What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

Status
Not open for further replies.

organic P

Active member
Great Gardens Everyone!

5 yard Blue Dream's
 

Attachments

  • 167.jpg
    167.jpg
    104.1 KB · Views: 22
C

Carlos Danger

This rainy weather is killing me. My big girl has been dropping her lower interior leaves but today she's showing some spots and yellowing on higher fan leaves. I can't tell if things are yellowing because the battery is running dry or if it's lockout from four days of rain. I'm letting things dry out today, but this is getting me a little fearful.

Here's a question - plants take mobile nutrients from old growth to fuel new growth if there's a deficiency, but when a plant is flowering will the plant continue to eat the most bottom growth when moving mobile nutrients?
 

ponocrookedbrah

Member
Veteran
carlos that is the leaf spot blight if those spots are blackish brownish. if you are in the area I think you are its horrible around there, I used to lose crops to it and my pops is dealing with it now. if you look at the surrounding trees and vegetation, you start to notice it everywhere. liquid copper was my best weapon but its too late in the game for that. check out the leaf spot thread in the sticky section of growing outdoors its a good one
 
C

Carlos Danger

Pono, I've got that huge book of hemp pests and diseases. The closest to what I'm seeing, would be Yellow Leaf Spot. "McPartland, Clarke, and Watson" write:

"This disease is ubiquitous. It frequents fibre crops, but also arises on drug plants (Mushtaque et al. 1973), and Cannabis ruderalis. Since leaf photosynthesis is the engine driving crop yields, yellow leaf spot can reduce yields of fibre, flower, and seeds.

"Small lesions first appear on lower leaves in early June. Lesion colour is variously described as white, yellow, ochre, or grey-brown".

After that it stops being similar, in that none of the spots have developed fruiting bodies. The authors suggest for controlling yellow leaf spot: "sanitation and careful pruning are the cornerstone of control. Also use deep ploughing, genetic resistance, crop rotation, especially avoid overhead irrigation, avoid excess N and add P and K." They mention not saving seeds from infected plants but say there is no evidence to back this claim, just "hedging your bets"

Edit: I went through the choose your own adventure chart in the back and "bacterial blight" or "nutrient deficiencies" is where it's leading me, which with the weather sounds about right.
 
S

stickyicky009

Are you saying that first picture is the first week of flower? I would consider that more like 3 weeks. I base that off how indoor plants look when I change the light schedule. It takes about 2-3 weeks for budlets to form.

she fliped earlier than the rest , you are totally right , she is technically in week 3-4 :woohoo:

gladly september is in the air , and everyday is a day closer... ooooh so exiting :biggrin:
 
C

Carlos Danger

Thanks pono. I noticed some powdery residue on a couple leaves as well. Humidity here is usually in the 80s. It's not looking anywhere past stage one in that thread so I'm hoping this might still be lockout and mildew from all the rain.

Edit: someone suggested milk for a spray, I have a culture of lactobacillus. I'm gonna spray with that and try to crowd out the competition.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
This rainy weather is killing me. My big girl has been dropping her lower interior leaves but today she's showing some spots and yellowing on higher fan leaves. I can't tell if things are yellowing because the battery is running dry or if it's lockout from four days of rain. I'm letting things dry out today, but this is getting me a little fearful.

Here's a question - plants take mobile nutrients from old growth to fuel new growth if there's a deficiency, but when a plant is flowering will the plant continue to eat the most bottom growth when moving mobile nutrients?

Absolutely. And if you are having it happen you can be sure you are short on K, the most mobile of all nutes. I would recommend soil drenches of KSil/fulvic acid. The fulvic complexes the K.

Do you have a sap pH meter? It is almost a guarantee you are under 6.4 if this is happening. In flower K is what is dragging the sugar to where it is needed...including the soil. I simply watch sap pH and feed KSil whenever it drops below 6.4...prevents all of that nonsense and keeps the plant mold free. Ca in veg and K in flower.

But you don't want to overdo it as K will block Mg and P uptake by the plant.

Another reason meters are so important.

edit...I use 0.7 grams of KSil per gallon of water. And a couple fistfuls of fulvic in 115 gallons.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
some pics that were taken before the fire on aug14th. on one hand im kind of dissapointed in the growth rates ive seen this year, a late start (5/28 - 6/1) combined with early flower they just didnt stretch as much as we wanted out here, we are only expecting 50-60% of our desired yield with most plants in the 2-3lb range. but some folks have lost their gardens to the fires and many others in our area are losing to the broad mites so i know that we are still fortunate to have some green this year....good luck to all out there having subpar 2013. i really cant wait until this damn season is over so i can start fresh for 2014....
chem4
picture.php


blue dream
picture.php


picture.php


here are the runty blue dreams that went in early june as 1ft tall beercups
picture.php



picture.php
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
just to give an idea of the effects of early flower triggering did to a few plants at my friends garden.

