Yukon Cornelius
Member
I am not going to go through all 68 pages, but if nobody suggested, even if there are air stones there can be dead spots in your tub. Dead spots equals poor O2. What do I know though.....
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Strange Slime buildup on roots
- Thread starter guice
- Start date
Man..I spent about the last week reading most of this thread..i havent got all the way to the end , its a looonngg ass thread man.
I took my drip system down and im doing a couple non recurculating bubblers. The oldest plant i have was switched over yesterday and seems to be doing ok. Ive been top feeding it a bit also. When i took it out the pot i had it in, some of the roots where brown some where white. From some of the reading ive been doing. The organic nutes i was using (bio-grow) may have caused them to go brown. My gut tells me it was rot though. I gave the roots a bath in h202 and ph'd tap water and some of the roots fell off. Ive switched to the GH 3 part nutes with sm90 and some h202. If the slime pops up i will start brewing some of that good ol tea.
Quick ?..where can i get the ingredients at. Ive read through most of this thread but like i said man its long i cant remember where RR said to get them from. THANKS a mil!
I took my drip system down and im doing a couple non recurculating bubblers. The oldest plant i have was switched over yesterday and seems to be doing ok. Ive been top feeding it a bit also. When i took it out the pot i had it in, some of the roots where brown some where white. From some of the reading ive been doing. The organic nutes i was using (bio-grow) may have caused them to go brown. My gut tells me it was rot though. I gave the roots a bath in h202 and ph'd tap water and some of the roots fell off. Ive switched to the GH 3 part nutes with sm90 and some h202. If the slime pops up i will start brewing some of that good ol tea.
Quick ?..where can i get the ingredients at. Ive read through most of this thread but like i said man its long i cant remember where RR said to get them from. THANKS a mil!
ive been battlin root rot for a few months winning the war slowly/painfully and was wonderin if the enzymes may cause this i seen ppl cut the hydrozyme out of there nute soup and say it went away. i thought it helped with dead roots breaking them down.
i currently use senzyme have noticed an improvement when i use it at half strengh i uped it back to full strengh and i see it comin back my grow is now comin to an end im flushin next week so im not stressed but need to pic up more nutes for the next set of ladys goin into flower and think i may save 130bucks and leave it out or use it in small doses if somone can tell me why i should.
anyway my ? is if somone can explain to me how hydrozyme/senzyme causes root rot or if i should just keep lookin for other causes its not my temps as the dont change/plenty of air i use 1 hd pump per 2 buckets with 3 airlines each and i veg my plants about 6-8wks and the rot doesnt appear till i go up to full strength flower nutes addin the senzyme along with the rest of AN connisseur line. if somone who cut out usin enzymes can give me some info on the how and why aspect of this it will be greatly appreciated
peace stone
i currently use senzyme have noticed an improvement when i use it at half strengh i uped it back to full strengh and i see it comin back my grow is now comin to an end im flushin next week so im not stressed but need to pic up more nutes for the next set of ladys goin into flower and think i may save 130bucks and leave it out or use it in small doses if somone can tell me why i should.
anyway my ? is if somone can explain to me how hydrozyme/senzyme causes root rot or if i should just keep lookin for other causes its not my temps as the dont change/plenty of air i use 1 hd pump per 2 buckets with 3 airlines each and i veg my plants about 6-8wks and the rot doesnt appear till i go up to full strength flower nutes addin the senzyme along with the rest of AN connisseur line. if somone who cut out usin enzymes can give me some info on the how and why aspect of this it will be greatly appreciated
peace stone
You need to know if you really have root rot (pythium) or the slime. Ditch the zymes asap, they feed the slime with organic food from the break down of the dead roots. Save your money. Go straight chem nutes and get to making some EWC tea. Clean out with Pyhsan20. Problems will go away. Its as simple as that. Deviate from this and your problems will continue almost guaranteed.
