CaptJamesTKirk
Active member
arewhy said:
I on the other hand have several times that much just in seeds, let alone the time and work to grow and propagate.
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Spider Mite Information
- Thread starter southwind
- Start date
I on the other hand have several times that much just in seeds, let alone the time and work to grow and propagate.
^^^ Im with captain, if you could get 100 % guarantee mitekiller product that really kills adults & other stages and destroys eggs, then it is small price for mitefree growroom + I think that one bottle? last for an while... Just compare that 250 $ to the damage that mites do your yield and how much they slow your growth. Then, it really is CMEMORY if it really annihilate mites & all mite stages!!! <- anyone with me with that?
Take care everyone!!! (not mites
EDIT:
pico: What is the active integrient in that Floramite SC?
happyherb: Did that couple month break really get rid of them? Did you have ANY succesfull grows after that or was it summer then, when you started growing again in that room? The reason for that could be that the mites & eggs have shelfed (because there are no food/there is too cold for them) and after there is heat again + food they open up!!! If you are going to keep break, you should clean up your apartment/growingspace to the bone several times before putting any plants there!!!
Keep It Green & Growing But Don´t Forget The Smokin!
Peace Out Growers!
Take care everyone!!! (not mites
EDIT:
pico: What is the active integrient in that Floramite SC?
happyherb: Did that couple month break really get rid of them? Did you have ANY succesfull grows after that or was it summer then, when you started growing again in that room? The reason for that could be that the mites & eggs have shelfed (because there are no food/there is too cold for them) and after there is heat again + food they open up!!! If you are going to keep break, you should clean up your apartment/growingspace to the bone several times before putting any plants there!!!
Keep It Green & Growing But Don´t Forget The Smokin!
Peace Out Growers!
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Herbalistic- cleaned the room a few times had no plants in the house ...started growing b4 sumer(summer here now in oz) on my 3rd grow now...had them in there from the 1st crop up to now and they have gotten worse each crop even with a clean up each time and bombing and changing sprays on them????????
so no it didnt get rid of them but there not as bad as last sumer lol yes more that one year....this is the 3rd summer ive had them so over 2 years now.got them the 1st grow at this place....never had the displeasure of meeting the little FUCKERS b4.....i was gona move so i'll do it b4 next summer cause i have noticed there alot worse in the hot weather ...and well i hate this place anyway...and next door is onto me lol
HH.
so no it didnt get rid of them but there not as bad as last sumer lol yes more that one year....this is the 3rd summer ive had them so over 2 years now.got them the 1st grow at this place....never had the displeasure of meeting the little FUCKERS b4.....i was gona move so i'll do it b4 next summer cause i have noticed there alot worse in the hot weather ...and well i hate this place anyway...and next door is onto me lol
HH.
So you dont ever had the change to grow mitefree plants yet? I hope you dont get those ***%#¤"( in your new house, I really do!!! You should probably clean the whole house you are living... All tiny spots and surfaces included, like somebody said in the first page, they can go into your fuckin electric shit man, probably do, so its important to wipe everything with every poison you own! You should clean everything old that you move to the new house thorough or you find yourself with this new situation AGAIN!!!!!!
Have to go now, take care!!!
Keep It Green & Growing But Don´t Forget The Smokin!
Peace Out Growers!
Have to go now, take care!!!
Keep It Green & Growing But Don´t Forget The Smokin!
Peace Out Growers!
Herbalistic said:
I sure as hell am...that's why I use Avid and don't play with all those bullshit recipes that just slow em down or burn up your plants. I got a 1 ouce vial of it 2+ years ago and I've still got about half of it left after getting the little bastards 3 times from gifted cuts. One thorough spraying @ 15drops/gal and they are gone completely.
Reservoir Factoids:
1) 'pest strips' only work (somewhat) in small populations,and they're incredibly,wildly toxic.
(They'll kill plants in an unventilated room!)
2) Floramite SC,used correctly,is the only thing I've EVER,in twenty years, seen that works with a plant population over ten plants,and controls/eliminates mites completely.
No burning,no problems,no more fucking spider mites,or their fucking eggs.
Period.
1) 'pest strips' only work (somewhat) in small populations,and they're incredibly,wildly toxic.
(They'll kill plants in an unventilated room!)
2) Floramite SC,used correctly,is the only thing I've EVER,in twenty years, seen that works with a plant population over ten plants,and controls/eliminates mites completely.
