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tjmccoy

Well-known member
Veteran
Would you say this holds true for all of the strains you've grown from Ace?
Any one over another?

To me FFOF and Happy Frog acts like its C:N ratio is off, with all its wood bits in there acts like too high carbon ratio creating some weird nutrient lock outs. Would love to see a few soil test on it looking at C:N
 

EnjoyingLife

Well-known member
To me FFOF and Happy Frog acts like its C:N ratio is off, with all its wood bits in there acts like too high carbon ratio creating some weird nutrient lock outs. Would love to see a few soil test on it looking at C:N
I've always wondered if the amount of wood in the bags from various companies is anything like the amount in forest soil.
What's the ideal carbon to nitrogen ratio for this plant?
 

tjmccoy

Well-known member
Veteran
I've always wondered if the amount of wood in the bags from various companies is anything like the amount in forest soil.
What's the ideal carbon to nitrogen ratio for this plant?

My understanding is the ideal C:N for optimal plant growth is 24:1 but there’s a range maybe up to 30:1 or more. I know from farming if you till in wood chips or heavy crop residue nothing will grow right for years! Just for reference as crop residue Alfafa is 24:1, Wheat Straw 80:1, wood chips 300:1, bark 500:1 something like that. There sure is a lot of wood and bark in ffof and happy frog. Also when C:N is off other nutrients are also locked out. They say all the biology and most available nutrients are consumed by biology trying to break it down leaving little available for the plants.
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
My understanding is the ideal C:N for optimal plant growth is 24:1 but there’s a range maybe up to 30:1 or more. I know from farming if you till in wood chips or heavy crop residue nothing will grow right for years! Just for reference as crop residue Alfafa is 24:1, Wheat Straw 80:1, wood chips 300:1, bark 500:1 something like that. There sure is a lot of wood and bark in ffof and happy frog. Also when C:N is off other nutrients are also locked out. They say all the biology and most available nutrients are consumed by biology trying to break it down leaving little available for the plants.
There’s definitely some weird issues with Ocean Forest for sure. I no longer use it because I’ve had some bags extremely hot, others way weak, and one bag that must have been 95% large wood chips. I also think it’s ratios are way off.

Standard happy frog through I’ve never had issues with aside from it being a light mix and needing amendments. I’ve never had a bag with a ton of wood chips in it like the ocean forest is.
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
10 of 10 germinated in less than 14 hours. Not just little tail tips, full blown 1/2in+ long tap roots. Like always I can count on ACE gear to sprout. I wish other breeders had such high success rates.
8 of 10 were above soil surface within a day of being stuck in the dirt.

I’m very much looking forward to seeing how these do, and for the ass kicking education I know they’re going to give me with growing them under LED with a lighter soil mix.
I’m apologizing now if I fry any of them a little. 😂
 

EnjoyingLife

Well-known member
My understanding is the ideal C:N for optimal plant growth is 24:1 but there’s a range maybe up to 30:1 or more. I know from farming if you till in wood chips or heavy crop residue nothing will grow right for years! Just for reference as crop residue Alfafa is 24:1, Wheat Straw 80:1, wood chips 300:1, bark 500:1 something like that. There sure is a lot of wood and bark in ffof and happy frog. Also when C:N is off other nutrients are also locked out. They say all the biology and most available nutrients are consumed by biology trying to break it down leaving little available for the plants.
Thanks for the very informative answer!
I saved it to my notes.
 

dubi

ACE Seeds Breeder
Vendor
Veteran
10 of 10 germinated in less than 14 hours. Not just little tail tips, full blown 1/2in+ long tap roots. Like always I can count on ACE gear to sprout. I wish other breeders had such high success rates.
8 of 10 were above soil surface within a day of being stuck in the dirt.

I’m very much looking forward to seeing how these do, and for the ass kicking education I know they’re going to give me with growing them under LED with a lighter soil mix.
I’m apologizing now if I fry any of them a little. 😂

Excellent :giggle: good luck with the pure Thai grow!
 

El Timbo

Well-known member
Mine are still flowering - low yield but plenty of trichomes.

DSCF0466[1].JPG
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
So has anyone found a stem rub scent or leaf shape early indicator of phenotype with this thai? Or perhaps sap color? I noticed a few of mine have blood red sap and some are clear when topped.
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
They’ve been on 12/12 since Oct 31 and were topped on Nov 17.
So far 6 out of 10 have shown female, 1 shows definite male, 2 I’m not 100% on but my guess is female and 1 that hasn’t shown any Preflowers yet at all.

