Source of Calcium without Nitrogen.

[f-e]

Calcium nitrate and Epsom Salts (mag sulphate) in the same B tank? I don't think you can. The Calcium and Sulphate form gypsum. Calmag uses magnesium chloride.

Both can be tank mixed though. Generally the Epsom goes in first. Has a mix. Then the Calnit. With the suphates (and phosphates) well dispersed, The calcium interferes less.

 

[Roadblock]

Calcium nitrate and Epsom Salts (mag sulphate) in the same B tank? I don't think you can. The Calcium and Sulphate form gypsum. Calmag uses magnesium chloride.

Both can be tank mixed though. Generally the Epsom goes in first. Has a mix. Then the Calnit. With the suphates (and phosphates) well dispersed, The calcium interferes less.

Nah the B is CalNitrate 1000grams in 4ltrs stock solution, the A is Epsom salts, Micros and MKP., they get mixed into a 340 liter tank, A first then B.

I mix A+B 50/50 , I haven't played around with different ratios of the B which is CalNitrate, I will this run.

 

[f-e]

Make your own B to the same concentration. Theirs costs a lot more, and to get it you have to buy more A. In time you would have a lot of extra A sat about.

The B bottle probably tells you how much is in it. Run it by us if you want a math check.

You could obviously mix your own B however you liked, within reason. Mixing it like theirs make life easy while experimenting though. Like 10% more is so each if it's the same strength. No intermediary maths

 

[Roadblock]

Make your own B to the same concentration. Theirs costs a lot more, and to get it you have to buy more A. In time you would have a lot of extra A sat about.

The B bottle probably tells you how much is in it. Run it by us if you want a math check.

You could obviously mix your own B however you liked, within reason. Mixing it like theirs make life easy while experimenting though. Like 10% more is so each if it's the same strength. No intermediary maths

Its a homemade formula I use very cheap to make its grown some nice plants in Veg, its high Nitrogen but seems to cover everything, I just want to try and dial it in better as far as the Cal/Mag goes.

Part A
600 grams of Searles Flourish soluble fertilizer.
NPK: 16N – 4P – 25.7K + Trace Elements
Searles Flourish contains Chelated Iron, Copper, Zinc, and Manganese. Chelated micronutrients are fast-acting and rapidly absorbed through both leaves and roots.

300 grams Epsom Salt
400 grams MKP
Mixed in 4.5 ltr of water.

Part B
1000 gram CalNitrate.
Mixed in 4.5 ltr water.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Calcium is great in veg and stretch for me... but when the leaf thickness begins to increase and get that 'puffy' look, I know I am using too much calcium and the quality is lower than I would like. A leaf with larger sized cells adds more 'burnt plant' taste each hit, and I prefer the last hit to be nearly as tasty as the first.

 

[Randy Lahey]

based on me using Coco frequent irrigation in Airpots.

If your nutrient is A+B and B is 100% Calcium Nitrate, would I even need extra Calcium, also in the B part is quite a bit of Epsom Salts in the formula, Im just starting this run and trying to prepare if Im going to need added Cal-Mag or I can achieve the same by adding a little more CalNitrate and Epsom salts, into the tank of 50/50 AB nutrient mix.

Mate... Not being rude... But please hear me...

Do you know why all of that sounds overly complicated? Because it is...

If you wanna do a successful hydro grow with Cannabis with little to no headache try this:

1 24"W x 18"L x 8" deep black storge tub
Air pump, Air hose, T-valve and Two 20" Aquarium Air Stones
1 50L bag of clay pellets
1 Container of Miracle Gro® All Purpose Plant Food ( I know don't freak out.... trust me here)
3 Gallon Containers
Have your klones rooted and ready in Root Riot® Hydroponic Rooting pods that you had inside of a greenhouse for klones to root in. Make sure to taper the air back into the cuttings once rooted before fully removing the greenhouse dome.

Setup your Air stones and Air Lines inside of the storage tub in two rows along the 24"W of the inside of the container.

Fill the container with the entire 50L Bag of PREWASHED Clay Pellets without allowing either of your air stones to move from where you need them.

Connect both Air lines to your T-Valve and the T-Valve to the air pump...

Fill Container 50-60% of the clay pellets depth.... with REGULAR.......UNFERTILIZED....... WATER....

Let sit for 30-45 mins to let water soak the air stone for max air dispersion....

Plug in Air Pump...... (set to 60-75% Flow Rate if you have a "Air Flow Control Knob" on your pump)

Add 6 Klones...... 3 per row......
Behold........... It is done.....

When the water level gets low.... add more regular water....
Continue with regular water until you start to see the plants becoming more lite green...

Pay attention to this part

Your 3 gallon containers for the project....

On the top of 1 write something like, "Hydro Mix" or some shit...
The other 2, you will continue to fill with ONLY REGULAR ASS WATER... lol

Get your Miracle Gro® All Purpose Plant Food out...
The scoop they give you has 2 sides.... Big and Small....
You will ONLY be using 1 of the SMALL side of this scoop in your "Hydro Mix" container.

