T
theJointedOne
Nice nomaad!
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outdoordreams
Active member
TOM? Have you ever tried the Timewarp cutting? or any crosses outdoors?
What is the tallest plant you have grown?
Do you try to grow them taller, or bushier?
Have you ever tried hydroponic outdoor?
What is the tallest plant you have grown?
Do you try to grow them taller, or bushier?
Have you ever tried hydroponic outdoor?
ODDreams: in my own experience, tall is not nearly as important as wide... though tall and wide is a good combination. I saw one ten pounder that was a 3-dimensione scrog... there was 2 levels of field fencing (a 4' and a 6') raised up on t-posts (so that you can get under them) that have been pounded in at an angle about 1 foot outside of the 200 gallon smartpot... on top was another 4x4" metal screen. the top screen wound up about 5 feet wider than the pot itself... most of the yield was up there in this enormous sea of colas.
Joeski
Active member
sounds amazing mate im a little lost on ur description tho
yeah... I know... hard to really visualize. to you know what those standard tomato cages look like? They are like upside-down cones... this is kind of the same thing, but gigantic.
here is a pic of a standard tomato cage.
imagine a 4.5' wide, 18" tall smart pot, above the ground. one foot outside the pot, at the four points of a compass are the 12 foot t-posts. those tposts are not banged in straight, but rather at a slight angle so that they are wider at the top than they are where they are banged into the ground. Around these four posts is affixed 10 foot high field fencing. Its raised off the ground so that you can get under it to tend to the insides of the plants. on the very top is another steel screen.
I dunno if that description is any better than the first one.... I wish I had a photo of it. Best
here is a pic of a standard tomato cage.
imagine a 4.5' wide, 18" tall smart pot, above the ground. one foot outside the pot, at the four points of a compass are the 12 foot t-posts. those tposts are not banged in straight, but rather at a slight angle so that they are wider at the top than they are where they are banged into the ground. Around these four posts is affixed 10 foot high field fencing. Its raised off the ground so that you can get under it to tend to the insides of the plants. on the very top is another steel screen.
I dunno if that description is any better than the first one.... I wish I had a photo of it. Best
Hello all
Let’s just jump right in...
Lighting. I run lights in my garden till the second or third week of June. I went to this site: http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/docs/RS_OneYear.html and figured the day length for the solstice in my area. Once I had this number I matched the current day to that length and put the extra lighting on the morning side. If I remember, the lights came on around 4:30 am and went off once the sun was up. There are less people awake in the early hours versus the night so I felt this was a little more low key.
Here’s a shot from June 7th showing the spacing of the bulbs. I use 40w cf’s roughly 15-20’ apart. I’ve not seemed to need any more light than that. Installation is smooth using twist lock light sockets on two strands of wire. I plug it into a gfi plug and forget about it. Personally, I feel lights are more important with clones versus seeds, but this is only from observation. I've also witnessed plants pulled out of serious flowering with the use of concentrated lighting. Perhaps double the density you see here and left on for, I believe, 18 hours.
Training. In the above picture you can still see the 2’ diameter rings we use for initial training. This stage gives us an even plant and is useful for setting up what will be main support branches. This next shot shows when we usually put the next ring on. Timing in all of these steps is critical. Do it too late and you’re struggling to get the plant in the right position being able to train the tops where you want them. I pointed out some of the initial training that was done when the ring went on.
Here’s the same plant 17 days later.
The astute observer will notice there is now a “cap” on the concrete wire support ring. These are cut 5’x5’ and fit nicely over the rings. Again, timing is key. Placing the caps on when the plants are at the stage below ensures you can put the tops in a nice even canopy.
As the plants continue to fill the space, we come in with 5/8” rebar cut to 10’ lengths and more hortinova. In these shots we did not use t-posts at the bases of the rebar, but did this last year for more support.
10 days later. It would have been much harder to put the netting on at this point. When the growing tips get 12-18" beyond the existing netting, we come in with another layer lightly draped over the outside of the plant and allow it to grow through that layer. The timing on this additional netting is dictated by plant growth.
Here’s a shot from this year’s garden probably the day we put on the netting as the bottoms still are not fastened to the rings. Also notice how the netting is only loosely around the plants. We're looking to have the plants grow through the netting, not be forced through.
For me, one of the keys to big plants (in this case higher yield, not just super tall or wide) is an even canopy with lots and lots of budsites. We let our plants veg to three or four feet and then take a large set of tip cuttings off the plant. 6-8” from all the main leader shoots. This creates a much more ball shaped plant. This first picture is a plant with a more traditional, small topping approach. You can see how there are fewer large growing tips than the next picture. That plant had a larger set of cuttings taken from the tips. It’s my feeling that you are changing the balance of growth auxins by removing that material.