i know for a fact i have pythium i know that rot smell very well unfortunatelyy not algae i have 3 more days till my final flush so im not worried about this crop it came out incredible despite the rot its just a huge pain in the ass fighting it throughout the grow trying to keep it under controle
richy- thankyou for that info you saved me some nice $$$ now i have xtra to play with when i go to the hydrostore i think im gonna pic up a better ec\ppm meter the truechon pen cost about the same as the gal of senzyme
i got some research to do now as the line of nutes im using has some organics and some nonorganics so im off to the an webpage to figure out what i want to cut from my nute line up
much respect thanks brotha cant give u more rep but when i can itll be comin ur way
peace stone
richy- thankyou for that info you saved me some nice $$$ now i have xtra to play with when i go to the hydrostore i think im gonna pic up a better ec\ppm meter the truechon pen cost about the same as the gal of senzyme
i got some research to do now as the line of nutes im using has some organics and some nonorganics so im off to the an webpage to figure out what i want to cut from my nute line up
much respect thanks brotha cant give u more rep but when i can itll be comin ur way
peace stone
Sackushman
Member
Use earth juices catalyst with everything you do and your roots will never have anything wrong with them. Nothing ever goes without it!
It looks like my combination of RO filtering and UV sterilization has worked to clean my res water of all nasties, including the slime algae! My roots have never been so white! Want to rid yourself of the stuff forever? RO and UV.
kstampy
Member
Ran across this today and thought I would throw this in here for reference. From the EZ-Cloner guy himself supposedly. I know it is long but it has some good info.
I just got hit by this crap and am going through my own steps to isolate the problem which I think is my tap water, I really want to go back to using straight up RO water and clonex gel with 100% success like I have gotten many times before. Really glad this thread turned me on to Physan20 that stuff is awesome. I hope this helps.
Cloning Manual
My name is Billy Blackburn. I am the creator/inventor of the EZ-CLONE cloning system and an owner
of EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc. First of all, I would like to say congratulations on the purchase of your
new EZ-CLONE and thank you very much for your business and choosing us to fulfill your cloning
needs.
The EZ-CLONE was specifically designed to simplify the plant cloning process and eliminate the need
for daily maintenance. That being said, there are still a few technical advice questions that I regularly
receive, so I am going to share with you exactly what I do to get the best possible results from start to
finish. Please understand that this is specifically MY opinion. My formula for success is based on
personal experience using the system that I designed, the gathering of information from others who
have purchased and use our product, and feedback from other hydroponic industry experts. Please be
aware that I understand there are numerous products on the market that may be used in conjunction
with the EZ-CLONE cloning system to get good results. The products that I choose to use are simply
my personal preference.
Sections Covered
• Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
• Unit Placement
• Lighting
• Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
• Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
• Water Temperature and Water Chillers
• Daily Maintenance
• Transplanting
• Humidity Domes???
• Cleaning Between Uses
Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
After removing the unit from the packaging material and before starting assembly, I always do a quick
rinse down of the lid and reservoir to remove any unwanted dust or debris that may have been caused
by shipping. Next, assembly of the unit is very basic and takes just a few minutes. Follow the assembly
instructions supplied in the unit. If for any reason the instructions were lost or missing from the package,
please go to www.ezclone.com and click on assembly instructions.
Unit Placement
The unit can be placed on either the floor or up off the ground on any structure stable enough to hold it
when filled with water. I prefer to set it on a sturdy plastic table or stand.
EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc.
10170 Croydon Way, Suite G
Sacramento, CA 95827
Lighting
The preferred lighting to use is a 2 or 4 foot dual fluorescent fixture. The 40 watt bulbs work best and
this is a sufficient amount of light for the delicate cuttings. A 2 foot fixture works well over our 30 cutting
unit and a 4 foot fixture supplies adequate coverage over our 60 and 120 cutting units. The light should
be securely suspended over the unit and should be placed about 8-12 inches above the top of the
cuttings.
Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
Next, with the manifold properly attached to the water pump and placed in the center of the reservoir,
fill the reservoir with tap water or another source of quality water. Fill the unit until the water is just
touching the very bottom of the misters, making sure not to cover them. This will ensure that there is
the largest volume of water in the reservoir possible without hindering the operation of the manifold.
