Tea Article

[anferneybra]

Evening MB!

Hey buddy I have a question for ya, that should be an easy one!

I use your recipe of 2 cups of EWC per 5 gallons in free suspension in my brewer. If I am doing the math right I use about 1/2 cup per 5 gallons of molasses. Is this the correct amount at the .50%?

If not what is? Thanks buddy!

T

 

[anferneybra]

Nevermind buddy, after reading back some I found the post where they say 1/3-1/2 cup max per 5 gallons for molasses.

Thought I was going down the right path.

Hope all is well MBM!

T

 

[anferneybra]

Hey MBM quick question, or anyone else that has some input about it.

I have been having a bit of a PH issue with the teas of recent. It normally comes out around 6.0 ph, recently I am getting it at 5.0 or even 4.9, which is too acidic and is causing some issues with some strains. What can I do to correct this or can I add some powder dolomite lime or simple PH up to the tea to get it back to 6.0?

Thoughts? Thanks

T

 

[Granger2]

Try brewing it longer. I ususally let pH determine how long I brew it [after 24 hours]. I prefer that it go for at least 36 for the emergence of plant feeding predators of bacteria/archaea. Good luck. -granger

 

[Microbeman]

An acidic ACT usually will not negatively effect soil pH. It is quickly accommodated (buffered) by organic matter. A low pH could be an indicator of high fungal volume.

 

[anferneybra]

Glad to see you guys are active here.

So here is the plot.

I checked my RO water today in hopes to explain a little bit of this. I don't know if it matters, but my usual RO water is about 6.3-6.5 pH coming out with 0.0 EC. I run a 1:1 Growonix 1000 GDP.

So today the reading was 5.2-5.3 pH...which leads me to believe it had some effect on the tea itself. I changed the filters/membrane and got the water back on track. I understand that fungi dominant teas can be indicated by low pH, and the longer I brew the more chance of pH dive there is. This brew was a 48 hour brew with the 4.9-5.0 pH

I understand that my soil, which is well amended and live, should buffer my pH and I could go as low as 5.0 and up to 8.0 pH and the buffer would still play its game. However, after multiple low pH teas I believe something negative has occurred after checking my plants and seeing drying/dying leaves from the bottom up, with what looks like lockout/pH driven problems.

Now my batch that was in 3 gallon pots when the low pH teas were given, have since been potted up to 10 gallons and are not too adversely affected. However the batch 2 weeks behind it, that just potted up to 3 gallon from 4x4s, took the hit and is now recovering with fresh 6.5 pH water being given.

I have referenced this thread, your site as always MBM. Just as a nod, I saw your comments in the book "Compost Tea Making" by Marc Remillard. I can't find any real answer about pH adjustments.

I guess the main question I have is this:

Even if my tea is fungal dominant, can adjusting the pH up be done? If yes, how?

This brew was 35 gallons water, 14 cups EWC, 2.3 cups unsulfured blackstrap molasses, brewed with my custom diffuser in 55 gallon trash can, with 100L air pump 48 hours. DO meter reading 9.1 PPM

Love to discuss, or even solve

Thanks

T

 

[chappie]

If one obtains fresh compost tea from a reliable shop or friend, is it possible to use this as the source of a fresh brew? Add it to a new batch of fresh water, perhaps add nutrient, and then aerate as normal for 24 hours? I am thinking along the lines of using "starter" sourdough cultures or yeast sampling in beer brewing.

 

[Microbeman]

If one obtains fresh compost tea from a reliable shop or friend, is it possible to use this as the source of a fresh brew? Add it to a new batch of fresh water, perhaps add nutrient, and then aerate as normal for 24 hours? I am thinking along the lines of using "starter" sourdough cultures or yeast sampling in beer brewing.

This may have merit if the 'fresh compost tea' is indeed reliable. As I've stated previously, anyone selling compost tea must assay it with a microscope and be able to show the customer that there is a healthy population of bacteria/archaea and flagellates and/or naked amoebae.

If this is a shop running a perpetual brew as is recommended by the vortex brewer manufacturers, this doubly applies. It must be shown that if there is sufficient microbial activity, that it is not comprised of mostly ciliates which is a sign that the 'tea' has passed its peak/prime.

Of course it is different if acquiring for free from a friend. In that case just try it. I have maintained a finished tea for close to three days with sufficient aeration.

 

[redclover]

Howdy MM!!!

I have a question about applying brews with saponins...I like to use yucca and aloe. Can I add the powder to my just finished brew and then immediately water? Thanks.

 

[HankHanglow]

Anfern, from what I've read about teas and organic growing is that you don't need to worry about the ph or ppms as long as you're using an organic medium and tea.

 

[Granger2]

Hank,
Your statement has been the cause of many many arguments, which I have no desire to duplicate. I would say that that is true, mostly, and within reason. Much depends on your water. IME, in coco, repeatedly applying organic nute mixes with a pH below 4.5 causes problems that were cured by managing the pH into the 5.8 - 6.1 range. One thing I've learned is that there are no absolutes. Good luck. -granger

 

[Microbeman]

Howdy MM!!!

I have a question about applying brews with saponins...I like to use yucca and aloe. Can I add the powder to my just finished brew and then immediately water? Thanks.

I'm sorry but I have no experience with these but bear in mind that ACT contains bacteria and fungi, both of which create 'slime' which allows them to stick to foliage, if that is your goal.

 

[redclover]

I'm sorry but I have no experience with these but bear in mind that ACT contains bacteria and fungi, both of which create 'slime' which allows them to stick to foliage, if that is your goal.