We also prune up the insides to remove spindly growth and vegetation not getting good light. The improvement in ventilation inside the plant as well as the majority of growth going to quality budsites is well worth the effort...and it does take maintenance!
Well, that’s all for now. Perhaps we should go into soil prep next? I’m mixing mine now for this summer...
Happy gardening - Butte
Let’s just jump right in...
Lighting. I run lights in my garden till the second or third week of June. I went to this site: http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/docs/RS_OneYear.html and figured the day length for the solstice in my area. Once I had this number I matched the current day to that length and put the extra lighting on the morning side. If I remember, the lights came on around 4:30 am and went off once the sun was up. There are less people awake in the early hours versus the night so I felt this was a little more low key.
Here’s a shot from June 7th showing the spacing of the bulbs. I use 40w cf’s roughly 15-20’ apart. I’ve not seemed to need any more light than that. Installation is smooth using twist lock light sockets on two strands of wire. I plug it into a gfi plug and forget about it. Personally, I feel lights are more important with clones versus seeds, but this is only from observation. I've also witnessed plants pulled out of serious flowering with the use of concentrated lighting. Perhaps double the density you see here and left on for, I believe, 18 hours.
Training. In the above picture you can still see the 2’ diameter rings we use for initial training. This stage gives us an even plant and is useful for setting up what will be main support branches. This next shot shows when we usually put the next ring on. Timing in all of these steps is critical. Do it too late and you’re struggling to get the plant in the right position being able to train the tops where you want them. I pointed out some of the initial training that was done when the ring went on.
Here’s the same plant 17 days later.
The astute observer will notice there is now a “cap” on the concrete wire support ring. These are cut 5’x5’ and fit nicely over the rings. Again, timing is key. Placing the caps on when the plants are at the stage below ensures you can put the tops in a nice even canopy.
As the plants continue to fill the space, we come in with 5/8” rebar cut to 10’ lengths and more hortinova. In these shots we did not use t-posts at the bases of the rebar, but did this last year for more support.
10 days later. It would have been much harder to put the netting on at this point. When the growing tips get 12-18" beyond the existing netting, we come in with another layer lightly draped over the outside of the plant and allow it to grow through that layer. The timing on this additional netting is dictated by plant growth.
Here’s a shot from this year’s garden probably the day we put on the netting as the bottoms still are not fastened to the rings. Also notice how the netting is only loosely around the plants. We're looking to have the plants grow through the netting, not be forced through.
For me, one of the keys to big plants (in this case higher yield, not just super tall or wide) is an even canopy with lots and lots of budsites. We let our plants veg to three or four feet and then take a large set of tip cuttings off the plant. 6-8” from all the main leader shoots. This creates a much more ball shaped plant. This first picture is a plant with a more traditional, small topping approach. You can see how there are fewer large growing tips than the next picture. That plant had a larger set of cuttings taken from the tips. It’s my feeling that you are changing the balance of growth auxins by removing that material.
We also prune up the insides to remove spindly growth and vegetation not getting good light. The improvement in ventilation inside the plant as well as the majority of growth going to quality budsites is well worth the effort...and it does take maintenance!
Well, that’s all for now. Perhaps we should go into soil prep next? I’m mixing mine now for this summer...
Happy gardening - Butte
OMG !!!!!!!!!! that is fucking sik Butte seriously sik.... Did you say what the bud was ? Green with envy bro lol peace out Headband707
outdoordreams
Active member
BUTTE, beautiful and inspiring dude.......??s for you......
When do you prune up the insides? Before or after the netting?
Do you do this again right before flowering begins?
When do you prune up the insides? Before or after the netting?
Do you do this again right before flowering begins?
W
WatsonT
Butte what can I say amazing grow you have.
Soil Recipe's? and whats the benefit of doing raised beds, are you using smart pots or creating your own?
Soil Recipe's? and whats the benefit of doing raised beds, are you using smart pots or creating your own?
chemsteady
Member
hmmm...
hmmm...
so while i was attempting to modify toms soil (quantitatively speaking, as im only trying to make 100 gallons worth to put in containers) and locate certain product sizes etc., i came across this article on gypsum.
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Gypsum.pdf
whadda you all think? tom? anyone? just curious...
~c
hmmm...
so while i was attempting to modify toms soil (quantitatively speaking, as im only trying to make 100 gallons worth to put in containers) and locate certain product sizes etc., i came across this article on gypsum.