These are the for sure girls.
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And this last girl is the one odd ball. Started as a trifoliate at the first node, single branch at the second, 2 branches off 1 side on the third node, and then back to fairly normal. The second node single branch was also a fasciated branch and was removed on the 17th when I topped them.
IMG_9818.jpeg
 

dubi

ACE Seeds Breeder
Vendor
Veteran
They’ve been on 12/12 since Oct 31 and were topped on Nov 17.
So far 6 out of 10 have shown female, 1 shows definite male, 2 I’m not 100% on but my guess is female and 1 that hasn’t shown any Preflowers yet at all.

These are the for sure girls.
View attachment 18921322
View attachment 18921323
View attachment 18921324
View attachment 18921325
View attachment 18921326
And this last girl is the one odd ball. Started as a trifoliate at the first node, single branch at the second, 2 branches off 1 side on the third node, and then back to fairly normal. The second node single branch was also a fasciated branch and was removed on the 17th when I topped them.
View attachment 18921327
So has anyone found a stem rub scent or leaf shape early indicator of phenotype with this thai? Or perhaps sap color? I noticed a few of mine have blood red sap and some are clear when topped.

Pure SE Asians seedlings will take time to reach sexual maturity and start to flower even from young with 12/12 photoperiod @Cactus Squatter so be patience. You can expect strong stretching and increase of size until preflowers start to accumulate. To induce faster-stronger flowering and minimize undesirable stretching better switch now to 11.5/12.5 or even 11/13, since these type of tropical sativas can endlessly stretch in non stop early flowering mode indors under 12/12. Good luck! ;)
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
Pure SE Asians seedlings will take time to reach sexual maturity and start to flower even from young with 12/12 photoperiod @Cactus Squatter so be patience. You can expect strong stretching and increase of size until preflowers start to accumulate. To induce faster-stronger flowering and minimize undesirable stretching better switch now to 11.5/12.5 or even 11/13, since these type of tropical sativas can endlessly stretch in non stop early flowering mode indors under 12/12. Good luck! ;)
7 females, 3 males as of last night. They apparently needed the one more day to show. 😂
I was about to ask you when to cut back on light hours to limit the stretch explosion I know is coming soon, I really appreciate the tips.
I’ll lower the light times a little bit tonight to 11.5/12.5 for a week or two and then go on to 11/13 for the remainder until the last few weeks of 10/14.

One of the males is extremely musky on stem rub. Kind of like the old school 80s cologne kind of musk smell. My plan is to separate the males once flowering really starts, get the girls up potted slightly and then later in flower hit some lower branches with a mix of all 3 males to make seeds. Do you have a recommendation on when in flower would be best to pollinate them?

This will be my first experience growing a pure Thai, I’m trying hard not to fry them or stress them in anyway.
So far they’ve been really happy in 2 gallon bags of Coco Loco with just a little bit of the Happy frog all purpose dry fert. It’s my first time using this soil as well, so I know I’m gambling a bit. I’ll be moving them into 7 gallon bags to flower out sometime soon now that the females have shown themselves.
 

xtsho

Well-known member
Some yellowing going on but I've bumped up the feed a little. I was cautious about overfeeding. It's also gotten pretty cold in the garage where the flower tent is and I just now put a heater inside so things should improve or at least not get any worse. They still have significant time until they're going to be ready to harvest. I'm thinking end of January. I'm definitely going to let them go the distance. There's no need to be impatient and harvest early.

Supercropping is your friend when growing sativas indoors in tents. The plants are around 6 ft tall but I've cropped them down far enough that they can fit under the light. Probably about 2-2.5 ft from the top is cropped them a few weeks ago. Puts them a couple inches from the glass of the sealed hood with the 600 watt HPS. Reminds me of previous Old Timers Haze Grows.

All of the the females were pollinated on part of the plant. One with a combination of two male Standard Thai's, one with Honduras, and another with {PCK x Durban} x {Durban} feminized pollen.

Two different plants. Can't wait to smoke it.

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I also saved one of the males after getting pollen from it. I cut off the top and saved the bottom half with branches that hadn't flowered. It's in the veg tent and is doing good. I'll use it later this winter for making a few more crosses.

StandardThaiAceMaleReveg11252023.jpg
 
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