Straintalk and comparative anatomy

[Cannabologist]

What types constitututed to a classical Afghani? Could one come up with a 'squat indica' crossing non indica lines from different parts of Asia? Or was the Afghanica phenotype born in Central Asia to begin with?

The “indica” ie. broadleaved morphotype seen in afghani and other middle eastern populations is to me an exaggeration of that selected form over time. The form probably came about from an existing population elsewhere ie. seeds of a broadleaved form from another geographic region brought to the area, say for instance from Yunnan or even far western china across a northern route following the Himalayas to the eastern side of Northern Pakistan or Afghanistan… And then selected for over time by the peoples there. Or wide leaved morphotypes could have just been a random mutation within the fields of plants of various morphotypes already existing and perhaps being cultivated in that region, eventually picked out from particular populations and selected for over time by human hands, again giving us the greatly exaggerated form we see today.

Nearly any map of human migration one can find that dictates migratory patterns and trade routes can be used to sort out the traverse history of cannabis and it’s cultivation.

 

[marijuanamat]

I smell bacon

 

[Thule]

I smell bacon

What do you mean by that?

There hasn't been any point in updating the thread without a camera. That's about to change soon enough though.

 

[Thule]

Apparently there was someone trolling the threads but the messages got deleted.

Anyways.. To continue where I left off, I'll be sprouting some C. chinensis now. Let's see if they're an indica or something different.

 

[oldchuck]

Bacon comes from pigs, Thule. It was a suspicious post that reminded some of us of clumsy cops otherwise known as pigs.

 

[OakyJoe]

What an amazing Thread Guys!

 

[Sibbeli]

What´s up Thule, have any new pics to show off? I´m in Sweden, and has a bunch of Fin x DR F1´s I´ll be growing and breeding this year, but the Finola´s odd Auto behaviour needs sorting out, I´ll try to cross it to an Photo and also to an real auto, and keep those lines going to whatever F that is needed to see what happens with the FinDR xPhoto line.. It would be awesome with a strain that flowers like the Finola but with alot more thc in it, and maybe atleast not loose its own size and budding power, but with a bit of luck letting thm grow bigger, could be the ultimate northern cashcropper..

 

[Sibbeli]

And the seeds comes from your home country, and possible from a guy you know, I guess so, as i think it his field you showed pic´s of, even if i can´t see them now, I only know of one guy giving the finola such a big interest, a real good guy too both too!

 

[Apomixis]

Bumped.

 

[Thule]

And the seeds comes from your home country, and possible from a guy you know, I guess so, as i think it his field you showed pic´s of, even if i can´t see them now, I only know of one guy giving the finola such a big interest, a real good guy too both too!

Hejsan svejsan i blåbärsskogen! Sorry for the late reply, it's been an eventful year with snutar.

I know that particular Diesel ryder line very well, the best you can ask for ime. Those fin314 hybrids are interesting in terms of growth characteristics and cbd phenotypes. If you need any advice on how the autoflower trait might play out I can share my experiences. The plants certainly won't breed true for the autoflower trait since the genes in finola are different to lowryders..

There is a Peruvian autoflower strain that seems to have autoflower genes more similar to the Lowryder gene pool. If it didn't exist I would find the story of a "Mexican ruderalis" far more unlikely. You asked for pictures so here are some old shots from last summer:



They really don't get much bigger than this and the finished buds don't swell, ever. If they were bred at all, it was for producing seeds and that they do. 90 days from seed to harvest, no matter if 12/12 or 24/0 so truly day-neutral.

 

[SapoVerde]

Hey Thule, do you know what happens if someone crosses a Auto x Non Auto F1-F3 with another Auto x Non Auto? Would the count reset itself this being a new F1 hybrid, and would we start again with 0% autoflowering plants in the first generation? Or would the result be the same as if one would just inbreed one of the Autos x Non Autos ?

 

[Thule]

Hey Thule, do you know what happens if someone crosses a Auto x Non Auto F1-F3 with another Auto x Non Auto? Would the count reset itself this being a new F1 hybrid, and would we start again with 0% autoflowering plants in the first generation? Or would the result be the same as if one would just inbreed one of the Autos x Non Autos ?

The non-autoflowering parent won't affect the outcome very much, the autoflower % should be pretty much the same regardless of the strain.

 

[Thule]

Peru has two phenotypes, the bushy pheno seen above that tops itself at a certain internode, and the christmas tree phenotype.