Didn't think about the slime. Interesting stuff. I don't foliar my CTs usually, just like to get good even watering. Sounds pointless to use yucca or aloe if there's enough slime to act as a wetting agent.

 

[Sir D]

Whew finally got threw that! Might have been a bit easier without all the repetitive questions but what's done is done.

So here's a question concerning neem meal. Last year I had a mite problem and the girls were getting big enough to where using neem oil and spinosad was getting expensive fast but I did manage to to hit the plants twice with it. Still being concerned I went to buy lady bugs a and noticed the bag of neem meal which I bought and returned to make a tea for one hundred gallons using MMs recipe adding about 40 cups ewc, alfalfa, molasses, and I believe around two liters of the meal. I was thinking perhaps a bit overkill esp now after reading all this but this is what I did to try and rid myself of these mites. I also was having a bit of a yellowing problem which this tea cleared right up after foliaring it all! It really helped with the yellowing and gave everything the nice blueish green hue and also had no more signs of the mites. Now for the actual question
Is neem meal effective in teas for combating mites? I'm not sure if the lady bugs and previous applications was enough or if this also contributed? I'm thinking maybe just ewc and neem might create a good combo for this?

Another question- when making teas and applying a heater I know the heater gets hot as hell any ramifications from this? Possibly burning up the benes? I just brew it cold as of late cause I worry about this.

Thanks for all the contributors on here the info you provide (esp MM) is priceless thank you!

 

[PaintingHammers]

I think most beginners just want a basic scientific recipe of Veg/Flower. All I see is Pages and Pages of microscopic and college text experiments. That's all cool but it's a lot to sift through when most beginners are just looking for some recipes. It's kind of a pita.

 

[xmobotx]

i have seen the claim that neem can be systemic. not so sure because i have also seen spider mites on neem-amended soil {w/ karanja foliars even} i do believe that the neem {in the soil} helps but i don;t think it functions as a stand-alone preventive/fix

I think most beginners just want a basic scientific recipe of Veg/Flower. All I see is Pages and Pages of microscopic and college text experiments. That's all cool but it's a lot to sift through when most beginners are just looking for some recipes. It's kind of a pita.

actually, that is exactly what i was looking for. compost tea is a fairly small component of the system & needs to be fairly basic~
~that's why i do the water/compost/molasses recipe. I use about 1 c of compost {actually a "handful"} and a full "shot" of molasses {yes a liquor "shot"} to 4 gallons of water

 

[redclover]

i have seen the claim that neem can be systemic. not so sure because i have also seen spider mites on neem-amended soil {w/ karanja foliars even} i do believe that the neem {in the soil} helps but i don;t think it functions as a stand-alone preventive/fix

actually, that is exactly what i was looking for. compost tea is a fairly small component of the system & needs to be fairly basic~
~that's why i do the water/compost/molasses recipe. I use about 1 c of compost {actually a "handful"} and a full "shot" of molasses {yes a liquor "shot"} to 4 gallons of water

LOL. LOve the chef like measurements!!! I do the same. Pinch o this pinch of that and BAM....benies to the rescue.

I'm a bit perturbed as of late with the crab meal, my own EWC, and CTs only to be swarmed by gnats. I follow the DO2 plus some...what gives. I also keep my 'top barrier' moist and active with mulch.

 

[Microbeman]

Whew finally got threw that! Might have been a bit easier without all the repetitive questions but what's done is done.

So here's a question concerning neem meal. Last year I had a mite problem and the girls were getting big enough to where using neem oil and spinosad was getting expensive fast but I did manage to to hit the plants twice with it. Still being concerned I went to buy lady bugs a and noticed the bag of neem meal which I bought and returned to make a tea for one hundred gallons using MMs recipe adding about 40 cups ewc, alfalfa, molasses, and I believe around two liters of the meal. I was thinking perhaps a bit overkill esp now after reading all this but this is what I did to try and rid myself of these mites. I also was having a bit of a yellowing problem which this tea cleared right up after foliaring it all! It really helped with the yellowing and gave everything the nice blueish green hue and also had no more signs of the mites. Now for the actual question
Is neem meal effective in teas for combating mites? I'm not sure if the lady bugs and previous applications was enough or if this also contributed? I'm thinking maybe just ewc and neem might create a good combo for this?

Another question- when making teas and applying a heater I know the heater gets hot as hell any ramifications from this? Possibly burning up the benes? I just brew it cold as of late cause I worry about this.

Thanks for all the contributors on here the info you provide (esp MM) is priceless thank you!

I do not use a heater myself

I doubt that neem is a good ingredient for ACT. Timing is the main thing. Usually at 36 to 40 hours you have the protozoa to bacterial ratio you need for nutrient cycling (a finished tea). This can be moved up by pre-feeding the compost > http://www.microbeorganics.com/#More_on_Compost_Tea_2013_
- also includes the basic recipe asked about.

 

[Sir D]

I get what your saying for the microbe sake neem is not effective and Perhaps my question is misplaced and the proper question for here would be have you experimented with neem? As in the place of maybe alfalfa? I guess I am also wondering what is the make up (as in what nutrients are available in neem and alfalfa) which here may May not be the best place for the question. I understand the biology of the soil is what we're after for here but seeing everything turn green from the neem treatment has me wondering in what other ways teas could be useful? Is it possible by using the tea process one could gain some other affects besides building microbial life? Even if there is no life is it possible it could break it done to help make more available the nutrients in some other way? Just wondering

 

[Microbeman]

I'm sorry but I'm not understanding

Even if there is no life is it possible it could break it done to help make more available the nutrients in some other way?

What is it and it? If you mean the neem, then why not use it on its own? Why bother with the brewing process?