Add 1 small side scoop of the plant food into your hydro mix jug filled with 25% water already.

Shake until dissolved..... Fill container fully then with REGULAR WATER....

Add the entire contents of your "Hydro Mix" to your plants..... and top off with more regular water.......


Never Feed your plants another "Hydro Mix" container unless they start to look the same lite green you saw before....

And most importantly.... Keep using....................Regular Water.


Private Underground Breeder,
Randy Lahey

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Very similar to the KISS method with GH Maxibloom. Less than $20 a kilo and better results than MG with the same method. It is definitely overfeeding which kills most quality. I absolutely LOVE having the same flavors down to the last hit in the bowl. The more overfed, the more gross tasting, hotter burning effect as you get down to the last toke.

Loooove licking my lips 45 min later and tasting that last tasty bowl or doobie. Something difficult to get with overfed.

 

[f-e]

Very similar to the KISS method with GH Maxibloom. Less than $20 a kilo and better results than MG with the same method. It is definitely overfeeding which kills most quality. I absolutely LOVE having the same flavors down to the last hit in the bowl. The more overfed, the more gross tasting, hotter burning efrect as you get down to the last toke.

Loooove licking my lips 45 min later and tasting that last tasty bowl or doobie. Something difficult to get with overfed.

You eat just about anything Doug? Hot peppers, ginger, liquorice. The usual extreme stuff.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

You eat just about anything Doug? Hot peppers, ginger, liquorice. The usual extreme stuff.

No, what I eat has nothing to do with lingering terpene flavors from my cannabis. I eat super healthy with mainly herbs for flavor, no highly refined, artificial or other non-food ingredients. I enjoy very spicy foods, yet do not eat them regularly.

 

[f-e]

Every time the weather raises my room a few degree's, my buds loose some smell. It oozes out through the 150mm of carbon bed. Not the usual 50mm, 60mm, 100mm. I have 150mm of carbon, but the smell still gets through when it's peaking. Just a few degree's and what was happy on my buds before, is leaving.

When applied to a bowl or spliff, how does the last bit smoked, not loose anything to the hot dry air that's been passing through it. I just don't get how you are not getting any degradation, though you clearly place the reason on feed levels.
I have grown in plenty of fields using nothing but a handful of compost to get them started. I think I have exhausted the low feed possibilities.

I'm just looking for the most likely reason you feel your bud is so much better than anything I have ever imagined possible. How these volatile organic chemicals that you need a cold grow to accumulate, are making it to the end of the bowl.

25% of people will agree with you, that a spliff doesn't change it's taste as you smoke it.
25% of people like to light a joint, then pass it as the best bit has gone.
50% of people... I don't know about.

I empty my pipe after a couple of hits, which leads to people scrambling for it and complaining. There might be 4 or 5 left, but I don't want them. So, when you speak of something tasty to the end, I have to know more

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I have posted for 10+ years now on how I grow, and the majority already seem to know how and ignore it.

My grows are cool and dry, never above 69F if I can help it, 15 to 20% incoming RH, low feed, lately also low phosphorous, and in 3x air exchange per minute of high micron filtered air. The terpene production and retention is ridiculous.

25% of the population have very low ability for smell and taste. 50% are average, and 25% are much more sensitive. My grows are tailored to my ability to taste and smell, which is more sensitive than 90% of the population. I dislike burnt plant flavor so I grow to eliminate it as much as possible. The end result is stunning.

The other most important issue is how ANY overfeeding in flower impacts end quality. Cannabis is an accumulator, which means it has the ability to fix unused atoms and molecules directly to new tissue cell walls. Any 'fixed' items are locked out from plant use and will not leach or flush out. It is there till harvest and beyond.

I make sure all my screwups with nutes are underfeeding mistakes.

 

[ButterflyEffect]

So, I know it's dependent on a number of factors, but in the name of not overfeeding, what EC do you folks recommend for veg and flower? I'm not in soil(mostly perlite) and I feed multiple times a day and I know that'll change the answer. Hell, I know that my ppfd and VPD also affect it, but I'd like to get into a better ballpark, if I'm not already.

I'm feeding around 2EC from mid veg through week 6 of flower currently and my temps are around 80F and the VPD is typically pretty low until week 6.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I let the plant show me what it wants. Start with 'too little' nutes and work up to 'just enough.' As transpiration increases you need to decrease ec to prevent over feeding. You want to feed the minimum possible for healthy and vigorous growth.

Most are unaware cannabis binds excess elements and molecules to new growth. Binds... as in no longer mobile in any way, regardless of it normally being considered 'mobile' or not. This is a known trait of accumulator plants, of which cannabis is a very strong representative. Heavy metals, petroleum byproducts and so on...