Remember, the more water that’s in the unit, the cooler the water will remain, and the more stable the
ph level will be.
Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway.
Note: The additives I choose to use for the cloning process are NOT high in macronutrients. In
other words, I am not adding nutrients that will feed the plants with high NPK levels. (N=Nitrogen,
P=Phosphorus, and K=Potassium) Regular plant nutrients should be saved until the cuttings
have developed an adequate root system. I know that some people choose to clone with light
amounts of these nutrients, but in my experience, it takes the cutting longer to develop roots.
The reason a cutting is growing roots to begin with is because it’s in survival mode. It’s searching
for food. So, by adding nutrients to a cutting before it has developed a root structure or “a mouth”
if you will, it’s completely defeating the purpose. Save your nutrients until the plant needs them!
Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
Next, I start taking cuttings from my Mother or Donor plant. I prefer to take them directly from the Mom
right before I’m ready to insert them into the unit. On the average, I take a 4 or 5 inch cutting and leave
2 to 4 leaves on the top. If the leaves are small, I don’t trim them. If they are medium to large, I will trim
half of each leaf off. The reason for this is because the cutting only requires a small leaf area to absorb
a sufficient amount of light to keep it alive. Also, because the cutting does not have a root structure yet,
the leaves are sustained by the amount of moisture that is held in the stem. If the leaves are smaller,
the cutting does not have to work as hard to supply moisture to the leaves, which allows the cutting to
focus its energy on “producing roots”. It also has the added benefit of reducing the overall amount of
leaf area on the top of the Cloner. This prevents some leaves from getting covered by others and
makes for an overall friendlier environment.
As I take each cutting, I will cut it from the Mom with either a sharp razor blade or a quality pair of
trimming shears. Make sure the cutting utensil is clean. It can be sterilized with isopropyl alcohol, a
lighter, or both. I prefer both. I have heard multiple times that it’s necessary for the cutting to be taken
at a 45 degree angle. This is completely false. It does not matter. Just make sure the cut is clean and
the bottom of the cutting is not mangled. Roots will form along the wall of the stem.
Also, I use EZ-CLONE Rooting Gel. After taking each cutting, I place the cutting inside the jar of gel and
let it sit there until I have taken approximately 8 cuttings. This means I have 8 cuttings soaking up the
gel. I pull them out one at a time, insert each cutting into a New Neoprene Collar and place the collar
into the unit. In a 120 unit, there are 15 rows of 8. This is why I take 8 cuttings at a time. I prefer to fill
up a row, take 8 more cuttings, fill up another row, and continue that pattern until the lid is full.
Although the neoprene collars can be reused, I highly recommend using new collars every time you
clone instead of trying to clean the previously used ones. When the collars are used, they can get slime
in the pores, cracks, and creases from various types of additives and I think it’s a bit difficult to
guarantee they get totally clean. I would rather spend the few bucks for new collars and not have to
worry about potentially getting any bad bacteria due the old collars not being cleaned properly.
It is also important to let you know that I do not turn the water pump on until I have the entire unit full of
cuttings and have ph balanced the water. It usually takes about an hour to take 120 cuttings and insert
them into the lid. During this time, the cuttings are still absorbing the gel and an hour is not too long to
wait before turning on the water pump. The clones usually will not wilt within this hour time period, but
if you do get some minor wilting, after you plug the pump in, the clones will perk right back up.
Water Temperature and Water Chillers
IMPORTANT!! - Ok, now it’s time for water temperature. As with most aeroponic and hydroponic
systems, the EZ-CLONE was designed to be used indoors or in a temperature controlled environment.
When I was creating and first started using the EZ-CLONE, I noticed that if my water temperature was
getting over 80 degrees in the reservoir, the cuttings were prone to developing harmful bacteria. This
was usually in the form of a grayish-brown slime, and if not treated quickly, would kill all of my cuttings.
