Spider mites in Flowering

[Guest]

charbriled food

Browned and burnt food, especially burnt proteins (meat), contain some of the most mutagenic/carcinogenic compounds known.

I've used those strips with inconsistent results and when I do I seal the room up, hang em up and leave. They get stuck in a bag lights on (open system).

 

[Guest]

throw a doctor doom fogger in there and pray .......enough get whacked

 

[magoo420]

BOOGER......SEAL YOUR ROOM OFF WELL AND HIT IT HARD WITH CO2 FOR ABOUT 12 HOURS, IF YOUR LUCKY THIS WILL HELP AND NOT HARM YOUR FLOWERS

 

[kmk420kali]

Heh...

 

[professordank]

pyrethrum and smc are to good places to start. I would alrernate them with safersoap or others like it during veg to reduce spidermite tolerance of the chems. As far as the ones your harvesting soon, Just make sure you wash all the webs off with water after you harvest. any remaining mites migrate in search of a new home, i.e. your grow room, keep them from doing so. dry your shit as far away from your room as possible. trying using something sticky on the ends of your drying lines. this will trap them as they try to escape.

 

[Flowerman]

I dont know If you have found your answer. But if you use, predator mites..they call the type I'm buying for spidex, U use this in the area where your plants are, during darkness, and you have to add some beneficial nematodes in your soil to get rid of all new eggs.. If you use the tripex in two doses, with a day in between and yu add the nematodes in the soil, keeping it moist, the first time you add tripex.. then all your bug problems will be gone.. even in the very end of flowering..
ps:: GET YOURSELF A HEPA FILTER ON THE AIR COMING IN TO THE ROOM, THEN THIS WILL NEVER BE A PROBLEM AGAIN!!!

If they're in flowering, and they are out of control, using predator mites at this stage is useless. Because they don't breed well, when the lights are cut back. Though they are great for when you start out in veg. They also require higher humidity, in depending on what strain of smoke you are growing, increasing the humidity during flowering can cause mold, and other issues, even though spidermites slow down when the humidity is turned up. Trying to get the temps down just a few degrees will significantly slow them down as well, then using organicide, and with no pest strips will knock them out.

If you got them once, chances are you’ll eventually get them again, so stay prepared.

After the grow, fumigate then clean the area really well. I will say, spider mites build up an immune system to most things very quickly, one reason why I do like predators, but they have to be introduced very early, and in the vegging stage. Using a triple mix (Predators) is usually the best way to go, as they get all stages of the spidermites, and some do better in either higher or lower temps/humidity. Also if you ever use predators, don't use any type of insecticides, soaps, or anything after they are introduce, but using something like safer soap prior to the introduction is fine, as it evaporates pretty quickly.
As already stated, most of the time, you need to us several different combinations.

I did alot of different trials on mites in the last year, to see what works best, and it truly does fluctuate, depending on environment, flow of air, and what type of products you will use. And you really got to make sure you get rid of them, otherwise they do build up an immune system very quickly. But overall, I found using predator mites early in the grow, is the best and safest way to go. Most predator mites will die as well once the food runs out, but the Californicus predator does seem to be able to handle the dormant in between the grows well, and occasionally so does the Red Persimillis, but reintroducing them is the best.
Anyways, goodluck!

Here's a few pics of the borg, lol. And there might be a few predators in there, but nothing that could handly this encounter test.

 

[Betty's Boy]

Get some "Safer" fruit & vegetable insecticide...can be used right up to harvest. Completely safe for everyone. I used it on my bud's and I'm still here...Where do those little bugger's come from, I'm indoor's...?

 

[pezzy]

Heh...

Hey buddy nice tubes!! haha!


Use Azatrol!! http://www.pbigordon.com/professional/page.php?id=280

 

[Mr Celsius]

Why hasn't anyone mentioned floramite (sp?)? Spray in veg (last 21 days) then spray in beginning of flowering and at 2 weeks of flowering and I guarantee they wont be back... well, I guess they could in the last 2 weeks, but not very strong. Stuff kills them in every stage of life and eggs.

I was off my game and forgot to spray early in flowering and their back...

 

[kmk420kali]

Hey buddy nice tubes!! haha!


Use Azatrol!! http://www.pbigordon.com/professional/page.php?id=280

Ahhhh The Keeper of the Big Black Tube!!
Sup Peezy... This site is a ****ing wealth bro!! Suck it up--

 

[scifreak69]

great info for the beginer

 

[Guest]

It is called Dichlorvos. Totally harmless and they only cost 6 bucks.

I know this thread is old but dichlorvos is highly toxic but after years of dealing with mites I'd say they are the best solution when you are deeper into flower. If handled and used properly I'm fine with them. I had a friend with a large canopy woven into trellis netting and no way to spray anything. I used pyrethrin bombs once years ago and they almost destroyed my plants. I overloaded my friends room with strips and in 24 hours all the thrips, large population, were dead, and the mites were also gone quickly. Key, like others have said, is to seal off the room at lights off. I just let them hang, 6 in a 18 x 6 room, and stayed out of the room while they were in there. I removed the strips, waited a few days, then put them back in and sealed the room. The mites are gone. I used strips before and did not seal off the room and they were not effective.

I'm gonna correct what I posted on 7-31. Overload the room and seal it up and the strips work great.

Floramite is great stuff but would only use in veg or very early flower. Once two weeks into flower I would not spray anything. Floramite actually lasts 21 to 28 days.

I found Organicide to be virtually useless. Same with most of the other 'natural' remedies. The problem with predator mites is they will only thrive in high humidity enviros and they take awhile to establish. Outdoors that's what I'd use though...no sprays.

 

[East Valley]

this one seems to follow me around....


I should have said practically harmless, and totally safe when used correctly......meaning, dont eat the strips.