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Spider mites week 6 of flower....

blondie

Well-known member
I’m infested pretty good. I don’t want to spray anything but have captain jacks dead bug brew available.

Any recommendations??

Other idea is this. Anyone try it? Green cleaner and is mostly soybean.

 

Jahaze

subiendo el humo
Veteran
Sorry to hear about the mites that deep into flower. Having been right where you are my advice is if you took clones of the plants just shut down the grow and start over with the clones. If you didn't take clone and don't want to lose the plant cut back retaining about a 1/3 of the lower plant provided it has healthier leaves, spray, and reveg. If you were at the tail end of the flowering stage you might have been able to salvage some smokable bud but this is a battle you will lose not to mention the quality of the flower will suffer and worse yet you'll consume some toxic stuff. No one want to lose all that work but there it is. You will have to clean everything out and spray your vegging plants and make sure there isn't even one of those bastards alive. It will take several cleanings, to make sure you are rid of them. We all go through it but hopefully you learn to keep a super clean environment and implement a preventative schedule to spray and periodically inspect the plants before you flip them to flower. Good luck and I really wish I had better news for you.
 

FletchF.Fletch

Well-known member
420club
Hey @blondie , sorry to hear that bro.

This far into flower, spraying can be problematic. Even organic products can damage the Pistils. Captain Jack's will burn the hairs of the buds; best not to use it after week 2 or 3 of flower. I haven't used the Green Cleaner. It may be the thing to use. Biological controls like Lacewing larvae, predatory mites, and other good bugs might help, but the wait time for delivery could allow things to get worse.

Defoliating to limit their access to leaves without resin to trap them can help slow their growth in numbers.

Hopefully more will chime in.
 

Boo

Cabana’s bitch
Veteran
there's no cutting corners with mite eradication...if your infestation is really bad at 6 weeks the only real option is to cut and burn and be sure to treat the tent and everything near your grow...you'll be smoking whatever you spray with...
 

blondie

Well-known member
Thanks everyone. I think chopping is I order. luckily only one plant in the main tent is heavily infested. Other plants not yet so I might make a harvest by just removing the main offender. Pistils are turning brown already in most of the tent and I’m thinking nine weeks will do it. Hang on three weeks..

My other tent with one giant sativa seems doomed. That sucks as I really wanted to sample this bud. Not sure what to do with this thing.
 

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Timj

Well-known member
I have used Phytoseiulus persimilis predatory mites after I've knocked down the population with Evergreen Pyrethrum. Real pyrethrum has a half life of 3 days. It will not be in your end product. It's the only control method I've found that actually worked in my greenhouse.

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Marz

Stray Cat
New trend is citric acid. Take a look:


If you choose to throw away, you'll have to throw everything away, not just the highly infected plant but medium and other plants, including the ones in your external garden.

Good luck, you will find a way to deal with these pricks.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
If from outdoors, much better chances of treating the clones going forward. If they came in on clones, could be the borg, which is hundreds of generations exposed to everything known, and these are the survivors. I had them and gave up after 9 months and put two no pest strips in 5 x 5 tent shutup for 3 days, and were running around like crackheads. That is when I shut down, threw everything out, bug bombed 5 times a weeks apart, and did not have any plants for 4 months. Any new plants should go to quarantine area, preferably at another location.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Things that can be used -

Neem oil - must be mixed fresh since 12 hour half life once it hits water. Must spray bottoms of every leaf or dunk no matter what is used.

Isopropyl/water 50/50

Venerate

Prevasyn - mixed with others. This is crazy hot pepper mix, which drives them crazy running around so more likely to get soaked with other chemicals

Do not think any kill eggs. 20 day life span. 2-5 days for eggs to hatch at 80F. If a room is left dark and/or cold they can hibernate.

Suggested to rotate products to prevent immunity. Snype suggested every 3 days for 3 weeks.

In flower, all the spraying will cause bud rot. The room will not smell of terpenes and produce next to no resin if heavy infestation.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Yes you add the De to water shake and sprsy
Never heard of that, only barrier on soil/coco. Would like to see microscopic view of it on leaves. Would think it would fall off bottoms once dry. Usually works by cutting them up. Is it also desiccant?
 

CocoNut 420

Well-known member
Before you take any drastic measures try a few drops of wetting agent or dish soap in water and spray a leaf then watch the effects?

If you try it you'll find it kills adults, it doesn't kill eggs you'll need something more for that but a wetting will give you breathing space.

I'd use citric acid and H202 for eggs but idk about using either of those in flower?
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
I’m infested pretty good. I don’t want to spray anything but have captain jacks dead bug brew available.

Any recommendations??

Other idea is this. Anyone try it? Green cleaner and is mostly soybean.

Worm tea/worm castings derived or other chitinase sources, an enzyme that dissolves chitin, which is what exoskeletons of arachnids like spidermites are made of, taken up through the root system.

From Jocelyn's Soil Booster, "Get Microbes Working for You: How Worm Castings Help Plants Combat Pests":

"Each worm casting contains a similar, but unique, microbial ecosystem including enzyme secretions. The chitinase enzyme produced by the worm's microbiome is especially important for protecting plants against insect pests. This is because chitinase degrades chitin, the main component in many insects' exo-skeleton.9 Jul 2022

Chitosan Part 1
Bio Minerals Technologies, Inc.

Chitosan, Chitin and Chitinase are a fascinating subject for investigation.
 
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Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
From reading what is below, you should get USB microscope to check bottom of leaves for live/dead/eggs. Between grows you should probably leave some leaves on floor for a day or 2 at a time and check for new live/eggs. Have heard nightmares about people that keep getting them over and over again in same area. They say is starving will go into diapause, so having some leaves around may attract them and prevent diapause.

Something I found on chat gpt regarding hibernation -

Spider mites typically don't hibernate in the same way that mammals do, but they can enter a state of dormancy or diapause to survive adverse environmental conditions. Diapause is a form of dormancy that allows certain organisms to survive unfavorable conditions such as extreme temperatures, drought, or food scarcity.
During diapause, spider mites may reduce their metabolic activity and reproduction, allowing them to survive until conditions become more favorable for growth and reproduction. For example, in colder climates, spider mites may enter diapause during the winter months when temperatures drop and food sources become scarce.
While in diapause, spider mites may seek sheltered locations such as under bark, in plant debris, or in other protected areas where they can conserve energy and avoid predators. Once conditions improve, such as with warmer temperatures and the availability of food, spider mites can emerge from diapause and resume their normal activities.
The ability of spider mites to enter diapause contributes to their resilience and ability to survive in various environments, making them challenging pests to control in agricultural settings.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Sorry to hear you got bugs. If you use a Doctor Doom bug bomb it will kill all the adults and get you through the flowering. Doc Doom is a pyrethrum spray that is safe for consumption after a few days. The pyrethrum comes from pyrethrum flowers and is a natural spray. You can get a can at any grow shop. It's the only thing I would use during flowering because it disappears after a few days. It works too.

 

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