That being said, it didn’t take me very long to figure out that during warm periods of the year, I had to
keep the unit in an air-conditioned room or find another way of keeping my water at a suitable
temperature. My focus was keeping my water as close to 70 degrees as possible. This is where I was
seeing the best results and as long as I was cleaning the unit properly in between uses, my results were
very good, usually between 95-100%.
In an attempt to further the output of the cloning system during hot times of the year and achieve more
consistent results, I decided to try using a Water Chiller. These allow you to cool the water down
considerably without having to place the Cloner in an air-conditioned room. I thought about how much
energy was consumed by running an air conditioner in comparison to the amount of energy used by the
Water Chiller. Although a good quality Water Chiller is a few hundred bucks, it does use considerably
less electricity and it applies the cold water directly to the unit as opposed to trying to cool the air around
it. The amount of money that you save in air conditioning costs pays for the Water Chiller in no time at
all. It’s well worth the investment!
Anyway, I now use a Water Chiller instead of air conditioning. I set the Chiller temperature at 68
degrees and I get better results than I’ve ever seen. The cuttings root within 5-7 days, look absolutely
beautiful, and are able to be pulled from the unit in 10-14 days with about 100% success.
Daily Maintenance
One of the most valuable benefits of using the EZ-CLONE is that it is designed to plug in and let it do
its thing. My time is very valuable and I wanted something to work “for me” not the other way around.
My experience with conventional methods of cloning (putting the cuttings into various mediums and
under humidity domes) was less than successful. Results were sporadic and I never liked the fact that
the cuttings had to be babysat and sprayed with water regularly to keep them from drying out. I’m
always proud when people tell me that they filled up their EZ-CLONE, went on vacation, and when they
came back, had beautiful healthy roots. THAT is what the product is designed to do!
Transplanting
Another major benefit to the EZ-CLONE is that your cuttings are developing roots aeroponically and are
not surrounded by any particular growing medium before they’re ready to transplant. This allows you to
remove the cuttings from the unit and the freedom to place them into soil, soilless mixes, rockwool,
hydroton (clay rocks), coco fiber, pure organic mixes, or to go straight into larger aeroponic or
hydroponic systems. It’s very versatile.
Humidity Domes???
The EZ-CLONE was originally created without a humidity dome specifically because it is NOT
necessary. Conventional methods of cloning require domes to keep the medium and clones from drying
out too quickly. They also require the grower to keep a constant eye on the cuttings to make sure they
don't wilt and die. The inner workings of an EZ-CLONE provide the perfect environment for rapid root
growth. Because the EZ-CLONE gives the cuttings a constant aeroponic mist of solution from inside the
unit, being concerned with the cuttings drying out is never an issue. Also, when cuttings are rooted
under domes and the domes are removed for transplanting, the cuttings go through a period of shock
and can often die. Another benefit to cloning without a humidity dome is that it allows the cuttings to
transpire and breathe naturally and much more efficiently. This drastically reduces the chance of
creating “too much” humidity and attracting harmful airborne fungi such as powdery mildew. The
companies out there who have attempted to copy our design and include a humidity dome are simply
trying to fool the end consumer into believing that the dome is necessary. Leave the domes off! It’s
better for the plants.
Cleaning Between Uses
To keep your EZ-CLONE and all your hydroponic equipment functioning at its peak performance
requires proper cleaning techniques in between uses. The EZ-CLONE is very simple to clean and can
be done very quickly. After a successful cloning cycle, empty the water from the reservoir. The smaller
30 and 60 cutting units can usually be placed in a standard size bathtub. The 120 unit usually needs to
be placed on the ground somewhere with easy access. You may want to do this outside if you don’t
have a bathtub large enough to clean the 120 unit in.
I prefer to fill the used empty reservoir up with hot water completely to the top. If hot water is not
available, cold water will work just fine. I’ll then add 1 cup of standard bleach to a 30 size unit, 2 cups
to a 60 unit, and 3 cups to a 120 unit. Next, I’ll quickly unscrew the misters out of the manifold and I’ll
place my water pump with the manifold attached directly in the center of the reservoir and plug it in.