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Gypsum.pdf
whadda you all think? tom? anyone? just curious...
~c
It sounds like I need gypsum in my back yard. I have clay. As for weed, I use Oyster shells, They have plenty of calcium, and most likely not calcium sulfate.
tom, you must be the happiest person i know of.
beautiful land, beautiful plants, beautiful view!
what more could a simple man ask for?
chemsteady
Member
yeah but...
yeah but...
i think thats what tom was going for in his mix...like he said, its pretty heavy in calcium for a reason. id sure like to send those pics of toms phat ass garden over to the lady who did that write up...ask her to explain and or theorize why the hell those monsters tom grows dont seem to mind the gypsum...hehehe
perhaps it has to do with the fact hes growing in containers, and shes talking about amending a soil plot. who knows, im not that smart...yet.
anyone else care to chime in?
~c
ps. did we get an answer as to which chicken shit to use? ahhhh tom, help us please
yeah but...
i think thats what tom was going for in his mix...like he said, its pretty heavy in calcium for a reason. id sure like to send those pics of toms phat ass garden over to the lady who did that write up...ask her to explain and or theorize why the hell those monsters tom grows dont seem to mind the gypsum...hehehe
perhaps it has to do with the fact hes growing in containers, and shes talking about amending a soil plot. who knows, im not that smart...yet.
anyone else care to chime in?
~c
ps. did we get an answer as to which chicken shit to use? ahhhh tom, help us please
The lady who wrote the gypsum article is a big headed big mouth B, I caught that her kids were used to her sarcastic animated tones, and knew what was up. How would you like to be married to her. I dont listen to that type of person. I put up a wall in the first paragraph.
chemsteady
Member
the dr is in...
the dr is in...
cold blooded dr p. but i guess you calls em like you sees em!
btw, i looked into your limits and posted it up on my patio grow thread...
peace brothas' (and sistahs!)
~c
the dr is in...
cold blooded dr p.
but i guess you calls em like you sees em!btw, i looked into your limits and posted it up on my patio grow thread...
peace brothas' (and sistahs!)
~c
hey all, I'm gonna do some outdoor smartpots this year and was wondering if it might be better to have a bigger smartpot thats elevated off the ground for 360 degree air around the rootball, or have it in contact with the ground for capillary action and more rooting goin down below?
obviously having it in contact with the ground will allow the tap to be cooler and have access to water, but with constant tending and ability to keep the pots watered, would an elevated pot be better or worse? I think it could be better due to a more targeted to the roots style of watering, rather then just drenching the shit out of everything with sparse 'traveling' type roots. But worse in the regard of having less support to keep it anchored, plus the access to water/cooler temps.
edit: gonna use very large pots if needed (for elevated), can/will scale whether it be 65 gallon or 300 gallons.
also, I hear 18" is a good depth, if this is the case, why not just do the 300 gallon SP's elevated for some massive air root pruning producing a huge ball in the container. if 18" is good, why do you need the depth of the 'in contact with ground' smartpots?
obviously having it in contact with the ground will allow the tap to be cooler and have access to water, but with constant tending and ability to keep the pots watered, would an elevated pot be better or worse? I think it could be better due to a more targeted to the roots style of watering, rather then just drenching the shit out of everything with sparse 'traveling' type roots. But worse in the regard of having less support to keep it anchored, plus the access to water/cooler temps.
edit: gonna use very large pots if needed (for elevated), can/will scale whether it be 65 gallon or 300 gallons.
also, I hear 18" is a good depth, if this is the case, why not just do the 300 gallon SP's elevated for some massive air root pruning producing a huge ball in the container. if 18" is good, why do you need the depth of the 'in contact with ground' smartpots?
Wow butte
Thank you fore showing us this pruning net tech it really cleared some stuff up that i have been thinking about.
A Q, The trend off making super big plants does it have anything to do with the legal situation in california where you legal only can have a fixed number off plants
Much love and respekt
Thank you fore showing us this pruning net tech it really cleared some stuff up that i have been thinking about.
A Q, The trend off making super big plants does it have anything to do with the legal situation in california where you legal only can have a fixed number off plants
Much love and respekt
GroBoy2000
Member
Wow, nice pictures.
How are you guys mixing your soil to ensure even coverage of additives and such? I'm feeling tired after adding a few things to a 50gal mix. Hard to imagine 200gal again and again getting even coverage. Is it a cement mixer or is there another good option?
How are you guys mixing your soil to ensure even coverage of additives and such? I'm feeling tired after adding a few things to a 50gal mix. Hard to imagine 200gal again and again getting even coverage. Is it a cement mixer or is there another good option?
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