No burning,no problems,no more fucking spider mites,or their fucking eggs.
Period.
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southwind... good info thanks for th thread. I have used neem and pyrethrin. I Think pyrethrin is better. I noticed the mites take longer to recover with pyrethrin.
Your advice on precautions is also good. I have my whole site cleaned and then in a moment of brain fade managed to introduce them all over again... and then I fought a rear guard battle with them trying to get to the finish line.
I think I dumped about 20% of my harvest which was just too far gone.. .basically I beat them back into two corners of the cab.
Next time I get mites I am just going to pull the grow. If the conditions are right for them they just breed like nothing I have seen before. I was spraying up to about 5 days before harvest so who knows how much of that shit I am sucking in now.
my local grow shops got some nice little mite bombs. I am going to get 2 and let them off. My next grow is going to start soon. I need some more white rhino man.... this last grow was a bit average for potency and no rhino
HappyHerb.... As for those No More Pest strips..... they are banned in many countries because of the chemicals in them... pretty toxic apparently so chances are you can't get them for that reason. You also might want to try growing during winter..... you got summer now right? so starting in a month or two and grow through the winter... your ambients will probably be low enough to keep them from either starting or getting a hold.
I grew 3 grows. 2 in summer and 1 in winter. Summer, winter, summer. Same room, in both summer grows I got mites but in the winter grow I did not. My yield in winter was much better too.
treb
Your advice on precautions is also good. I have my whole site cleaned and then in a moment of brain fade managed to introduce them all over again... and then I fought a rear guard battle with them trying to get to the finish line.
I think I dumped about 20% of my harvest which was just too far gone.. .basically I beat them back into two corners of the cab.
Next time I get mites I am just going to pull the grow. If the conditions are right for them they just breed like nothing I have seen before. I was spraying up to about 5 days before harvest so who knows how much of that shit I am sucking in now.
my local grow shops got some nice little mite bombs. I am going to get 2 and let them off. My next grow is going to start soon. I need some more white rhino man.... this last grow was a bit average for potency and no rhino
HappyHerb.... As for those No More Pest strips..... they are banned in many countries because of the chemicals in them... pretty toxic apparently so chances are you can't get them for that reason. You also might want to try growing during winter..... you got summer now right? so starting in a month or two and grow through the winter... your ambients will probably be low enough to keep them from either starting or getting a hold.
I grew 3 grows. 2 in summer and 1 in winter. Summer, winter, summer. Same room, in both summer grows I got mites but in the winter grow I did not. My yield in winter was much better too.
treb
Well there you have it, Rez has seen the Floramite SC in action as well. I have tried everything and this shit is the real deal.
Avid I hear works well, but it is not registered for any food crops and it doesn't kill eggs.
Bifenazate is the active ingredient in Floramite SC.
Shit, $250 is a bargain for everything Floramite has done for me.
Avid I hear works well, but it is not registered for any food crops and it doesn't kill eggs.
Bifenazate is the active ingredient in Floramite SC.
Shit, $250 is a bargain for everything Floramite has done for me.
CaptJamesTKirk
Active member
treble said:
Lower temps inhibit mite growth.
High relitive humidity helps inhibit also.
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meduser180056
Active member
I had some two spotted spider mites that creeped into my room recently. I caught em real early though so I was lucky. I busted out 3 NPS strips since the room is 10x10 and I put em right next to the plants that they were getting established on. During lights out I turned off ventilation so RH would rise and the NPS would have a chance to work. I did this during every dark period for 2 weeks and I also did periodic sulfur burns cuz I was afraid of PM with the high RH and I think sulfur burns fuck mites up too. I also tried to keep the lights on temps below 70 which wasn't hard to do since it's winter.
This was awhile ago and so far so good. They haven't come back. Definetly approach em from multiple angles though. With my ventilation off during lights out the RH gets up to 90% and that really slows em down. Temps under 70 also really slow em down. NPS combined with a bad environment for em and they got knocked out.
I wanted to get some Floramite, but I couldn't find it locally and I didn't want to order it online. I'm hoping a local hydro shop will pick some up and break it down into smaller sizes so it's more affordable.
Anyhow that's my little spider mite war story. Only time I ever had to deal with em thankfully.
This was awhile ago and so far so good. They haven't come back. Definetly approach em from multiple angles though. With my ventilation off during lights out the RH gets up to 90% and that really slows em down. Temps under 70 also really slow em down. NPS combined with a bad environment for em and they got knocked out.