NOTE: I unscrew the misters to take extra precaution and to flush out any possible root mass or slime
that may have attached to the manifold threads. At this point the pump and manifold are completely
submerged and the hot bleach water is being pushed through both of them, sterilizing the unit. Next, I’ll
place the misters and all airlines in the bleach water at the bottom of the reservoir also. After letting the
unit run in the hot bleach water for approximately 20 minutes, I’ll pull the pump, manifold, misters, and
air tubing out. If the water is too hot, a small fish net works well for scooping them up.
I’ll then take a scrub brush approximately 2 feet in length (toilet brushes work great) and scrub down
the walls of the reservoir, put the lid upside down in the reservoir, and scrub down the inside and
outside of the lid. Empty the bleach water and THOROUGHLY rinse all parts with clean water and
you’re ready for a new cloning cycle. Remember…if you’re reusing the neoprene collars instead of
using new ones, they can be thrown in the bleach water and rinsed as well. Also be careful not to wear
any nice clothes as the bleach water may stain them.
I hope this helps everyone who owns an EZ-CLONE and THANK YOU again for your business and
support. KEEP GROWIN!!!
http://www.ezclone.com/cloning_manual.pdf
also had this from a long time ago
http://www.growthtechnology.com/downloads/EZ_Clone_Instructions_V1.pdf
I just got hit by this crap and am going through my own steps to isolate the problem which I think is my tap water, I really want to go back to using straight up RO water and clonex gel with 100% success like I have gotten many times before. Really glad this thread turned me on to Physan20 that stuff is awesome. I hope this helps.
Cloning Manual
My name is Billy Blackburn. I am the creator/inventor of the EZ-CLONE cloning system and an owner
of EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc. First of all, I would like to say congratulations on the purchase of your
new EZ-CLONE and thank you very much for your business and choosing us to fulfill your cloning
needs.
The EZ-CLONE was specifically designed to simplify the plant cloning process and eliminate the need
for daily maintenance. That being said, there are still a few technical advice questions that I regularly
receive, so I am going to share with you exactly what I do to get the best possible results from start to
finish. Please understand that this is specifically MY opinion. My formula for success is based on
personal experience using the system that I designed, the gathering of information from others who
have purchased and use our product, and feedback from other hydroponic industry experts. Please be
aware that I understand there are numerous products on the market that may be used in conjunction
with the EZ-CLONE cloning system to get good results. The products that I choose to use are simply
my personal preference.
Sections Covered
• Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
• Unit Placement
• Lighting
• Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
• Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
• Water Temperature and Water Chillers
• Daily Maintenance
• Transplanting
• Humidity Domes???
• Cleaning Between Uses
Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
After removing the unit from the packaging material and before starting assembly, I always do a quick
rinse down of the lid and reservoir to remove any unwanted dust or debris that may have been caused
by shipping. Next, assembly of the unit is very basic and takes just a few minutes. Follow the assembly
instructions supplied in the unit. If for any reason the instructions were lost or missing from the package,
please go to www.ezclone.com and click on assembly instructions.
Unit Placement
The unit can be placed on either the floor or up off the ground on any structure stable enough to hold it
when filled with water. I prefer to set it on a sturdy plastic table or stand.
EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc.
10170 Croydon Way, Suite G
Sacramento, CA 95827
Lighting
The preferred lighting to use is a 2 or 4 foot dual fluorescent fixture. The 40 watt bulbs work best and
this is a sufficient amount of light for the delicate cuttings. A 2 foot fixture works well over our 30 cutting
unit and a 4 foot fixture supplies adequate coverage over our 60 and 120 cutting units. The light should
be securely suspended over the unit and should be placed about 8-12 inches above the top of the
cuttings.
Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
Next, with the manifold properly attached to the water pump and placed in the center of the reservoir,
fill the reservoir with tap water or another source of quality water. Fill the unit until the water is just
touching the very bottom of the misters, making sure not to cover them. This will ensure that there is
the largest volume of water in the reservoir possible without hindering the operation of the manifold.
