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gates3rd
Member
thanks for the input simone. I have an Elicent 4" 152 cfm inline fan but I dont think that will be enough for the filter and to cool the 400 watt cool tube. I figure the vortex will be more then enough so I can turn it down a little with a speed controller and if i have to buy new filter so be it. As for the best cheapest what I want is the best material for the job with out going overboard. What you think?
Again thanks for input
Again thanks for input
Tnx man,Nice cab you have there , good air management
Cheers
I just took a fresh picture of the real deal
Greetings,
Garuda.
2x4's
2 sheets of T1-11
1/4" sheet of birch
shower pan liner
aluminum roofing flashing
framed and covered with t1-11 inside out
added shower pan liner and sheeted inside in 1/4"
then added aluminum flashing "lapped" to cover the wood sealed corners with foil tape...door is made of 3/4 plywood.
you could prolly do it cheaper with different materials but i think it would be about 150 to 200 for the basic shit to build it....its all pretty much stuff i had layin around from old jobs...works well for me and you dont have to worry about water getting to any of the wood
1. You may be able to get away with the Elicent, but I think you're heading in the right direction with a higher-powered fan on a controller. I don't know if stealth is an issue, but a non-Variac speed controller will likely cause the fan to make more noise. The Vortex is an excellent fan. I run 3x6" and 1x8", myself.
2. I'd reconsider using a cooltube. You see, its dispersion characteristics are poor, even when coupled to an external reflector panel. In a small box it can be OK due to the close proximity of reflective surfaces. In a cab the size of yours, a traditional, air-cooled reflector like a SS CoolSun would go a long way toward maximizing the light available to the plants.
3. Material-wise, you essentially need to make a decision. Do you want to use the best possible material and treat the walls, or do you mind using a less superior material with its own reflective surface? If it's the latter, melamine is great. You can put the box together and it's good to go. The walls are flat white and can be cleaned/maintained with virtually anything. If you decide on the former, I'd use marine-grade plywood and cover the walls with (6mil) panda plastic.
Simon
Hey Simon
Your right about the fan noise but I think I can live with it. I'm going to try the Elicent and then go bigger if i have to. As far as the cool tube I thought one of the main advantages was being able to get that light close to the plants giving me more space. I want the temps with in 5 degrees of house temp. with out a cool tube you have to keep the light a foot away from the plants right? I was going to go with 250 watt but 400 is about same price I was hoping the extra watts would make up for the poor reflector.
I think I'll go with the marine grade if I can get at home dep. How thick?
Thanks for all the help
sorry so many questions
Your right about the fan noise but I think I can live with it. I'm going to try the Elicent and then go bigger if i have to. As far as the cool tube I thought one of the main advantages was being able to get that light close to the plants giving me more space. I want the temps with in 5 degrees of house temp. with out a cool tube you have to keep the light a foot away from the plants right? I was going to go with 250 watt but 400 is about same price I was hoping the extra watts would make up for the poor reflector.
I think I'll go with the marine grade if I can get at home dep. How thick?
Thanks for all the help
sorry so many questions
To give you an idea what's possible with a simple and effective config, I have 2 boxes (and a big room). The boxes are identical. Each has a 600HPS, a Vortex600, and a Can66. The floor space is slightly smaller than what you have planned. Each box runs 1-2F above ambient, individually, or ~5F above ambient with both operating in a small room.
If you're staring this to grow as much bud as you can, do yourself a favor a go big in every way. A 400HPS is the smallest light I'd consider. If it were me, the box would be ~6' tall with a 600HPS inside. A cooltube is fine in theory, but you simply won't pull as much quality bud, as you will with a good reflector from a space that size. FWIW, I can run the 600s as close as 6" above the canopy in the boxes; there just isn't any need. A 400, however, I run almost on top of the canopy. Did I answer your question?
3/4" if you can stand the weight.
..anytime.
Simon
In terms of cooling efficiency, there isn't a huge practical difference between a good air-cooled reflector and a cooltube with a 400. Much will depend on the configuration, itself. If you keep it simple, say, air --->reflector ---->fan ---->filter or any logical permutation of the constraints, you'll be fine.
It's doable with a 400, as long as you don't expect huge, rock-hard colas. A lot will depend on the strain and the training, if any. FWIW, a 600 would let you double your goal.