this pic was taken june 28. strain is 4sd, in norcal blend soil with zero chem ferts..wondering if he should have added more to feed them, he followed dave royals plan and focused on soil microbiology building and only fed compost teas....kind of disheartening when guys down the road are just boosting their fox farms with GH and nitroboost and have plants 2x the size.
picture.php


this is what they looked like on august 22nd, not alot of stretch as all. we were expecting these to stretch to the PVC
picture.php


everything stayed pretty short in this garden...it has awesome sun exposure, at around 1500ft elevation. helping him search for answers..
picture.php

picture.php
 
I swear I see some russet mite damage in a few of those photo's . Alert to all growers !!!! I was victim of a horrific russet mite infestation this season. With the russet it starts with what looks like a deficiency and after weeks of trying to fix with more nutes your symptoms will be spreading to other plants as well . Trust me this UNSEEN PEST will take down the best of us growers and when you finally figure out what the problem is it will be to late .If you have plants with any edge rolling of the leaves. or discoloration of a normal color green {weird yellowing ,bronzing as it gets worse} .Inner leaf death to a large degree. , reddish tint on weird looking buds, what appears to be dust on the top of the leafs, a little twist to the leafs with kind of pock marks on them. it starts low and moves up rapidly !!

YOU CAN NOT SEE THESE WITHOUT A MICROSCOPE OF SOMEKIND !!!! If you use a loupe you will never even see them !!

If you suspect an infestation, try this, water heavily at night with a green headlamp. Pay attention as the water builds up and puddles on the soil you will see them floating on the water . The green light makes them appear as a white spec floating on the surface. {there will be a film of white specs if mites are present .}

I feel if you have any slow to flower or "sluggish" plants do a close inspection asap !!!
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
can you post up any pics of the plants that were infected? usually with russet you can see them on the base of the leaf. is it BOTH broad mites and hemp russet attacking this year? i had broad mites at one point indoors and the leaf damage is very noticeable, they will curl over like taco shells and resemble an N overdose, the new leaf growth will be very mottled and inconsistant and growth will just stop.

i do have one blue dream that has shown some yellowing on the top leaves i better go check her out...scary stuff this season.

Oldschool are you out in the 530? all the hydro shops out here are talking about broad/russet mites, its the talk of the town almost...know a bunch of guys who lost some plants already. i havent heard anything about it coming out of the 707 though...
 

furrywall11

Member
Holeee crap..Broad mites are scary.. Everyone in my hood is talking about them... I haven't seen it personally but supposedly a lot of people have lost whole gardens or had their yields dropped %50 by broad mites...

Yes4Prop -- those smallish (but very healthy looking) BD's look like what happened to me and almost everyone in my neighborhood last year... We put our blue dream plants out a couple feet tall on June 15th....a cold snap came in... night temps dropped really low.. and an early flower was triggered around June 20th... plants bopped around in a confused state for a couple weeks and then started sluggishly vegging again. It can also happen if you put a root bound plant into the ground in early June. They might not be very tall but I bet they'll be chunky... best of luck
 

anonymousgrow

Active member
It's not the mites here, it's the isolated thunderstorms. We were inside of one of the dark red spots on the weather radar for about 45 min today at dusk. Lost one giant plant completely and had quite a few broken branches. Did some staking and tying up and will have a lot of work in the morning. I would guess we lost at most 20-25% realistically around 10%. Total fuckin bummer. Need better support next year.
 

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
just to give an idea of the effects of early flower triggering did to a few plants at my friends garden.

this pic was taken june 28. strain is 4sd, in norcal blend soil with zero chem ferts..wondering if he should have added more to feed them, he followed dave royals plan and focused on soil microbiology building and only fed compost teas....kind of disheartening when guys down the road are just boosting their fox farms with GH and nitroboost and have plants 2x the size.


this is what they looked like on august 22nd, not alot of stretch as all. we were expecting these to stretch to the PVC

everything stayed pretty short in this garden...it has awesome sun exposure, at around 1500ft elevation. helping him search for answers..

What size are the pots?

I made a mix following what the ROLS crew recommends and I have only fed water with great results so far.

I have decent sun exposure considering the climate, a similar elevation but probably 500+ miles north.

Just got some hoops up today and happened to take some pics.
picture.php


I just made low wide beds, took a bit more work than smart pots but cost alot less. Im praying that great weather comes this way and stays around well into fall.. as you can tell in the pics, its pretty grey around these parts.

I have some that flowered early as well, only one strain though.
Shes already frosty!

BlueTooth
picture.php
 
V

Veg N Out

Y4P215, don't let it get you down. More often than not when you have great soil and sun and the plants aren't taking off, there is something in the water blocking the productivity of the soil.

Water is the key to making all the chemistry in the soil happen. If the water chemistry is a little bit off, it can have a big impact on your end result.

Before anything, always test the water. You will save lots of money by doing so.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top