Remember, the more water that’s in the unit, the cooler the water will remain, and the more stable the
ph level will be.
Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway.
Note: The additives I choose to use for the cloning process are NOT high in macronutrients. In
other words, I am not adding nutrients that will feed the plants with high NPK levels. (N=Nitrogen,
P=Phosphorus, and K=Potassium) Regular plant nutrients should be saved until the cuttings
have developed an adequate root system. I know that some people choose to clone with light
amounts of these nutrients, but in my experience, it takes the cutting longer to develop roots.
The reason a cutting is growing roots to begin with is because it’s in survival mode. It’s searching
for food. So, by adding nutrients to a cutting before it has developed a root structure or “a mouth”
if you will, it’s completely defeating the purpose. Save your nutrients until the plant needs them!
Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
Next, I start taking cuttings from my Mother or Donor plant. I prefer to take them directly from the Mom
right before I’m ready to insert them into the unit. On the average, I take a 4 or 5 inch cutting and leave
2 to 4 leaves on the top. If the leaves are small, I don’t trim them. If they are medium to large, I will trim
half of each leaf off. The reason for this is because the cutting only requires a small leaf area to absorb
a sufficient amount of light to keep it alive. Also, because the cutting does not have a root structure yet,
the leaves are sustained by the amount of moisture that is held in the stem. If the leaves are smaller,
the cutting does not have to work as hard to supply moisture to the leaves, which allows the cutting to
focus its energy on “producing roots”. It also has the added benefit of reducing the overall amount of
leaf area on the top of the Cloner. This prevents some leaves from getting covered by others and
makes for an overall friendlier environment.
As I take each cutting, I will cut it from the Mom with either a sharp razor blade or a quality pair of
trimming shears. Make sure the cutting utensil is clean. It can be sterilized with isopropyl alcohol, a
lighter, or both. I prefer both. I have heard multiple times that it’s necessary for the cutting to be taken
at a 45 degree angle. This is completely false. It does not matter. Just make sure the cut is clean and
the bottom of the cutting is not mangled. Roots will form along the wall of the stem.
Also, I use EZ-CLONE Rooting Gel. After taking each cutting, I place the cutting inside the jar of gel and
let it sit there until I have taken approximately 8 cuttings. This means I have 8 cuttings soaking up the
gel. I pull them out one at a time, insert each cutting into a New Neoprene Collar and place the collar
into the unit. In a 120 unit, there are 15 rows of 8. This is why I take 8 cuttings at a time. I prefer to fill
up a row, take 8 more cuttings, fill up another row, and continue that pattern until the lid is full.
Although the neoprene collars can be reused, I highly recommend using new collars every time you
clone instead of trying to clean the previously used ones. When the collars are used, they can get slime
in the pores, cracks, and creases from various types of additives and I think it’s a bit difficult to
guarantee they get totally clean. I would rather spend the few bucks for new collars and not have to
worry about potentially getting any bad bacteria due the old collars not being cleaned properly.
It is also important to let you know that I do not turn the water pump on until I have the entire unit full of
cuttings and have ph balanced the water. It usually takes about an hour to take 120 cuttings and insert
them into the lid. During this time, the cuttings are still absorbing the gel and an hour is not too long to
wait before turning on the water pump. The clones usually will not wilt within this hour time period, but
if you do get some minor wilting, after you plug the pump in, the clones will perk right back up.
Water Temperature and Water Chillers
IMPORTANT!! - Ok, now it’s time for water temperature. As with most aeroponic and hydroponic
systems, the EZ-CLONE was designed to be used indoors or in a temperature controlled environment.
When I was creating and first started using the EZ-CLONE, I noticed that if my water temperature was
getting over 80 degrees in the reservoir, the cuttings were prone to developing harmful bacteria. This
was usually in the form of a grayish-brown slime, and if not treated quickly, would kill all of my cuttings.