I wanted to get some Floramite, but I couldn't find it locally and I didn't want to order it online. I'm hoping a local hydro shop will pick some up and break it down into smaller sizes so it's more affordable.
Anyhow that's my little spider mite war story. Only time I ever had to deal with em thankfully.
CaptJamesTKirk
Active member
I'll be looking for a replacment for NPS without a doubt.
A NEW DEFENSE AGAINST SPIDER MITES
by Roger Bryan
All rosarians know that the two-spotted spider mite (tetranychus urticae) is a serious rose garden pest. This nearly invisible insect works on the bottoms of leaves sucking the chlorophyll out of them. Spider mites can take a healthy bush to a leafless stick in a matter of days unless thwarted by constant vigilance of plant health and condition, and by an intensive spray program using Avid to kill the adult mites and Hexygon to kill the eggs and larva, or Floramite to kill all life stages. The aforementioned chemicals all work as contact or, at best, translaminar (i.e., Avid) sprays so special care must be taken to spray the undersides of the leaves – Avid, being translaminar, does penetrate the leaf structure and will move from the top surface to the bottom, but it only kills the adults. The life cycle of the spider mite – from egg to adult – is five to 20 days depending on factors such as temperature and humidity. If you don’t get all life stages when you spray, the mites will probably return, and they may have become resistant to the spray(s). But help is on the way!
Bayer Environmental Science has just announced the registration of a new miticide, based on a proprietary new chemistry with a unique mode of activity. The name of this new miticide is Forbid 4F, and its active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils. That is, the MOA for Forbid 4F can be considered, for the sake of simplicity, to be MOA 6 as defined in papers elsewhere on this website, and in articles appearing in the Rose Society’s newsletter, Basal Breaks. This is great because MOA 6 has little or no potential for the development of resistance – an analogy[1] would be a flamethrower: you may miss some of your targets, but when they return they’ll be no less vulnerable to the flame.
Another feature of Forbid 4F is that, like Avid, it is translaminar. The active ingredient, spiromesifin, while not systemic (i.e., it does not move through the plant’s vascular system like, for example, Merit does), is absorbed by the plant’s leaves and will move from the tops of the leaves to the bottoms where the mites feed. This ability to move from the tops to bottoms of leaves significantly reduces the tedium of the spray process – while care should still be taken to cover the entire bush, rigorous spraying of the undersides of leaves should not be required. Moreover, according to Bayer, Forbid 4F controls mites at all life stages and offers an excellent residual of four to eight weeks for mites.
The label for Forbid 4F indicates its toxicity rating is CAUTION (be aware that the Avid label carries a WARNING designation). The label further specifies a usage rate of 2 to 4 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of spray. This equates to 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray – Bayer recommends, however, using the lower rate. Also, Forbid 4F may be tank mixed with sprayable fertilizers, insecticides and fungicides, although Bayer recommends a jar compatibility test. This product is available through Bayer distributors, such as Southern Ag ( http://www.southernag.com ) in Boone , NC . A very knowledgeable contact at Southern Ag is Mike Presnell (e-mail: [email protected] ). It will also be marketed by OHP (Olympic Horticulture Products) under the name Judo. Lastly, it’s available in 8 oz. bottles which cost $224.20 from Southern Ag. The cost per gallon of spray is about the same as Floramite, but remember this product is translaminar – Floramite is not. And, this product has a longer residual effect.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
and a Floromite note:Bifenazate or FLORAMITE (Uniroyal Chemical) is a selective miticide that provides control of various plant-feeding mites on greeenhouse, shadehouse, nursery, landscape and interior grown ornamentals. Floramite belongs to a new class of miticides, carbazate, that acts as an antagonist to the nervous system.