Both phenos at ~45 days flo

 

[SapoVerde]

The non-autoflowering parent won't affect the outcome very much, the autoflower % should be pretty much the same regardless of the strain.

Sorry I failed to phrase my question right. What I'm interested in knowing, is if you can cut corners in autoflower breeding if the goal is a hybrid plant.

Say you want to create a fully autoflowering Colombian Gold x Oldtimers Haze hybrid, using your Peruvian Autoflower to introduce the day-neutral genes, just as an thought experiment.

The tedious way would be to first cross your Peruvian to the Colombian Gold, work this hybrid to F4-F5, repeat the same with OTH and then cross these two lines together. What I am asking is, what would happen if one would take two half done autoflowering lines, and cross these at F1 or F2 together, to work these then to full autoflowering. The reason being, that this way one could avoid having to do the same work twice, saving 2-3 grows (F3-F4 or F5 for one line) to reach the same goal. That is, if crossing two half done lines doesn't makes one have to start at zero autoflowering again.

Of course one could also reach the same goal by just making the Colombian Gold x OTH hybrid first, and then work this into autoflowering. But I already came once in the situation where F1 or F2 Autos x Non Autos were the only option forward, and im quite curious about this.


Your Peruvian Autoflowers look really nice, very interesting. Did you have them analyzed? How do they smell and smoke?

About the whole subtropical ruderalis thing. I'm sceptical about the mexican ruderalis because of the source of that claim. But southamerican ruderalis I can imagine. Imho the southamerican "altiplanos" play the key role in this mystery. The environment applies the right selective pressure, everything not done within a very narrow time frame dies. If you bring a quantity of plants having recessive day-neutral genes there, the autoflowering ones are the only able to propagate, if they're lucky, very few spots support plant growth at all. Anyway this is how I can imagine ruderalis type plants despite a normal photoperiod. But who knows, the Peruvian Autoflower might as well have come from Chile or Argentina.

 

[Thule]

Sorry I failed to phrase my question right. What I'm interested in knowing, is if you can cut corners in autoflower breeding if the goal is a hybrid plant.

My bad, I should have been more specific what I meant. In essense the autoflowering genes would combine just the same whether or not it's a polyhybrid, it's the amount of autoflower genes that determines the outcome. You'll end up with roughly one plant out of four autoflowering if you cross two straight f1 hybrids, both with an af parent.

Working with slow flowering F2s can be a pain it the ass though, Imagine waiting 40 days for the plants to sex, then only 25% starts actually autoflowering. Now if you have to do this with two strains at the same time you're in for a culling spree. So best cross at the f1 stage already if your plan is to make a polyhybrid.

Peru doesn't really have any smell or trich coverage to write home about but does produce some THC according to my nervous system. That's all the testing I've done, it does give an easy going high but it's the hybrids where it gets interesting.

The dwarfism gene seems resessive as well, add 25% of Ethiopian Highland and everything gets amped.



Only one plant out of four was a dwarf and I got to work up the autoflower percentage from 50% instead of 25. I've since crossed this stuff with Mextiza.

 

[Thule]

You're spot on with the Altiplano theory. If weed was to grow at such a high altitude in 12/12 lighting they would have to be autoflowering.

Don't really know much about Lowryder but something similar to Peru would have been a good starting point. All you have to do is cross with an indica dominant strain that sexes in 20 days and you'll start seeing autoflowering at 20-30 days as opposed to 37-40 days in Peru. That's where the non autoflowering side does matter, tropical sativas can be harder to tame than hybrids.

 

[Halonium]

Bumping an Old thread, but an interesting one.

This summer I grew a few of Peru x Ethiopian Highland x Peru seeds and out of the 5 seeds I got two autoflowering plants (male and female) and 2 of the bushy pheno that seem to be early or 12/12 flowering. The other had not even preflowered at the end of july, and the other had only a few preflowers.

The seedlings were planted outside beginning of june (2 weeks after sprouting), and the autoflowering female started flowering at the end of june. It is by far the largest of them all, around 1,5m tall. There is visible resin production and it seems like the flowers will fatten up nicely, so the Ethiopian genes do over ride the peruvian ones in the flowering department.

The male flowers were vaporised and did produce quite noticeable effects, but short lived ones (~1,5h). I have high hopes for the female! To be honest, I quite enjoyed the effects! No body load, pure sativa high and no crash afterwards. And the best part, no anxiety and next day fogginess/hangover.

I believe the peruvian to be a valuable tool for outdoor breeding in northern areas.