That being said, it didn’t take me very long to figure out that during warm periods of the year, I had to
keep the unit in an air-conditioned room or find another way of keeping my water at a suitable
temperature. My focus was keeping my water as close to 70 degrees as possible. This is where I was
seeing the best results and as long as I was cleaning the unit properly in between uses, my results were
very good, usually between 95-100%.
In an attempt to further the output of the cloning system during hot times of the year and achieve more
consistent results, I decided to try using a Water Chiller. These allow you to cool the water down
considerably without having to place the Cloner in an air-conditioned room. I thought about how much
energy was consumed by running an air conditioner in comparison to the amount of energy used by the
Water Chiller. Although a good quality Water Chiller is a few hundred bucks, it does use considerably
less electricity and it applies the cold water directly to the unit as opposed to trying to cool the air around
it. The amount of money that you save in air conditioning costs pays for the Water Chiller in no time at
all. It’s well worth the investment!
Anyway, I now use a Water Chiller instead of air conditioning. I set the Chiller temperature at 68
degrees and I get better results than I’ve ever seen. The cuttings root within 5-7 days, look absolutely
beautiful, and are able to be pulled from the unit in 10-14 days with about 100% success.
Daily Maintenance
One of the most valuable benefits of using the EZ-CLONE is that it is designed to plug in and let it do
its thing. My time is very valuable and I wanted something to work “for me” not the other way around.
My experience with conventional methods of cloning (putting the cuttings into various mediums and
under humidity domes) was less than successful. Results were sporadic and I never liked the fact that
the cuttings had to be babysat and sprayed with water regularly to keep them from drying out. I’m
always proud when people tell me that they filled up their EZ-CLONE, went on vacation, and when they
came back, had beautiful healthy roots. THAT is what the product is designed to do!
Transplanting
Another major benefit to the EZ-CLONE is that your cuttings are developing roots aeroponically and are
not surrounded by any particular growing medium before they’re ready to transplant. This allows you to
remove the cuttings from the unit and the freedom to place them into soil, soilless mixes, rockwool,
hydroton (clay rocks), coco fiber, pure organic mixes, or to go straight into larger aeroponic or
hydroponic systems. It’s very versatile.
Humidity Domes???
The EZ-CLONE was originally created without a humidity dome specifically because it is NOT
necessary. Conventional methods of cloning require domes to keep the medium and clones from drying
out too quickly. They also require the grower to keep a constant eye on the cuttings to make sure they
don't wilt and die. The inner workings of an EZ-CLONE provide the perfect environment for rapid root
growth. Because the EZ-CLONE gives the cuttings a constant aeroponic mist of solution from inside the
unit, being concerned with the cuttings drying out is never an issue. Also, when cuttings are rooted
under domes and the domes are removed for transplanting, the cuttings go through a period of shock
and can often die. Another benefit to cloning without a humidity dome is that it allows the cuttings to
transpire and breathe naturally and much more efficiently. This drastically reduces the chance of
creating “too much” humidity and attracting harmful airborne fungi such as powdery mildew. The
companies out there who have attempted to copy our design and include a humidity dome are simply
trying to fool the end consumer into believing that the dome is necessary. Leave the domes off! It’s
better for the plants.
Cleaning Between Uses
To keep your EZ-CLONE and all your hydroponic equipment functioning at its peak performance
requires proper cleaning techniques in between uses. The EZ-CLONE is very simple to clean and can
be done very quickly. After a successful cloning cycle, empty the water from the reservoir. The smaller
30 and 60 cutting units can usually be placed in a standard size bathtub. The 120 unit usually needs to
be placed on the ground somewhere with easy access. You may want to do this outside if you don’t
have a bathtub large enough to clean the 120 unit in.
I prefer to fill the used empty reservoir up with hot water completely to the top. If hot water is not
available, cold water will work just fine. I’ll then add 1 cup of standard bleach to a 30 size unit, 2 cups
to a 60 unit, and 3 cups to a 120 unit. Next, I’ll quickly unscrew the misters out of the manifold and I’ll
place my water pump with the manifold attached directly in the center of the reservoir and plug it in.