As a result of its safe profile to predacious mites, beneficial insects, animals and the environment, Floramite was fast-tracked for registration as a reduced risk pesticide by EPA. Tests conducted by the University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources (CTAHR) demonstrated that Floramite is effective against is effective against the citrus red mite on anthuriums for up to 21 days, confirming residual control
A NEW DEFENSE AGAINST SPIDER MITES
by Roger Bryan
All rosarians know that the two-spotted spider mite (tetranychus urticae) is a serious rose garden pest. This nearly invisible insect works on the bottoms of leaves sucking the chlorophyll out of them. Spider mites can take a healthy bush to a leafless stick in a matter of days unless thwarted by constant vigilance of plant health and condition, and by an intensive spray program using Avid to kill the adult mites and Hexygon to kill the eggs and larva, or Floramite to kill all life stages. The aforementioned chemicals all work as contact or, at best, translaminar (i.e., Avid) sprays so special care must be taken to spray the undersides of the leaves – Avid, being translaminar, does penetrate the leaf structure and will move from the top surface to the bottom, but it only kills the adults. The life cycle of the spider mite – from egg to adult – is five to 20 days depending on factors such as temperature and humidity. If you don’t get all life stages when you spray, the mites will probably return, and they may have become resistant to the spray(s). But help is on the way!
Bayer Environmental Science has just announced the registration of a new miticide, based on a proprietary new chemistry with a unique mode of activity. The name of this new miticide is Forbid 4F, and its active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils. That is, the MOA for Forbid 4F can be considered, for the sake of simplicity, to be MOA 6 as defined in papers elsewhere on this website, and in articles appearing in the Rose Society’s newsletter, Basal Breaks. This is great because MOA 6 has little or no potential for the development of resistance – an analogy[1] would be a flamethrower: you may miss some of your targets, but when they return they’ll be no less vulnerable to the flame.
Another feature of Forbid 4F is that, like Avid, it is translaminar. The active ingredient, spiromesifin, while not systemic (i.e., it does not move through the plant’s vascular system like, for example, Merit does), is absorbed by the plant’s leaves and will move from the tops of the leaves to the bottoms where the mites feed. This ability to move from the tops to bottoms of leaves significantly reduces the tedium of the spray process – while care should still be taken to cover the entire bush, rigorous spraying of the undersides of leaves should not be required. Moreover, according to Bayer, Forbid 4F controls mites at all life stages and offers an excellent residual of four to eight weeks for mites.
The label for Forbid 4F indicates its toxicity rating is CAUTION (be aware that the Avid label carries a WARNING designation). The label further specifies a usage rate of 2 to 4 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of spray. This equates to 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray – Bayer recommends, however, using the lower rate. Also, Forbid 4F may be tank mixed with sprayable fertilizers, insecticides and fungicides, although Bayer recommends a jar compatibility test. This product is available through Bayer distributors, such as Southern Ag ( http://www.southernag.com ) in Boone , NC . A very knowledgeable contact at Southern Ag is Mike Presnell (e-mail: [email protected] ). It will also be marketed by OHP (Olympic Horticulture Products) under the name Judo. Lastly, it’s available in 8 oz. bottles which cost $224.20 from Southern Ag. The cost per gallon of spray is about the same as Floramite, but remember this product is translaminar – Floramite is not. And, this product has a longer residual effect.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
and a Floromite note:Bifenazate or FLORAMITE (Uniroyal Chemical) is a selective miticide that provides control of various plant-feeding mites on greeenhouse, shadehouse, nursery, landscape and interior grown ornamentals. Floramite belongs to a new class of miticides, carbazate, that acts as an antagonist to the nervous system.
As a result of its safe profile to predacious mites, beneficial insects, animals and the environment, Floramite was fast-tracked for registration as a reduced risk pesticide by EPA. Tests conducted by the University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources (CTAHR) demonstrated that Floramite is effective against is effective against the citrus red mite on anthuriums for up to 21 days, confirming residual control
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REZDOG said:
So I shouldn't be taking shots of it?
They never get sprayed after flowering starts, so with a (up to) 28 day persistance, it's well broken down by the time they get chopped.
Stinkymutt
Active member
Great Info Guys! I agree with Rez though. I wouldnt want to spray my babezs with any chem. if they are to be harvested for smoke. South wind has given great info as well. Safer soap Is simply salts from Potasium whch I prefer to "hard" chems. Im reading on for more info on these bastards. I am now on a mission
Peace
mutt
Peace
mutt
CaptJamesTKirk
Active member
BATTLE STATIONS!
FIRE ALL PHASERS
ARM PHOTON TORPEADEOS
Glad you found the link helpful Stinky
FIRE ALL PHASERS
ARM PHOTON TORPEADEOS
Glad you found the link helpful Stinky
CaptJamesTKirk
Active member
Here a retailer in the US with free shipping
http://rosemania.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page9.html
http://rosemania.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page9.html
