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Split from : The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles!

10k

burnt out og'er
Veteran
the part about ph some of it came from the growfaqs the sodium blah blah stuff

MnStitch,
If anyone would have brought to my attention any mention of sodium bicarbonate as a hydro ph up being published anywhere in the growfaqs, I personally would have edited that BAD GROW ADVICE out of whatever faq...Immediatly !

So why is it still in this guide MnStitch ?
Its been a week already, and its still not corrected, whats the problem ?

:drum:

yes canabis does yellow
wtf ?
:confused:
 
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bostrom155

Active member
Hi all,
I have 5 Space Queens, they are 2 weeks old, lower small leaves started to yellow a few days ago, so I watered with 10ml of PBP G and 1/4 tea of Epsom, now the new growth is looking bad.
(This is not the plant - just an example.)


Its similar to this pic EXCEPT its the pale green in the middle of the leaf and normal on the edges. All 5 have it on the top growth, and second set of leaves as well, couple need to be transplanted.
I'm in Peat, lime and perlite.
Temps mid 70's
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
ok i removed it
sorry i got side tracked, i have been really ill lately with the flu and my boyfriend got it then my son and then my mother so we all have been sick
im better now just little shakey still

anyways yes the sodium bacarbanate i did get from the growfaqs i remember which one too let me see if i can find it or if it was picked up from the cache


rofl sorry i didnt mean cannabis "does" yellow lol
cannabis tends to yellow at the end is what i wanted to say more rather

from either flushing or not enough of nitrogen








well if its new growth and comming from the points you listed sounds like its common light green color the cannabis have on new growing leaves
it gets a darker green when the leaves get a bit older and grow more

but i need more information on your garden like how big are the plants what size container are they in what ph is your soil run off
 
Last edited:

bostrom155

Active member
Thanks Stitch,
They are in 32oz cups, tranplanting a few today and the are about 4 inches with 4 node sets. I'll have the run off Ph here soon. I noticed my 60 day veg SQ are doing the same thing.


Run off PH is 6.6-6.8, so I think it's good thier, just to clarify, run off is the water I catch out of the bottome after watering.
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
ya they shouldnt be in kept in those cups so long you shouldh ave transplanted sooner

run off is fine
and yup thats how you get the run off :)


Oh 10k i found in the growfaqs where it stated sodium bacarbinate

i thought i remembered that from the faqs itself so this wasnt my fault :confused:

honest mistake
http://growfaq.medicalgarden.org/growfaq/1538.htm


Raising hydroponic pH : (to make it more alkaline)

In hydroponics: use potassium silicate, provides silicon at an effective doseage.
In bioponics/hydro-organics: add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.
 

Tokabowl

Active member
Hey Stitch, great post man, a lot of useful info thanks v.much :yes:
Just a little Q tho:


MynameStitch said:
Raising hydroponic pH : (to make it more alkaline)
...
In bioponics/hydro-organics: add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.

Doesn't lime (fruit) take the pH down, make it more acidic?
 

10k

burnt out og'er
Veteran
tokabowl,
stitch meant the mineral (not the fruit) to raise pH in organic hydro or soil, lime as in hydrated lime or dolomite lime, although for chem hydro something like potassium hydroxide (the most common hydroponics pH up chem) or potassium silicate would do the job just fine.

MnStitch,
I see that faq MnStitch, and as soon as Overgrow comes back (if it ever does) that will be the first faq needing an edit. Sodium bicarb can have nasty effects on plants similar to what you'd see using water softener water, thanks for taking that out.

Since you got the info from the faqs though, why didnt you include nitric acid and phosphoric acid for hydro pH down chems?
Lowering hydroponic pH : (to make it more acidic)
In hydroponics: use nitric acid during vegetative; phosphoric acid during flowering.
Anyway, please add these to the list since you currently have nothing at all spelled out for hydro pH lowering.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
i did orginally but then i got chewed out by a few members stating that the faqs was all wrong

this was when i very first started putting this all together.........

so ill go ahead and add them then
 

ft100

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i saw some spotting on a leaf and knew who to come see right away. this thread has helped me on more then one occasion now. thank you stitch. havent talked to you in a bit. hope everything is going good old friend.

fairytales100
 

bostrom155

Active member
bostrom155 said:
Hi all,
I have 5 Space Queens, they are 2 weeks old, lower small leaves started to yellow a few days ago, so I watered with 10ml of PBP G and 1/4 tea of Epsom, now the new growth is looking bad.
(This is not the plant - just an example.)


Its similar to this pic EXCEPT its the pale green in the middle of the leaf and normal on the edges. All 5 have it on the top growth, and second set of leaves as well, couple need to be transplanted.
I'm in Peat, lime and perlite.
Temps mid 70's

Stitch this is the actual pic
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
actual picture to what?

everyone who contributed to my guide pictures ect please pm me i need your permission for a few things

if not then i will have to get new pictures but otherwise everyone who contributed please pm me asap!
 