NOTE: I unscrew the misters to take extra precaution and to flush out any possible root mass or slime
that may have attached to the manifold threads. At this point the pump and manifold are completely
submerged and the hot bleach water is being pushed through both of them, sterilizing the unit. Next, I’ll
place the misters and all airlines in the bleach water at the bottom of the reservoir also. After letting the
unit run in the hot bleach water for approximately 20 minutes, I’ll pull the pump, manifold, misters, and
air tubing out. If the water is too hot, a small fish net works well for scooping them up.
I’ll then take a scrub brush approximately 2 feet in length (toilet brushes work great) and scrub down
the walls of the reservoir, put the lid upside down in the reservoir, and scrub down the inside and
outside of the lid. Empty the bleach water and THOROUGHLY rinse all parts with clean water and
you’re ready for a new cloning cycle. Remember…if you’re reusing the neoprene collars instead of
using new ones, they can be thrown in the bleach water and rinsed as well. Also be careful not to wear
any nice clothes as the bleach water may stain them.
I hope this helps everyone who owns an EZ-CLONE and THANK YOU again for your business and
support. KEEP GROWIN!!!
http://www.ezclone.com/cloning_manual.pdf
also had this from a long time ago
http://www.growthtechnology.com/downloads/EZ_Clone_Instructions_V1.pdf
quick question
quick question
read this pretty much all the way through. im doin an ebb an gro with 6 inch rockwool and hygroton. anyone know if i can do the physan in the rez for this? like run it a few times through?seemed sort of different cause of the big cube and me not knowing if it would be harmful to hold all the physan even at recommended dosage. thanksssss
quick question
read this pretty much all the way through. im doin an ebb an gro with 6 inch rockwool and hygroton. anyone know if i can do the physan in the rez for this? like run it a few times through?seemed sort of different cause of the big cube and me not knowing if it would be harmful to hold all the physan even at recommended dosage. thanksssss
oh
oh
so you think at 1ml per 10 gallons itll be alright?even with the big ol rockwool cube? and hey, if the plants all droopy (really) like some are and some others are seemin wet and not eatin, wont flushin em like that make it worse.i guess you just got to?
thanks for answering!!!!!
oh
so you think at 1ml per 10 gallons itll be alright?even with the big ol rockwool cube? and hey, if the plants all droopy (really) like some are and some others are seemin wet and not eatin, wont flushin em like that make it worse.i guess you just got to?
thanks for answering!!!!!
darthvapor
Active member
I used watermax from bobs brew at 5ml per gall in my ez-clone and it took care of my slime problem. this stuff is unbelievable better than h2o2. If your a hydro guy it also cleans out your tubing lines and helps with nutrient lock out as well. I use it to prevent slime and to also flush my plants. check it out at bobsbrew.net Ive never ever used my ez cloner without getting the slimey roots until I used this stuff. It was alot cheaper than buying a chiller! Im experimenting now using it on everything from germinating seeds to pre conditioning my rockwool and also using it for a final flush. Anybody else have any experiences with this stuff?
Greenmopho
Member
I didnt read your link, however this thread is not about root rot/pythium. It is about brown slime algae. Completely different.
kstampy
Member
Sharl you just have to experiment with what works in your set up, just remember to start with a small amount and move up from there if you need to. I am gonna try it soon in the ezcloner with maybe 2-5ml in 5gal of RO through the whole process as a preventative like h2o2 because 1ml seemed to be ok for a couple of days. If it bubbles up nasty replace the water, sterilize as much as possible and start again. The cleaner the better always when growing (not that I am the cleanest person lol).
hey kstampty. so i physaned with the 1ml per gallon. i didnt take the plants out of their buckets.you know just flushed 2 times. water sits in each bucket for 15 minutes then drains. i didnt suck out the water from under each bucket, which is where the shit seems to colonize.i kinda thought it was maybe just dead slime. think so? physan didnt hurt the plants but i cant tell if it did anything positive yet. there was some brown in the new rez today,so.....wonder if i should physan them again?they didnt drink much today at all. added some beneficials with the rez change.
