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i'm glad to see this thread again.....thanks again, stitch - if you see this...
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Split from : The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles!
Mr. Blast: We'll get this thing figured out sooner or later
Mr. Blast: We'll get this thing figured out sooner or later
Like I said in a pm, I think your nutrient solution is probably too strong and you should reduce your nitrogen to maybe 200 ppm or less . Its odd that your K is so high at over 400 ppm. Usually plants require about an equal ratio of potassium to nitrogen. 1:1 There are some exceptions like carnations,cyclamen, and tomatoes. You are probably raising your electrical conductivity (ec) and total ppm for no real reason with the extra k. One other thing I saw was your manganese might be high. You stated your N , if I remember right, was 267 ppm. You also told me manganese was .05% and N was 2% in the fertilizer. You can figure manganese ppm by doing a simple equation. .05/2=.025 .025x267=6.68 ppm Mn That would be alot especially if your ph was too low. Usual range is .5 to maybe 2 ppm. When in doubt, don't feed and use plain water.
Mr. Blast: We'll get this thing figured out sooner or later
Like I said in a pm, I think your nutrient solution is probably too strong and you should reduce your nitrogen to maybe 200 ppm or less . Its odd that your K is so high at over 400 ppm. Usually plants require about an equal ratio of potassium to nitrogen. 1:1 There are some exceptions like carnations,cyclamen, and tomatoes. You are probably raising your electrical conductivity (ec) and total ppm for no real reason with the extra k. One other thing I saw was your manganese might be high. You stated your N , if I remember right, was 267 ppm. You also told me manganese was .05% and N was 2% in the fertilizer. You can figure manganese ppm by doing a simple equation. .05/2=.025 .025x267=6.68 ppm Mn That would be alot especially if your ph was too low. Usual range is .5 to maybe 2 ppm. When in doubt, don't feed and use plain water.
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i dont see how it could be my nutrient water because only the one plant has this problem while my other plant (which is fed the same water) is healthy, like I said I think its pH caused by the rock-wool in the bottom of the pot which makes more sense because the plant with the problem has lots of roots in the bottom of the pot while the other has almost no roots in the bottom.
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no im using tap water, and the tap around here has been at 6.0 for around 5 years
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I dont think its the nutrient soultion that is the problem because my nutrients are pH buffered and contain pH buffers and the fact that iv never had a pH problem for the 6 years that iv been growing
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iv put my plant into a tray with water so that it allows the rock-wool layer to soak and maybe take care of this problem.
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also I just took a much better look and noticed that the spots are mainly around the leaf veins, if i cant fix this do you guys think that it will die and not finish flowering?
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Heya puff good to see you again 
I could possibly use that photo, its a good photo i will save it with your name on the photo and if i use it you will get the contributer of the picture of course
Hey danbo im glad you like it
Iread everyones post, never ignore someone who is always in need of help!
mr blast i got the info, is there any way you can send me pictures of the plants>? you may post them here if you like
coco may be a problem here, alot of times people have problems with coco, im not real familar with coco, im still earning that myself but i know someone who knows alot about coco and will direct him to this thread if you dont have ap htester how are you testing ph and your ppms?
blazeofglory is the person who im talking about,
but can you still post pictures here?
I could possibly use that photo, its a good photo i will save it with your name on the photo and if i use it you will get the contributer of the picture of course
Hey danbo im glad you like it
Iread everyones post, never ignore someone who is always in need of help!
mr blast i got the info, is there any way you can send me pictures of the plants>? you may post them here if you like
coco may be a problem here, alot of times people have problems with coco, im not real familar with coco, im still earning that myself but i know someone who knows alot about coco and will direct him to this thread
if you dont have ap htester how are you testing ph and your ppms?blazeofglory is the person who im talking about,
but can you still post pictures here?
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iv got a tds tster but never got a pH tester, I found out my tap water pH from the local hydro shop.
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Im going to the store in the next few days to get some more nutrients so while im there im going to pickup some of the cheap pH testing stuff so that ill be able to see the range im in.
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man, you just took some shop guy's word for it and wrote it off as a done deal?
if i could only use 1 meter between tds and ph.. it would be ph 10 times outta 10.. just wanted to pass that opinion on to you mr. blast...
good luck
if i could only use 1 meter between tds and ph.. it would be ph 10 times outta 10.. just wanted to pass that opinion on to you mr. blast...
good luck
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I watched him test it
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all 5 years its been at 6.0?
I'm with lorax on that one..I wouldn't even consider neutral hydro type mediums without knowing exactly what that pH is..
Seems wreckless for such a cheap item..buffered nutes or not..it is the most important piece of test equipment every grower should have..
I bet it would be answering questions right now..
Not ripping, but your not gonna find too many growers here, besides the newbs and some ghetto grows..
that don't have a pH meter or some way to measure pH.. just my
6 years of no problems..that's a good run..I still wanna make two consecutive runs with no problems..
Did you just switch to Flora Nova & Floralicious Plus..they are newer products..I think F plus is brand new..
Nova has been around for at least a year..true Nova is buffered however..GH makes this statement..
To maximize plant growth, the pH of your nutrients should be slightly acidic. Experienced growers consider the ideal pH for most crops to fall between 5.5 and 6.5. Users of General Hydroponics nutrient products generally do not experience problems maintaining the proper pH range because our formulas are pH buffered. However, some important exceptions do exist. Acid content can reach unacceptable levels when nutrient solutions are mixed with poor quality water, or when pH unstable media – such as rock wool or gravel products – are used, or when high plant growth rates destabilize the nutrient mix due to rapid nutrient absorption by the crop.
Just info man..trying to help..
Seems wreckless for such a cheap item..buffered nutes or not..it is the most important piece of test equipment every grower should have..
I bet it would be answering questions right now..
Not ripping, but your not gonna find too many growers here, besides the newbs and some ghetto grows..
that don't have a pH meter or some way to measure pH.. just my
6 years of no problems..that's a good run..I still wanna make two consecutive runs with no problems..
Did you just switch to Flora Nova & Floralicious Plus..they are newer products..I think F plus is brand new..
Nova has been around for at least a year..true Nova is buffered however..GH makes this statement..
To maximize plant growth, the pH of your nutrients should be slightly acidic. Experienced growers consider the ideal pH for most crops to fall between 5.5 and 6.5. Users of General Hydroponics nutrient products generally do not experience problems maintaining the proper pH range because our formulas are pH buffered. However, some important exceptions do exist. Acid content can reach unacceptable levels when nutrient solutions are mixed with poor quality water, or when pH unstable media – such as rock wool or gravel products – are used, or when high plant growth rates destabilize the nutrient mix due to rapid nutrient absorption by the crop.
Just info man..trying to help..
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im thinking about getting this thing
Mr. Blast
Mr. Blast
Things to look for in a ph meter: can the probes testing tip be replaced, temperature compensation, and can it be calibrated to a known ph standard. I may be wrong but that meter you are considering looks to be more on the disposable side which would make it cheaper in cost. Probably better and easier than ph strips I guess.
Mr. Blast
Things to look for in a ph meter: can the probes testing tip be replaced, temperature compensation, and can it be calibrated to a known ph standard. I may be wrong but that meter you are considering looks to be more on the disposable side which would make it cheaper in cost. Probably better and easier than ph strips I guess.
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how about this
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