What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Spider mites week 6 of flower....

Guy Brush

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have used Phytoseiulus persimilis predatory mites after I've knocked down the population with Evergreen Pyrethrum. Real pyrethrum has a half life of 3 days. It will not be in your end product. It's the only control method I've found that actually worked in my greenhouse.

  • Certified organic barns, dairies, and poultry houses.
  • OMRI listed for organic production

If the trichomes get in contact then it will be in the end product, most probably. Most pyrethrum products are on plant oil base and this will mess with the resin. Even without oil you certainly don't know how this reacts with resin. The info on the bottles are only for vegetables, not for resin producing plants.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If the trichomes get in contact then it will be in the end product, most probably. Most pyrethrum products are on plant oil base and this will mess with the resin. Even without oil you certainly don't know how this reacts with resin. The info on the bottles are only for vegetables, not for resin producing plants.
It's not supposed to be sprayed on the plants. I never use it however if one is going to lose plants it's better than losing them.
 
Last edited:

kordo

Active member
1714648757859.png
+ patience
:bump:
 

Timj

Well-known member
Spider mites hate high humidity. As a prevention you could keep it high during vegetation cycle.
The product I listed and used is an all natural water soluble one. It is very expensive compared to the lab created ones that are oil based. As far as high humidity goes. I can only speak of the experiences I've had with my few run-ins with spider mites. In my green house they were a much larger problem in the high humidity in the late summer in NY state. I have had them inside once. I believe it was because I used some bamboo supports that were near my greenhouse and later found out they overwinter in brambles and or hollow bamboo. They also over winter in the bark chips I use as a floor surface in my greenhouse.
 

Timj

Well-known member
This study shows that at least the common two spotted spider mite "Tetranychus urticae" that I dealt with cannot be controlled by high humidity alone. It only delays them hatching and slows the adults down a bit.


This being said. There are also studies showing that very low humidity increases their populations faster and they live longer. It seems as though spider mites are among the arachnids hardest to control. We certainly cannot eliminate them completely.

Most growers are not even aware they are infested until they see lots of stipulated leaves or webbing. I check my plants under a digital microscope on a regular basis now. Once bitten,twice shy.
 

Dime

Well-known member
I would burn the plants and concern myself on cleaning the grow for the new startup ,start and stick with a maintenance plan and not getting them again.Use seeds unless you are 100% sure any clones you get are pest free ,never introduce any plants from garden centers and start a maintenance schedule on new plants even if they are mite free because the eggs will be all over the place and haunt you,change clothes and a shower before entering grow is also a good idea if you have been amongst outdoor plants.The eggs seem to stay dormant and they "sense" this until new plants are grown then hatch and you will go through it again.
 

funkyhorse

Well-known member
Blondie, whats is your RH?
If it is over 60% you can try white soap. Soap bar for washing clothes without scent
It kills the spiders on contact and it will help you arrive to the end of flower, it will keep spiders at bay
The dose for preparation is 10 grams per liter. It is a cheap solution. Dilute 50 grams on 5 lts water at once and keep it. You will have enough for all your grow

In flower you can try https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cypermethrin as well
It degrades fast it is safe to use and is effective
I dont know what product timj is proposing but it is based on pyrethrins and they are effective and safe. It is a natural product

If it is not too bad use soap, if it is very bad use cypermethrin

I believe solutions depend on the local environment and how bad the pest is.
It is not one solution for all. The solutions in a humid environment are different from a desertic one
 

blondie

Well-known member
I have humidity usually around 60% . All plants from seed. Not sure how they arrived. All plants very healthy, strong. I was looking forward to a good solid harvest. I am going to shut down the grow room for the summer and pick up again early October.

Im concerned now mites are in my recycling bin. I put a male in there for a bit and after a short spell had cause to remove from the bin. webbing appeared on the dead male after I pulled it from the bin. Maybe before.

So far I’ve cut a few top branches where the infestation was heavy. Dipped in h2o2 hoping to kill eggs and live mites.

Leaving the soil bin until October... will mites/eggs survive this? Can the soil even become infested?
 

FletchF.Fletch

Well-known member
420club
Yes they will remain dormant in untreated soil. Nature has that built-in survival mechanism. They would be there for a year. Just like they return after each Winter.

You could Solarize the soil, bin and all this Summer by wrapping them in clear plastic and baking them in the Sun for 4-6 weeks. New soil and pots is less work though.
 

blondie

Well-known member
I’m very tempted to try this. @Timj .. this is what you used? Spray entire plant, buds included? I don’t see how I can avoid buds on that plant. I’m on the fence. That is such a nice plant. Tempting....