 

[f-e]

Ideally, run the strain a few times to learn it. Someone shared a link on K recently: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2019.01369/full
In that first 30 day study, the royal medic, liked K at the 180ppm many foods supply. At the time, the drama queen (or something like that) was just warming up. At 240ppm the medic was choking it seemed, but the queen was packing it on. That's a third more K. I sight this example, as it shows how difficult it is to formulate a 'one feed suits all' approach.

I tend to work the feed I buy, and audition plants based on how well they do with it. All my recent feed choices followed a similar ratio. About 100N 35P 180K. That is enough to hit the breeders yield expectations, give or take. With modification for substrate and lighting types

 

[ButterflyEffect]

I let the plant show me what it wants. Start with 'too little' nutes and work up to 'just enough.' As transpiration increases you need to decrease ec to prevent over feeding. You want to feed the minimum possible for healthy and vigorous growth.

Most are unaware cannabis binds excess elements and molecules to new growth. Binds... as in no longer mobile in any way, regardless of it normally being considered 'mobile' or not. This is a known trait of accumulator plants, of which cannabis is a very strong representative. Heavy metals, petroleum byproducts and so on...

The more dialed in I get my VPD, the better the plants have responded to the 1.8-2EC they're getting fed. My runoff is usually very close to my input. The pH is almost always at 7. The hempy braintrust has maintained that runoff pH doesn't matter with these setups and 4 years in, I have to concur.

My issue is that I still get random 'problems' in veg that resonate through till the end of the run. I change nothing and the room enviro is stable. It almost always starts like a Mg, IV chlorosis on older leaves. Then I foliar with epsom and it starts to help but then things get...weird is the best way to describe it. Unpredictable.

Maybe it's my rainwater changing with the season, EC goes up in the spring for a time. I don't know for sure but I need to get this all under control because I'm trying to get to a point where I am giving the lowest level of input possible.

 

[ButterflyEffect]

Ideally, run the strain a few times to learn it. Someone shared a link on K recently: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2019.01369/full
In that first 30 day study, the royal medic, liked K at the 180ppm many foods supply. At the time, the drama queen (or something like that) was just warming up. At 240ppm the medic was choking it seemed, but the queen was packing it on. That's a third more K. I sight this example, as it shows how difficult it is to formulate a 'one feed suits all' approach.

I tend to work the feed I buy, and audition plants based on how well they do with it. All my recent feed choices followed a similar ratio. About 100N 35P 180K. That is enough to hit the breeders yield expectations, give or take. With modification for substrate and lighting types

I wonder if I could find a place locally that will test my leaves. This way it would make the picture much clearer.

I also adapt the strains I run to not only the feed, but the fact that I'm vertical. Some strains push the boundaries of indoor growing(outside of a bona fide facility). In vert they make headaches.

 

[f-e]

Tissue sampling involved a good handful of leaves. There is no decent procedure for smaller samples, like a dozen. This led me to water sampling. What was fed, verse what was taken. Some lab studies have done the same. Plotting what feed they took, without destroying them. It's also a bit more holistic, as plucking leaves isn't plucking bud, twig or root. All of which we feed for. Though studying tissue samples from the different parts of the plants has great merit. You can watch migration, and morphology changes. That's really at the edge of what I want to know though, at the moment. More like bedtime reading, than my growing focus.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Any time I've had weird mag yellowing which mag sulfate did not fix, I've found root aphids or the like messing with the roots and affecting nutrient uptake. Usually the worst around 3 weeks in to flower...

Edit: EC usually goes down as rain and runoff increases. Generally highest during winter months in most places.

 

[f-e]

I certainly have my share of root issues with my small pots grow. It's starting to look like excessive dry out at the pots bottom, where the compact nature of the root system there, stops moisture soaking in from elsewhere fast enough. I gave the pot bottom a little res, and results are promising. Though I never used to have to... I think my growing has come along and forced the issue. Since the LED switch sent me back to school.

Many of my issues could be blamed on small pots. I'm very demanding of them.

 

[Three Berries]

I used smaller pots in the past when it was one pot and done grow, 2 gallon. But they would need two waterings a day when they got into flower and summer time. I too would let them soak up the run off. But this really aggravates low pH issues. This caused me to go to rainwater and then opened the door to my calcium deficiency issues it turns out.

Went to bigger pots but then you don't get so much runoff as more media=more water holding=less watering frequency. It gets hard to stay on top of the soil pH. And watering with a mid 6.x will not fix the issue unless you really create a lot of runoff.

So I added perlite to my Happy Frog. Too much it seems at a 20% mix over what's already in it. When I water now a lot just runs on through. I have deeper/wider trays and a 1" spacer ring under the pot. I think I'll leave the perlite out of the soil used in the last repot.

As it is now though there is not much worry about over watering.

Just flushed the flower girls again yesterday as the nute burn was still coming on. Now I can see other trace mineral deficiencies showing up. But did get the run off up to 6.5 pH. Time for nutes again but with a 7.0 pH at least.