of the belief that if you correctly balance your soil that you can plant directly in to it and will not have a problem , in fact your plants will be bigger.

Cartel530

Sorry to hear about your friends bad luck with the soil from the Worm Soil Factory. Did they get the NorCal Blend? Are they sure it's a soil problem? If so, did they ask Dave to do anything different to it and if they did what? Did your friends do anything 'extra' to the blend once they received it ?

Did your friend submit a soil test to a local lab like FGL or UC Davis?

I have only heard of one other person not having a good run with the Nor Cal Blend soil...Personally have had GREAT experiences with Dave Royal and the Worm Soil Factory. There are HUNDREDS of yards of his compost on my property between our tree orchard , vegetable garden , and ganja and everything absolutely flourishes.

Another thing I have to ask, did your friends use anything like Max Sea or Grow More on their plants?

Sorry to get Sherlock Holmes about it , but I take it personally when some one in this thread says they didn't have a good Experience with the Royals product because I have recommended it for the past few seasons and my personal experience has be nothing but success with it...I'd like to do what I can to help your friend have a successful season.

We also need to keep in mind that just going down to the Worm Farm and spending $198/yd isn't going to guarantee a solid season. Once it gets delivered and the garden gets built , the soil needs to be treated right ... and conventional marijuana growing techniques will destroy the biology in the soil...The key to making available the atom bomb of amendments added to the NorCal Blend...

 

[COconnect]

but soil doesn't need to cook....lol

Haha, vindication. I don't always talk out of my ass.

If you can make a mix that dosent need a cook youre a soil master. The cook is like a safety net in theory.

[Edit] IN MY OPINION!!

 

[mendo420]

June 1
7 foot Blue Dream starts.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Just wondering because if the soil was 185F you'd notice it on delivery from the soil trucks STEAMING. I Just preferred to not point out the obvious.

Soil master COConnect? That'd be bill albrecht