Looks like amazon won’t link here. But this one works.

 

Timj

Well-known member
I’m very tempted to try this. @Timj .. this is what you used? Spray entire plant, buds included? I don’t see how I can avoid buds on that plant. I’m on the fence. That is such a nice plant. Tempting....

Looks like amazon won’t link here. But this one works.

Yes, you can spray the entire plant buds and all. I used a oscillating fan on high to dry the plants off after application. I believe the 1/2 life is 3 days. My last application was a few weeks prior to harvest. But, I only used it to knock down the population and it does that well. I used predatory mites to control the spider mites until harvest. I did need to do a bud wash to clean the predatory mites off the buds. Keep your pets away from the area your spraying. My dog had an allergic reaction and his hair stood straight up on his back. One other thing. Spray right before lights off as it can burn your pistils.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
Things that can be used -

Neem oil - must be mixed fresh since 12 hour half life once it hits water. Must spray bottoms of every leaf or dunk no matter what is used.

Isopropyl/water 50/50

Venerate

Prevasyn - mixed with others. This is crazy hot pepper mix, which drives them crazy running around so more likely to get soaked with other chemicals

Do not think any kill eggs. 20 day life span. 2-5 days for eggs to hatch at 80F. If a room is left dark and/or cold they can hibernate.

Suggested to rotate products to prevent immunity. Snype suggested every 3 days for 3 weeks.

In flower, all the spraying will cause bud rot. The room will not smell of terpenes and produce next to no resin if heavy infestation.
I like ISO spray but be careful to keep it off the roots. I'm usually pretty careful and try not to get much on the soil but last time I got careless. It wasn't so much that it got on the soil but that I didn't realize the clones were in root riot plugs and the spray went down the stem and the root riot absorbed the alcohol like a sponge. I didn't realize why my clones were dying until I was flushing the crap out of the mini pots and saw the plugs.

Once I noticed I flushed the sponges with water by squeezing them and soaking water repeatedly and then planted them in fresh soil. One was pretty much dead when I replanted it and the other one is stunted and hasn't grown since. Just a cautionary tale of my screw up.
 

Chi13

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
I'm a bit late to the spider mite party, 45 years in fact. I've never had them until this grow.

I grow organic and never spray anything in flower including pyrethrum, neem or even diamatacious earth. I had a pretty bad infestation. I tackled in two ways. First I gave the plants a bath. Filled the bath half full and swished the plant around in the bath. Just bent it over basically. This done over a few days significantly reduced numbers. I have also read of people giving their plant a hose but this wasn't an option. It's messy but worked.

I then hit them with predators, phytoseiulus persimilis, which I bought 2000 of them. They are slowly increasing numbers and everything is under control. The downside of these is that work best at high humidity and temperature. So if you have a dry environment they probably won't be anywhere near as efficient. I had a few days of under 50% humidity so hit them with a water spray a few times a day to increase the RH.

Mine were at various stages of flower, some over 8 weeks (they are long flowering sativas). I seem to have saved the crop though so glad I didn't just trash it.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
I'm a bit late to the spider mite party, 45 years in fact. I've never had them until this grow.

I grow organic and never spray anything in flower including pyrethrum, neem or even diamatacious earth. I had a pretty bad infestation. I tackled in two ways. First I gave the plants a bath. Filled the bath half full and swished the plant around in the bath. Just bent it over basically. This done over a few days significantly reduced numbers. I have also read of people giving their plant a hose but this wasn't an option. It's messy but worked.

I then hit them with predators, phytoseiulus persimilis, which I bought 2000 of them. They are slowly increasing numbers and everything is under control. The downside of these is that work best at high humidity and temperature. So if you have a dry environment they probably won't be anywhere near as efficient. I had a few days of under 50% humidity so hit them with a water spray a few times a day to increase the RH.

Mine were at various stages of flower, some over 8 weeks (they are long flowering sativas). I seem to have saved the crop though so glad I didn't just trash it.
I buy the predatory mite blend from Nature's Good Guys. It has a mix of predator mites. It's really dry here and the mix has always seemed to work.
 

Chi13

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
I buy the predatory mite blend from Nature's Good Guys. It has a mix of predator mites. It's really dry here and the mix has always seemed to work.
That sounds like a great idea. I don' think there's anything like that available where I live though.
So glad I don't have russet mites. Spider mites are bad enough. My other biggest pest fear is thrip, so far so good.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top