Pablo

Member
As you can see i don't post!!
But had too here .

Try not to hand power to the wrong peeps . Look how Bush & Blair (Blush) behave ?

In their eyes they are right , EVERYONE else is wrong .

stitch , what a great job , RESPECT .

MODS ; take a chill pill dude , It hurts when your work gets dissed . How do you feel when your slated ?

And yes OG was full of know-alls . Snobs !!!! But still an informative site .

And to laugh........well damn rude imo . But then who am i ...Eh!!

My apprentice at work would be devestated if i slagged his work , so please learn to Tolerate others .

I'm glad this seems to be settling down now .

Maybe a few pics of light pollution damage if any of you camara buffs have been unlucky enough to have .

PEACE & LOVE
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
:)


Hey pablo or anyone else do you guys have some pics
or anyone else wanting to contirbute your name will be as the contributer, im looking for new pics for nitrogen, phosphotus, magnseium, bud rot, white flies, and there larva

good pics on nute burn, need a few of those

so anyone wanting to contribute please post the picture here :)
 
2

20kw dreams

HI STITCH-E-POO!! What's this about drama? I didn't read back far enough I guess. Fuck that though... Hows you doin?

Bostrom -Yes, looks like N def to me, but at a good time for it!

I wish I hadn't lost my camera, and erased all the pics on my comp, or I could have covered N def, Mg def, Bud Rot, Fun-guy gnats, lockout, transplant shock, underwatering, overwatering, Ca def, ph imbalance.....and that's just today! lol... Seriously, though, I could literally take pics rigth now of all that stuff...exept the transplant shock, that's gone. Basically, the translant shock led to everything, and I have a few soil plants w/ different problems, and the budrot was from the last run of super densies.

Anyways, wanted to get your and anybody's else opinions stitch. I was wondering which of these to use. I am giving organic soil another shot, and had these 2 mixes to choose from. These N-P-K values are both 1T powdered Fox Farm nutrients, w/ 2T Kelp meal. Values are stated as approximate N-P-C-Ca-Mg

"Bulb" Formula - 5-8.2-10-10-4.5
"Fruit & Flower" Formula - 7-8.2-8-10-1.85

I was thinking that the "Bulb" formula looked better, exept that the Mg was so high. Both have a high Ca level, but nothing horrible, seeing as I use RO water...and the "Fruit and Flower" seemed a little higher in. I will probably be adding a PK boost in mid flower though, so I was thinking the extra girth from that would make use of that extra N.

Really, I guess the big Q is: Is that Mg in the bulb formula gonna be a problem? That shit is ridiculously high, but will it cause a Ca lockout, or something worse?

And last, but definately not least, an addition to your guide, if I may. 10k's talk of N acid and P acid made me think of it.

Sometimes, spotting problems may be difficult, especially for someone w/ out an experienced eye. One such problem can be trying to tell the difference between a Ca def, Potassium def, and nutrient burn. All can show up as "burnt" edges and spotting on leaves, often only differentiated by the patters or colors of the spotting, which someone w/out experience would never know. This is especially true seeing as different levels of other nutrients, ph, atmospheric conditions, as well as the strain, all can have an effect on how a problem may present itself visually.

One way to help eliminate possibilities is by watching your ph. The ideal ph, anywhere from 5.2 to 6.8 depending on who you ask, is in these ranges because it is a balance of the individual nutrient ph's. The ones we can easly use for this, are generally N,P,K, and sometime Ca, at least that I am aware of. N, P, and Iron(Fe)are usually found as acid, K and Ca as Alkiline, Ca not being terribly strong. I'm honestly not sure how much of a role other other icronutrients play.

Here's an example: You have some yellowing on your yellow leaves, which slightly runs up the viens(intervienial chlorosis), but pretty much yellows evenly, so you are not sure if it is an N or Mg def. You check the ph, and your ph is actually going down ever so slightly. Now, soluble N is an acid, or at least in all nutrients which I am aware of. Take the N out of a solution in veg, and your ph will rise. This happens because the N is completing w/ the base K for the ph balance. Anyways, because your ph is going down, it is probably a good guess that your def is most likely Mg since your high N is acting as an acidifier in your solution.

While this may not work to identify any single problem, it can hel you eliminate possibilities, and help you identify your problems earlier.

Honestly, I just got tired of writing. I could have made it more in depth, or edited it, but my computer is in a place where I have to stand to use it.

Add that shit to your guide somewhere. If you sell it for a cool mill, then I want 50%..lol

Peace
 

senseless

Active member
damn stitch i love your guide. best ever period.

heres some pics of some some nutreint defficient plants. i forgot what you told me they were. your more than welcome to use them if u want.






send me a pm too.
 
2

20kw dreams

Where'd you go stitch? I need to edit that post to explain the chemistry behind it, but I don't know if there is a point
 

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