Simon
Thanks for all the info simone I guess I'm going to have to at least look at some other reflector options. I have a 220 watt pll grow going now and its keeping me busy while I take the time and plan this out right.
When I'm harvesting in about 3 weeks I going to try your perfect cure. I already have my Caliber III hygrometer cant wait to see if it works. I really value your opinion so thanks again for info.
When I'm harvesting in about 3 weeks I going to try your perfect cure. I already have my Caliber III hygrometer cant wait to see if it works. I really value your opinion so thanks again for info.
Here is a picture of the control room of my cabinet.
Top Left is my srcubber and the gage that reads the static pressure across the fan, This lets me know how hard my fan is working and if my cabinet is working under a negative pressure or not.
Top right is my water reservoir with a sight glass that tells me the water level in the reservoir.
Inside the cabinet The top left gage is the read out display for the exhaust sensor (its a indoor outdoor thermometer with a remote outdoor sensor) and I have the sensor placed in the air space below the carbon bed.
The gage right below the exhaust gage is for the air intake sensor which I place in the intake plenum.
With those two gages I get the temperature difference between the incoming air and exhaust air. (more on this later)
Moving right the next device is the speed controller for the fan.
The next device id the light timer.
The next device with the yellow plug is the Kill A Watt device. I have my whole cabinet running through this device. The Kill A Watt give me the total watts, amp, voltage I'm using. The lenght of time in hours I have been running the cabinet for that grow and the total cost of electricity for the grow.
Now by using the temperature difference between the incoming air and exhaust air and the total watt I can calculate the fans CFM.
CFM = total watts * 3.16 / (exhaust temp. - incoming air temp.)
Total watts = 566
exhaust temp. = 97
incoming air temp. = 72
CFM = 566 * 3.16 / (97-72)
CFM = 566 * 3.16 / 25
CFM = 1789 / 25
CFM = 72
So my cabinet is running with 72 CFM at 0.90 in of water (static Pressure) and Keeping the inside of the cabinet at 10 degrees above room temp.
God Damn that's design's sexy!
M
m00nchild
So, I thought I'd post a few pictures of the SLH buds on day 49 of flowering:
Yes, there is a lot of empty space in that scrog, but this was the freebie seed that I just wanted to hurry and flower.
Yes, there is a lot of empty space in that scrog, but this was the freebie seed that I just wanted to hurry and flower.
M
m00nchild
I performed my daily check on the cabinet this morning, and as it turns out, all 6 of my Hashberry clones are rooting!! The reason this is exciting to me, is for the first time ever I am using regular old jiffy pellets, and those little jiffy seed-starting mini-greenhouses. This has been the easiest, most hassle-free cloning I have ever experienced! So now that I know this method works, I will be taking cuttings of my Satori mom tonight. Woohoo!
I think I will go ahead and throw all 6 HB clones into a single pot and put them in flowering in the next couple of days. Without letting them really veg. Anyone grown Hashberry with little-to-no veg time before?
I think I will go ahead and throw all 6 HB clones into a single pot and put them in flowering in the next couple of days. Without letting them really veg. Anyone grown Hashberry with little-to-no veg time before?
M
m00nchild
Here's a few shots of the Hashberry mom, before I start taking more cuttings:
barth
Active member
So, I thought I'd post a few pictures of the SLH buds on day 49 of flowering:
Yes, there is a lot of empty space in that scrog, but this was the freebie seed that I just wanted to hurry and flower.
I cant believe all the differences i have seen with the SLH grows. I found that mine had very little stretch others say it stretches like a SSH.
It is GREAT smoke. Everyone that has seen it loves it. My brother swore it was the best smoke that he has ever seen.
I havent used a dome for years. I just put the clones in some coco now and just wait for them to root. They seem to do really good that way.
M
m00nchild
I took a few new pics this morning. The SLH is on day 55 of flowering. You can also see that I have planted 6 rooted Hashberry clones in one pot, and placed it under the HPS. Hopefully those will give me a nice little mini-SOG. Also, I have included pictures of the Hashberry mom and the bent-over Satori mom. She's a tall one, so she will probably be in bondage throughout her entire life. Here are the pics:
(It's okay... you can criticize. I know the plants are less than perfect, but I'm dealing with heat at the moment...)
(It's okay... you can criticize. I know the plants are less than perfect, but I'm dealing with heat at the moment...)
M
m00nchild
I am really digging those vertical pll setups these days!
